Pocket Hole Jigs....Which to Buy?

[Mark Blatter]

I am considering buying a pocket hole jig and would like some advice on which one.

Seems like most talk about the K3, but what about the new Porter Cable 560? Anyone use both and have an opinion? I know opinions are like table saws, virtually everyone has at least one and nobody's is the same.

[glenn bradley]

I don't do pocket holes often and find I use the $20 Kreg mini more often than my larger Kreg jig. It is small and easy to position for a few holes now and then. If I was going to do 20 face frames with a dozen holes each I would go with a bench mounted unit. Sorry, not enough experience to recommedn a K3 or K4 or whatever. I just mention this in case you only do them now and then and don't need to spend that kind of dough.

[Bill Huber]

I think a lot depends on how much you are going to use it. The K3 is a nice jig but the PC is much nicer and cost more. I have the Jr. and it does everything I need, I don't do a lot of pocket holes.

But if you are going to do a bunch from what I have seen the PC is really nice,

[Gene Howe]

Never used the PC. Mine is the K3 and it does the job for me.
Kreg's customer service is unequaled. Something to consider.

[David Larsen]

I have a couple of K3's and like them. I didn't like the K4 when I did the research because it has the lever on the back. I have never used the PC. I have the jr. and haven't used it yet, but think it might be useful in tight spot.

[Derek Gilmer]

I've got the K3 and like it quite a bit. It is simple and does a great job. I haven't used the PC but it looks like it has quite a bit of adjust-ability. Not sure if that is a pro or a con to you. For what I use pocket holes for it would be a con. I want it to be simple, quick and dependable every time I pull it off the shelf. I don't want to worry about dialing it in every time. But most of my pocket holes are for utilitarian furniture and jigs. If I'm making something fancier where I need really dial in the joints I'll use something else besides pocket screws.

[Julian Tracy]

That Porter Cable unit is downright rediculous looking. You can't beat the Kreg and after using one with, I wouldn't buy one that didn't have a dust fitting.

Being able to do a series of pocket holes with no mess is amazing, plus the holes are cleaner and drill faster.

I have two - the original aluminum Kreg - had for 10 years or so and the newer Kreg master pack. They've got it down, good buy.

JT

[Joe Cowan]

I have had a K3 for years. Not sure about the other brand, but this had been the cheapest, best tool I have ever bought. It seems I use mine on almost all projects.

[Jon Grider]

I'm in the middle of a kitchen cabinet job for a flip my brother has going on. I needed a pocket hole jig quickly and the blue store had the K4 kit on the shelf ready to go. I gotta say it's a great device, perfect for my application of attaching cab parts and face frames to cabs. I don't have any experience with the K3, many say it's better than the K4, and it may be. I just know I like the quality and well thought out design of the K4...16 cabinets down and counting.

[Tom Ewell]

K-3 (master) is probably your best bet if you want the clamp handle in front. One can also use this unit off of the bench with a separate clamp. I have this one setup on a piece of plywood with out riggers and am able to clamp the unit to my bench because front handle clamping action can cause the unit to rock. The dust port does not fit my Fein or Festool vacs directly. The port might fit other brands, dunno.

The Jr. set is ok but mostly for off the bench stuff, I keep mine on the truck for the occasional job site need.

Most of my drill kits have a mini Kreg stashed in them.

Gave away my old Kreg aluminum model years ago.

The PCable unit is quicker to set up for multiple thicknesses, one drill bit setting works for all and it also has a dust port when used in it's "up right" standard mode.The port does fit my Fein and is setup to accept other brands. It'll do everything that the K3 master does on the bench but it can be bulky for portable operations. The spacing between hole guides is adjustible. Clamping pad is larger. Drill and driver bits store on the unit, material stop, and dust port are all on board, no case needed to hold parts collection together. Limited to 1-1/2" thickness. It will not work in tight spaces.

Either unit is good for the bench, K3 master is more versatile off the bench.

For the money, I'd probably start with the K3 (or K4) if your just getting into pocket joinery, and most likely you'll stay there unless there is a need for the PCable unit.

[John Nesmith]

I get by with this one. I don't use them often, but the frequency is increasing.

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[John Sanford]

For very occasional use, the Kreg mini or the similar double. For regular use, the Kreg K3. For regular use with a lot of different thicknesses and such, the PC. For production work, you're best off looking at one of the machines, both the Kreg and the PC machines are good.

