What *good* old power tools are worth buying?

[Matt Lau]

I'm at the seedling stage of woodworking, and I'd like to build a workshop in my two car garage. Since I'm young and broke, I'd like to maximize my investment by buying good tools that won't depreciate, and will perform well for a long time.

What *good* old (power) tools are worth buying?

I've heard about Oliver band saws, Walker-turner drill presses, and some of the old delta band saws. Anything else worth looking into?



ps. I'm a dentist that likes building acoustic guitars in the Martin tradition.
I hope to get into building cabinetry like my senior dentist mentor.

[Rod Sheridan]

General comes to mind, made in Canada.

Original Saw Company

Pistorius (Made in New York)

Wadkin/Wadkin Bursgreen

Regards, Rod.

[Julian Tracy]

You're question is entirely too broad. Although this forum has a crappy search engine, master it and search through threads advising startup shops. Any of the tools suggested numerous times are probably good bets, and ANY tool bought used at a decent price will not loose any of it's residual value if purchased smartly.

Focusing on name brands is a bit silly at this point IMO, and you should be focusing on the outlines of the arsenal in terms of tool type and size and power and than look for deals appropriately from there.

Julian

[Mike OMelia]

You're question is entirely too broad. Although this forum has a crappy search engine, master it and search through threads advising startup shops. Any of the tools suggested numerous times are probably good bets, and ANY tool bought used at a decent price will not loose any of it's residual value if purchased smartly.

Focusing on name brands is a bit silly at this point IMO, and you should be focusing on the outlines of the arsenal in terms of tool type and size and power and than look for deals appropriately from there.

Julian

I dunno. 14 posts in 3-4 years and you use one to suggest someone should search before asking a question. I like the question. And I will not search to answer it.

The Old Iron Dewalt Radial Arm Saws. I'm still looking for one to rebuild.

Mike

[John TenEyck]

IMO any of the brands that have been around since your grand father was around are worth considering. I built my shop with mostly second and third hand stationary tools. Dewalt/AMF radial arm saw for $175, Delta wood/metal bandsaw for free, Delta Unisaw for free, Delta HomeCraft lathe for $125, Inca jointer/planer (my highest priced item) for $950, Foley-Belsaw planer/molder for $250. You get the idea. You can find great old used tools if you keep your eyes open and are patient. I see no reason to buy new stationary machines if you are at all mechanically inclined. My 2 cents.

[Van Huskey]

I agree in general the question is rather broad.

Walker-Turner, Delta and Powermatic are three of the good old light duty machine companies, Delta and PM live on in Asian import guise, not to say that some of their new stuff isn't good nor great.

Oliver, Northfield and Yates are just three of a LONG list of serious heavy duty machine manufacturers. Much if not most of their stuff is heavier and larger than most beginning hobbyists are going to need or desire.

The more interest you have in old "arn" the more you need to learn about 3 phase motors and the ways to run them in a home shop.

You may want to check out the Old Woodworking Machines site and forum.

The best thing to do is scour the sources for machines and educate yourself on what is available in your area and ask more specific questions. Old machines can be a quality and economic windfall compared to buying new OR they can be a nightmare of wornout, beaten up junk that will cost more to fix than any sane human would spend on them.

This is a great time for buying old machines big industrial areas in the economic downturn are dumping lots of machines. The furniture "capital" of NC is a honey pot of old woodworking machines right now.


PS just remember condition of these machines mean FAR more than the nameplate in the vast majority of situations.

[Mike Barney Sr]

I am partial to Delta, but I do appreciate all the older machines. I do know that if you find an old Delta, make sure it is a pre-Rockwell model, or at least no later than mid 60's. Rockwell did not keep up with the quality past then when they owned Delta. It wasn't until Delta was able to get out on their own that they built the quality back up. This is from a retired Delta rep. The old Homecraft line of tools are very well built although they might require rebuilding or at least cleaning and alignment.

[Joseph Tarantino]

I see no reason to buy new stationary machines if you are at all mechanically inclined.

i would agree with that, but add one caveat. it's extremely possible to start rehabbing a tool and the parts needed to make it usable could eclipse the price of a better tool that doesn't need quite as much help.

