RAS Blade

[Tony Bilello]

I just bought an early 1980's Radial Arm Saw.
The previous owner gave me a new 12" steel blade. He normally kept a 10" carbide blade on it that is interchangeable with his table saw. I would like a new carbide 12".
What blade would you guys recommend for general purpose which would normally be cross-cutting and some mitering in both plywood and hardwood.
I dont feel like looking in 100 page catalogs for rake and hook and stuff like that. I like Freud and will settle for a Delta blade since this will not be used that often.
So, is there a particular model of Freud or Delta that I should be looking for? Something that can be found on a shelf?
I am willing to pay $100 to $150.
I have a "tool store" about 15 minutes away and am in driving distance of Rockler and Woodcraft although I don't want to drive an hour each way to get there, so if I had to, I will probably order it.
Thanks in advance.

[Van Huskey]

I just bought an early 1980's Radial Arm Saw.
The previous owner gave me a new 12" steel blade. He normally kept a 10" carbide blade on it that is interchangeable with his table saw. I would like a new carbide 12".
What blade would you guys recommend for general purpose which would normally be cross-cutting and some mitering in both plywood and hardwood.
I dont feel like looking in 100 page catalogs for rake and hook and stuff like that. I like Freud and will settle for a Delta blade since this will not be used that often.
So, is there a particular model of Freud or Delta that I should be looking for? Something that can be found on a shelf?
I am willing to pay $100 to $150.
I have a "tool store" about 15 minutes away and am in driving distance of Rockler and Woodcraft although I don't want to drive an hour each way to get there, so if I had to, I will probably order it.
Thanks in advance.

I am also a fan of Freud Industrial line blades but when it comes to the SCMS or RAS I go for the Forrest Chopmaster. Freud doesn't have a full kerf blade I like on a RAS (their LU91 is a TK). It is near your upper budget limit but it is one blade I definitely think is worth the premium. I think there may be a Rockler 20% off code still in effect, I can't remember if they restrict Forrest blades but I don't think so.

[david brum]

+1 on the Chopmaster. I recently got one for my RAS. It leaves bona fide splinter-free cuts, top and bottom, on veneered plywood.

[Neil Brooks]

Agreed.

Either the Chopmaster OR the "special" blade that Forrest makes specifically for the RAS.

It's a particular configuration of their venerable Woodworker I.

My understanding is (and I just went through this myself) that you can only order THAT blade by speaking directly with Charles Bazikian AT Forrest -- a very knowledgeable and decent guy.

The gurus of RAS (on a Delphi RAS forum*) recommend you also buy a stiffener. I got the 4" Forrest stiffener, to allow maximum depth of cut.

Mine's on its way :)

*http://people[dot]delphiforums[dot]com/snotzalot/sawdust/faq.htm

[David Winer]

I just bought an early 1980's Radial Arm Saw.
The previous owner gave me a new 12" steel blade. He normally kept a 10" carbide blade on it that is interchangeable with his table saw.
You will need to ascertain the arbor size before ordering a new 12 inch blade. My ancient Craftsman 12" uses a 5/8" arbor. I have yet to find this size arbor for a 12" blade in stores, but they can be found through internet search. The conventional wisdom is to specify a special hook angle for a radial arm saw--I can't advise which angle is correct,but I understand that it is low or negative. The proper angle helps to keep the blade from "climbing" in the cut.

[Van Huskey]

You will need to ascertain the arbor size before ordering a new 12 inch blade. My ancient Craftsman 12" uses a 5/8" arbor. I have yet to find this size arbor for a 12" blade in stores, but they can be found through internet search. The conventional wisdom is to specify a special hook angle for a radial arm saw--I can't advise which angle is correct,but I understand that it is low or negative. The proper angle helps to keep the blade from "climbing" in the cut.

Forrest carries both 5/8 and 1" arbor sizes in 12" Chopmaster blades as a stock item, but you are correct you probably won't be able to find 5/8" in most local stores.

[Neal Clayton]

Agreed.

Either the Chopmaster OR the "special" blade that Forrest makes specifically for the RAS.

It's a particular configuration of their venerable Woodworker I.

My understanding is (and I just went through this myself) that you can only order THAT blade by speaking directly with Charles Bazikian AT Forrest -- a very knowledgeable and decent guy.

The gurus of RAS (on a Delphi RAS forum*) recommend you also buy a stiffener. I got the 4" Forrest stiffener, to allow maximum depth of cut.

Mine's on its way :)

*http://people[dot]delphiforums[dot]com/snotzalot/sawdust/faq.htm

i agree on the use of a collar, i use a modified table saw collar. about the size of a PM66 blade collar, only difference is it's aluminum, from lee valley iirc, about 10 bucks. arbor size didn't match so i just went to the local machine shop and had them open it up for me. as with any old machine, there will be corrosion at points, if there's any around the arbor, there will be wobble. any amount of imperfection on these RASs around arbor with their large blades is exaggerated due to the blade size. a simple table saw blade collar fixes those issues 99% of the time.

as for the chopmaster blades, that's what i use on my old unipoint.

the collar will limit your depth of cut a bit, but i can still cut a 3" rough board on mine with the lee valley collar.

