TableSaw CrossCut Sled Design

[Jim Summers]

Hello All,

I decided to build a new crosscut sled. For my base I have a 24x36 inch piece of ply. This is going to be a double runner sled so the back and front fence are going to provide the strength between the two halves.

I have looked at several threads here and on the net but I am not finding the recommended fence height. My fence thickness is going to be right about 1.25". With my blade at full height, it looks like 3 - 3.25" would work? The fence material is eastern red cedar. Maybe the front fence 4" and 3" on the back with the extra safety pieces for re-inforcement.

The next question is, the 24" width of the base, I am guessing an actual working width of about 21", will handle probably 90% of the use. But when I need to cut larger panels is their a way to scab a piece to the front and then remove the front fence temporarily? I would not remove the sled from the tablesaw until the original front fence was back in place.

TIA

[glenn bradley]

My most general purpose sled is 36" wide, 24" deep, 3/4" BB ply. Front fence (away from me) is about 1-1/2" x 3" x 20", rear fence (where you stand) is about 2-1/2" x 4" x 36". The important things for me i a sled to keep it from becoming a throw away are:

Adjustable fence
Replaceable inserts for the rear fence and bed

Other than that you can trick one out any way you please. I have a large fence for pieces up to about 40" between the fences. Removing the front fence and using the sled is a bad idea IMHO; make a special one for large sheets or use a one sided sled (http://www.woodsmithshop.com/download/103/103-tablesaw-sled.pdf)for those(?).

[Jim Summers]

My most general purpose sled is 36" wide, 24" deep, 3/4" BB ply. Front fence (away from me) is about 1-1/2" x 3" x 20", rear fence (where you stand) is about 2-1/2" x 4" x 36". The important things for me i a sled to keep it from becoming a throw away are:

Adjustable fence
Replaceable inserts for the rear fence and bed

Excellent. I may try and find some pieces and laminate to make both at least 1-1/2" and then on the rear fence, it will be a lot thicker in the operator area. What are replaceable inserts for the fence?






I have a large fence for pieces up to about 40" between the fences. Removing the front fence and using the sled is a bad idea IMHO; make a special one for large sheets or use a one sided sled (http://www.woodsmithshop.com/download/103/103-tablesaw-sled.pdf)for those(?).

I definitely would not use the sled without a front fence in place. I was thinking of using my dowelmax to make a series of holes in the sled base and then in the extension base piece. It would also have a front fence. When I need the extra capacity then put the extension on and tie it the main base with the dowels and then on each side a bracket with screws to hold it tight.

Storage of a monster sled and cost are my restricting parameters.

What do you think?

[glenn bradley]

Jim, quick correction . . . main 'user' sled's fence is 2" x 3-1/2" x 36". Sorry about that. The thickness is to allow for the adjuster bolts and the recess for the ZCI. My thinking is that it would also allow me to pull the fence and run it across the jointer in the event that it ever twisted ;-) I just went out and snapped some pics. You can see that this is my main user.

I have ZCI's for dados, angles, and different 90* blades. I mark them and keep them near the sled. They eventually die but I get a few different uses out of each of them. As the ones for single blades get worn they can be moved to dado duty where a new and wider slot is cut. Same goes for the fence insert.

This one has UHMW runners but I have sleds with used commercial ones and QSWO ones. All work with equal success. The black on the UHMW is felt pen that I used to find rubbing areas and then used a cabinet scraper to tune the fit. You can also see where I nearly cut out the back of the "dummy block" that protects my digits from the blade. The slot is wide due to the dado use. The ZCI's fill this in when using a single blade. The inserts are held in with short #6 wood screws. I assumed I would replace these with inserts when they failed but, hundreds of insert changes later, they're still fine (???).


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P.s. I just threw is on the saw for the pics. I usually remove the tablesaw's ZCI/splitter to improve dust collection.

[Bob Turkovich]

Jim,

I dadoed (sp?) a T-track into the sled about 4" left of the blade. I use it to clamp down small pieces (e.g., when taking 1/16" off of a 3 x 2" piece - keeps your fingers away from the blade.