[Bruce Wrenn]

I dunno. 14 posts in 3-4 years and you use one to suggest someone should search before asking a question. I like the question. And I will not search to answer it.

MikeExactly what is the threshold for suggesting that someone use a search? 10 posts, 50 posts, 200 posts? If you aren't part of the answer, then you are part of the problem

[Mike OMelia]

Exactly what is the threshold for suggesting that someone use a search? 10 posts, 50 posts, 200 posts? If you aren't part of the answer, then you are part of the problem

Exactly my point.

Mike

[Joe Jensen]

I started out young and broke 25 years ago. I bought a used Unisaw with a bunch of clamps, and a good rockwell router for $700. If you are patient you can find an old but solid Unisaw or PM66 table saw and I'd make that the cornerstone of your new shop. I also bought a 1950s 6" Sears Craftsman jointer for $50 and a 1950s Sears Craftsman 1HP 1/2" spindle shaper for $75. I built a ton of built ins, tables, a desk, and other things with that first set of tools. I later added a planer which made a huge improvement in the quality of my work.

I'd prioritize the budget for a Uni or PM66. Don't worry too much about the cosmetics, so what if the top is stained and scratched. And old but solid Uni with bad paint and a rough top will be worth the same or more down the road, so if some day you want to upgrade you will make money. 6" jointers are pretty abundant on Craig's list as lots of folks step up from a 6" to an 8" or larger. Start with 6" and you can get a workable machine for $100. Then you need a router. Don't drop lots of cash on fancy router table setup with fancy fence and lift. Build an outfeed table for the saw and mount a router underneath. I made a simple fence that I just clamp to the top with C-clamps. For fine adjust I loosen on clamp a little and bump until it's where I need it. Total cost, some scraps and a little time.

Enjoy.

BTW, 25 years later and I'm basically on my 3rd set of tools. Buy smart and you will make money with each upgrade. Buy new and you will likley lose money.

[Don Jarvie]

If you are looking at "Old Tools" you need to get over to OWWM.org and just read the posts and get familar with the different types of machines and brands. This way when you search the "classified, aka Clist" you will be able to separate the junk from the good stuff.

Look for tools at will be there when you skills develop. Example, you will find plently of Craftsman Contractors saws out there but as you skills develop and you are making more intricate projects a cabinet saw will make your job easier.

I have a Walker Turner Cabinet saw and a Craftsman Contractors that I use with a dado head and the difference between the saws is night and day. The WT is 100x more saw and makes everything more accurate and easier.

[Ron Bontz]

"I started out young and broke 25 years ago." Oh yeah. I started out young and broke too. Now I'm just old and broke. That's what happens when you buy new and shiny. Welcome to the world of wood. Best of luck to you.

[Frank Drew]

Matt,

Just for inspiration (or for when we die and go to heaven), check out this shop.

http://www.hesswoodwork.com/machinery.html

More realistically, at least for now, the suggestions to look for used but not abused models of known reliable brands such as Powermatic and Unisaw (Delta/Rockwell) can start you off on the right foot. I disagree with Julian in the sense that there are better and worse brands of woodworking equipment (i.e. I wouldn't buy Craftsman if I could find and afford Powermatic), also noting that a good table saw manufacturer might not necessarily make the best jointer (or whatever) for your needs.

[Myk Rian]

You want old tools? Go to www.owwm.org for the best info on the internet.

[george wilson]

It would really help if everyone would post their locations. I cannot tell someone where I know bargains can be found if they may be thousands of miles away,or in Canada or England,where ever.

[Kirk Poore]

As others have said, OWWM.org is the best resource for information. There are also lots of machines for sale there. Even if you don't find what you want in your area, the prices will at least give you a ballpark guesstimate of what to expect to pay when searching other areas (craigslist, fleabay).

Since you are just getting started, I suggest not over-buying until you're comfortable with heavy machines. This means sticking with good quality "medium" machines (aka light duty industrial), such as Delta and Powermatic. Don't go out and get a Tannewitz bandsaw or Oliver 260 tablesaw or anything by Buss or Newman-Whitney.

Not all manufacturers were good at all things, and even when they were good they might be pretty rare. Don't expect to be able to find parts easily except with very popular machines. On the other hand, almost all manufacturers used standard bearings and motors, which are the two big items which usually need attention. (Walker-Turner is the big exception --they used a lot of proprietary or rare bearing.)

