Small miter box for trim

[Tim Phllips]

Hi Guys,

Wondering if anyone could point me in a direction for a small miter box used pretty much just for trim. Lugging my 12" delta around is getting old, when I just have trim to do i'd like a small accurate miter box that is a lot smaller/lighter to carry around to jobs or even around the house. I know just doing it by hand would work, but i'd still prefer a power.

Of course I also don't want to spend a ton just for the convenience either though. 7 1/4 the smallest that makes sense? Saw a small Ryobi at HD, but have no experience with any of their stuff or if it would be good enough for what I want.

Any thoughts?

Thanks!

[Neil Bosdet]

Find something used in your local buy and sell. Like a 8 1/2" makita slider. Something light.

[Rich Engelhardt]

Saw a small Ryobi at HD, but have no experience with any of their stuff or if it would be good enough for what I want.
I have:
- Ryobi 10" CMS - non-slider $99 - I paid $59 for it on a Black Friday sale
- Delta 8 1/2" - non-slider - I paid $79 for it years ago.
- Workforce 8 1/2" slider - I paid $79 for on a Black Friday sale
- DeWalt 10" non-slider - $219 just about everwhere - I got a deal on it from Amazon two years ago for $179
Combined, the fisrt three cost as much as the DeWalt.
All 4 work well, with of course the DeWalt being the best of the bunch.

Yes - all of them are more than capable of being accurate enough for trim.
Yes - you will need to upgrade the supplied blade to something better.
Yes- 8 1/2" blades are difficult to find in the local stores & when I do find them, the selection is extremely limited & they are fairly expensive for what you get. Personally, I'd avoid an 8 1/2" saw based on blade availablity alone if it's going to be a job site saw.

Now - the bad:
Only the DeWalt is reliable when it comes to holding it's settings.
All three of the others require constant adjustment to stay true.

From a weight standpoint - ie" portablility - the small Delta wins hands down. It's my "go to" miter saw whenever I need a saw to travel for some unexpected work that I may need a saw of this type for. It's footprint is smaller than a 7 1/4" circular saw & even if it's not "dialed in" exactly, it's more than ample as a substitute fro framing type work.

The 8 1/2" Workforce slider is unweildy & heavy. It only goes for a ride when I expect something beyond what the 10" Ryobi can handle.

The Ryobi has the easiest blade change of any of the saws. If I plan on doing a mix of "fine" and "rough work, it's my go-to for that reason alone.
The position of the motor on the Ryobi limits the height of what can go under the right side of the saw. I have and swear by a Benchdog crown molding jig, which, sadly won't fit the Ryobi.

Re: tuning the cheapies.
They need it every time you move them for site to site. You need to check blade to fence true frequently during use. You can't go by the markings for the correct angle, you need to use a protractor. Since I have both a Starrett Prosite (the good aluminum one, not the cheaper plastic one) and a digital protractor & since corners are never true when it comes to trim, that's not a biggie to me at all. it's become such an ingrained habit, I do the same when i use the DeWalt - which is spot on.

Also - you'll need to make sure you have the proper tools along to adjust the true of the fence. I use a pair of Swanson Speed Squares which I check against my Starrett. I don't use them for anything else. A small container of blue Locktite. An allen wrench or assortment. A small pair of needle nose vice grips helps give a bit of extra leverage to the allen wrench to loosen the nuts.

HTH.

P.S. I've been considering the 7.25" saw very strongly if & when the Ryobi or the Delta go to their final reward. Only because blades for the 8 1/2" are so miserable to locate.

P.P.S. - A good stand is also required. One that has ample in feed and outfeed support & gets the material up to where you can do a good job of cutting it. I'd even be so bold as to say that any of my cheapies, w/a good blade, properly setup and tuned, on a good solid stand, and each cut measured are the equal of a Kapex.
The obvious advantage of the $1300.00 saw would be that it requires little if any screwing around with & can probably give a perfect cut sitting on the ground w/a couple of brisks supporting the material being cut.

[Tim Phllips]

Thank you so much for all the information you posted. Greatly appreciated!


I found craftsman also has a cheapy 7 1/4 that I might take a look at and just get that or the Ryob. For what I need it for any cheapy that tune each time i'm sure will be good enough. Both under 90 I think without a coupon.

Craftsman also has a 7 1/4 slider that give a little more capability on cuts. Not sure if ts worth double the price for what I need though. Or if that would make it less accurate also.
http://www.craftsman.com/shc/s/p_10155_12602_00921194000P

Cheapy nonslider:
http://www.craftsman.com/shc/s/p_10155_12602_00921180000P?keyword=miter&prdNo=7

I wish for once i'd just pick something instead of going back and forth something that isn't even that critical :)

Thanks again!

[Rich Engelhardt]

I got burned on a Craftsman 10" CMS a few years ago & the Ryobi 10" came to the rescue and finished the house remodel, so, I'm a bit prejudiced against Craftsman.
I will say though that the cheap sliders do have a tendancy to wander around a lot at full extension.
I had a 10" GMC once that, while ok, wasn't all that great at full extension.
Same goes for my 8 1/2" slider.
I believe I'd stick with a non-slider.

[Don Alexander]

buy the 10" DeWalt and save yourself alot of headaches messing around to get a decent cut surely your time is more than worth the price difference