Need suggestions on matching hard maple to soft maple

[Cliff Polubinsky]

I'm beginning the second version of a Paschal candle stand for some Benedictine nuns. This is the second edition since after I built the first one I figured out better ways to make it so the first one immediately became the full size prototype for the sisters to use until I could finish the "final" one.

The stand is to match the existing design of the other items in their chapel - altar, ambo (a lecturn or pulpit), side table, etc., which I believe are made from soft maple.

181814

Unfortunately to make some of the parts I need 8/4 stock and around here I can get that in hard maple, not soft. As you would expect, the hard maple is much paler than the existing pieces.

Would anyone have suggestions on ways to come up with a closer match to the light browns of the existing pieces? This would need to end in a satin finish.

Thanks for any suggestions. While it's not essential to the project, I'd like to match the pieces for the sisters if I can.

Cliff

[Dave Gaul]

One method I can think of is to use Shellac. Mix from flakes, you could come up with a tone for the hard maple that may get it close to the soft maple color. I'm thinking some orange flakes with some garnet flakes would possibly work for the hard maple, and then blonde shellac on the soft maple. Then you can top coat with the satin finish.

There are some great finish experts around SMC, maybe a mod can move this to the Finishing forum?

[Chip Lindley]

+1 on orange shellac. This will give a warm tone, a couple of shades darker than raw hard maple.

If that shading is not agreeable, a wash coat of oil-based stain (like MinWax) thinned with mineral spirits, will allow you to build up a patina with several applications. This approach is entirely trial and error. Remember that a satin clear coat of shellac, lacquer or varnish over the stain will darken it just a bit more. Best of Luck!

[Stephen Cherry]

I'll vote for zinsser sealcoat (dewaxed shelack) with the a little of the transtint dye of the closest color to the final color. Then you could use a color wheel to figure where to go from there. I've got a handful of colors, and it's fun to adjust the colors. It's best to start with strait sealcoat for a couple of coats in case the color does not work out. Denature alcohol takes it all off.

[John Coloccia]

+1 to what everyone else said. My immediate first thought was blending some shellac. Like Stephen, I would personally put down at least a light coat of 1lb cut blonde shellac, or some thinned sealcoat (I don't know this for a fact, but my guess is Sealcoat is somewhere around a 2lb cut). Even orange shellac with no additional tint can blotch some. I french polish with a blend of blonde, orange and amber shellac, but start with thinned blonde to prevent blotching.

[Brett Robson]

All good advise on the finishing techniques - I have nothing to add in that respect. But if you would rather use soft maple, Niagara Lumber sells 8/4 for $5.25/bf shipped (Based on what Google tells me your zip code may be)

https://www.niagaralumber.com/order/hardwood.php