Tormek vs Worksharp

[Sean Rainaldi]

Hi,

I am in need of a tool sharpener and was wondering if the work sharp will do about everything that the T-7 Tormek will do?

I like the Tormek but the price is a bit too high for my budget.

Also are there any other brands that are comprable?

I need to sharpen the entire gamut, i.e. hand plane blades, and hand tools such as gouges, chisels, large and small, some of my gouges and chisels and knive hand carving blades are 1mm and I even have a half mm wide gouge.

Thanks for any advice...

[David Weaver]

I would say the worksharp wouldn't be quite as nice for chisels because no hollow grind. I wouldn't want to give up the hollow grind even though you don't "need" it.

I think for what you mentioned, I'd rather have a cheap belt sander, a cheap dry grinder and a couple of oil stones.

I don't have the WS, but I have a belt sharpener, a cheap belt sander set up to grind, a tormek and a dry grinder. I could get by with any one of them, but it's nice to have all of them.

[Ellen Benkin]

I am both cheap and lazy and I love the WorkSharp system for my chisels. I think the Tormek is expensive and messy, but it will sharpen more of your tools than the WorkSharp. The WorkSharp is designed to sharpen straight edges and would not be useful for curved edges such as those on turning chisels.

[glenn bradley]

Apples and oranges. The Worksharp 3K is quite quick and reasonably foolproof. It has a 2" width limit in the pre-set angled port but wider blades can be accommodated at the top surface with add-ons. The 5* increments in the port do not allow micro-bevels in the way that I think of them. I love mine, keep it right on the bench for quick touch-ups when doing chisel intensive work and would not be without it.

The Tormek is a slow speed wet sharpener that does a great job, has many accessories and is reasonably foolproof. It is not designed to remove lots of material quickly such as removing nicks. The slow speed wet grinder format can treat a wider array of tools types with additional jigs. Dad has the Jet clone and thinks its great (so do I) but, he has Worksharp 3K as well.

The value of either or both will depend on what types of tools you use and how you use them, of course.

[Kent Chasson]

I have a Tormek and a Makita sharpener (which operates in the same fashion as the worksharp). I rarely use the leather wheel on the Tormek anymore. It gives you a razor edge but not a long-lasting one. I bought a 6000 grit water stone for it from Japan Woodworker and I just use that unless I have some serious grinding to do. The 6000 grit gives you a good edge but I usually hone further on a glass plate down to .3 micron film.

The jigs that go with the Tormek are nice for gouges and other things that can be hard to sharpen. Not sure what's available for the worksharp.

I used my Makita to touch up jointer and planer knives. Not sure I'd want to do that on a Tormek.

I got a great deal on the Tormek off craigslist. If I were to do it again, I'd at least think about the Grizzly knock-off with the addition of the 6000 water stone.

[glenn bradley]

The WorkSharp is designed to sharpen straight edges and would not be useful for curved edges such as those on turning chisels.

Hmmm.

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[Sean Rainaldi]

Thanks.

I watched the worksharp vid on their web site, one problem I have, I have some very small japanese knives - extremely high quality steel for my relief carving, but the blades measure 3/64" square and about 2.5 inches long and the bevel is less than 20 degrees. Also some tiny gouges around that size as well..plus skew blades...

Are there any jigs/systems that can hold these blades?

I have a hand jig for wet stone would like a machine type jig/system too...

I noticed that the work sharp jig only goes down to 1/8" wide blades...

[Philip Rodriquez]

I do not have the worksharp... but I can say that the Tormek can sharpen everything from chisels, turning tools, carving tools, to... But it takes a few minutes to set up and i'll usually go to something else for my chisels and handplanes.

For turning and carvng tools, the thing is amazing and very easy to use.

[Jim Laumann]

Glenn

Could you provide more information about the jig in your post? Did you make it? Can you provide dimensions, etc?

I've been saving my pennies for a Tormek & the lathe tool jigs - but your jig makes me rethink that idea.

