Office Workstations Construction Begins

[Mark Singer]

Friday , Ryan met me at Weber Plywood, another local hardwood supplier. We picked up beautiful...Rif sawn White Oak w/ MDF core. I also got Pro panel which is the ultra lite MDF...it is really worth the difference in price. Also about 100BF of rif sawm white oak...rough hardwood. 4x8 sheets of prefinished Apple ply for the drawers and an 1/4" version for the cabinet backs. Then we picked up the drawer glides , some hardware and oak edge banding at Austin.
I layed all the dimensions out...whicjh are critical since the file folders ride on aluminum "L'"s and must be 15 1/4" c to c.
The pics show basic European cabinet constrution using the Kreg jig, a Freud Edgebander. The design is simple and efficient.The stretchers at the top catch the ply back...there is a rabbet on the carcass to accept it. The visible edges were edgebanded. Holes were drilled with a Jig for adjustable shelves.
This system goes fast! This is about 10 hours work and there are 9 large cabinets. Making the drawers will be next. This will be out of the 1/2"appleply. The Rif sawn White oak is for the top and cabinet doors and drawer fronts.

[Mark Singer]

another pic..showing the back

[Jim Becker]

Mucho progress there, Mark! Did you settle on the design that you originally posted or are there changes?

[John Miliunas]

Dang it, man! You're a regular WW machine over there!:D Must be sufin' in da water, heh?!:) As Jim said, great progress! That represents about a week's worth out of my shop! Thanks for the play-by-play!:cool:

[Kelly C. Hanna]

Mark, you're a madman in that shop!! Looking forward to the posts!!

[Mark Singer]

Jim,

It is pretty much the original design...Anders on my staff wanted the storage module 24" deep to enable a set of plans on that side. So i turnrd the files to front load rather than lateral. I got these super Acuuride file drawer glides. They were around $17.50 a pair. They go beyond full extension and support 200#. For the small drawers I just got the Dyna slides. I have been building Euro cabinets for about 25 years...it is almost second nature. I refined this system over the years...it is about as simple as can be. Every part does something. The carcass sides run full height putting the screws in shear...which is much stronger. The back is glued and gun nailed...Poplar 1x4 on the top. A real top of the Oak will follow. I will use the Blum 100 degree hinges with a 3/8 overlay to leave an eigth at the gap between panels. This is not what I consider fine woodworking...it is still fun and I know the end result will look nice.

[Jim Becker]

'Curious as to why the pocket screws in the cabinet bottoms are not "on the bottom" rather than inside the carcass? Will they be covered up? Plugged? Just curious...

[Mark Singer]

Jim,

It is easier to assemble. You don't have to flip after clamping. The file drawers will hide the carcass. In the open cabinets a finished bottom filler is installed. The file drawers hide the MDF sides also...that is why the edge banding is only on the front edge. It is similar to the construction I used in my closet with the walnut plywood and solid edging. It works really good


'Curious as to why the pocket screws in the cabinet bottoms are not "on the bottom" rather than inside the carcass? Will they be covered up? Plugged? Just curious...

[tom clark]

I was wondering Mark if you have found it necessary to glue the cabinet joints?

[Mark Singer]

Yes,

I never relly only on the pocket screws. Tightbond III on the carcass. I will use Roo Melamine Glue on the drawers since they are prefinished a penetrating glue doesen't work well.

[Jerry Olexa]

Mark...Slow Down!! You're making the rest of us look bad!! Great, professional work as always AND QUICK!!!

[Charlie Woods]

Mark.... you move any quicker friction will build up and the shop might catch fire.:eek: Looks great though; and all done in a shop about the same size as mine. It never fails, it is always guys like Mark that ruin the grading curve for the rest of us...:D Keep the updates/pictures comming.

[Mark Singer]

I manged to get in about 5 hours today and got all 9 file drawers built starting with pre finished stock. Drawer bottoms are in. I have one mounted on glides which work great! I also cut and dadoed the pencil drawer material.

