Using paper joints

[Keith E Byrd]

As a newby I keep seeing and hearing things with no experience to evaluate.
Does anyone have experience turning blanks attached to a block glued with a paper joint?

[Norm Zax]

If the piece being worked on isnt too big, this works nicely and easy to remove later on. In any case it is preferable to nudge the piece from the tail's side as well for extra safety. If you go ahead and glue with no paper the strength goes up and removal is not very difficult if done properly.
For large pieces (read "heavy" as it has to do with diameter AND length) I'd skip the method in favour of faceplates or tenon+chuck.
Finally, the occasion where this method is an almost must is for reverse turning (can't recall the proper name now. was that inside out turning?) where you glue four pieces, turn, un-glue, flip over and finally glue back and turn some more.

[Keith E Byrd]

How would you remove it "properly"?

[Doug Wolf]

Here is a 22" x 5/8" platter I used paper and glue block because it was so thin. I used thick brown paper grocery bag and titebond. Let it sit for 3 days to make sure it was dry. Removed it with a stiff putty knife. It was light weight so it worked with the paper. I've had paper joints fail when the piece was heavy and/or off balance.
180923 180922 180921

[Keith E Byrd]

Have you used hot glue?

[Chris Fournier]

Paper joints are very useful but do require some caution given that they are intended to come apart rather easily. I use this type of joint when I am making a spindle turning that I will want to later split in half. For small diameter spindles say less than 3" in diameter made up of two laminated pieces I glue it up, chuck it and turn. For larger coopered work I glue up the coopered blank and then reinforce the ends with wooden plates that are then screwed into the coopered cylinder. On a couple of these larger coopered turnings with pretty thick cross-sections you could see the paper joint opening in places - more likely from drying forces than cutting forces but opening up nonetheless.

[Prashun Patel]

OT question:

Is such a paper joint best smoked with the lathe on or off?

[bob svoboda]

OT question:

Is such a paper joint best smoked with the lathe on or off?
You should never operate a lathe after doing that! :D

[Bob Hamilton]

In most cases there would be no reason to use a paper joint for mounting to a faceplate glue block. You would just part off at the glue line and reverse the piece on a jam chuck or friction drive with tail stock support to clean up the bottom, just the way you do to remove a chucking tenon or recess. The paper joint is most useful for split turnings like inside/outside ornaments or halved or quartered spindles to be used as moldings.

Take care
Bob

[Norm Zax]

Support by tail until very last moment -> remove most of tenon by turning tool -> the final bit is ground off with a high speed carver or a chisel and then sanded.

[Keith E Byrd]

I think I agree - except I have some ash that is 2 in thick and wanted to make shallow bowls - the screws from the faceplate will extend too far and prevent me from getting as deep as possible. I think it being only 2 in would prevent me from turnring a tenon and getting the max depth on the bowl.

[Bob Hamilton]

My point was that there was no reason to use paper in the glue joint, just glue the blank to the waste block which is screwed to the face plate. When you are finished with that mounting you just part it off right along the waste side of the glue block, then reverse it on a jam chuck or friction drive with tailstock support to clean up the bottom. You don't lose any of the thickness.

Bob

[Keith E Byrd]

Bob - I got it! I just posted a small ash bowl doing this but I used hot glue instead- ready to turn in 15 minutes.
Can't believe how much I have to learn! I have been a hobby woodworker for 15 years or more and finding out that turning is another world! I think some have referred to it as the vortex? I think I'm caught!

[Ryan Baker]

Paper joints are really useful at times. I have done that a bunch of times and never had a failure. It's stronger than you would think -- just don't get a bad catch. I usually split mine with a wood chisel. Get the split started right down the center of the paper and it will pop right apart. It's not an everyday technique, but is a handy thing to have in your bag of tricks.