Many thanks

Jim

[Gene Waara]

As always, it depends on your needs and budget. That said, I stole a Tormak off of CL a few months ago and love it! I hated hand sharpening as I did a crappy job and never really had the patience or necessary skill to do it right. I even debated the Tormek with myself and wrote a thread looking for advice. Once you have used it a few times, the tormek is relatively foolproof and does an amazing job. I got extra credit from LOML when I sharpened the dozens of knives that had accumulated in her kitchen. She's an incredible cook and was always looking for the next great knife. No more. My new knife cost avoidance will probably pay for the Tormek alone!:cool:

[ian maybury]

I ended up with both a little by accident, but don't have much experience with them yet. Here's a few thoughts about the two approaches though:

1. Hollow grinding is regarded as weakening the edge on Japanese chisels - the Work Sharp produces a flat bevel.

2. The bolt-on surface plate accessory for the WorkSharp makes using the top surface of the disc possible, and opens up all sort of possibilities using normal honing guides to control the blade angle

3. The Tormek (to me) feels like a more robust bit of kit that will probably be around rather longer than a WS.

4. There's a bit of skill involved in grinding especially a longer straight edge on a Tormek - plus the guides etc need to be square. On the other hand the WS seems more limited in this regard.

5. Back flattening may be easier on one rather than the other - you can do it on the Tormek off the side, but on the other hand I'm not sure how you might dress it back to a flat surface after it wears a bit.

6. As above the WS is very easy and quick to use for chisels that fit in the guides under the disc.

7. The Tormek is inclined to be quite messy what with water going all over the place.

8. The ability to change grades of abrasive on the WS adds flexibility/choice.

I guess the real trick for me might be a WS with the Tormek's build quality - an industrial version. Maybe a version with a larger sharpening surface too. Crank driven or other (with a long and variable stroke) reciprocating rectangular platen anybody? You could even set up your waterstones on one like that - no need to move the blade while it's sharpening....

ian

[John Pratt]

I got the Worksharp a little over a year ago and used it in conjunction with the glass plate method. It worked well, but once I got bitten by the turning bug, I wanted to get something for my turning tools. I got the Tormek complete kit with all the jigs and haven't pulled my WS off the shelf since. Once you have figured out the jigs and practiced a little, the ability to sharpen tools seems limitless. I still go to my glass plates once in a while, but the Tormek does everthing I need it to do. It really comes down to what you are willing to spend. You can do more with the Tormek, but you pay for it.

[Bill Huber]

I am not a turner but do have a question. On the WorkSharp I thought you could sharpen the lath tools using the see though disk from the under side. Is this not correct or does it just not do a very good job at it.

[John Coloccia]

I am not a turner but do have a question. On the WorkSharp I thought you could sharpen the lath tools using the see though disk from the under side. Is this not correct or does it just not do a very good job at it.

You're sharpening it freehand under the wheel. The sharpening is as good as you are :) Personally, I wouldn't buy a WS to sharpen my gouges, though if that's ALL I had, I'm sure I could make it work somehow.

I love my Tormek for turning tools and gouges, but a grinder with a jig works well too, at a fraction of the price. This is definitely not an either or decision. It's difficult to have too much sharpening equipment.

[Andrew Pitonyak]

I needed to recondition a few items (plane blades and chisels) and it was taking forever, so I purchased a Worksharp. I was able to achieve some decent edges on some plane blades and chisels.

I had trouble obtaining a square edge on the plane blades, so I picked-up a Tormek.

As a rank amateur in this sort of thing, I obtained better results with the Tormek than I did with the Worksharp. The worksharp went to a close family friend and I continue to use the Tormek.

[Carl Babel]

Very nice! I don't do much turning, but I will keep this in mind for when I do.

[Carl Babel]

Ian, the following could be considered "industrial" versions of the WS:
- Lap-Sharp LS-200
- Lap-Sharp LS-600 VS
- Veritas mk.ii Power Sharpening System

[Paul Johnstone]

I have not used the worksharp, but I used just about everything else before the Tormek.
The Tormek is pricey, but totally idiot proof. I consider it to be reasonably fast too (definitely faster than stones).
It's a godsend for lathe tools and kitchen knives.. I was never able to sharpen them as well before.