[Chris Padilla]

I love my K3. I have it bolted to a piece of plywood hanging on the shop wall. They are great for quickie joint connections. I also use the Kreg Screws exclusively. I usually pick up a decent selection now and then when I find them on sale.

[Brian W Evans]

I have the Jr. and the K3. Junior is great for handyman jobs or small projects. If you're doing cabinets or other big projects, the junior can get tedious. I've whipped through a set of cabinets with the K3 in no time and would definitely buy it again. Can't speak to the PC.

I also like the Kreg screws.

[Karl Brogger]

If you can justify/afford it. Castle is the only way to go.

[Chip Lindley]

That Porter Cable unit is downright rediculous looking. You can't beat the Kreg and after using one with, I wouldn't buy one that didn't have a dust fitting.

JT

Julian, not sure which P-C model you are calling rediculous looking. It better not be my P-C 552! I love it for two reasons; I got a great bargain on it, and it cuts the angled slot PLUS a pilot screw hole all in one operation. I find having the screw pilot hole already cut into the end grain helps a lot with final alignment of the two mating FF pieces.

Any manual jig that must be clamped to each and every FF piece is too time-consuming for me. Consider a kitchen-full of FF pieces and This One earns it's keep on the first job--timewise.

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The heavy-duty clamp holds the workpiece firmly. The side fences can be adjusted to cut multiple pocket holes. Two are easy by shifting the workpiece left, then right, under the pressure clamp. The pocketholes are cut as fast as you can pull/push the big knob. The P-C uses a 690 router motor to cut the 3/8" pockethole slot, and a smaller 7301 trimmer motor to drill a 9/64" pilot hole through the end of the workpiece.

The Castle and Kreg commercial machines are great too, but wayy pricy--even used! the P-C 552 fills my bill.

[Derek Gilmer]

Julian, not sure which P-C model you are calling rediculous looking. It better not be my P-C 552! I love it for two reasons; I got a great bargain on it, and it cuts the angled slot PLUS a pilot screw hole all in one operation. I find having the screw pilot hole already cut into the end grain helps a lot with final alignment of the two mating FF pieces.

Any manual jig that must be clamped to each and every FF piece is too time-consuming for me. Consider a kitchen-full of FF pieces and This One earns it's keep on the first job--timewise.

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The heavy-duty clamp holds the workpiece firmly. The side fences can be adjusted to cut multiple pocket holes. Two are easy by shifting the workpiece left, then right, under the pressure clamp. The pocketholes are cut as fast as you can pull/push the big knob. The P-C uses a 690 router motor to cut the 3/8" pockethole slot, and a smaller 7301 trimmer motor to drill a 9/64" pilot hole through the end of the workpiece.

The Castle and Kreg commercial machines are great too, but wayy pricy--even used! the P-C 552 fills my bill.


The pc 560 mentioned above is a smaller jig much like the kreg. I don't think we are discussing the large benchtop models. At least that is what my google searches turned up.

[hank dekeyser]

WOW the PC jig looks like its a PITA to use ?? why so many pieces-n-parts on it ? I have a jig based on the air powered kreg jig - looks like they dont make them anymore? At any rate, about $50 in parts and a couple hour time to machine it and assemble - Ta-Daaaaaa, I have a custom built pocket hole jig w/ an air clamp - I Love it ! I'm always curious why so many guys that should be able to build darn near anything out of wood - don't ??

[John Sanford]

FYI, the new PC jig is not a PITA to use. It's easier to use than the Kreg K3. It's more expensive, and not quite as flexible, but as a benchmount, it's better.

[Tom Ewell]

FYI, the new PC jig is not a PITA to use. ......

I agree, if both jigs are set up for 3/4 stock on the bench both are the "equal" in terms of boring procedure.

I need to cobble together an adaptor to use my Fein vac on the Kreg while the same vac fits right into the PC dust port.

Change the stock thickness.... the Kreg requires you to reset the quide block, reset the drill collar and reset the clamp whereas the PC requires a twist of a knob and you're ready to go at any thickness within spec of the unit.

If one uses the material stop, the Kreg requires mounting the rig to a board and mounting the stop adjacent, the PC is self contained.

A caveat I have for the PC unit is that there are more moving parts involved which, over time, might wear or break, I have no such concern with the Kreg.

Parts and accessories are more readily available for the Kreg at this time (the Borgs)

[David Hostetler]

It's not often that you hear of HF products one upping the competition, but you might want to give a serious look at the HF Pocket Hole Jig... Solid aluminum and steel construction, not plastic like the Kreg. You would have to rig something up if you want to do production stops or something like that, but that is easy enough...

I have the General jig and don't like it much, mostly due to the way it clamps to the workpiece, and no hardened guides... I am seriously considering upgrading to the HF jig...

[Sean Nagle]

I purchased the Kreg Master System to build shop cabinets. I just recently put it to use on a test frame for wall-mounting some storage bins. The Kreg jig is a joy to use and the results were outstanding. It worked just as advertised.

[frank shic]

+1 PC 552. there is absolutely no creepage with minimal clamping unlike the kreg which translates into less sanding. chip which side fences are you talking about? i would love a faster alignment system than just eyeballing it with those notches.

[hank dekeyser]

FYI, the new PC jig is not a PITA to use. It's easier to use than the Kreg K3. It's more expensive, and not quite as flexible, but as a benchmount, it's better.
My bad, I must have seen an older version- I still say the air powered clamping is waaaaaaay nice

[Chip Lindley]

My wayy simple side fences/guides/stops were made Ho-made from pieces of 5/8" MDF clamped to the P-C table. The workpiece is butted to the left or right for two-hole spacing on a 2-1/4" FF rail. For wider workpieces, the side fences can be slid out further.

[frank shic]

that's a great idea. it'll speed it up for face frame members and cabinet cross pieces

[Bruce Wrenn]

In pocket holes the the K's rule. KISS, and Kreg. Enough said?

[David Helm]

There is an excellent review and comparison of the PC and Kreg jigs in the latest issue of fine homebuilding. I have no horse in this race so will not comment on the efficacy of either one.

[Chris Konikowski]

I have the Penn State version of this. It is solid aluminum and seems to work very well. Nice carrying case that holds the jig, clamp, drill bits, square drive bits and lots of screws. I have now built my first two cabinets and used this on both of them. It has worked great and is quick and easy. It has automatic stops for 3/4" think and quite a few other thicknesses to take the guess work out of that.

The square drive bits wore out really quickly. Part of it was me, but I still think it could have been better material. I think I paid like $40 for it one year on black friday or some other awesome sale...

[Troy Turner]

I've got the K4. For what I do as a hobby, the handle in the back isn't a problem. If there's anything bigger, it's removeable. Picked up a couple of locking pliers for $10 and off I went.

It's solid, easy to use, and results are phenominal...all that and more for $100..can't beat it.

[Greg Portland]

FYI, the new PC jig is not a PITA to use. It's easier to use than the Kreg K3. It's more expensive, and not quite as flexible, but as a benchmount, it's better.
I own the K3 and have played around with the PC. I would echo John's sentiments. The big downside with the K3 is that you need to set the drill collar -AND- the hole plate correctly and it varies depending on the widths that you're drilling i.e. what setting do you use for 1/2" ply to 3/4" ply (both of which are not really those measurements). The PC takes all the math and/or setup tweaking out of the equation. HOWEVER, if you are drilling that many holes and doing a lot of constant setup changes (i.e. production work) then a Kreg Foreman or similar hole cutter may be a better option. For the home hobbyist doing a test hole or two is not a big issue.

[Jack Pinkham]

The Harbor Freight jig is very nicely finished . Use it mounted or as a portable. With a 20% off coupon it's an even better bargain.

[keith micinski]

I use the 3/4 setting on Plywood even though its not really 3/4 and have never had a problem. I also think the setup for changing stock widths is of a minimal concern because 90 percent of anything we work with is 3/4 material. I once set it up to do something in half inch but that was years ago.

[keith micinski]

Oh yeah get one with dust collection. That is my only complaint with the whole system. I just checked the Porter cable one out because I haven't even seen it before. At 209 dollars that thing better be a significant improvement over the Kreg. I don't really see how that is possible either because the Kreg isn't that bad. Also does that Porter cable come with a few smaller jigs so you can drill pockets in existing work or in a tight spot?