brace handle repair

[Mike Holbrook]

I see a good many nice old braces with small cracks in the handles. I am wondering if there is a good method for repairing or replacing brace handles?

I though about sawing into the crack with a Dremel to make enough of a crack to hold glue, wood putty or something. I have seen some substance mentioned on these pages for filling voids in wood but can not remember what it is called. I am getting very interested in restoring old tools and need to improve my bag of tricks.

[Jim Koepke]

Mike,

Some people mention using CA glue, also known as Super Glue to stop cracks and checking. I have used Boiled Linseed Oil on old wood. It often causes wood to swell and close up the cracks. Not sure how it interacts with CA glue.

Another trick to fill cracks is to use clear epoxy and mix in some saw dust from the same wood. Make it just a hair proud and then sand to blend it in.

To replace the handle, I think it would be necessary to make a two piece handle and then glue it in place.

jtk

[john brenton]

Although I've never actually taken one apart, some braces have a pin that can be popped out and the braces can be taken apart...not sure what they're called, but those little coiled pin dealies.

[Jim Koepke]

not sure what they're called, but those little coiled pin dealies.

You mean "coiled pin dealies" is not what they are called?:eek:

Maybe you are thinking of a roll pin.

I don't think that gets the crank handle off of a brace.


I am getting very interested in restoring old tools and need to improve my bag of tricks.

One of the most important "tricks" is the selection of the tool to restore. Some of my acquisitions, bought before knowing better, are not worth restoring. Some of the better ones have me thinking about how hard it would be to get the nickel plating restored.

jtk

[Mike Holbrook]

I have a specific brace in mind. It has a hair-line crack. I don't think the crack is large enough to cram anything into it. I guess I could replace the handle with two halves and glue them together if I can't repair it. I have BLO and I too have seen it cause wood to swell, may be a good place to start.

I have a decent little collection going, a few hand crank drills, braces, ratcheting screwdrivers. I am collecting refinishing mixtures: WD40, Kerosene, Krud Kutter, Goof Off, Mineral Spirits, Naval Jelly, MEK, lots of brushes, nylon, brass & stainless steel. The trusty Dremel, Fein MultiTool, lots of sanding devices and scrapers, belt sander (lots of belts)...sharpening, of course, is it's own topic. It is not always easy to tell what one is getting off ebay. I bought 3 North Bros. #1530 drills trying to make one operational version. My MF #2 drill has a goobered handle that I am still working on. I have an operational MF #980 Drill with a tooth or two that are questionable. My North Bros. Yankee #1545 is probably the class of my finds, very good shape. I have a MF #772 brace with a Lion chuck, but the Leland's universal jaws are broken. I am cleaning up a Stanley 813-G, 12", that will be in very good condition soon. I am working on a couple smaller braces and a couple MF "Yankee" screwdrivers too.

So I guess I am in fairly deep. I kinda hate to buy a tool in great shape before I get it, for one thing they are usually much more expensive. Buying good fixer-uppers does involve risk and some work but for some reason I find it rewarding.

[john brenton]

I shouldn't have stated it as fact...I should have said that I think you can take them off. What the heck does taking that pin out do?

[David Weaver]

Don't BLO it yet, not until you've decided you're not going to glue it and it's not critical.

Thin CA will go a LOT of places you'd never think it could. that's the route I would go for the crack if it's very small and tight.

Whether or not the BLO will affect the ability of the CA to hold (this is my opinion) depends on how deep the crack is. I have CA stuff like boxing on planes that aren't worth a lot, and then rehabilitated the outside of them and then oiled them and had no problems, but that CA went way deeper than yours will. It's my opinion that if you oil it hard and it's been glued, it has a good chance of separating again.

[george wilson]

Jim,for your info,I have an unopened box of those,and the factory label says they are little coiled pin dealies!!!:) (lies,lies,communist lies!!!:))

[Mike Holbrook]

JIm,

Thanks for the sage advise. I have a Stanley/North Bros #1530 drill with a cracked handle that was apparently repaired, sort of. Since I have two other #1530's I have elected to use the one as spare parts. Actually, so far, I have only been able to restore enough parts for one functional drill. I was also bidding on a 6" sweep brace on ebay with a cracked handle. I thought I had a generous bid in but someone else wanted it worse than I did. At least I have a good idea what might be necessary to restore handles in the future. I like your thoughts on CA & BLO on the same handle and will probably follow your lead should I find myself faced with those alternatives.

[Jim Koepke]

JIm,

Thanks for the sage advise. ...

You are welcome, just remember that others may have better solutions. In my opinion, the best advice is to buy something that doesn't need difficult repairs.


I was also bidding on a 6" sweep brace on ebay with a cracked handle. I thought I had a generous bid in but someone else wanted it worse than I did.

Don't you just hate when that happens?

A 6" sweep is something that a lot of people want. Not a very common size. I have an 8" and those are also hard to come by.


At least I have a good idea what might be necessary to restore handles in the future. I like your thoughts on CA & BLO on the same handle and will probably follow your lead should I find myself faced with those alternatives.

The CA idea came from right here on the turning forum. The BLO came from a lot of sources. I became a believer when it did a good job to restore and old shovel handle.

For knife handles I have used a piece of PVC water pipe to make an immersion tank. I let them soak in there for a day or two. Then I suspend the knife above it for a while to drip dry. I will wipe the drip off the bottom every so often before it dries over the next day or two while it dries. It has been about a year now and those handles are still holding up well. One of the knives is a daily user paring knife in the kitchen. It gets washed a lot. Just don't let it, or any wood handled kitchen ware, get in the dishwasher.

For a brace, it would be more practical to wipe BLO on the wood. Otherwise it could gum up between the metal and the wood.

I also use a mixture of oil and bee's wax on wood for wood that is in fresh condition. Another is a commercial furniture oil/wax mixture that is used on most of my tools. I like how wood feels with a coat of oil and wax as compared to varnish or shellac. It also is used on metal parts of my tools.

I am not sure if the CA and BLO can work together. This is where testing on scrap pieces is recommended before using in a real application.

Have fun,

jtk