From my understandign, the worksharp is limited for sharpening things like gouges (A grinder with a jig seems like a better approach).

I wish I could get back all the money I spent on sharpening gadgets prior to the Tormek.

That said, there's certainly less expensive ways to get a good edge.. You don't need one (just don't tell the wife that).

[John Coloccia]

Ian, the following could be considered "industrial" versions of the WS:
- Lap-Sharp LS-200
- Lap-Sharp LS-600 VS
- Veritas mk.ii Power Sharpening System

Oh great...now I need one of these too.

[Julian Tracy]

I have the Tormek, and it's nice to finally have sharp tools! Never really figured it out by hand before and now I don't have to. I even sharpened my 10" planer blades with it and they turned out sharper than they came stock. ( I have the planer blade attach)

I recently made a 2nd tube support for it to permanently park in the front for the leather wheel. Saves a ton of time vs. taking the support arm off each time you do a chisel or other blade. (bought a 12mmx36" drill rod for $10 from Production tool Supply)

JT

[ian maybury]

Thank you very much Carl - I'm not sure how I missed the existence of those tools. It's a case now I guess of seeing how I get with the WS and Tormek I have...

ian

[glenn bradley]

Could you provide more information about the jig in your post?

P.M. sent with some info.

[James White]

JT,

Could you post a photo of this modification? I have a Grizzly clone with the jointer/planer blade attachment and would like to try something like this.


I have the Tormek, and it's nice to finally have sharp tools! Never really figured it out by hand before and now I don't have to. I even sharpened my 10" planer blades with it and they turned out sharper than they came stock. ( I have the planer blade attach)

I recently made a 2nd tube support for it to permanently park in the front for the leather wheel. Saves a ton of time vs. taking the support arm off each time you do a chisel or other blade. (bought a 12mmx36" drill rod for $10 from Production tool Supply)

JT

[Sean Rainaldi]

...

I love my Tormek for turning tools and gouges, but a grinder with a jig works well too, at a fraction of the price. This is definitely not an either or decision. It's difficult to have too much sharpening equipment.

Thanks for all the great ideas folks. John you got me thinking, maybe I should just buy a low speed or variable speed grinder and make my own jigs - i know Harbor Freight sells many low cost grinders - would any of their grinders be reccomended? Or can you or anyone reccomend a low speed or variable speed low cost grinder?

I know they have a table top small grinder, variable speed, I was wondering if I could find a strop for it, the store near my home did not have small diameter strops..

To start - I just need a small table top unit for small hand and relief carving tools so maybe I should dedicate one small grinder for those tools and get the tormek later when I can afford it - for my larger tools and plane blades....

[John Coloccia]

The problem with HF grinders is that they wobble. At least the one I have does. For my purposes, it was fine. I would not want the vibration for sharpening, though. Woodcraft carries a decent low speed grinder. I think they even had a variable speed one.

I really like my Tormek and I wouldn't trade it for a slow speed grinder, HOWEVER if I were looking to sharpen everything I own on a budget, I would do:

1) Slow speed grinder with some sort of jig like the wolverine for turning tools
2) Worksharp 3000 with leather wheel and felt buff. This will do all your chisels and your smaller plane irons.
3) DMT DUO course/fine (blue/red) for flattening stones, flattening chisels and establishing bevels on wider plane irons. The large 10" one.
4) Norton 8000 for honing wider blades (like plane irons) and polishing the back of chisels.
5) Leather strop
6) The small, blue, DMT hone with the blue handle for touching up turning tool edges between sharpenings

Maybe "on a budget" is a relative term, but if you're considering the Tormek, you're already in the $600+ range by the time you're done with turning tool stuff, and maybe more. IMHO, the Tormek by itself will not easily get chisels and plane irons to the level of sharpness I like anyhow, so I don't personally see it as a complete solution anyhow, though some will disagree. In my opinion, the system above is more versatile and will sharpen everything you own as sharp as you need to get it. From there, you can add whatever you like to make it even more versatile. I haven't priced it out, but I think it's probably about the same as one Tormek. Maybe I'm way off base and it's more. I don't know.

