Customized Green Monster

[Roger Chandler]

Well, after delays from the post office, my Monster Articulated Hollowing system arrived today from Randy Privett. To say the least, this is a quality machined and well thought out system. I am looking forward to my first HF with this setup.

The system was custom made for my particular lathe [Grizzly G0698] which has an 18" swing, and Randy even matched up the paint "Grizzly Green" and the fit of all the parts is just superb. There is no slop in the system anywhere, and the fittings are all dead on in mating up with one another.

Randy had a delay in sending because of the big blizzard in his neck of the woods, and had live power lines down across his driveway, and no one could get in or out for a few days until the power company took care of the danger, but he notified me of the delay, and also sent in advance of the arrival of the rig, some set up info, and picture tutorials for my reference.

His efforts were professional all the way, and he lived up to my expectations fully. I also want to thank all those on the forum for your encouragement to seriously consider this setup..........I did not think that "all" the folks on this forum would lie to me! :eek::D:D;)

Here are the pics...........

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[John Keeton]

Roger, feels just like Christmas, doesn't it!!! You are going to love this system. I notice you have the base lined up with your ways. Most of the time, you will find that a greater range of movement is provided by having it as suggested by Randy - kind of a 45* angle on the ways. You may have already noted that and just have it on there for the "photo session."

Lots to learn with this system. Getting it up and running is easy - you have done that. But, learning to correctly use the laser, and which cutter to use when makes all the difference in the world. Also, make sure you tighten down the screw on the circular cutter head - it can and will move on you if you do not. And, that means the laser is lying to you!!! Not a good thing - I speak from experience!

Yell if you have questions - there are a bunch of us out here that will be glad to help. Have fun, and I expect to see the first Monster HF in a few days!

[Justin Stephen]

I assume the circular cutter is for finishing cuts? Has anyone bought the "Monster Super Scraper" attachment that they sell?

http://monster-lathe-tools.com/cart.php?target=product&product_id=290&category_id=67

[John Keeton]

Justin, when I referred to the circular head, I was referring to the one on the left in Roger's 4th pic - with the HSS cutter. The next one is a carbide cutter that I have used with mixed results. It can be really grabby. I blew up an ash form with it just the other day - my very first explosion!! I use the circular cutting head for most of my work. I like using the smaller cutters, and the flexibility of the circular head is nice.

I had not seen the scraper head - looks interesting, though!

[Steve Vaughan]

If I said I was only a little envious, I'd be telling a big, fat, WHOOPING LIE! Nice rig there!

[Bernie Weishapl]

Congrats Roger. You are going to love it. Ditto what John said about the base at a 45* angle. Gives you a lot more wiggle room so to speak.

[Roger Chandler]

Roger, feels just like Christmas, doesn't it!!! You are going to love this system. I notice you have the base lined up with your ways. Most of the time, you will find that a greater range of movement is provided by having it as suggested by Randy - kind of a 45* angle on the ways. You may have already noted that and just have it on there for the "photo session."

Lots to learn with this system. Getting it up and running is easy - you have done that. But, learning to correctly use the laser, and which cutter to use when makes all the difference in the world. Also, make sure you tighten down the screw on the circular cutter head - it can and will move on you if you do not. And, that means the laser is lying to you!!! Not a good thing - I speak from experience!

Yell if you have questions - there are a bunch of us out here that will be glad to help. Have fun, and I expect to see the first Monster HF in a few days!

Thanks for the info, John. This is actually a Christmas present from my wife. It just took a little time for Randy to custom make it. I just mounted this on the lathe for photographic purposes, and I am glad you mentioned the 45 degree angle, as a reminder. That laser and the corresponding heads for certain purposes................

I would think the larger cutter [1/4"] is for hogging out the most of the material, and the 3/16" cutter would be for lighter cuts, and the carbide for finishing. Like my hunter carbide tools. I would suppose the angled pieces, one on the round cutter head, and the other on a boring bar [not pictured, because it was in my pocket] would be for the hard to reach edges, and underneath the lip.

