Monster trial run.......

[Roger Chandler]

I took Bernie's advice, and also David Keller's to do a trial run with my Monster Hollowing rig, just to see how the thing works and the different cutters react on wood that was not for my black walnut HF with finial and pedestal. Thanks guys. good advice!

I made this hollow vase out of a piece of Bradford pear that I had ........5-1/2" tall and 3-7/8 wide, and the walls are a consistent 1/8" thick, except I left just a tad extra at the opening on purpose, but it still cracked on me! :eek:

This was a total hurry up job........I wanted to hurry up and get to my other work for today, and get this trial run over with so I could be ready to get to my other form next week [hopefully] The form is a little off, as I did not get the curve like I should have, but it was just a practice run, so I am not too upset with myself.

Also, I had made a small bowl from the same wood to take unfinished to our Charles Neil finishing demo last Saturday..........there were more unfinished than he had time, and mine was not one he picked to work with, so I finished it a couple of days ago with some WOP.

The Monster rig is pretty intuitive if you have ever hollowed with hand held tools.......I see now that I could have gone straight to the black walnut HF, but this was still good practice to get the feel for the rig.

This Monster system is really slick! I don't know if hollowing could get any better than with this system. No distress, no catches [at least today] no torque on hands and wrists, and no fighting the tool..........just smooth steady cutting action. I did have to follow John K's advice and change the laser a few times depending on the area I was working on. Also I figured if I could get a small form done without catches etc, then a larger one would not be too difficult as far as the hollowing is concerned.

Thought I would share, even though I am not satisfied with the form on the hollowed vase.

182411182412182413182414182415182416182417

[Rich Aldrich]

The hollow form came out pretty good. The monster is on my list, but I am not sure of the priority of stuff that I want (need).

I really like the form of the bowl.

[Bernie Weishapl]

Roger you did well and don't see you having any problem doing your walnut piece. HF and bowl are really nice looking pieces. Nicely done.

[Roger Chandler]

The hollow form came out pretty good. The monster is on my list, but I am not sure of the priority of stuff that I want (need).

I really like the form of the bowl.

Rich,

If you do decide on monster system, I think you will really love it. It is a world of difference than trying to do it with hand held tools............the laser really takes the guessing out of wall thickness, and I actually used 3 different tips on this, and all worked well!

[Roger Chandler]

Roger you did well and don't see you having any problem doing your walnut piece. HF and bowl are really nice looking pieces. Nicely done.


Thanks Bernie.........I missed on the form for sure, but I did this in a hurry, and was more concerned with the hollowing process than the form, as I wanted to break in the Monster rig, and your suggestion was a good one for the dry run..........at least I know I can do it!

[John Keeton]

Roger, I think you are ready for the walnut!! Looks like you did very well with the Monster rig!

[David E Keller]

Bring on the walnut! I'm glad to hear that you enjoyed the rig, and it looks like you've got the hang of it.

[Steve Schlumpf]

Roger - your vase looks pretty good! Happy to hear you like your new system!

Only suggestion I have is that if you feel you are going to have to rush to do a turning - then don't even start. When you rush - you are just pushing your luck with either a catch or worse.

I look forward to seeing your first 'official' HF off the new system! Have fun with it and remember that the laser only points to where you tell it! Adjust constantly!

[Jon Nuckles]

Looking good, Roger. It must be hard to let the new toy sit while you attend to the rest of your life. Hope you get some quality time with it soon.

[Tim Thiebaut]

Just curious how long did it take to hollow that? I have been working since yesterday on a piece of Claro Walnut I have been saving for 2 months now, until I felt like I had enough experience to turn it without ruining it, and so far I have about 3-4 hours into the hollowing itself and its about a consistent 1/2 thick and about "6 inches tall and 4 at the widest, so just curious how long do you think it would take to hollow something like this with it?

[John Keeton]

Tim, Roger can comment on his pear piece, but I do a lot with Claro walnut, and the size you have mentioned shouldn't take more than an hour easily - perhaps less. I am just talking about the hollowing of the form - no prep or outside work. There are factors that will effect that - the actual contour, the opening, etc.

