Some pocket hole questions

[Jay Jeffery]

I've got a few questions regarding pocket hole joinery that hasn't been answered by the sales literature I've found online. Sure, it's a great system, but I have yet to see anyone address any functional limitations (besides those who don't take metal fasteners seriously).

1) How many times can a pocket screw be removed for disassembly and then reassembled? If none, does anyone drill extra pocket holes anticipating a reassemble?

2) The only time I've seen a but joint where there were pocket holes on both boards has been in picture frame miters. All other times it seems that the pocket holes are only on one side of the joint. Would it be stronger to put pocket holes in both boards, or would that be a bad idea?

3) Similarly when making a corner joint (such as an a cabinet carcase) is there any advantage to putting screws in both sides of the wood? With nails, it is common to try and put nails in at opposite angels to improve strength. Can this be extrapolated into the screw domain?

4) When assembling wood of different thicknesses in corner joints do you set the jig for the size receiving the hole and select the screw length based on the other board's thickness?

5) When working with hard and soft woods, do you select the diameter of the screw based on the wood that isn't drilled?

6) Is there a better source for the pocket screws than buying the Kreg packages at your local store? By better I of course mean less expensive without significantly sacrificing quality.

[Glenn Vaughn]

6) Is there a better source for the pocket screws than buying the Kreg packages at your local store? By better I of course mean less expensive without significantly sacrificing quality.

I have purchased from Sommerfeld's very good quality right now $13.90 for 500. http://www.sommerfeldtools.com/

[hank dekeyser]

I've been using pocket screws for lots of stuff for awhile now. neat system. sometimes I'll clamp the piece w/ the hole on a strip of laminate or similar to allow the screw to "suck it up tight" without misaligning the 2 parts.

1: screw and unscrew until the wood lets go. If the screw hole wont take a screw anymore fill it w/ a sliver of wood and some glue (easy on the glue)
2:in theory the joint will be stronger due to the increased shear rating of 2 screws vs. 1
3:see #2
4:set the jig for the wood you are drilling, use a longer screw as room permits
5:screw size / pitch is determined by the wood receiving the screw - fine for hard, coarse for soft
6:I buy 'em by the 500 or 1000 pack - don't remember where I last bought them

Being that most times the joint is being glued, the screws are there to hold while the glue sets. If structural integrity is questionable, use more screws or a diffenet method.

Hope this helps

[Jim Rimmer]

#6 - McFeely's

[Jay Jeffery]

Thanks for the responses.

Does anyone in the Dallas Ft Worth Metroplex know of a good place to buy pocket hole screws locally?

That Sommerfeld site seems to have a pretty good deal, though.

[Steve Griffin]

1) Just like any wood screw, multiple attachments are usually no problem unless you strip the threads.

2)Screws work best with the pocket roughly in line with the grain. Going perpendicular to grain is far weaker, as the wood can break along the grain. If you are that concerned about strength for a particular situation, then consider using other joinery methods (Mortise and tenon, dovetail, biscuits etc.).

5) More important is to use fine threads for hard wood, and coarse for softwood.

[Jay Jeffery]

One more question,

7) When is a pan head more appropriate than a washer head?

[Thomas love]

Jay,

Try Brazos lumber in Grand Prairie off Great South West parkway or on the same road there is Lewis and Company.

tom

[Joe Scharle]

I've got a few questions regarding pocket hole joinery that hasn't been answered by the sales literature I've found online. Sure, it's a great system, but I have yet to see anyone address any functional limitations (besides those who don't take metal fasteners seriously).

1) How many times can a pocket screw be removed for disassembly and then reassembled? If none, does anyone drill extra pocket holes anticipating a reassemble?
In hardwood and with care not to over-torque the thread socket...many times. In softwood, maybe 2-3 times because the fibers will crumble. I find a 9" square drive (McFeely's) perfect for most hand loosening/tightening. Keeps my knuckles away from the workpieces and I can feel the torque when re-tightening.

2) The only time I've seen a but joint where there were pocket holes on both boards has been in picture frame miters. All other times it seems that the pocket holes are only on one side of the joint. Would it be stronger to put pocket holes in both boards, or would that be a bad idea?The objective is to put the screw threads into the LONG grain of at least ONE of the pieces.

3) Similarly when making a corner joint (such as an a cabinet carcase) is there any advantage to putting screws in both sides of the wood? With nails, it is common to try and put nails in at opposite angels to improve strength. Can this be extrapolated into the screw domain? With a butt joint, it would most likely weaken the joint because one set of screws could graze and split, but more likely miss the surface of the receiver piece.

4) When assembling wood of different thicknesses in corner joints do you set the jig for the size receiving the hole and select the screw length based on the other board's thickness?The booklet that is included with the Master Kit is straight forward in explaining how to set bit depth and hole guide heights. Also, on-line.

5) When working with hard and soft woods, do you select the diameter of the screw based on the wood that isn't drilled? NO. To a certain extent, screw size (6 or 8) is important in some dense hardwoods, but coarse / fine thread is the primary criteria.

6) Is there a better source for the pocket screws than buying the Kreg packages at your local store? By better I of course mean less expensive without significantly sacrificing quality. I buy Kreg or McFeely.

Kreg's site is well worth spending a little time. Good luck.

[Mark Blatter]

When I was building cabinets for a living, we bought most of our supplies at Louis & Company. They had about the best prices and pretty good service. I don't know how they handle selling to hobbiests or one-man shops though.

As Steve said above, if strength is a real issue, use a different type of joint.

[John A. Callaway]

as far as question # 2 goes, I glued up walnut panels for a tool cabinet build. I alternated sides with the pocketholes all the way down each butt joint. I think the glue ups were about 35 inches long, and I did four holes on one board and three on the other.... after glue up and clamping to drill screws, The panels were as solid as a single piece. I inserted plugs, cut and sanded flush, and went on to lay out dovetails.

If I encounter another long glue up, I will use the same set up again. It is the only reason I bought the Kreg Jr. kit.