Tablesaws--Cabinet saws are available and cheap, so I'd look for one of them. Delta Unisaws and Powermatic 66's top the list. Atlas/Clausing/Dewalt (all the same) and Craftsman (up to mid 1960's) have a decent rep, but are much rarer.

Planers--Parks and Powermatic 12" planers are good and a decent size. Their bigger models get big really fast.

Drill Presses--Powermatic, Delta, and Clausing are all available and tough to wear out. Clausing is more rare. Early Craftsman (pre-1970) can be good.

Jointers--Delta & Powerermatic, though there are lots of decent 6" models of other types out there. Oliver and Yates-American made some smaller (8" or less) jointers, but they are fairly rare. Big industrial jointers are a good place to start with heavy machines, since they are simple.

Sanders: Delta & Powermatic belt/disk sanders, Boice Crane spindle sanders.

Bandsaws: Delta, Powermatic, Walker-Turner. Oliver made some good 18" saws, but they are often under-powered (only 1/2 hp on many). There are lots more manufacturers of bandsaws out there, though, and many are good.

Radial Arm Saws: Dewalt (round arm best, square arm OK), Delta, pre-1970 or so (oval arm) Craftsman. DON'T buy any Craftsman tool that has significant amounts of plastic or says "Electronic" on it.

Lathes: Delta, Powermatic, Oliver.


For lots of pictures of all of these go to vintagemachinery.org (http://vintagemachinery.org/) (recently renamed from owwm.com). You can search by manufacturer or machine type.

Note that there are lots and lots of other manufacturers and machines out there. For example, General made good stuff, but unless you're in Canada, they're pretty sparse on the ground.

Kirk

[Mike OMelia]

I REALLY want to find one of those old Dewalt RASs. (round arm). If you have never used one, well, they are amazing.

Mike

[Frank Drew]

Oliver made some good 18" saws, but they are often under-powered (only 1/2 hp on many). There are lots more manufacturers of bandsaws out there, though, and many are good.

You'd think that a nomimal 1/2 hp motor would be too small, even on a band saw, but I had one of those Olivers (model 192-D) and with a sharp blade there was plenty of power, even when resawing to the machine's capacity.

Good survey of the field, Kirk; another nice bandsaw that turns up from time to time, and isn't too big for a small-ish shop, is the Crescent 20".

[Mike OMelia]

What about Yates Bandsaws? Snowflake?

[Van Huskey]

What about Yates Bandsaws? Snowflake?

Unless he find the rare 20" SF he will have to rethink the garage shop for the bigger Snowflakes. Yates American made arguably some of the best bandsaws ever made.

[Dave Cav]

Kirk provided an excellent summary. Anyone interested in getting into Old Arn should bookmark or print it. The only things I would add or modify might be that I think the Delta turret arm saws up until maybe the early 80s are generally ok, as long as they have a metal motor case. Stay away from any of them with a plastic motor housing, and ANY of the later Delta (non-turret) 10" saws. DeWalt RA saws up to the mid-60s (when an obvious amount of sheet metal began to appear, and/or Black and Decker logos) are ok, but older is better. Here (western Washington) MBF, MBC and (less often) 925 models show up on CL with some regularity for decent prices.

Don't overlook older Delta "contractor" type saws either. Both the 9 and 10" models can be a very good value as long as they are a real belt drive contractor saw, and not some direct or flex drive piece of junk.

[Vic Damone]

The only old iron I'd consider would be a wide jointer, old machinery is old technology including brand new open back contractor saws. Tolerances were poor to begin with and old motors can be a pain. I restored a 1955 Delta / Milwaukee band saw with some updated parts. A similar size Laguna greatly out preforms it. You'll need a good bandsaw for resawing instrument parts. I'd suggest looking for late model used machinery starting with a decent dust collector.

[Joseph D'Orazio]

I sure wish I had read this thread before I bought the junk that I bought. I enjoyed reading this thread. It will be interesting to see what you wind up getting.