[Bartee Lamar]

Mark,
Maybe I missed it but what is the drawer material?

I used you suggestion of Kreg Pocket hole on my first drawer project using 3/4" "SandePly" from HD. The drawer boxes are excellent and very easy to make.. I used pocket holes on the sides, but really see how brilliant an idea it is to use pocket holes on front/back. They way the drawer covers the holes.

thanks for sharing.....

[Mark Singer]

Today in a very short time I completed 9 small upper drawers. Now I need to mount them with the slides. Lets see if Tyler catches I did not provide Pics!

[John Miliunas]

Today in a very short time I completed 9 small upper drawers. Now I need to mount them with the slides. Lets see if Tyler catches I did not provide Pics!
No, doesn't appear that Tyler did, but *I* did!:D Mark, you just gotta' slow down, man! You're really making many of us out here look downright silly!:eek: I'm starting to get a complex. Heck, probably a GOOD thing you didn't post the pics!:D Well, that notwithstanding, you're making awesome progress and keep us posted, no matter how much it's killin' us!:) :cool:

[Darren Ford]

I can't wait to see the finished product. Fortunately I won't have to wait at the rate you are going.

5 hours in the shop gives me just enough time to move stuff around, find some tools, and screw up my first cut.

[Scott Coffelt]

Me too. He must be on a special Viagra for woodworking. Got ta get me some of that.... I thought I used to get things done fast, no way. Maybe Mark can visit when I start making the cabinets for the new house.

Material List as it sits today:
62 Sheets of Maple, Birch and Figured Plywood
17 Sheets of Baltic Birch Plywood
300 bdft of Birdseye and Regular Maple
etc. etc. etc.

To build Kitchen, 1/2 and Master Bathroom Cabinets; custom built-ins and a California Closet style of Master Closet.... as of today.

OH how I am torn between excitement and depression. :rolleyes:

[Mark Singer]

I got all of the cabinets installed in the studio today. They are hanging from A French Cleat and will have stainless legs. All the drawers are made. Next step is to construct the top and drawer and door fronts!

[Rich Konopka]

Nice work Mark !! I'm looking forward to seeing the completed system. It is a very fast efficient and effective way to build cabinets.

Regards

[Jim Dunn]

What brand of drawer slide is that Mark? Also it seems that the cabinets are on the floor, or is it the angle of the pics? You said something about stainless feet for the units.
Also did you find the pocket hole's quicker or just something different in that many drawer units?
I always find your posts most interesting and very informative. I some times don't understand what I'm seeing but that's "MY" fault I'm just a newbie.
Jim

[Byron Trantham]

Mark, I really like the design. I especially like your attention to the construction process. Specifically, putting the pocket holes in the bottom of the carcass then covering them up. I see the time savings in not having to flip the unit over but isn't that saved time burned up cutting the fillers? Or was saving time not the issue? In any case, I really like the effect of the whole project. Can't wait to see it finished. :D

[Mark Singer]

Jim,

The file drawers have the Accuride File slides and the small drawers have the Dyna slideswhich is a copy of the lower end Accuride # 3264

The drawer construction using the Kreg is the fastest strongest way that I know of. It is clean .
Byron.
In most cabinets the file drawers hide the entire carcass , pocket holes and all. The cabinet under the desk holds the CPU and the interior will remain MDF. That only leaves 3 small cabinets that require a shef and bottom.

Mark

[John Miliunas]

Rock 'n Roll, Dude! Rock 'n Roll!!!:D Kickin' some serious butt there, my friend! Let's see...From the time you started the project, right about now, I'd probably (maybe!) have about two...maybe three carcass units built!:( Guess it really helps to know what in the heck you're doing as you're doing it, don't it?!!:) Nice job, Mark. Can't wait to see the completed install. As Darren said, don't look like we'll have to wait too long!:D :cool:

[Mark Singer]

I built and installed the top today. It is rif cut white oak. This is really the first time the beauty of the wood is seen. I gave it a coat of Daly's. The total length is about 27' so there are 4 sections. They were dry bisquited. Only half was glued so they can be removed since there is phone, power and networking in the wall. I used drawbolts to connect them. The front edge is 1 1/2" solid rif sawn oak. I used the Kreg jig to attach the edging. It is glued and I used a few brads to align it.

