End Table Pics

[Doug Shepard]

OK. I was able to lay my hands on a few more digital pics (most are currently stuck on the hard drive of a machine midway thru a motherboard lobotomy). This is one of the square ones that goes along with the halfmoon beast on the first thread I started.
http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=15693

This one is also made of cherry, Corian, and paduak inlay. The joinery is a "double-mitered, dovetail-keyed, mortise and tenon joint" design that I picked up from a Ralph Demercado article in FWW (Issue #132), although by this time (last of 3 square tables), I had abandoned the mortise and tenon aspect of the joint and vastly simplified it. The tenon was a small stub that was subject to short grain breakage and didn't really add any strength to the joint. So by this 3rd table I suppose it could be called a "double-mitered, sliding dovetail joint". The joints are a bit of a challenge to make, but the really cool thing about them is that you almost don't need glue or clamps to put the table together. You can dry fit and dis-assemble all day long if need be.

[Ted Shrader]

Doug -

Very nice! Great job on the wood/grain selection on the top frame of the table. The padauk inlay really adds dimension to the top frame, too.

Well Done!

Ted

[Corvin Alstot]

Great job, love the lattice wood base.
Well done!

[Jim Becker]

Outstanding! The joinery is supurb, and that curl in the cherry "divine"!! :D

[Ken Fitzgerald]

Doug......WOW! I love the joinery and the wood!

[Jason Tuinstra]

Doug, I've been away for quite awhile, but I'm glad I made it back in time to see this table. Wow!!! You did a great job on that. The figured cherry looks beautiful and is used perfectly on this table. Your attention to detail is first class. Very, very nice.

[Doug Shepard]

Thanks a lot guys. I got real lucky on the cherry for the top. The figure wasn't really apparent so the local hardwood supplier had it priced as just generic cherry. I wan't too sure, but thought there might be something going on with the board so I grabbed it. The figure didn't really pop out until I'd made 2 or 3 planer passes.

[John Miliunas]

Outstanding, Doug! :D The joinery is dead-on and I'd say your wood score was worthy of a "gloat"! Very well done. Another homerun from Doug's shop, IMHO!:) :cool:

[Dave Avery]

Wouldn't change a thing, Doug. Great design, superb craftsmanship...... you really did right by that cherry. Dave.

[Mark Riegsecker]

Always appreciate the pics but what about the finish used.

[Philip Duffy]

Beautiful work! Does the corian piece lift free to be cleaned? Phil

[Keith Christopher]

...I had abandoned the mortise and tenon aspect of the joint and vastly simplified it. The tenon was a small stub that was subject to short grain breakage and didn't really add any strength to the joint.
I'm needing help on this one, if you're subject to short grain breakage don't you simply change the orientation of the grain for the joint ? Maybe I'm not understanding the joint.

The tables look incredible! awesome job, and the cherry figure is outta sight. I'm gonna have to look and try to make that joint sometime. thanks for sharing !

[Jerry Olexa]

Doug Beautiful work. Love the inlay, your choice of materials and the design! Great job!! Thanks for posting...

[Mark Singer]

Beautiful...great details!

[Doug Shepard]

Always appreciate the pics but what about the finish used.The finish is boiled linseed oil, then a couple thin coats of superblond shellac, then 3 or 4 coats of Minwax Wipe-On poly (1/2 & 1/2 mix of Gloss & satin), then rubbed out with automotive rubbing compound.



Beautiful work! Does the corian piece lift free to be cleaned? PhilIf need be I can lift it out. I put a strip of doublestick carpet table all around the bottom of the rabbet that the Corian sits on. So it's not exactly loose, but it can be taken out with light pressure from underneath.



I'm needing help on this one, if you're subject to short grain breakage don't you simply change the orientation of the grain for the joint ? Maybe I'm not understanding the joint.
The tables look incredible! awesome job, and the cherry figure is outta sight. I'm gonna have to look and try to make that joint sometime. thanks for sharing !This one's not real easy to explain unless you look at the original FWW article that I got the joint from. There's a sliding dovetail slot on the back of the apron piece and the dovetail key is cut on the top of the leg. The original joint leaves a stub tenon on the apron that projects down behind the face miter, and the mortise for it has to be cut out on the outer side of the dovetail key on the leg. The mortise is a bit of a PITA since you can't really get to it with any power tools. They all got to be put in with chisels and it's a real confined area to even get into. I ended up with 3 tables. I did the first 2 at the same time exactly like the article and during dry fits discovered that the stub had a tendency to break off. So when I did this 3rd table I just omitted the M&T portion. I reasoned that if it was liable to break, it really wasn't contributing much to the strength of the joint. You can't really change the orientation of that part. Well I guess you could, but the dovetail slots orientation would have to change with it. Instead of the DT slot running across the apron grain, it would run with the grain and you'd need a 20-some inch wide board (or glue-up) to get the needed length of the apron pieces.
Told you this wasn't an easy explanation. If you see the article I think it will be clear.

[Doug Shepard]

I finally found where I'd stashed the FWW issue and scanned it in. Ignore the response I gave to Keith C. above. A picture is worth a thousand words. The M&T I eliminated is the little stub tenon that goes into the mortise labelled on the second pic.

[Keith Christopher]

Hmmm I see now. I think the tenon is there for alignment perhaps ? I would imagine if you used a loose tenon and oriented the grain differently you would be golden.