I need some breaker box advice please.

[Joseph D'Orazio]

I have a big metal building next door that I warehouse janitor equipment in from our family company that we shut down. Its bigger than the house sitting in front of it. Someone stripped the wires and breaker box out of it long ago. I've decided to move the janitor stuff out and the wood shop in. I now have a 220 volt UniSaw and an 8 inch jointer that is 220 as well. They are both single phase. I dont know if I can get 3 phase service out here or not but what I have is 1 phase anyway. I intend on getting a planer, wide belt sander, and other equipment that is probably going to require 220 as well. I want to buy as much of the electrical equipment as I can so I can save on the cost.

I was looking at Lowes website at breaker boxes and noticed a big selection. I really dont know which on to purchase was hoping to get some advice here.

[Brad Gobble]

what is nice is that you are largely unconstrained ... Pick a medium sized panel, prob 200A service, one main breaker, 20 or so spaces for breakers. Remember that 220 takes two slots, and many of us dedicate a single tool per 220 circuit. Logically segregate your needs - one for lights, one for 110 each wall (20A), one for drop outlets, etc ... Half of your panel will be 220 for big stuff.

Have you done electrical before? While it is very straightforward and there are lots of resources the best advice i can give is get a permit and quiz the inspector's ear off! I passed with flying colors and look at the two trips out he made as two tutoring sessions by a master electrician that cost me $120.

Oh, and those "code check" laminated guides are awesome ... inspector even liked 'em, and their guidance was dead on.

[George Bregar]

Not sure if you need a main or sub panel or not but Siemens makes a good one...lots of room for wiring, good ratio of neutral/ground to circuit, and a solid copper bus which is better. They can be used either as a main or sub by leaving or removing a bus bar. Main breaker is good even if it's used as a sub because you can cut power locally rather than back at the main. Easy to bond the panel...they have a screw that ties the panel to ground. You can use either flat or torx drivers on the buses. Wire out the top or bottom. I would go with a full size breaker like mine versus the half sizes...the latter just get cramped when wring in branch circuits. All the big box stores carry the breakers. I did all the wiring in my detached three car that I turned into a dedicated shop...don't skimp on a panel, they're the cheapest part of the job, a good one with the characteristics I described makes life easier when wiring (for you or an electrician), and allows for easier passage at inspection (a neat panel gives an inspector confidence). Here's my 100A...nice and neat.
181516

[Joseph D'Orazio]

what is nice is that you are largely unconstrained ... Pick a medium sized panel, prob 200A service, one main breaker, 20 or so spaces for breakers. Remember that 220 takes two slots, and many of us dedicate a single tool per 220 circuit. Logically segregate your needs - one for lights, one for 110 each wall (20A), one for drop outlets, etc ... Half of your panel will be 220 for big stuff.

Have you done electrical before? While it is very straightforward and there are lots of resources the best advice i can give is get a permit and quiz the inspector's ear off! I passed with flying colors and look at the two trips out he made as two tutoring sessions by a master electrician that cost me $120.

Oh, and those "code check" laminated guides are awesome ... inspector even liked 'em, and their guidance was dead on.The most "wiring" I have done is 110 volts and that is usually something simple and not related to the breaker box. I am in the county so I will have to figure out who to call on Monday. I will be joining you with the dedicated breaker per tool thingy.

Not sure if you need a main or sub panel or not but Siemens makes a good one...lots of room for wiring, good ratio of neutral/ground to circuit, and a solid copper bus which is better. They can be used either as a main or sub by leaving or removing a bus bar. Main breaker is good even if it's used as a sub because you can cut power locally rather than back at the main. Easy to bond the panel...they have a screw that ties the panel to ground. You can use either flat or torx drivers on the buses. Wire out the top or bottom. I would go with a full size breaker like mine versus the half sizes...the latter just get cramped when wring in branch circuits. All the big box stores carry the breakers. I did all the wiring in my detached three car that I turned into a dedicated shop...don't skimp on a panel, they're the cheapest part of the job, a good one with the characteristics I described makes life easier when wiring (for you or an electrician), and allows for easier passage at inspection (a neat panel gives an inspector confidence). Here's my 100A...nice and neat.
Do you mean this one?

Link to 200 amp Siemens panel at Lowes home center (http://www.lowes.com/pd_12553-1318-G4040B1200CU_4294821907_4294937087_?productId=1008 205&Ns=p_product_prd_lis_ord_nbr%7C0%7C%7Cp_product_qu antity_sold%7C1&pl=1&currentURL=%2Fpl_Load%2BCenters_4294821907_4294937 087_%3FNs%3Dp_product_prd_lis_ord_nbr%7C0%7C%7Cp_p roduct_quantity_sold%7C1%26page%3D1)←click
I hope the outside link is ok.

