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View Full Version : Restored 24" Centuaro (Minimax) Bandsaw



john lawson
02-03-2011, 8:35 PM
For anyone who may be interested, I took pictures today of my 1984 Centauro CO
600 24" that I restored. I still need to put the fence on the table (it needed
one more coat of paint).

I started by disassembling the complete machine and stripping the paint. I was
able to get the original color, or very close, from Sherwin Williams. The
machine itself had quite a bit of rust so I wire brushed it, bought some
phosphoric acid and went over the whole body of the machine, wire brushed it
again, then primed it with an acid wash primer. It was a PITA process so I hope
it works as far as preventing any of the rust from reocurring. I then sprayed on
two coats of enamel.

I used EVAPORUST to take off most of the rust from the bare iron and steel
parts. If you have never used this product it is great. It works well and is
not toxic. I made a couple of containers that fit specific parts then lined the
container with plastic; dumped in the evaporust and left them for a week. After
I dried them I used an angle grinder with a wire brush to clean them up. I used
it on the top, the blade guard, and all the bolts and nuts etc.

The lower door latch was missing so I made one out of maple, painted it black
and then put in a cabinet latch. It now works better than the top door with the
original latch. I also had to make an insert for the saw blade.

I only have single phase power and thought long and hard before deciding to
keep the original three phase motor. I had an electrician friend check it out
with a meter and he said it looked ok to him. So, I bought a 3hp inverter vfd
from Dealers Industrial Equipment for $184.00 plus shipping.

http://dealerselectric.com/item.asp?PID=737

That saved me from having to hassle with a new frame motor, pulley and belts.
In addition the new drive gives me deceleration motor braking that is
adjustable. So far so good, it runs great.

The wheels are well balanced and the bearings look good so I left them as is.

One part was broken on the original Carter Precision Guides, and Carter wanted
$70 (they would only sell a set of parts) so I was able to fabricate the part
out of aluminum instead of the original zinc die casting, but it should work
fine where it is located. The bearings were shot in both guides and I was able
to knock them out so that will be a quick fix as soon as they arrive. These
guides are new to me and seem finicky to adjust so I will wait and use them for
awhile before deciding whether to keep them (my last saw was a Laguna with the
ceramic guides and I really like them).

After painting I added a set of Great Lakes Leveling Casters. They are really nice, much cheaper than Zambuss (may not be as good)

I fired it up today and it ran great. The factory setting on the brake was 5
seconds and there is so much inertia it caused the vfd to overload, so I set it
to 15 seconds and it works great! I have only the old rusty 1/2" blade that came with it and
I am waiting on some new ones to arrive. So, when the new bearing and blades
arrive I should be good to go.

Thanks for looking and let me know if you have any questions.

Van Huskey
02-03-2011, 8:49 PM
Great job on a "almost" old woodworking machine! Should be an excellent worker!

john lawson
02-03-2011, 8:56 PM
Here are a few more pics

Stephen Cherry
02-03-2011, 10:27 PM
Looks great!!

How long does it take for the wheels to spin down on stop? Have you thought about using a braking resistor on the drive?

Van Huskey
02-03-2011, 10:45 PM
Definitely consider a braking resistor, the one for a 3hp FM50 is about $30.

johnny means
02-03-2011, 11:34 PM
Funny, I have exactly the same saw with exactly the same casters. I almost feel like I should go check my shop:D.

Mike Cruz
02-03-2011, 11:51 PM
John, the FM50 isn't "dust proof". Not sure what NEMA rating you need for "dust proof", but the FM50 doesn't have that rating. You might want to relocate that VFD to mount onto the wall, or somewhere out of the immediate dust path.

But I have to say, that BS looks brand spanking new! VERY nice job on the refinish. Just don't use it. Any scratch will create tears... I haven't let anything NEAR my PM90... :)

J.R. Rutter
02-04-2011, 12:35 AM
Very nice work. That is a great looking saw, "sculpturally" and mechanically.

Dave MacArthur
02-04-2011, 4:21 AM
beautiful, great job!

Jeremy Derr
02-04-2011, 2:27 PM
Great looking saw. I just got a SCMI S-600. How did you do the wiring for your VFD ? Do you push the switch and then actually start the saw with the vfd ? I was going to use a static converter for mine but after reading the fourms I am thinking I should go with a VFD.

David Warkentin
02-04-2011, 5:42 PM
That saw looks a lot like my aggazani. Are they related?

john lawson
02-04-2011, 7:00 PM
Thanks for the replies and the kind words. This is my first "restoration", and may be my last. It sure took a lot of time; then again maybe I will be faster when I start on the Parks Planer.....................

The wiring is straightforward, 230 single phase into the Allen Bradley, then 230 single phase out of the switch into the the VFD, L1 and L2. The VFD converts it to 230 three phase and that goes out to the motor. If it runs backwards, switch one of the leads and it goes forward. I push the on switch to the Allen Bradley every morning when I tension the blade and turn it off at night when I leave. I then use the VFD to run or stop the bandsaw during the day.