[Mike Schuch]

I am a big fan of the Freud Ultimate cut off blades. I have two 15" and one 16" Ultimate Cut off blades. I have never tried the Forrest but I have never felt a need to... the Freuds give me practically a glass smooth cut every time.

[Steve Schoene]

You say you don't want to delve into catalogs to search out rake or hook angles. BUT, however you pick a blade it still is IMPORTANT that it end up with a zero or slightly negative rake angle. This is a serious safety issue. Otherwise the blade can self feed, scary in any case, and for light weight RASs even damaging to the machine. Risk of injury rised dramatically when things get out of control.

[Van Huskey]

Just be aware that the Ultimate cutoff blade is a 10 degree POSITIVE hook blade, not uber aggressive but aggressive none the less.

[Tony Bilello]

I did some work at the shop today and finished early. I told wifey that I was going to unload the saw from the P/U truck by myself. I got the usual "you gotts be kidding" look. Anyway, I told her where to stand in case I got in trouble and needed help. Like a 5'-4" thin 71 year old woman is gonna be a lot of help to a short fat old man. Anyway, 5 minutes later it was unloaded and temporarily put aside and we went to have a late lunch and then headed home.
I remembered to get the model name "DeWalt 790 12" Contractors Powershop" but forgot to look at the arbor size.

Also a giant THANKS for the info.

[Van Huskey]

I did some work at the shop today and finished early. I told wifey that I was going to unload the saw from the P/U truck by myself. I got the usual "you gotts be kidding" look. Anyway, I told her where to stand in case I got in trouble and needed help. Like a 5'-4" thin 71 year old woman is gonna be a lot of help to a short fat old man. Anyway, 5 minutes later it was unloaded and temporarily put aside and we went to have a late lunch and then headed home.
I remembered to get the model name "DeWalt 790 12" Contractors Powershop" but forgot to look at the arbor size.

Also a giant THANKS for the info.

Glad you are safe! Now time for a gloat thread with pics!

[scott spencer]

Tony - Whatever you end up with should have a low to negative hook angle to prevent climb and self feeding...nothing much over 5° or so. I'd also suggest sticking with a full kerf blade for a 12" span....there'll be less chance of deflection, and your motor should have no trouble spinning a full kerf crosscut blade.

Local choices might be limited, but ya never know. The Chopmaster is always a great choice, but I'd also take a good look a the Infinity 012-190 (http://www.infinitytools.com/Miter-Saw-Blades/products/1201/)on sale for ~ $100....it's very similar to the Chopmaster. Quality and performance have been outstanding on every Infinity blade or bit I've tried so far.

[Peter Quinn]

I got a blade from Wolfe machinery made by Popular, who I've never heard of otherwise, that is made for the ras. Mine is a 14"', and the machine has collars it's own that came with the saw. Anyway, that blade works great, no self feeding, and the cuts ate pretty fine too. You'ld have to call Wolfe, they have a web site but it's info only, no store that I am aware of for blade sales. Another nice thing about the blades from Wolfe is they are quiet. Big blades tend to whine speeding up and slowing down, sometimes in use too. But these have some noise canceling reliefs in them I was told specific for the ras, and its a darn quiet blade relative to some I've heard.

[Van Huskey]

Another one that I thought of that is a great blade (Peter's quiet comments reminded me) is the Tenryu Miter-Pro plus.

[Chris Barnett]

If you are not in a hurry, check Amazon; bought my 10 WWII for Griz 1023 and 12 inch for my RAS at decent prices [10" for $77 and think the 12" was around there (otherwise would not have bought since I rarely use the RAS now)]

[scott spencer]

If you are not in a hurry, check Amazon; bought my 10 WWII for Griz 1023 and 12 inch for my RAS at decent prices [10" for $77 and think the 12" was around there (otherwise would not have bought since I rarely use the RAS now)]

A WWII is great for TS, but the 20° hook is too steep for RAS/SCMS.

[Bill ThompsonNM]

A couple comments and a question. I have a Freud LU91 on my RAS.. and I really do like it. No self feeding and it makes really nice cuts. I think I will look into the Lee Valley blade support.. but the cuts don't seem to show any sign of any vibration or deflection by the blade. Perhaps when it isn't quite as sharp....

Before the Freud I spent big bucks and bought a Systimatic with negative hook angle, etc for RAS. The blade cuts great.. but unfortunately when it spins up it sounds like a prop-jet coming in for a landing or takeoff. Everyone within 100 yards probably needs hearing protection. It doesn't seem to vibrate -- but I've wondered about the large stress/heat relief slots on the blade. I'm considering filling them with something as a test. Any one have any suggestions?