Bandsaw Blade Twists Halfway Through The Cut

[Scott Vigder]

I've tried this twice with the same (Gr*#@*) result. On a 14" bandsaw, I'm trying to cut a 7"x1"x30" piece into two 7"x1/2"x30" pieces. Squaring everything up, the blade starts to wander around the 15" mark, but only the top half of the blade wanders as the bottom is still spot-on the mark, so in effect the top half of the blade is twisting in the wood. I've checked everything according to my Lonnie Bird bandsaw book and it all seems to be correct. I fed the second piece extra-slow. I'm using a 3/8" blade, tensioned properly. Can anyone shed light on what I am missing? Thanks for you input.

[glenn bradley]

You don't mention the tooth count. 3 TPI max for 7" of cut. The behavior you describe probably comes from the blade "bunching up" at the top of the cut. That is; the blade is not retaining even enough tension and the "slack" is allowing some wandering. On a 14" saw it seems there are some standard tune-ups that are required when you add a riser (or maybe your saw is already that tall, you don't mention your saw make and model either):

- new spring (the factory spring is rarely adequate
- new blade (1/2" 2-3 skip or other resawing blade)

I'm sure there's more but the spring and blade seem to get the most bang for the buck. Example; on my 2HP saw I cut tall pieces with 1/4" x 7TPI for curves (slowly), 3/4" x 3TPI for resaw.

[Van Huskey]

Horsepower, type of guides, wood specie and specific blade you are using? Oh and what make/model of saw. I already assume it is a Delta cast clone with a riser block.

A picture of the finished cut would be nice too.

[Bill Davis]

I'd suggest a more substantial blade in terms of blade width. You did not mention the type of wood but that doesn't change my thoughts on perhaps using at least a 5/8 " 3TPI blade.

I have used my stock 14" 3/4HP BS to resaw hard and heavy Ebony that was 8-10" cut thickness and 6' long. It was a slow process but my blade didn't have drift or other problems. Not sure why. So It can be done but there are several parameters to look at. Again I'd suggest starting with a more suitable blade.

[Howard Acheson]

>>>> I'm using a 3/8" blade, tensioned properly.

Wrong blade. Use a 1/2" 2-3 TPI skip tooth resaw blade. It also sounds like your 3/8" blade may need to be replaced.

[paul dyar]

I had this same problem with a 14" Delta running a number of different blades. timberwolf, woodslicer and delta (delta being the worse by far). The timberwolf and the woodslicer cut fine when new, then after (what I consider very little use) they would do what you are describing. I adjusted the saw countless times. Then I bit the bullet and got a Lenox ¾” carbide and changed the tires. Not sure how much the tires helped, but the saw is like a deferent saw now. I have sawed twice the amount with the Lenox and it is still cutting as good as it did when I first put it on.
Paul

[Harvey Pascoe]

I have had the same thing happen without ever finding out why. Making it more mysterious, the same blade then cut the next piece of wood fine. I'm assuming the blade was thrown off by a change in density/figure in the wood. I agree, the 3/8" blade is too small for 7" of wood, but a good blade that size should do the job. Dullness and resin build up on the blade will throw it off, too.

I would love a Lennox carbide until it comes to veneering those $60 bd/ft boards and then the size of the kerf wastage sticks in my craw. But then I'm not sure which costs more, paying for 2 woodslicer blades per month or the wood. Maybe I need to recalculate this issue?

[Josiah Bartlett]

Are you using a fence to do this or freehand? Is your fence adjusted for drift?

You may indeed have too high a tooth count (causes the teeth to load up and cut poorly), but I don't agree with the school that says you need a mega-wide blade for resawing. It can help if you have crummy guides, but the teeth should be able to cut in a straight line without having to rely on the back side of the blade to keep it straight in the kerf.

[shane lyall]

I had one do something simalar a few years ago. Upon closer examination I had somehow destroyed the set of the teeth. Not sure if that has anything to do with your problem but might be something to look at. It was so slight I could only find it with digital calipers. It only drifted to one side every time and didn't wander.

[Lee Schierer]

I agree with the others, a 1/2" or wider blade and 3 TPI. Check your belt tension on your motor to make sure it is tight enough to deliver full power to the cut. You are going to need to max out the tension if you have the stock tension spring.

[Richard Coers]

I can resaw just as well with a 3/8 blade as a 3/4. You just have to slow down and let the teeth cut. Most people resaw too quickly and the gullets of the teeth fill with sawdust. You compensate by pushing harder, and the blade will bow. If you complete a resaw cut, there should be no sawdust left on the inside surfaces of the board. If you are seeing sawdust in there, slow down! Also the comments on tooth count is very important. Nothing more than 3 teeth per inch for resawing.

[Scott Vigder]

Thanks for all the input....I have to (groan) take the family to a warmer climate for a week and won't be able to test some of these suggestions until we return.

[Van Huskey]

Bummer, still don't have anymore info to hazerd a guess.