[Myk Rian]

The only old iron I'd consider would be a wide jointer, old machinery is old technology including brand new open back contractor saws.
So, what technology is new from the 40s, up to now? Nothing at all. It's all the same. A blade cuts wood.
Tools were made better back then. No plastic in anything.
Here are some of my Old iron. These replaced newer machines, and I couldn't be happier.

http://i938.photobucket.com/albums/ad222/MykRian/Delta%20DP220/1128001028.jpg
http://i938.photobucket.com/albums/ad222/MykRian/DeWalt%20MBF%20RAS/0423001518.jpg
http://i938.photobucket.com/albums/ad222/MykRian/Rockwell-Delta%2028-380/Img_0395.jpg

[Kent A Bathurst]

PM1150 drill presses are aveileble in good shape at reasonable prices.

Waiting for Chip Lindley to chime in here - he is your kind of guy, Matt. He has nothing but old arn, AFAIK - started because of funds available, and never changed course.

[Frank Drew]

The only old iron I'd consider would be a wide jointer, old machinery is old technology...

If I was outfitting a shop, I'd buy an older, well-priced, heavy-duty jointer in a heartbeat, but also an older high-quality band saw, drill press or planer. The new cutterheads are great, I'm sure, but an Oliver is still an Oliver, straight knives or not.

IMO, a tool that's definitely been improved in recent years is the wood-turning lathe, particularly the outboard (or sliding head) modifications giving attention to faceplate and bowl turning, and the speed and rotational control now offered as standard on many models. Similarly, I'd probably opt for a more modern sliding table saw over even a super heavy older Tannewitz, Oliver or Northfield, as fine as those machines are.

[Bob Murphy]

''Tablesaws--Cabinet saws are available and cheap, so I'd look for one of them. Delta Unisaws and Powermatic 66's top the list. Atlas/Clausing/Dewalt (all the same) and Craftsman (up to mid 1960's) have a decent rep, but are much rarer.''

Hi,

I believe that you should become knowledgeable about the various makes of equipment available, as well as knowing what to look at/for on such equipment. Be opportunistic, check as many for sale resourses as possible and be prepared to do some heavy hauling.

A few years back, I went to a high school disposal sale and bought an Atlas/Clausing table saw because nobody else wanted it; price was $50.00. Built like a tank and works like a dream, after some tuning up. Minor quirk is that it has a 3/4'' arbor so saw blades have to be drilled out-usually for a small upcharge-or buy 1'' and bush down to 3/4''.

BTW, I wasn't looking for a table saw but the opportunity presented itself...

Bob

[Vic Damone]

Myke

In response to the original posters mention of instrument building I intended to convey my experience with an old bandsaw and old machinery in general compared to a modern designs as they might relate to his needs. My dissatisfaction with some old machinery is a result of my own experience and requirements and frankly, my laziness. It's obvious our definition of "a better machine" is different for reasons of our own and in hindsight I should have been more specific in my response to the original poster. Only time will tell whether the longevity of modern machinery will compare to old iron. By then I'll be dead making it a non issue. I do understand the attraction of old machinery and I have some myself but when I have to mess around with a drill press with three inches of travel and goofy belts, it's gone. I am lazy.

With the exception of your drill press I've owned both the RAS and still own that style band saw. Technology and design has greatly improved the performance of those and many other woodworking machines.

For me the small blade, weak motor, and the runout in the arm assembly on that DeWalt make it a dangerous machine. Im sure you've had that saw run up the stock and jam. I've never had that issue with larger more powerful RAS's, better design and technology.

Since my bandsaw is somewhat of an heirloom I decided to restore it and relegate it to a 1/4" blade and scroll work. Depending on which hight the blade guide shaft is set the the runout of the entire assembly is all over the place. Resawing on the Delta is a lesson in time management, patience, and mediocre output. My Driftmaster equipped Laguna LT14SEL provides far greater repeatable accuracy and speed than the same size Delta, better design and technology. I believe the original poster will need this level of performance to re saw instrument parts.

I was forced to sell my beloved Walker Turner table saw some years ago. Not only does my SawStop table saw out preform the Walker Turner in every way I can rest easy leaving it to my son because of the technological safety it provides. In the end it's all about personal needs and opinions. Your tools look terrific, very nice.

[Myk Rian]

Vic;

Having owned 2 Delta 14" band saws, one a 2001 Legacy, the other my present 1966 metal/wood model, and both with risers, I have had no problems re-sawing up to 12" stock. It's all in the proper tuning of the saw, and having a sharp blade. I never get bowed cuts, and can cut 1/8" veneers with ease. This is all done with factory fences.