If that is correct, then I need some help for the laser adjustment with each different tip. All help is definitely appreciated............you guys have been down this road before me, and know where the potholes are, so I would like to avoid them if possible...........so bring on the info!!! Thanks in advance! :);) I am a yellin'! :D

[Tim Thiebaut]

That does look like a very well built system you have there. I have been working on a rather small HF and am just getting frustrated time and again useing this little hand held hollower, and cutting so slow to avoid getting catches I am having to lean over the end of the lathe to peer into the form while hollowing is playing hell on my back which is not good to begin with...I think a mini one of these is in my near future. Congrats on your new tool I am sure you will put it to good use! Tim

[John Keeton]

I would think the larger cutter [1/4"] is for hogging out the most of the material, and the 3/16" cutter would be for lighter cuts...Roger, others may do it differently, but I do the opposite of what you have stated. The smaller cutter will cut better, with less resistance, and less likelihood of a catch. On end grain, going straight in, and on the bottom, I do use the 1/4" cutter. But, on the outside, with a faster surface speed, I use the 1/4" for very light finishing cuts. I do not use the carbide tip anymore. I am sure it can be used successfully, but I don't know that I want to climb the learning curve.

The big thing on the laser is to be cognizant of the actual cutting surface of the tip you are using - given the position in the form. There will be times you are cutting off the very end, and the laser needs to register there. There will be times you are cutting off the left "corner" of the tip, and the laser needs to be registered there. As you move through the form - particularly when you are getting toward the final thickness, you will need to change the laser position often. This is critical!

[Roger Chandler]

Roger, others may do it differently, but I do the opposite of what you have stated. The smaller cutter will cut better, with less resistance, and less likelihood of a catch. On end grain, going straight in, and on the bottom, I do use the 1/4" cutter. But, on the outside, with a faster surface speed, I use the 1/4" for very light finishing cuts. I do not use the carbide tip anymore. I am sure it can be used successfully, but I don't know that I want to climb the learning curve.

The big thing on the laser is to be cognizant of the actual cutting surface of the tip you are using - given the position in the form. There will be times you are cutting off the very end, and the laser needs to register there. There will be times you are cutting off the left "corner" of the tip, and the laser needs to be registered there. As you move through the form - particularly when you are getting toward the final thickness, you will need to change the laser position often. This is critical!

Thank you John. The way you use the 1/4" tip surprises me. I wonder if the other guys do the same thing? I do think the carbide round tip can be grabby, as I have experienced that with my hunter tools, but I think that using them in a captured system will produce less "grab" than with hand held.........at least that is my rationale, but it remains to be seen in actual usage.

I think I will keep your previous comment in a print out for referral as I learn to use this system.

[Justin Stephen]

Justin, when I referred to the circular head, I was referring to the one on the left in Roger's 4th pic - with the HSS cutter. The next one is a carbide cutter that I have used with mixed results. It can be really grabby. I blew up an ash form with it just the other day - my very first explosion!! I use the circular cutting head for most of my work. I like using the smaller cutters, and the flexibility of the circular head is nice.

I had not seen the scraper head - looks interesting, though!

Thanks, John. My hollowing experiences thus far have been with Trent Bosch hand tools and doing finishing cuts with a scraper that doesn't look all that different from the "super scraper" I linked above. How are you achieving your finishing on your forms, just with very light, fine cuts with the HSS bits?

Edit: Never mind, looks like you answered my question above.

[David E Keller]

Congrats, Roger! I love mine, and I use the scrapers all the time for finishing cuts and smoothing out ridges. I got the swan neck bar for mine as well which helps when using the scraper near the shoulder. I rarely use my carbide cutter because I've had such good luck with the HSS bits.

I'm glad you posted the pics, as I just remembered that I lost the little swivel head cutter at some point... Must have been swept up in some shavings. That brings me to my point, find a place to store all of the little bits and doo-dads so that you don't lose any of the parts. I wish I had a hard case with a foam liner to put all of my accessories in... Randy, have you ever though about cases? If you do, consider me to be first in line.