[Jim Becker]

Yalsa! That really looks great, Mark!! The rift-sawn oak is really beautiful, yet not "distracting". You're really making progress on this project.

[Mark Singer]

Jim,

I could have bought Quarter sawn or rif sawn for about the same price...the quarter sawn has way more rays which get busy on large surfaces. I actually perfer tha quarter sawn for smaller furniture parts where there are no large panels. I payed about $95 a sheet, but it is A/1 and domestic. The next best price I had was $112. So I did good. I bought the solid rif oak in the rough for $3.75 and it was like a close out. It is really nice and stable.


Yalsa! That really looks great, Mark!! The rift-sawn oak is really beautiful, yet not "distracting". You're really making progress on this project.

[John Miliunas]

Lookin' good, Mark! That should be nice and stable throughout. Are you doing anything on the wall side to trim it out a bit between the block and Oak top?:cool:

[Dan Mages]

lookin good so far!! Keep up the good work!

Dan

[Mark Singer]

I have completed all the drawer and door fronts. They were edge banded with my Freud bander and the edges look clean and tight.These are matched in sets and the grain is continuous, running vertical. It is a great advantage of venneered plywood. I am using a Haffle pull that is very clean and must be mortised in flush with the panel. With oak it is difficolt to not tear out when using the router. There are 24 such pulls , so I made a jig that allows the rear and top mortise cuts in one operation. There are slots sized for both cuts. I used a laminate trimmer and a bearing guide. The grain must be cut with a cutting gauge in each location where it is cutting across. I use a cutting gauge and a mortise gauge and knife for the 2 settings. On the edge tape the knife also is used to cut the grain. A chisel squares the 2 lower corners. The fit is great with no tearout since it was cut before routing. This could be a difficult piece of hardware to install, but it was really very easy.

[John Miliunas]

Nice and clean, Mark! There's just something I really like about the SS look. (Amazing, 'cuz even LOML likes it, too! We *never* seem to agree on stuff like that!) You have, however, hit on the one thing, which I really need to work on: Making proper jigs to make the job easier/better. I'm starting to learn that, but need to be more pro-active about it. :) As usual, great job, Mark!:) :cool:

[Frank Pellow]

Mark, I like your design, your material selection, and your workmanship (not to mention your speed)!

Thanks for showing the steps. I am sure that I will be able to incorporate some of the things that you did in this project in some of my future projects.

[Jon Olson]

Great documented project. Thanks. The designs are simple functional and easily accomplished on a much smaller scale if need be. That Kreg jig is the next item on my long list of tools needed. :)

Jon

[Chris Padilla]

Mark,

Can you tell me more about the L-shaped pieces of Al you used to hang the file holders on? I need to do this exact thing for my EC and I like what you used. Nice clean little project! :) I wonder if Al might be too soft over time?

[Mark Singer]

Chris,

They are from Hafele...the aluminium collection....their line of hardware is huge and reasonable they are on linehttp://www.hafeleonline.com/usa/images/products/presentationPanels/100-00-M37.jpg


Mark,

Can you tell me more about the L-shaped pieces of Al you used to hang the file holders on? I need to do this exact thing for my EC and I like what you used. Nice clean little project! :) I wonder if Al might be too soft over time?

[Chris Padilla]

Cool...thanks! :)

[Mark Singer]

I installed all the large and small drawer fronts....and I am pleased with the wood grain and hardware. Now it is clear the interior of these cabinets is not visible. The edge banding is tight and looks good.

[Jim Becker]

Absolutely marvie!! The vertical grain on the fronts really looks nice...that keeps things looking unified all the way across the row.

[Keith Christopher]

Very nice Mark ! well done !

