Woodwork/brad nailer?

[Greg Urwiller]

Going to be putting in 9 new interior doors. Going with "Mission" style and have new door casings that are 3/4" thick oak. I have a CH 16ga brad nailer which will shoot up to 2" long brads. Is this enough gun/nail for casing this thick? If not, what should I use? Thanks. Greg

[Tad Capar]

I'm not sure which nails/brads you're using. The brad nailer that I'm using is 18ga and is good to nail casing to the door jam (1 1/4 - 1 1/2 brads). To nail casings to the studs ( through drywall) I use 15ga finishing nailer (2 - 2 1/2 nails). This would be my recommendation especially if your casings are made of oak.

[Greg Urwiller]

Well, it's a 16ga nailer that will shoot 2" brads, so...that's what I was going to use. Is a 16ga brad big enough to nail the outer edge of the casing through sheetrock into the stud? On the other hand, is a 2" too big for the door jamb? I wanted to be able to use an air nailer rather than having to use a hammer part of the time. Since this is mission style casing, it's 3/4" by 3 1/2" all around. Greg

[Von Bickley]

I'm not sure which nails/brads you're using. The brad nailer that I'm using is 18ga and is good to nail casing to the door jam (1 1/4 - 1 1/2 brads). To nail casings to the studs ( through drywall) I use 15ga finishing nailer (2 - 2 1/2 nails). This would be my recommendation especially if your casings are made of oak.

I agree with Tad.......

[Myk Rian]

Try the 16ga. If it doesn't work out for you, go with something else.

[Chip Lindley]

3/4" casing + 1/2" drywall = 1-1/4". That leaves 3/4" of your 2" 18ga nail to penetrate the stud. That's not alot. But if you insist, Go for it! IMO, 2-1/2" would be better!

I added a 16ga finish nailer to suppliment my 18ga brad nailer for this very reason. 2" brads just do not have the holding power in window/door casments and baseboard mouldings that 2-1/2" does.

[Steve Griffin]

That would be enough for me. As long as your hinges have long screws which penetrate framing, you will be fine.

Because oak is "strong" there is a common of fear it will muscle itself off the wall and you will find the trim on the floor someday. In reality this has never happened, and it takes very little attachment force to keep it in place. The key is the door, which receives the day to day use and would love to lever it's hinges loose if given the chance. Thats why I focus on anchoring the door. Everything else is fluffy cosmetic woodwork.


-Steve

[Greg Urwiller]

I didn't know if a 2" 16ga nail was enough to hold a full 3/4" casing decently. If if wouldn't, ok then, what should I use? I've got an older nailer and would just like to just plug in the pancake and go to nailing. Much easier than hammering and filling nail holes if I didn't have to. I wouldn't worry if it was a standard door casing, but since it's a full 3/4" thick, didn't know if it would work. Nice thing about this woodwork is that there are no 45's to cut and fit, it's all just butt type joints. I'll give it a try and see what happens. Thanks. Greg