Glenn,

Nice design! Never thought of putting a ZCI in my sled (or removing the table saw ZCI when using the sled). That sure increases the function and versatility of the sled. (Brilliant!:D) I'm not sure what your adjustable fence feature is for, though. Is it just to fine-tune the perpendicularity of the fence to the blade? BTW - that is one beefy dummy block!

[Norman Hitt]

I came up with a method for a "safety stop' to keep from accidentally pushing the sled too far and letting the blade cut through the safety block on the fence (nearest you). You can do it one of two ways "IF" your outfeed table is physically fastened to the saw. If you haven't already cut slots for the sled runner/runners, place the sled in position so the blade is just at full height into the sled's fence nearest you and make a mark on the outfeed table at the end of each runner. When you cut the slots, stop at these marks. After the slots are cut, drill a hole through the slot to allow any sawdust from holding the sled runner away from the end of the slot.

If you already have longer slots in the outfeed table, just position the sled as above and mark the ends of the runners. Drill a hole in one or both slots that you can put a dowel pin into that will stop the runner at the mark. Make a pin/pins and then drill a hole in the top of the front (away from you) fence to keep the pin/pins in when the sled is not in use. (Paint the pin RED so it is easy to keep up with AND not forget to use);)

[glenn bradley]

I'm not sure what your adjustable fence feature is for, though. Is it just to fine-tune the perpendicularity of the fence to the blade?

Correct. The sleds stay pretty reliable. Two or three times over the last several years I have noticed something off on one sled or another. A quick 5-cut test and a very small adjustment of the fence and its good for another few years :D:D:D Just a tiny bit of adjustment makes a big change in relation to square.

[Carroll Courtney]

Reading material,just some ideals.http://benchmark.20m.com/articles/CrosscutSleds/CrosscutSledArticle.pdf
And here's a Youtube http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GZuyC7udVjs ----Carroll

[Jim Summers]

Reading material,just some ideals.http://benchmark.20m.com/articles/CrosscutSleds/CrosscutSledArticle.pdf
And here's a Youtube http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GZuyC7udVjs ----Carroll

Good stuff there.

Many thanks

[Jim Summers]

Jim, quick correction . . . main 'user' sled's fence is 2" x 3-1/2" x 36". Sorry about that. The thickness is to allow for the adjuster bolts and the recess for the ZCI. My thinking is that it would also allow me to pull the fence and run it across the jointer in the event that it ever twisted ;-) I just went out and snapped some pics. You can see that this is my main user.

I have ZCI's for dados, angles, and different 90* blades. I mark them and keep them near the sled. They eventually die but I get a few different uses out of each of them. As the ones for single blades get worn they can be moved to dado duty where a new and wider slot is cut. Same goes for the fence insert.

This one has UHMW runners but I have sleds with used commercial ones and QSWO ones. All work with equal success. The black on the UHMW is felt pen that I used to find rubbing areas and then used a cabinet scraper to tune the fit. You can also see where I nearly cut out the back of the "dummy block" that protects my digits from the blade. The slot is wide due to the dado use. The ZCI's fill this in when using a single blade. The inserts are held in with short #6 wood screws. I assumed I would replace these with inserts when they failed but, hundreds of insert changes later, they're still fine (???).


P.s. I just threw is on the saw for the pics. I usually remove the tablesaw's ZCI/splitter to improve dust collection.

Wow. That is a really cool sled. I may borrow your idea of using t-bolts for the fence attachment.

Thanks

[Jim Summers]

Glenn,

What kind of wood is the rear fence made of?

Thanks Again

[Cody Colston]

I think my sled is somewhere around 24" deep x 36" wide. It's square and functional but nothing special about it. One day, I will build one with the features like Glenn's. I've seen some sleds that are literal works of art and too pretty for me to use. I won't go that far but I would like to build my ultimate sled someday.