[Kelly C. Hanna]

Nicely done is right. I love the drawer fronts.

[Mike Vermeil]

Mark,

Like everyone has said, nice cabinets. What blade do you use cross-cutting all that oak veneered board, and how is it on splintering? I need to pick up a new blade (after some unamed person managed to ruin one of my blades by using it way past the point of dullness), and was thinking about trying a WWer II after good results for the past few years with Frued.

Thanks,
Mike

[Mark Singer]

Mike,

That is a great question. Forrest WWII is the answer. They are on sale at Amazon right now. There is another post about it. Great blade...did not splinter the Oak...did a lot better than my Festool Plunge w/ the fine blade!


Mark,

Like everyone has said, nice cabinets. What blade do you use cross-cutting all that oak veneered board, and how is it on splintering? I need to pick up a new blade (after some unamed person managed to ruin one of my blades by using it way past the point of dullness), and was thinking about trying a WWer II after good results for the past few years with Frued.

Thanks,
Mike

[Kevin Murdock]

Mark,

I thought that you were a big advocate of the DeWalt blades with something to the effect of half the price with similar performance. The model was DW7657

Have you changed your position? I ask as I was thinking of picking up a DeWalt based on your recommendation.

Thanks,
/Kevin

Edited to all the actual model #

[Mark Singer]

Kevin , the Dewalt is a great blade for the money. The WWII is better. Especially cuting veneered ply cross grain. At the current sale price at Amazon...I would get the WWII.

[Mike Vermeil]

Thanks for the info Mark. Do you use the standard 1/8" blade, or the thin kerf 3/32"?

Mike

[Mark Singer]

Mike,

I have a 3 HP Powermatic 66 and use the 1/8" , if you have the power get the same. It is a better blade.


Thanks for the info Mark. Do you use the standard 1/8" blade, or the thin kerf 3/32"?

Mike

[Mike Vermeil]

It's on order! Thanks Mark. I was pretty set on the standard kerf, but thought I'd see if maybe you had some reasoning for the thin kerf.

Mike

[Mark Singer]

A little more progress...The main storage cabineyt is completed with all doors and drawers...27 lineal ft.. 18 drawers and 6 cabinets with doors. This system is very efficient,

[Jim Becker]

The shadow lines and reveals are great on this, Mark. It looks positively wonderful!

[Kelly C. Hanna]

Beautiful work Mark! I love the drawer fronts.

[Dan Mages]

Wow!! That does look great!! One critique tho. I do not see anywhere to plug in electronics, like a fax machine, printer, lamps, etc... Are there any plugs behind the cabinets?

Dan

[Corvin Alstot]

Mark/
Fast progress and beautiful cabinets!
I have been following your progress but you have not discussed your finish
types in much detail. You mentioned using Daly's on the oak tops. What kind
of finish is this? and how is it applied.

I was also looking for one finish you mentioned for another project, I think it
was for your your guest bed - Tried and True. Is this a poly and oil type wipe
on finish. I have a couple projects that are nearing completion and looking
for some finish info.

Thanks,
Corvin

Keep up the great work.

[Jim Becker]

Tried and True. Is this a poly and oil type wipe
on finish.
Tried and True is a polymerized linseed oil product (no metalic driers)--none of that evil poly in it! Just oil. Or just oil and bees wax. Or just oil and natural pine resins. Depending on which of the three formulas you choose. (I only use the first two as I just don't prefer the third, varnish oil formula. Personal preference only...it's a good product)

[Mark Singer]

Dan, we are very low tech,,,,T squares,,,triangles, just kidding...I need to drill a few holes in the top then the wires will be hidden
Wow!! That does look great!! One critique tho. I do not see anywhere to plug in electronics, like a fax machine, printer, lamps, etc... Are there any plugs behind the cabinets?