Keep us posted on the progress.

[Wally Dickerman]

Justin, when I referred to the circular head, I was referring to the one on the left in Roger's 4th pic - with the HSS cutter. The next one is a carbide cutter that I have used with mixed results. It can be really grabby. I blew up an ash form with it just the other day - my very first explosion!! I use the circular cutting head for most of my work. I like using the smaller cutters, and the flexibility of the circular head is nice.

I had not seen the scraper head - looks interesting, though!
John, the cutter you refer to is a Hunter tool. It shouldn't be grabby if used properly. Straight up it will definitely grab. It should be used tilted to about 30 to 45 degrees. Trial and error thing. To get the best results the side bevel should be rubbing so that it's a cutting tool. Takes a bit of practice but it can give a very smooth surface.

Wally

[David E Keller]

John, the cutter you refer to is a Hunter tool. It shouldn't be grabby if used properly. Straight up it will definitely grab. It should be used tilted to about 30 to 45 degrees. Trial and error thing. To get the best results the side bevel should be rubbing so that it's a cutting tool. Takes a bit of practice but it can give a very smooth surface.

Wally

Good point, Wally. The cutter is on a hex shaft in this application, so it's automatically set at 45 degrees unless you stick it in with the cutter facing straight up... Don't do that, Roger!

[Steve Schlumpf]

Roger - congrats on your new hollowing system! You are going to love using it! Sure is pretty!

[Roger Chandler]

Good point, Wally. The cutter is on a hex shaft in this application, so it's automatically set at 45 degrees unless you stick it in with the cutter facing straight up... Don't do that, Roger!

Thank you David........and Wally! When I have used my hunter carbide tools [I have both the straight and swan neck] I do hold them at an angle [the swan neck is already registered at about 40 degrees to the shaft] as the guy who sold them to me at WoodCraft in Roanoke,Va is also the president of the Virginia Woodturners Association, and is quite an accomplished turner in his own right, so I got good advice on that one, and it seems to carry to the Monster system as well.

[Roger Chandler]

Roger - congrats on your new hollowing system! You are going to love using it! Sure is pretty!

Steve, that "Grizzly green" is kinda growing on me a little...................:D

[John Keeton]

John, the cutter you refer to is a Hunter tool. It shouldn't be grabby if used properly. Straight up it will definitely grab. It should be used tilted to about 30 to 45 degrees. Trial and error thing. To get the best results the side bevel should be rubbing so that it's a cutting tool. Takes a bit of practice but it can give a very smooth surface.

WallyWally, as David noted, the tool can only be used flat or at a 45* angle, which is where I had mine set. I was moving very cautiously, with a light finishing cut when it grabbed. A vivid lesson for me, and quite surprising! Otherwise, I have found the Monster to be a fantastic tool. I do want to investigate the scraper tool, however. David, is that what you have?

[Roland Martin]

Congrats, Roger! I haven't been this jealous since I was in high school:D

[Faust M. Ruggiero]

Roger,
I have the hand held Monster system. I have all the same cutting tools you got but without the articulating system. Congratulations on your new tooling and I am sure you will love it. I am particularly happy you began this thread because it is helpful to hear John, David and Bernie talk about which cutting tips they like in what situations. I've been trying them all except for the carbide circular cutter. I did find the 3/16" bit to be easiest to use with the adjustable head. Perhaps we might have a discussion in another thread about the various cutter heads and cutters Randy supplies and where everyone with more experience than me finds them most useful.
faust

[Roger Chandler]

Steve Vaughn, Roland..........your day will come! Stay with it!

Faust, the idea of having a thread to discuss, and perhaps get someone to illustrate the particular head cutter they use and why, would be a good one for all the experienced Monster users to chime in on. I will start it, and maybe others will pick up on it...........we can hope they will give their perspective!

