Cutting a Countertop

[Larry Frank]

I have a 12 foot long countertop that needs to be trimmed about 6 inches. Does anyone have suggestions about how to make the best cut.

I have always used a circular saw but have to make to cuts - one for the counter and the other for the back splash portion. I worry about making the two cuts come together exactly. I know people do this all of the time and there must be a good way of doing this.

[Jesse Tutterrow]

I never had any luck with this. I finally settled on calling local stores and finding out who does their custom countertop cutting and then contacting them. I can usually get anything cut for around 20 per cut.

[David Thompson 27577]

I guess it depends on what the countertop is made of. But if its laminate on particle board, I'd use a circular saw. I'd cut the main portion first, from the underside. Then I'd use that kerf to start the cut in the backsplash, again from the back side. Use a good sharp blade that's meant for laminates to get the best edge.

[Bob Riefer]

I actually have a similar question.. I purchased a 2' x 8' butcher block counter. I will be cutting it directly in half so that i can glue it up into a 4' x 4' square. In my mind, it would go like this: straight edge on each side of the cut line so the circular saw cannot wander at all, good blade in circ saw, masking tape the cut line and score the cut line with a knife, go for it. It just seems like even with a sled, this would be a cumbersome/dangerous piece to try on a table saw.

[Dave Gaul]

Wow! Just saw this done on "Ask This Old House" on DIYnetwork last night! Maybe check their webpage for a video?

[David Weaver]

This is what I would do (make one cut and then use it to start the other. If you're not confident you'll be able to do that, you could cut the backsplash just a bit fat on the cut line and block plane it flush. You're going to cap the end, right?

When I worked in a cabinet shop, anything we had like that went through a huge radial arm saw setup and was cut in one shot. I've seen several other setups like that, and would guess that's the standard method of doing it.

[Larry Edgerton]

Sounds like you have a postformed top?

I cut them with my OMGA RAS now, but in the past I cut them with a skillsaw with a cutting guide. I cut them upside down so the teeth were entering on the formica side, no chips, and then moved my saw guide to the back of the backsplash to cut the last bit. My homemade cutoff guides are cut with the skilsaw itself, so I just had to line up the edge of the guide with the first cut and keep it square. Touch it with a hard sanding block and it was ready to go.

[phil harold]

For preformed Laminate counter tops
I do it with a skillsaw or jigsaw from the backside
always cut a little big and then scribe and beltsand if end is butting a wall

for and endcap you can plane or file straight
router can also be used for triming

taking it back to the laminate shop for triming is always an option and the best option if it is for a seam
they can add the pockets for the dogbones too

but fabricating on site can be faster

[Jamie Buxton]

We're talking postformed formica-over-particleboard, right? If so, put the counter down on sawhorses, upside down. Cut the bottom with a circular saw and a straightedge, supporting the offcut so it doesn't fall. Set the circular saw as deep as it goes. Then cut the remainder of the backsplash with a ryoba. A ryoba is a japanese hand saw. You can snug it up to cut exactly flush to one side of the circular saw kerf. The ryoba is much easier to aim than a circular saw on a vertical surface.

[Bill White]

You'll be time and money ahead if ya take it to a top shop and let 'em cut it on the beam saw. Won't take 'em 5 minutes, and the cut (s) will be as they should be. Remember, sometimes wisdom takes the place of bravery.
Bill

[hank dekeyser]

The number one "best" method (best results at least" is to have the top shop cut it down for you on their top saw. After 1000 or so top jobs I have had to cut ALOT of tops on site.
There are 2 methods dpending on if it will be a finished end (capped) or if it butts to a cabinet.

Method 1 is to simply cut the top from the bottom w/ a skil saw (straight-edge is optional) then go back w/ the belt sander (from the top) to clean it up or straighten it out
Method 2 is to put masking tape on the top then mark the line (on the tape) then take a straight edge and SHARP utility knife and score / cut the laminate on the line, you don't need to cut all the way through the laminate. (this helps to prevent chip out from the saw) I like to remove the tape on the waste side of the cut to help me see the line better. You don't need to get right up to the line because the next step is to belt sand up to the line.

Both methods work well , the 2nd is mostly for when it is impossible to flip the top and cut from the bottom. I use the masking tape when scribing backsplashes also since most colors it is very hard to see your pencil line on.
I have cut more tops on-site than I can remember and never had the need for a straight edge. Since you need to remove 6" you can make a couple test cuts to gain confidence in doing it. IF you have to cut off less than say 3/4" be careful and score/cut the laminate THEN cut from bottom if space permits. The closer to the edge you cut the more likely chip out on the laminate.

Don't try this with a framing blade - go with at least a 24 tooth or more (thin kerf preferred) You might be amazed at how much "trim work" you can actually do w/ a skilsaw (and a sharp blade)

[David Prince]

Put the countertop upside down. Set up a straight edge and cut with a circular saw with carbide teeth. Start at the front edge and cut towards the back and when you get to the back, just continue over the edge and down to finish off the backsplash. Piece of cake!