Someone asked how long it took to brake. The factory default setting is 5 seconds, and that caused the VFD to go into a fault, voltage overload. So I reset it for 15 seconds and it works fine, no faults.

Which begs the question, why do I need, or why do you recommend a braking resistor? I am a non electrical type so I am unsure if using the deceleration will cause a problem down the road. Please tell me more.

As for the enclosure, your right, I need to do something about the sawdust, there is more around the VFD than I thought I would see. Thinking about cobbling a plastic shroud to go over the intake and filter the air. The fan is on the bottom and that should be OK. I would rather not move it off the machine as I do move the machine around occasionally.

The saw itself is made by Centauro, and Centauro makes saws for Minimax. It virtually the same; not related to Agazzami (but I have been told that all the good Italian bandsaws are made within 20 miles of Modena, Italy, so there has to be some cross-breeding or incest somewhere in there).

thanks

john

Neil Brooks
02-04-2011, 7:42 PM
Just .... beautiful.

Sal Kurban
03-29-2011, 10:56 AM
Great job restoring an old workhorse. I have few questions regarding a similar saw I just am acquiring: it is a SCMI SC600. It needs lower tire, and guides. I also need to convert it from 3 PH to a single phase. I might as well upgrade to 5 hp motor. Any recommendations? Carter guides? Are aftermarket parts readily available? Are Grizzly motors any good fit?
Thanks for any input,
Sal.

john lawson
03-29-2011, 6:00 PM
Sal:

Thanks, I am using the saw regularly now and it looks like all the work was worth it, the saw works very well.

Congratulations on your "new saw", my guess is that it's just like mine with a different label.

Recommendations; since you are buying a new motor make sure you get the correct rotation, or reversible, the correct rpm, and the shaft size, otherwise you may be buying a new pulley. Also check the frame size of the new motor so you know it will mount. I would not be afraid of buying a Grizzly motor. But I would check Craigslist and Ebay. You can buy motors much cheaper there. Also there is a guy on Ebay that sells brand new motors with switches that he pulls off new machines, mostly jet, that he gets from the Amish. If you can get the right motor this is a great deal.

On the guides, my first choice would be the Laguna ceramic, call them and ask, I believe they have the complete setup for your saw. I have the Carter Micro Precision Zephyr guides on mine as the original and they work well, a little finicky to set up but they work well. If you call or email Carter they are very responsive and a really class company.

Aftermarket parts; I have emailed Minimax and SCMI and have yet to get a response to repeated requests on old parts. I did talk to one guy but they just don't answer emails, and are not real helpful on parts requests (would make me a little nervous on a new machine). That said, most of the parts you need are available from Iturra, Laguna, Carter, etc.

Good luck and post something when you get started.

john

Joe Jensen
03-30-2011, 1:08 AM
John, the FM50 isn't "dust proof". Not sure what NEMA rating you need for "dust proof", but the FM50 doesn't have that rating. You might want to relocate that VFD to mount onto the wall, or somewhere out of the immediate dust path.

But I have to say, that BS looks brand spanking new! VERY nice job on the refinish. Just don't use it. Any scratch will create tears... I haven't let anything NEAR my PM90... :)

I have an FM50 in a dust proof chassis, it's a NEMA4 chassis. Over double the cost...joe

Rick Fisher
04-03-2011, 11:17 PM
Congrats on the rebuild.. it looks great..

I love these threads because I did the same thing.. I can attest to how much work it is.. especially the cleaning.. and scraping.. and .. did I mention the cleaning..

Mine is a few years newer.. Still late 80's..

http://i335.photobucket.com/albums/m455/jokerbird_photo/SCM%20Bandsaw/P1010472.jpg


This was it almost finished.. a couple of years ago..

I would suggest getting the logo done at a sign shop.. email them a picture of the logo.. pay the $20.00 or $30.00 .. Mine is peel and stick letters, but only I know. .

Well.. until now.. lol

Andy Guss
01-24-2019, 2:32 PM
John,

I have a very similar saw, Centauro CO 600 from 198X. The exact year was not specified on my ID plate, they just left it blank. When I first moved this machine home, I removed the table. When I went to put it back on, I was surprised at the way the bolts and trunnion holes matched up. It seems that they used lock nuts mid shaft on the threaded parts of the bolt to set the depth, not driving the bolts home all the way to the head like on every other bandsaw I have used. Do you know or remember if there is some trick to getting this all aligned and set up properly?

Thank you,

Andy

john lawson
01-24-2019, 6:30 PM
Patience, lots of patience. It took me at least a couple of hours to get there. It's been quite a while since I did that so I can't give you a lot of specifics. I do recall having to sometimes snug a bolt up and guess about how much more I needed to go.

Mike Kees
01-24-2019, 8:02 PM
Hi John, this thread is very interesting to me because I just purchased this same saw. Mine is a 1984.All green. I was wondering what you did for the blade insert ?

Tom Bain
01-24-2019, 9:29 PM
Great job on the restoration.