Dan

[Mark Singer]

Corvin,
I remeber seeing you a few weeks ago and didn't realize you look so much like Corbusier...amazing...!!!! Great avatar!
Corvin, I use Tried and True on solid wood and Daly's on both solid and veneer like the Oak used here. The Tried and True would have worked here also. The doors have one coat of Daly's Ben Matte...oil goes on with rag , wet sand with 400 wet and dry on a block by hand only ...wit the grain,,,rub out with paper towels. Te top has 3 coats of Daly's and now it needs paste wax.

Mark/
Fast progress and beautiful cabinets!
I have been following your progress but you have not discussed your finish
types in much detail. You mentioned using Daly's on the oak tops. What kind
of finish is this? and how is it applied.

I was also looking for one finish you mentioned for another project, I think it
was for your your guest bed - Tried and True. Is this a poly and oil type wipe
on finish. I have a couple projects that are nearing completion and looking
for some finish info.

Thanks,
Corvin

Keep up the great work.

[William Lai]

Mark, do you intend to put some sort of grommet (i.e. trim ring around the hole)in the hole you cut for the wires? I have a similar situation and wonder if it'll help cover up the innard of the PB that I used for counterop, or will it be too dark to notice anyway.

And regarding your system as being efficient: I am sure that the method is great, but what makes it really efficient is you!

[Mark Singer]

William,

The wires will come out under the tops which sit on this linear cabinet. I will use gromets to trim out the hole...but it doesn't actually show.

[Jim Becker]

I will use gromets to trim out the hole...but it doesn't actually show.
Also stainless I presume?

[Kyle Stiefel]

Mark,

Great job on the project, I have enjoyed watching your very efficiently run project take shape. I have a question on your WWII. I also run the same blade on my TS. I am going to be making a new outfeed table out of 3/4" melamine. Have you ever used your WWII to cut melamine? I know alot of people recommend you go up to a 60tooth for that type of stuff.

I was thinking either that or possibly another blade in my circular but I would prefer to cut it on the TS.

Any thoughts?

[Mark Singer]

It cuts it just fine! Melamine will make a good outfeed table..I would boarder it with wood since the edges are sharp and will cut you or your project. I use 1" Mdf and it woorks very well

[Stephen Stokes]

Mark,

Excellent system. I have decided to use it to build a cabinet for my home office. Why did you set the 1x4 stretcher on the front back from the edge of the cabinet:confused:?

Regards,
Stokes

[Mark Singer]

Mark,

Excellent system. I have decided to use it to build a cabinet for my home office. Why did you set the 1x4 stretcher on the front back from the edge of the cabinet:confused:?

Regards,
Stokes

If you mean on the top, then there are 2 one front and one back to make the carcass lighter. The final finished top goes over it.

[Mike Alagna]

What a great tutorial. Thank you for sharing all of the progress. What did you use for the drawer bottoms. You said you used prefinished ply for the sides but the bottoms are white. Could you share. Thanks

[Mark Singer]

What a great tutorial. Thank you for sharing all of the progress. What did you use for the drawer bottoms. You said you used prefinished ply for the sides but the bottoms are white. Could you share. Thanks
Mike ,
Melamine or vinyl drawer bottoms...comes in 4x8 sheets

[Jeff Kerr]

Mark,

This project has been very helpful to me from a learning perspective. I am currently building some cabinets for my shop and have a question on joining them together and support from underneath.

So in my build I am using 2 ft boxes out of 3/4" ply and plan to join them on a 6 ft run and a 4 ft run. I assume that I just clamp them together and screw them to each other correct?

Also I have been kicking around the idea of mounting these on caster so that I can move them arround if needed. My plan was to just use 3/4" ply for a cart base and set the cabinets on top. Do I need to do that since they are not made from one continous box?

Hope this makes sense. It looks like in this project most of the weight is being carried by the wall cleat. Is that why you can get away with the wide spacing for the feet on the front?

Jeff

[Mark Singer]

Jeff,
If you are mounting on a wall...a french cleat or internal cleat , you just can screw them together. If they are free standing or on casters, you should try to make one carcass or make a long rail carrier frame and place the boxes on that, then the casters.