GLOAT- now I need info

[Paul Steiner]

Yesterday on CL I picked up this woodmaster 408, $50. The gentleman I got it from had been using it for planing, I would like to use it as a molder and I need some info about using it as a molder. I googled and googled and I did not find much, I need SMCers input.
It has a 1hp motor but I will switching it out with a 2hp 3 phase motor. It runs well but needs a litttle tuning, it vibrates a bit and the chain that raises and lowers the table could be tightened. It has 2 molding heads that hold 1" molding knives, they are identical to the knives that come with the old craftsman molding cutters, fortunately I have a set. I would like to run wider knives, 2"-3". I am wondering what knives I can use, jet, grizzly, etc? Can I use the molding heads side by side to hold a large knife or should use the planers cutter head, or do I need a retro fit head like grizzly holding cutter?
Also I am wondering what this machine is compatible with. It looks like there are craftsman, belsaw, RBIs, and woodmasters that are the same or similiar.
I would like to use make door and window casing, base cap, chair rail, and maybe crown molding, but primarily in pine. Any info would be greatly appreciated.181498181499181500
http://www.sawmillcreek.org/images/misc/pencil.png

[Neil Brooks]

Nice score !!! Three bucks will get you ... what looks like ... the original owner's manual, from eBay, item # 280623485838

[David Nelson1]

go to www.moldingknives.com (http://www.moldingknives.com/)and download the profile catalog and on page 76 it shows how to set up to run TG. I have 612 and called Woodmaster for a few parts they don't support the older models, but will answer the basic question you might have. No owners manual ! If there is one on Flea bay don't mess around get it. I'm looking for the site that I found that has a few of the bigger replacement accs. like the Aux shaft and knives. BTW the molder blades that you have will work fine in the molding head. There is also a much larger accs. that will fit complete profiles knives.

[David Nelson1]

I'll check my work computer for the website.

[Joe Von Kaenel]

Paul,

I would also check with Woodmaster http://woodmastertools.com/. Your planer looks very similar to my Woodmaster 712. Blades and knives are probably similar. I can use Molding blades from My brother in laws Woodmaster he bought back in the 1980s. They are good machines and don't change design much. If it works well no need to change. Hope this helps. Their tol free number is 800-821-6651

Joe

[Paul Steiner]

Good news, I do have a manual, literature, and the receipt from the original owner. I looked over everything and I need a 402-C custom knife molding head181638181639
Here are pics of the manual. Now I just have to figure out where to get one. David if you could find that site that would be awesome I would give you a forum high five. Joe I am calling woodmaster right now.

[David Nelson1]

I'll be back to work tomorrow and I'll look

[johnny means]

Did you say FIFTY?:eek::eek::eek::eek::eek:

If so, you suck.

[Chip Lindley]

I found an RBI 408 for $250 years ago and was barely able to unload it for less than $100. so YOU SUCK! Big Time!

The moulding shaft is 1" dia. with a keyway slot the length of it. The moulding knife holders you need, slide over and afix to that shaft with a key and setscrew. The 8" planer head has single gibs the length of the knife slot. Single knives cannot be held in this planer head as they are in the 12" BelSaw, RBI, Woodmaster heads, because those have sectional gibs. Use only the moulding shaft and head for holding any molding knives you acquire! Best of luck finding parts!

Those Sears moulding cutters are not made for your machine. The slot cut into one side means less surface to clamp against in the cutterhead. Use them at your own risk!

[Neal Clayton]

i use the newer bigger version of that planer for moldings.

you can use the planer head, you just need different sized weights to fit in the planer head properly. if you call woodmaster they should be able to help you with those.

i never used the molding head much on mine, i find the straight knife planer head much more stable.

you'll need to cut yourself some simple guides to act like a fence that you can bolt through the table. a board walking along the rollers outside of the knife could be...well...exciting ;).

get yourself some ear plugs if you don't use them currently. cutting molding on an open machine like this is LOUD (really loud).

[Paul Steiner]

More good news. I found a seller on ebay that has the molding head and I am purchasing it. It takes 1/4" knives with a weighted gibb and woodmaster, hawk, or WDR can get me those. The manual for this machine is really good it talks about the molding head setup and fences. If any wants a copy let me know.
One of my rollers is a little chewed up otherwise in good condition, anyone know where to get a replacement? Or any tricks to rejuvanate the rubber? I read on another forum about people wrapping them in duct tape. I do not think I am there yet.
Anyone see any problems with running a link belt from the motor? I need to cut down the vibration.