[Dale Bright]

Roger, others may do it differently, but I do the opposite of what you have stated. The smaller cutter will cut better, with less resistance, and less likelihood of a catch. On end grain, going straight in, and on the bottom, I do use the 1/4" cutter. But, on the outside, with a faster surface speed, I use the 1/4" for very light finishing cuts. I do not use the carbide tip anymore. I am sure it can be used successfully, but I don't know that I want to climb the learning curve.

John,

I am reading this to say that, you use the 1/4" cutter "On end grain, going straight in". On an end grain hollow form, I was taught to cut to the side so you are always cutting into side grain (moving the cutter from center to the left), a much easier cut and on a side grain form cut straight back, into the side grain (moving the cutter from front to the back) , for the same reason. I hope I am not making this too confusing and that I am understanding your technique correctly.

I too have ruined a piece using the carbide Hunter style cutter. I found that is is very grabby on any ridges left inside, so now I use a large flat scraper, similar to the Super Scraper, to smooth out any small ridges and then go to the carbide cutter for even smoother finish cuts.

Dale

[James Combs]

Justin, when I referred to the circular head, I was referring to the one on the left in Roger's 4th pic - with the HSS cutter. The next one is a carbide cutter that I have used with mixed results. It can be really grabby. I blew up an ash form with it just the other day - my very first explosion!! I use the circular cutting head for most of my work. I like using the smaller cutters, and the flexibility of the circular head is nice.

I had not seen the scraper head - looks interesting, though!

I can confirm that the carbide is very grabby. I though it was just the way I was trying to use it but it appears to be the nature of the beast. At any rate, like John I no longer try to use it.

[John Keeton]

John,

I am reading this to say that, you use the 1/4" cutter "On end grain, going straight in". On an end grain hollow form, I was taught to cut to the side so you are always cutting into side grain (moving the cutter from center to the left), a much easier cut and on a side grain form cut straight back, into the side grain (moving the cutter from front to the back) , for the same reason. I hope I am not making this too confusing and that I am understanding your technique correctly.DaleDale, just because I do it doesn't make it right!!!:o Most all of my HFs are actually turned in face grain, and I have begun drilling a 3/8" depth hole with a long, handled drill bit to use to begin hollowing, and to eliminate the bothersome nub in the center. I have found that I can use the 1/4" to open up the form regardless of grain orientation. But, maybe that is because I just haven't yet "had an event" with it!

[Dale Bright]

Dale, just because I do it doesn't make it right!!!:o Most all of my HFs are actually turned in face grain, and I have begun drilling a 3/8" depth hole with a long, handled drill bit to use to begin hollowing, and to eliminate the bothersome nub in the center. I have found that I can use the 1/4" to open up the form regardless of grain orientation. But, maybe that is because I just haven't yet "had an event" with it!

John,

Not to worry, I have had more than enough events for both of us. If most of your forms are face grain then going straight in is the best way to go, down hill, so to speak. A depth hole makes things so much easier.

What ever technique you are using is the right one. All one has to do is look at the beautiful forms you turn to see that.

Dale

[Jon Nuckles]

Roger,
I saw your newer thread about the Monster before this one and conveyed my congratulations there, but let me add them here as well. Thanks for asking the questions so we can all benefit from the answers. I just got in the queue for my monster, so it will be a while before I need the advice, but I will certainly be looking for it then. Can't wait to see what you "turn" out with the new toy.

[Michael James]

congrats..... have fun!
mj

[Baxter Smith]

Congratulations Roger! Can't say I am "green" with envy, more like mustard. I will be thinking of you the next time I poke a hole through the side.

[Roger Chandler]

Congratulations Roger! Can't say I am "green" with envy, more like mustard. I will be thinking of you the next time I poke a hole through the side.

Baxter,

Am I to understand you make the inside diameter larger than the outside diameter with a Monster rig, or do you do that by hand? :eek::rolleyes:;)

[Roger Chandler]

Roger,
I saw your newer thread about the Monster before this one and conveyed my congratulations there, but let me add them here as well. Thanks for asking the questions so we can all benefit from the answers. I just got in the queue for my monster, so it will be a while before I need the advice, but I will certainly be looking for it then. Can't wait to see what you "turn" out with the new toy.