Again, this is all just my opinion and is centered around how I work and what works for me. It's a very personal thing, but the above would sharpen everything I own to a level that I think is acceptable. Other people will look at it and think that it's either overkill, or I'm leaving out steps, or it's otherwise nutty. :)

I also just want to say that you can do this for cheaper. I just sorta' took the Tormek base price as a starting point and guesstimated from there what I would do if I had about that much to spend.

[Don Jarvie]

You can sharpen turning tools, gouges, etc on the WS but you need to freehand them. It takes a little practice but it can be done.

I made a shelf that is level with the disc on the WS so I use my honing guide to sharpen chisels, etc. It works very well and its much faster than using the WS in the traditional way

[Jim Laumann]

Don

Could you post a pic?

Jim

[Sean Rainaldi]

Thanks folks,

John or anyone - what would you consider as being low speed? The Tormek and the grizzly are around 100 rpm and from there most low speed grinders are around 1700 rpm....I was told for very narrow gouges and blades, i.e. down to as low as 1mm wide gouges, that I should never go above 100 rpm. Unless using a belt sander.

I was also wondering is there anywhere I could buy jigs for very narrow blades and gouges? A jig that will hold a chisel lor gouge that is down to 1 mm wide?
If I could find some jigs that would hold that small of a tool I could build a table level to thework sharp disk and hold my micro tools on top of the work smart plate at a constant angle...

[John Coloccia]

If you're doing mostly carving tools, you may want to give the Koch system a serious look. If my shop were filled with carving tools as opposed to planes, chisels and turning tools, I would probably have a Koch and a strop. I was thinking of picking up a Koch anyway just to play with it.

The Koch system is a little more freehand, but that's okay. You get good at stuff like that pretty quickly.

[Sean Rainaldi]

It seems intereting but I don't know if that would work for my tiny blades. Some of my blades are only 1 mm wide.

[Sean Rainaldi]

Has anyone used the Tormek Small Tool Jig SVS-32 on the work sharp 3000 with any success?

I was wondering if it would fit onto the support rod above the glass disk on the Work sharp unit...

I guess it would depend on the diameter of both the WS and Tormek unit are they same or similar diameter?

[glenn bradley]

Is this not correct or does it just not do a very good job at it.

That is correct. IMHO it does not do a good job of it. The visibility is not what I expected and is inadequate for me to use for much of anything. That is one of the things that led to my little wooden guide shown above.


Personally, I wouldn't buy a WS to sharpen my gouges, / This is definitely not an either or decision. It's difficult to have too much sharpening equipment.

FWIW, I heartily agree on all points ;-)

[Sean Rainaldi]

Glenn,

Do you also have the Tormek T-7?

If so I was wondering if you could tell me what the diameter of the tool support on the T-7 is...

Do you think the Tormek SVS-32 small tool jig would fit onto the Work Sharp 3000 tool support?

[michael case]

Sean the T7 is overpriced, but it does everything. With the proper attachments you can readily grind 13" planer blades. It also gives you a hollow grind which means you can skip all the different grade or stones nonsense. Once you initially flatten and polish the back of a chisel or planing iron say, all you need to renew and edge it is a few seconds on the tormek and a few hand passes of the new hollow grind on a 6000 waterstone. Its quick and easy with the T7 to perfectly maintain all the edges in your shop. The initial price hurts (I know) but it is is the best there is.

[Dave Stuve]

I just picked up a Tormek T7 and it's pricey, but the thing just exudes quality and it is a pleasure to use (fast and effective.) My tools and kitchen knives have never been sharper. The T7 is going onto my slowly growing list of tools that make me smile when I use them.