[Roger Chandler]

Tim,

As you get comfortable and some experience under your belt with hollowing, your pace will increase and project completion time will decrease. John's answer is pretty much right on the money.

[Baxter Smith]

Looks like you are getting the hang of it in short order Roger. Good luck with that walnut!

[Tim Thiebaut]

Thanks guys, I just wanted to compare roughly how long it took with your system versus by hand as I am doing it now...I see one of these in my future!

[Tony De Masi]

Nice job Roger. But I'll have to agree with Steve in that if you are in a hurry, then don't bother. Just wait til you have the time to commit to the piece and to the learning of a new tool.

[charlie knighton]

looks good, Roger

question, did you use a rag and keep the outside wet where the wood cracked???

i have had some cracking problems or opportunties and plan to try this

[Roger Chandler]

looks good, Roger

question, did you use a rag and keep the outside wet where the wood cracked???

i have had some cracking problems or opportunties and plan to try this

Charlie,

I applied a good coat of dewaxed shellac with a rag, and did the same on the inside while on the lathe. After it dried a half hour or so, I put 2 coats of WOP on it while on the lathe, let it dry and then parted off the tenon and wiped on some WOP on the bottom. I did put some CA glue in the crack before the shellac.

[charlie knighton]

where was the crack

[Roger Chandler]

where was the crack

It was on the rim.

[charlie knighton]

mine are usually in the top 1/3 of form, usually it cracks before i can finish hollowing.....going to try keeping it wet til i finish hollowing.....not positive it will work.....just another thing to check off to see if it works......someone posted it somewhere, just got to check it out, the more round or more lift i have the more cracks i get

[Mark Hubl]

Congrats on the new tool. It looks like your are getting the hang of it.

[Roger Chandler]

Congrats on the new tool. It looks like your are getting the hang of it.

Thanks, Mark!

[Roger Chandler]

Nice job Roger. But I'll have to agree with Steve in that if you are in a hurry, then don't bother. Just wait til you have the time to commit to the piece and to the learning of a new tool.

Tony........I really hear you and Steve as well.........and I agree with you! That being said, if I waited until I have time to turn or do any other wood working, then I would hardly ever do it. My life is a very busy one.

Now, I take a couple of hours sometimes in the afternoon when I have most of my other things at a point where I can stop, and resume them the next day. I also place the highest value on safety........if I cannot do it safely, then I won't even try to get something going. I really like having 10 fingers on my hands and two eyes that can see, and safety is always number 1 with me, no exceptions.

I think a lot of times my work has cyclical times when it is more than I can get done, and then it will cycle to a time where I have a little time here and there..............sometimes I wish I had all day long to devote to a turning, but that usually does not happen.........usually an hour here and one there, but that makes the process less than desirable, but every once in a while, I will carve out a day just for me, when I see one of those cycles coming where I can do it without leaving higher priorities undone.

[Steve Vaughan]

I certainly understand that time thing Roger. I think you've done a good job here, and I'm glad to see and hear from folks on this thread, about going by hand, then getting a monster. Between these comments and comments on similar threads, I'm seriously feeling like this has got to be the next tool purchase for me whether I like it or not!

[Roger Chandler]

I certainly understand that time thing Roger. I think you've done a good job here, and I'm glad to see and hear from folks on this thread, about going by hand, then getting a monster. Between these comments and comments on similar threads, I'm seriously feeling like this has got to be the next tool purchase for me whether I like it or not!

Steve........

If you have your heart set on doing hollow forms, then it can be done and done well by hand tools. It is work for sure, as the torque and such make it a bit tedious. As you know, I have only one form under my belt with the Monster..............I am so glad I got this rig! For some, they might enjoy the punishment, :eek: er, uh, I mean process ;) of hollowing using hand tools, and it can be a very accomplished result.

When you consider the different tools needed for the hollowing, then the smoothing [like hunter carbide tools] if one goes ahead and gets the Monster rig, then all the tips are included, and the price is not all that much different in the long run, and you get a much more pleasurable and predictable result with the monster system.

I can see why you would want to make this one a priority..........looking forward to pics in the near future of your Monster rig! :D