[George Bregar]

Mine was a 20/20 100A but yep, good panel. And wiring a panel is really easy (as is 220V). A good book is http://www.amazon.com/Wiring-House-Pros-Rex-Cauldwell/dp/1561585270. It not only gives you what to do but tips on how to do it...the author has a "beyond code" tips. I did all the wiring including the panel, as well as installing the meter socket and wiring it to the panel. Wiring yourself will save lots more than just buying the materials.

[Joseph D'Orazio]

Mine was a 20/20 100A but yep, good panel. And wiring a panel is really easy (as is 220V). A good book is http://www.amazon.com/Wiring-House-Pros-Rex-Cauldwell/dp/1561585270. It not only gives you what to do but tips on how to do it...the author has a "beyond code" tips. I did all the wiring including the panel, as well as installing the meter socket and wiring it to the panel. Wiring yourself will save lots more than just buying the materials.
Thank You so much. I am a library person, I will probably head to the library and see what they got for electrical books. Iffin they aint got it I will push the buy button on that book you listed.

[Norman Hitt]

Do it only once. Square D, "QO" Series, Panel box with 30 Slots, (not the home series because the Breakers are not as heavy duty). I bought the 20 slot box but quickly discovered I would run out of slots before I installed it, so went back and got a 30 slot main panel box.

[Gary Redden]

Do it only once. Square D, "Q" Series, Panel box with 30 Slots, (not the home series because the Breakers are not as heavy duty). I bought the 20 slot box but quickly discovered I would run out of slots before I installed it, so went back and got a 30 slot main panel box.

I second the recommendation on Square D "QO" series and a large panel. It is a whole lot eaiser to go bigger now then having to either add a subpanel or swapping the whole box later.

Gary

[Brad Gobble]

agreedv on go big.

220 is just two 110's, nothing to it.

Get the book mentioned, get code check tips, and get an inspection -

[Steve Jenkins]

If you are planning on getting a widebelt sander you might be in need of 3phase power and if you don't have the planer yet I'd look at 3 phase for it too. When I set up my new shop behind my house I set a single phase panel then beside it a 3 phase panel and powered the 3 phase panel with a rotary phase convertor. I needed to because most of my machinery was 3 phase.

[Joseph D'Orazio]

I see that some boxes come with more circuits than they do spaces. I guess I dont get it, what is that all about?

[Jay Runde]

they make some breakers that are 2 circuits per space.

[Norman Hitt]

they make some breakers that are 2 circuits per space.

Those breakers however are generally for light duty 110/120 V circuit applications, and don't work for 220 volt circuits because they require input from two different legs and the ckt breaker must be gang switched so both legs will trip should there be a problem on either leg of the 220/240 V ckt. (if I explained it properly).:)

[Joseph D'Orazio]

Those breakers however are generally for light duty 110/120 V circuit applications, and don't work for 220 volt circuits because they require input from two different legs and the ckt breaker must be gang switched so both legs will trip should there be a problem on either leg of the 220/240 V ckt. (if I explained it properly).:)
Thank You.

[Gary Redden]

I see that some boxes come with more circuits than they do spaces. I guess I dont get it, what is that all about?

That is because some load centers can use tandum breakers.

[Joe Angrisani]

Just as a head's up: There is a pretty extensive recall on Seimen's breakers made this summer. The recall is based on date codes, but it affects many of our favorite flavors: 15A single (120V), 20A single, 20A dual pole (240V), 30A dual pole, and many others right up to 200A Main breakers.

[Mike Desch]

Hi Joe;

A lot of boxes show how many breaker spaces are available, but the circuits number can be greater, cuz you can put a tandem (two circuits in one breaker) in most of the slots. A lot of panels will talk about 20 spaces and 40 circuits. However, this only works for 110V stuff. each 220V breaker will require two wholes breaker spaces.

A 20 space panel will hold only 10 220V breakers, but can contain a whole bunch of 110V circuits (up to 40--in some boxes-- if only tandem 110V breakers were used).

Usually, you end up with a combination of both (or also including single 110V breakers that chew one whole slot). A 20-space breaker boxes gives you lots of flexibility in wiring up a shop.

[Joseph D'Orazio]

Thank Yall for the information. I did wind up getting a GE 40 circuit 40 slot service entrance rated box. Now I just need to talk a local spark master into coming and telling me what else I need to get. I bought a bunch of safety switches for the 220 equipment too.