For cutting really wide panels, I'd recommend a one-track panel cutter which has a square fence at the front even with the blade and none at the back, ala Norm Abram's design. That's the easiest, most stable method I've found for cutting panels that won't fit in my sled.

[Jim Summers]

I think my sled is somewhere around 24" deep x 36" wide. It's square and functional but nothing special about it. One day, I will build one with the features like Glenn's. I've seen some sleds that are literal works of art and too pretty for me to use. I won't go that far but I would like to build my ultimate sled someday.

For cutting really wide panels, I'd recommend a one-track panel cutter which has a square fence at the front even with the blade and none at the back, ala Norm Abram's design. That's the easiest, most stable method I've found for cutting panels that won't fit in my sled.

The current sled I have is a small one track. It was the first one I ever made and has some racking issues. So that is why I am going with the two track and to also catch the cutoff piece.

Since I am using some aluminum miter bars with threaded bolt holes, it will be pretty easy to pull one off and use it for a wide panel sled as needed. Also I can adjust the miter bars so there is no slop, so that may help with some of the potential racking.

For some reason I still think the idea of adding an extension to widen the base would work also. But since I am not getting any positive response maybe it won't.

Thanks

[Rick Lizek]

http://www.finewoodworking.com/item/5880/a-tale-of-two-tablesaw-sleds
Another sled design...works well!

[Jim Summers]

http://www.finewoodworking.com/item/5880/a-tale-of-two-tablesaw-sleds
Another sled design...works well!

All I can say about that is, "dang".

I am going more for one that will have a stationary fence and some t-slots in the base for some hold downs. Sure would like to make it so I could "transmogrify" it into a monster sled when needed.

Thanks

[Dave Wagner]

I know this is an older thread, but I finally got around to building my sled which is about 24" x 32" for my vintage Craftsman table saw (model 113.XXXXX), nothing fancy, but works good. I just finished up some shelving units and it cut the shelves perfectly. Also made a spline jig/tenon cutter jig for it that mounts to the rip fence.

[Bill Huber]

Looks like it should work just fine, I like to keep them plan and simple.

I did notice the webbed extensions, I had some like that for awhile and pinched my fingers on them more then once. a Creeker showed me how to fix them and it was great.
I just used some silicon to hold them on and it worked very well, no more pinched fingers and I didn't drip my tape though them any more.

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[Dave Wagner]

Thanks Bill! Never had a problem, YET. Another great idea!
With the sled, at least it keeps my fingers away from the webbing.
Since space is tight where I put my saw, I put a couple eyehooks on the side of the sled and it hangs off the side of the saw out of the way, but easily retrievable.

[Floyd Mah]

Here's a way to help keep you from cutting off your digits, even if you should accidentally push through the safety block. I embedded a couple of 1/4"x20 threaded inserts into the top edge of the rear fence and screwed in two large black plastic knobs as holders when operating the fence. This encourages you to place your hand on the knobs when using it. The knobs can be removed if you need to hold the wood down with your hands. You can also place inserts in the bed of the sled to use with hold-downs when working with small pieces of wood. I also use these inserts to place angled pieces of wood for mitered cuts. I lowered part of the rear fence so that I could use lever-operated clamps to pinch the wood against the bed so that I could work rapidly without getting my fingers near the blade's path. Consider making the parts of the fence away from the actual cutting area slightly lower so that you can fit a clamp over the top of the fence to secure stops for repeated cuts.

Another consideration is to relieve the very bottom of the rear fence so that small bits of sawdust won't push your work out from the fence.

[Dave Wagner]

Yes, on the left side of the sled, I have a 1/4-20 bolt that hangs down along the side leaf, stops against another one sticking out of the side. So, the sled stops just before the blade comes thru the extra blocks. This is my first attempt at one, I may update in the future with a T-rail and hold downs, etc.... The side stop looks like this Except I put my bolt in the front of the fence so the blade doesn't come thru the end.

http://hostedmedia.reimanpub.com/TFH/Step-By-Step/display/FH00DJA_TABLSA_13.JPG