[Gary Max]

Have you tried getting parts from Woodmaster----- I have a 718 and they have always been real good to me.

[David Nelson1]

I saw that auction as well. What I didn't see is any mention of a 612 or 408 parts on my work computer. The good news is it was moldingknives.com that had the parts before hand. I tried to call a few times today and never got through. I'll try again tomorrow.

[Chip Lindley]

A Fenner Power Twist belt certainly won't hurt anything. But, these little machines vibrate because they are made mostly of stamped metal and are on the light side. Make a 3/4" plywood base a bit larger than the 408's footprint and bolt that base to the bottom of the legs. Casters can be added for mobility. Load that shelf with as much weight as you can. A big slab of 1"-thick steel would help!

[David Nelson1]

More good news. I found a seller on ebay that has the molding head and I am purchasing it. It takes 1/4" knives with a weighted gibb and woodmaster, hawk, or WDR can get me those. The manual for this machine is really good it talks about the molding head setup and fences. If any wants a copy let me know.
One of my rollers is a little chewed up otherwise in good condition, anyone know where to get a replacement? Or any tricks to rejuvanate the rubber? I read on another forum about people wrapping them in duct tape. I do not think I am there yet.
Anyone see any problems with running a link belt from the motor? I need to cut down the vibration.


Did you get the aux. shaft with it???

[Homer Faucett]

Have you tried getting parts from Woodmaster----- I have a 718 and they have always been real good to me.

I have a Woodmaster 612, and they didn't want to give me the time of day when I called about parts support and an owner's manual. It seems that anything that they aren't currently manufacturing, they don't care to help you with.

Paul, you have done well in getting the owner's manual, and realizing that there are several manufacturers that made what is, essentially, a Belsaw planer/molder. From that, you can pretty much get what you need by going to Hawk, Belsaw, or the aftermarket custom knife grinders as long as you make sure you know your thicknesses and sizes.

By the way, my 612 came with a 5 hp motor--probably overkill, but 2hp might be a little light if you're running it on a static converter. Somewhere on the Internet is a thread started by a guy who tuned up his Belsaw to reduce the vibration--a link belt and a motor mount on either rubber feet and/or a hinge is what I recall as his solution. I've never had much issue with chatter on mine, so haven't looked into it. However, mine weighs about 350 lbs. It is loud to use, though, with all that sheet metal, but it beats the pants off of trying to use a router or shaper to make crown molding en masse!

[Steve Jenkins]

I bought a 12" woodmaster years ago to use exclusively for molding. I asked abut the molding heads and was told that using the planer head is much more vibration-free. I bought gib stock from woodmaster and cut the lengths I need for the size knife I'm using. Youcan either run one knife with counter weights in the other two slots or three knives. I typically use 3 knives.

[Paul Steiner]

I have a second shaft with nothing on it 1" with 1/4" key. Now I am a little confused I thought the 408 could not run knives on the planer head. But I have read to use the planerhead with counter weights or 3 knives or are those SMCer's confusing my machine with a newer model?
The so called old timer from woodmaster called me back and left a voicemail. I am going to call him tomorrow and pick is brain.
My 3 phase is service, so I do not have to worry about a static converter or anything like that. Most of what I am planning on cutting is pine, all my doors need new casing, I will be doing base and shoe when I do my floors. Then chair rail and possibly crown. I think my 2hp can handle the pine. I appreciate the advice for vibration reduction.

[Paul Steiner]

I talked to the expert from woodmaster and an expert from WDR sales. Basically I found out that I can run 1 knife in the planer head and 2 weights or 3 knives. Both experts said running 3 knives produces better results. Woodmaster USA said they do not make gibb stock for that so they can not get me knives and gibbs, but Woodmaster Canada can get me knives and gibbs. WDR sales said to use the planer gibbs and 1/8" molding knives. WDR makes jet and grizz knives that are 1/8". So after hearing all this I decided to cancel my order for the 1 knife molder head and save my money to purchase 3 knives of whatever profile I want. What do you all think?

[Neal Clayton]

i agree, that's the best way to go.

the planer head is more stable than the smaller shaft that the molding head fits on.

i don't bother with 3 knives, i find that one knife cuts smooth enough for me, but i don't typically run hardwoods, mostly softwoods, so that might make a difference.

for pine, typically wide open, heat draws sap which makes for rougher cuts, the faster you can feed it the better.