Thanks a bunch Jon...........I appreciate your sentiments!

[John Keeton]

Baxter,

Am I to understand you make the inside diameter larger than the outside diameter with a Monster rig, or do you do that by hand? :eek::rolleyes:;)Roger, it gets really easy to do with the Monster if you don't tighten down that screw on that circular head!!!!;):o

[Baxter Smith]

Baxter,

Am I to understand you make the inside diameter larger than the outside diameter with a Monster rig, or do you do that by hand? :eek::rolleyes:;)

I manage to do it quite well by hand at a very reasonable cost.;):)

[Roger Chandler]

Roger, it gets really easy to do with the Monster if you don't tighten down that screw on that circular head!!!!;):o

I hear you loud and clear John..............thanks for the heads up !!!

[Roger Chandler]

I manage to do it quite well by hand at a very reasonable cost.;):)

Baxter, I thought I was the only one who made funnels that way...........:eek::o:rolleyes:

[Roger Chandler]

Congrats Roger. You are going to love it. Ditto what John said about the base at a 45* angle. Gives you a lot more wiggle room so to speak.

Thanks Bernie............chime in on the other thread on how you use your tips.........I can use all the information you guys are willing to give me!!!

[Peter Fabricius]

Congratulations Roger;

This has been a very interesting thread with lots of fantastic comments and advice.
I am picking up my custom Grey Monster next week, I can hardly wait. We are going to Massachucets (sp???) to ski and Randy is sending my unit to the hotel... Wow, what a great service. My Nova DVR XP is ready to go. Saves me extra shipping, customs fees etc.
Looking forward to seeing your first HF.
good luck with the new system.
Peter F.

[Roger Chandler]

Congratulations Roger;

This has been a very interesting thread with lots of fantastic comments and advice.
I am picking up my custom Grey Monster next week, I can hardly wait. We are going to Massachucets (sp???) to ski and Randy is sending my unit to the hotel... Wow, what a great service. My Nova DVR XP is ready to go. Saves me extra shipping, customs fees etc.
Looking forward to seeing your first HF. good luck with the new system.
Peter F.

Geez Peter,

A ski vacation and a monster rig all in the same week?!! Some guys just have too much fun! Enjoy them both..........I will be watching the forum for postings of your work with the "grey monster!"

[Bill Hensley]

In order to take advantage of the provided carbide cutter I had to grind a flat on the cutter shaft to get the cutter in the proper orientation. Works like a charm now. I will use the carbide cutter for preliminary cleanup and follow-up with light scraping for smoothing.

Prior to getting the Monster I used the Proforme tools. These tool shafts fit the Monster head and I use the Proforme scraper for final cleanup. I can set the scraper angled for shear scraping and it does a great job of cleaning, especially tear out. I also use the Proforme cutters in the Monster when I want to hog out a bowl or HF.

[Tony De Masi]

Congrats Roger. Looking forward to your new forms with it. Also remember to practice, practice, and practice. Then, you can teach me how to use it before I get mine.:D

[Harvey M. Taylor]

Who needs a high-dollar demonstrator to be flown in and demo for a few days when we have the folks at SMC to take pics and explain their methods? This has been a great big help to me in using my art. arm rig from Randy.Thanks to everybody. One day I will learn how to post pics. Max

[Roger Chandler]

Congrats Roger. Looking forward to your new forms with it. Also remember to practice, practice, and practice. Then, you can teach me how to use it before I get mine.:D

It would be my pleasure, Tony! ;)

[Roger Chandler]

Okay, now a question as to the outside of the form...........it seems I remember someone saying something about the outside of the form, using the Monster rig............I had always figured that the outside would be done with regular tools [bowl gouge, shear scraper, etc]

Do any of you guys that have the monster rig use it for the outside? I would think a swept back grind on a bowl gouge would be better, but I am open to ideas....:confused: