Plane advice: What size and type do I need for my project?

[Jay Maiers]

I think I've picked my first semi-neander project. I'd like to do a small table for our foyer. It's going to be a pretty simple affair: loosely based on craftsman styling, four legs (slightly tapered), a drawer and a top. Very similar in style to an end table, just a little bit taller and a bit less depth. I'm estimating the size of the top at 28ish by 12-14ish. It'll probably be built with white oak.

I'm planning on doing the majority of the stock sizing and shaping with power tools, and then use hand tools to finish the work. What type of plane(s) and / or other tools will I need to properly complete this job?

FWIW, I've done a bit of reading and have made an educated guess. I'd just like to see if I'm right. :)


Thanks,
Jay

PS: The design is nowhere near complete. It's barely more than an idea in my head at this point. I have no idea where the proportions will lead me, or if it will work (visually) at all. This project is as much of an exercise in planning as it is a piece of furniture.

[Johnny Kleso]

No.5 or maybe a No.6 should work for you just fine..

I like Type 14s to 15s everyone agrees that Type 10s to 15-16s are the very best Stanley made
But dont pass up a cherry type 18 for a rust bucket type what ever for the cherry..

[John Sanford]

Are you going to be using mortise and tenon joints? If so, a shoulder plane would be really handy for fitting the joints, but won't do much, if any, duty on the prepping for finish side of the project. Other than that, a block plane, and either a #4 smoother or a #5 jackplane. The jackplane would be most useful if you're going to be tapering the legs with a plane, otherwise, the #4 is probably better suited for the finish prep.

[Jay Maiers]

No.5 or maybe a No.6 should work for you just fine..

I like Type 14s to 15s everyone agrees that Type 10s to 15-16s are the very best Stanley made
But dont pass up a cherry type 18 for a rust bucket type what ever for the cherry..

A friend of mine has loaned me a 5c that's in pretty good shape. The blade is not as sharp as it could be, but I can fix that. Beyond that I own a block plane (recently purcased from another forum member) and some moderate quality chisels.




Are you going to be using mortise and tenon joints? If so, a shoulder plane would be really handy for fitting the joints, but won't do much, if any, duty on the prepping for finish side of the project. Other than that, a block plane, and either a #4 smoother or a #5 jackplane. The jackplane would be most useful if you're going to be tapering the legs with a plane, otherwise, the #4 is probably better suited for the finish prep.

Mortise and tenon joints are probably what I will use. They will be machine cut, but I can see how a shoulder plane would be useful if (when) my machining skills are off.
The leg taper will (likely) be cut on the TS. I don't think I have the skills to do it by hand. Yet. :) I would like to smooth them out by hand though. I'd considered a #4, but I'm concerned that I will scoop out the center of the leg. A #5 sounds a little safer in this case, but what do I know? If the #4 is a better choice for the top, maybe I'll pick one up and give it a try on the legs.

[Erik France]

Might try to pick up a 5 1/4 if you can locate one. The length is in between a #4 and #5, but a bit narrower.

I like my #3 for smoothing.

[Mike Siemsen]

If your lumber is flat from the machines all you would need is a smoother, #3 or #4. If you plan on breaking the edges a block plane would be nice.
Mike

[John A. Callaway]

the super smoother .... the 5 1/2 .

[Rick Erickson]

Gotta agree with Mike. Sounds like you are doing most of the work with machines (including the joinery). A smoother is all you really need (you already have a block plane). Of course this all depends on the quality of your power tools. I owned a table saw once that turned every rip cut into a banana. In that case pick up a No. 7 or 8 to flatten the boards before smoothing.