Need advice on router and router lift

[Steve Tanski]

Hi folks,
I own an RT1000SE router table. It is basically a copy of the Norm Abrams router table. Now I need to install a router and a router lift also. I've surfed around and checked out different brands of routers and lifts but I am more confused now than before...just because I know so little about these things. I was hoping someone could give me some advice on which router and router lift to get. I don't wish to spend a whole lot but would like to get something of quality. Is it reasonable to to get something good under, say, $400 (for both)? Thanks in advance

[phil harold]

this one has caught my eye
http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/orderstatus/html/smarthtml/pages/powerlift.html

[hank dekeyser]

I have survived for over 20 years without a "lift" Personally I don't "get it" Yes it would "be nice" but then again. Currently I have a Porter Cable 7519 that I replaced the stopp adjustment w/ threaded rod and made a replacement plate for where it mounts to the router. Add a piece of 1/2 x 1/2 square tubing w/ a nut welded in the end and a T- handle - Works like a champ. My other table I have several inserts for and just put a different router in each and leave them set-up for rails and stiles. Before I had more than one router I pretty much would just pull the router w/ the top insert attached, adjust it and put it back in. (or adjust it from below) I can afford the time to adjust easier than the $$ on a lift.

It comes down to how much you use the router table and how precise the set-up needs to be - The main thing to consider IMHO is which router to buy, and go from there. IF it will be in the table/lift allways, I would recommend the big P/C 7518 - you can pick up the router and a lift for less than $600 and never have to buy one again.
It really is pretty easy to modify the 7519 or the 690 w/plunge base for quick and easy "in table" adjustability.
After all this time I decided I dont "need" one but I would certainly "like" one

[Joe Scharle]

I pretty much agree with Hank, in that I never saw any use for a lift.
However, if MLCS ever makes their new power lift to fit a big Milwaukee, I'm in. Mainly because I could use the R/T in some ways like my Woodrat.

[Prashun Patel]

PeachTree has a good deal on a medium size Triton router. I also agree about getting on fine without a lift. I'd rather put the money into more bits.

[Bill Huber]

I have a lift and I love it, can't think if using my table without it now. It is just so nice to have a smooth adjustment. I started out without a lift and it worked ok, now that I have one I will never go back. Maybe it is something that is not needed and on a lot of the routers out there today they have above the table adjustments.
The new routers may be really good but the above table adjustment I had I just did not like, it worked but not as smooth and accurate as the lifts do IMHO.
The power lift looks neat but I just am not sure I would ever use it, I had a Wixey remote read out on my lift for awhile and have now taken it off, I found that I just did not use it or really need it.
I do agree that a lift is one of those things that you can really do without but again they are sure nice.

As to the lift to buy there are a bunch out there and I am sure most are all good ones. For me I have the Jessem, Mast-R-Lift II lift. I started out with the FX lift and my Bosch 1617 router and now I thought I wanted to get a larger router that would not work in the FX and bough the Mast-R-Lift II. I can not say enough about that lift, it is built to last and smooth as silk to adjust. There is no play on it what so ever and the back lash is very small on the adjustment rod. It is not the cheapest out there but it will hold just about all the routers made today.

Here is a write up I did on the II when I got it, great lift and I would buy it again.

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?149596-Jessem-Master-R-lift-II-%28long%29&highlight=Jessem+router+lift

[Prashun Patel]

Not to hijack, but do you use a collet extension, Bill? Depth of cut is sometimes an issue for me.

[Andrew Yang]

I have the Woodpecker setup, and have been happy with it so far. A local dealer has a large inventory of the PowerTek/Milwaukee motors from JessEm, so I'm using the Woodpecker table and lift with that. It's the same motor used in Milwaukee's largest plunge router, but the start/stop and speed control have been moved onto a separate control box that can then be mounted directly onto the table.

I know there were some quality control issues with the JessEm plates/lifts/tables, but it looks like they've sorted them out. That would just be a warning against any units that are marked down beyond belief. The old adage, if the deal looks too good to be true, it usually is. JessEm is actually located about an hour away from where I live, so it's nice to see they're getting themselves back on track. Unfortunately, my dealer decided to part ways after the bout of QC issues.

[Bill Huber]

Not to hijack, but do you use a collet extension, Bill? Depth of cut is sometimes an issue for me.

No, I don't know when I would.
I would think that it would all depend on the bit for the max depth of the cut. The router motor comes clear out the top so it would not effect the depth. I have had one case when I had to lower the router in the mount, I had a really tall bit for doing some patterns and was cutting 2, 3/4" boards at one time and could not get the bit lower enough.

[glenn bradley]

Let's see; both for under $400 . . . nope. You could get one of the routers that has the lift-like features built in and a good plate for under $400. They certainly aren't built like the proverbial tank the way lifts milled from solid billets are but, they are a very good compromise that was not available a few short years ago. Dad has the 2-1/4HP Triton and it does very well. That would be my suggested machine even though there are things about it that bother me. For the money saved, you can work around a few things.

Hank and Joe are the opposite of Bill and I in terms of whether one likes/needs lifts or not. A good lift is something you come to use as a tool unto itself. My entire method of approaching joinery is defferent than it would be if I were lift-less. Of course if I had never had one, I would have developed other methods.

I run a Milwaukee 5625 in a Woodpecker PRL.

