A Dust Bin Full Detector Option?

[Anthony Whitesell]

I was looking for something to solve a completely different problem when I came across this, an ultrasonic parking asist kit.

182465

http://www.ramseyelectronics.com/cgi-bin/commerce.exe?preadd=action&key=K3502

I'm wondering if we, the ingenious group here, could adapt it for a dust bin full detector kit. From the sounds of the Oneida version (I believe it's theirs anyway) this may be similar.

Any thoughts?

[Myk Rian]

Oneida uses a clock motor driven paddle to detect high dust level. At least the one a friend has is so equipped.

[Anthony Whitesell]

Oneida uses a clock motor driven paddle to detect high dust level. At least the one a friend has is so equipped.

They might have changed up. http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?151222-Oneida-Drum-Fill-Sensor-Install&p=1546839

I asked what technology it was using, and the response was infrared. So I was mistaken as well. But I wonder if you, we, anyone, thinks this thing might work. I am going to be ordering a different kit shortly and may get one at the same time (to save shipping) and try it, unless we know it won't or most likely won't work.

[Alan Schaffter]

Oneida uses a clock motor driven paddle to detect high dust level. At least the one a friend has is so equipped.

Oneida has had a new IR based unit out for several months. It is a little pricey at $148.

http://store.oneida-air.com/images/bin-level-animation.gif

If you are looking to make an inexpensive high dust alarm- my first version, designed to mount between a cyclone and drum was cheap and reliable. It used two inexpensive parts - a $10 day/night sensor and a supplemental light source. I eventually replaced the incandescent with a CFL and experimented with fancy enclosures:

http://www.ncwoodworker.net/pp/data/500/HighDust-1.JPG

http://www.ncwoodworker.net/pp/data/500/HighDust-2.JPG

http://www.ncwoodworker.net/pp/data/500/HighDust-5.JPG

http://www.ncwoodworker.net/pp/data/500/HighDust-3.JPG

http://www.ncwoodworker.net/pp/data/500/medium/P2260032.JPG

http://www.ncwoodworker.net/pp/data/500/medium/P3010007.JPG

http://www.ncwoodworker.net/pp/data/500/medium/P2270046.JPG

[Neil Brooks]

I do like the idea of just cutting out a square, and patching it over with clear plex.

Cheap.
Easy.
Should work.

[Alan Schaffter]

I do like the idea of just cutting out a square, and patching it over with clear plex.

Cheap.
Easy.
Should work.

Unless the unit is in another room where you can't see it.

[Charlie Jones]

Will the photo eye "see" through the clear hose or is a window needed?

[Thomas Hotchkin]

I use Alan's system, 20 watt light going through clear ducting works great. Tom

[Alan Schaffter]

I use Alan's system, 20 watt light going through clear ducting works great. Tom

Thanks Tom!

Yes, the light will be strong enough through clear or even slightly yellowed flex (see photo of installation on a friend's Oneida). I recommend using an LED instead of an incandescent bulb- you can use a brighter one that creates no heat so there is no danger of melting the flex.

http://www.ncwoodworker.net/pp/data/500/medium/IMG_3095.jpg

My cyclone is configured as a push-through so I have not flex or dust drum. I just attach bags to the bottom of the cone. Since I have no flex, I cut a mounting hole for the sensor and a window for the light near the bottom of the cone.