[Van Huskey]

I am on the Bill/Glenn bandwagon, lifts are GOOD. My opinion though is if you can't swing the lift/motor now get one of the great deals running on either the mid-size or big Triton and use them in the table, they are the next best thing to a lift and a motor. Several different deals are listed in the Deals and Discounts forum, some places are selling out so you may need to make that decision fast. Though I am usually buy all the horsepower you can for a table I might suggest getting the mid-size if you plan to upgrade to a lift and motor later since the mid-size is a FAR better hand held router if/when you take it out of table duty.

[Burt Alcantara]

Woodcraft is still selling the Freud FT3000 for $199. This is a great deal for a 3 1/2 HP router. Install this router in your table and you wont need a lift. This is one of the best deals around. Once they clear inventory, that will be the end of this special.

[Larry Edgerton]

For $400 I would say the heck with a router and look for a used shaper. No comparison. You could probably buy a 1/2" grizzley for that with a collet adapter.

[Doug Colombo]

I also have the Woodpecker PRL lift / Bosch 1617 router and love them both. I used the router table without a lift for a few years and it worked fine, but once I got the lift, I don't think I would ever be without one. The $400 budget may not be enough to get both and be happy with your selection long term. With that said, if the budget is fixed, go for the most router you can and add the lift at a later date, if you find that you need (or just want) one.

[glenn bradley]

For $400 I would say the heck with a router and look for a used shaper. No comparison. You could probably buy a 1/2" grizzley for that with a collet adapter.

Without starting the great shaper / router table debate; shapers do a poor job of spinning router bits. Shapers are more powerful but turn slower as they are designed to use shaper cutters. A shaper is a fine tool but, get shaper cutters, not router bits. JMHO

[Neil Brooks]

I run a Milwaukee 5625 in a Woodpecker PRL.

Me, too.

And every single time I use it .... I just smile.

The 5625 can cut a Roman Ogee profile in the side of a '56 Chevy, and the PRL ... is so, so, SO smooth.

[Paul McGaha]

Glenn,

How do you like the performance of the Woodpecker PRL and the Milwaukee 5625?

I ordered that lift in January, It's supposed to deliver later this month.

I'll be buying a Milwaukee 5625 in the next few weeks.

From what I've read both items are highly regarded.

Woodpecker has the PRL priced at I think $199. Very sharp price on a proven lift.

PHM

[Van Huskey]

Glenn,

How do you like the performance of the Woodpecker PRL and the Milwaukee 5625?

I ordered that lift in January, It's supposed to deliver later this month.

I'll be buying a Milwaukee 5625 in the next few weeks.

From what I've read both items are highly regarded.

Woodpecker has the PRL priced at I think $199. Very sharp price on a proven lift.

PHM

Alas the PRL sale is over, in fact you can't buy it for any price on the site now. http://www.woodpeck.com/precisionrouterlift.html

[Larry Edgerton]

Without starting the great shaper / router table debate; shapers do a poor job of spinning router bits. Shapers are more powerful but turn slower as they are designed to use shaper cutters. A shaper is a fine tool but, get shaper cutters, not router bits. JMHO

This may well be true, don't know, never tried it. I have used a very good router table, with a 3 1/4 PC, and I do not feel that they are at all the way to go. For no more investment up front you can be in a shaper that is safer, does a better job and will last infinitely longer. Cutters cost more, but they too do a better job and last longer.

What I was trying to tell the man is that there is a better way, and the sooner you make the jump, the cheaper it is as you won't be wasting your money on routers and bits that were not meant to do the kind of work you are asking it.

[Alan Wright]

Just a small gripe. I ordered the PRL back in NOVEMBER and bought the 5625 to go in it. I received a note from Woodpecker that it would ship in January. Then I received an email that it would ship after Feb 22nd. I don't know about you, but when I order a tool, I usaully want it yesterday, not 3 months later. It's supposed to be good product, but I guess I'll have to wait to find out.

[Paul McGaha]

I'm in the same position as you Alan.

I deleted the email but as I recall it was about the same ship date as yours.

Not worried though. Woodpecker has a really good reputation.

I bought their phelonic router table also.

My fence is a Benchdog that was gifted to me by a creeker (Thanks Don).

PHM

[Van Huskey]

This may well be true, don't know, never tried it. I have used a very good router table, with a 3 1/4 PC, and I do not feel that they are at all the way to go. For no more investment up front you can be in a shaper that is safer, does a better job and will last infinitely longer. Cutters cost more, but they too do a better job and last longer.

What I was trying to tell the man is that there is a better way, and the sooner you make the jump, the cheaper it is as you won't be wasting your money on routers and bits that were not meant to do the kind of work you are asking it.

I disagree, shapers and router tables are apples and oranges. A decent shaper is also a lot more upfront. I think everyone should have both! :)

[Alan Wright]

As for the need for a router lift.... I typically don't need one to make adjustments for a normal router bit. However, I have two lock mitre bits that really need to be dialed in with minute adjustments. Every time I unlock the upside down router. make a minor adjustment then lock it back in, then run another couple test strips... I realize the router moved when I unlocked and locked the router. I'm looking forward to trying the lock miter bit in a router lift with precision adjustments
Alan

[scott vroom]

We have the Woodpeck PRL-V2 lift and PC 7518 router (combined about $650 w/shipping, maybe $600 when on sale). We're doing a lot of carcass & rail/stile joinery on the router table and find the lift to be a big time saver on setups/changeovers.