The DeWalt RASs came in more than the 3/4hp 9" model, but my MBF is used for cutting trim and picture frames. After buying the Mr. Sawdust book and spending the time tuning the saw, there is no play in the arm. Again, it's all in the proper setup of a machine that makes it accurate, and safe to operate. I can swing it from a 90º cut to a 45º cut and it's spot on.

It does take time to restore a tool, and often parts need replacing. Bearings are changed out most often, and can make the difference between a tool that does a great job, or a mediocre one.
The DeWalt took a month of retirement time, the band saw was a 3 week project, and the drill press took 2 weeks. Being retired is a plus. But after spending the time, and taking care to get it right, the result can be a tool that will perform as good as, or better than, a high dollar new machine. All 3 machines replaced perfectly good newer ones.

Thanks for the cudos on my tools. I'm quite proud of them.
Next up? 1947 Craftsman 6" jointer and 8" table saw. They will be mounted on a single stand with a 1 hp motor to drive them both.
Some day I hope to find a Delta/Crescent 8" jointer to replace my 8" Grizzly Asian machine. That would definitely be 3 steps up.

[Van Huskey]

Myke

In response to the original posters mention of instrument building I intended to convey my experience with an old bandsaw and old machinery in general compared to a modern designs as they might relate to his needs.

I do understand the attraction of old machinery and I have some myself but when I have to mess around with a drill press with three inches of travel and goofy belts, it's gone. I am lazy.


Since my bandsaw is somewhat of an heirloom I decided to restore it and relegate it to a 1/4" blade and scroll work. Depending on which hight the blade guide shaft is set the the runout of the entire assembly is all over the place. Resawing on the Delta is a lesson in time management, patience, and mediocre output. My Driftmaster equipped Laguna LT14SEL provides far greater repeatable accuracy and speed than the same size Delta, better design and technology. I believe the original poster will need this level of performance to re saw instrument parts.

Not only does my SawStop table saw out preform the Walker Turner in every way I can rest easy leaving it to my son because of the technological safety it provides.

First, let me say I am not a old arn only guy, far from it.

As for instrument building on old "arn" there is a gentleman here names George Wilson that to call him an accomplished instrument maker would be insulting to his talents, not even sure what word to use. He AFAIK uses only old iron and handtools.

As for a drill press with a short quill stroke, they existed then and still do now, but one of "the" old drill presses to look for is the PM 1150 with a quill stroke of 6", hard to equal in todays new machines and AFAIK impossible to exceed at least under $1k.

Comparing the cast Delta 14" machine with the Laguna does leave the Delta lacking BUT this is a machine designed for a 1/4" blade, it can be pushed far beyond that but still has its limitations. I think a more fair discussion would be a 20" Delta 28-350, very common and cheap. For $1k you can have one with all new bearings, tires, modern Carter guides and a 3hp motor without much trouble, one could even add a Driftmaster and be far below the price of a 14SEL and it will equal or best it in the vast majority of situations, it will come pretty close to my MM20 as long as you don't exceed its 13" resaw limit. The really light duty stuff from the past certainly doesn't measure up to modern equipment in many was unless the modern equipment is equally light, compare an old Delta 14" cast saw to the modern clones and the Delta will win most everytime, you may spend some money on guides and/or a bigger motor but the bones are still better.

The Sawstop tech is indeed a different ballgame. In terms of safety it is a quantum leap.

Old iron is not usually plug and play but in the current climate the truly great machines are selling far below their worth and if someone would trade me a Yates American Y30 or Y36 in excellent shape for my Minimax MM20 they would be taking home an Italian saw. I think the MM20 is the best consumer wood cutting bandsaw sold today BUT I think it would be hard to come up with a set of criteria that makes it better than one of the Yates I mentioned, short of warranty.

I suppose my bottom line is old machines do not inherently loose an accuracy or precision contest with new equipment, in fact dollar for dollar right now they probably are capable of winning more often than not.

[Salvatore Buscemi]

IMO, a tool that's definitely been improved in recent years is the wood-turning lathe, particularly the outboard (or sliding head) modifications giving attention to faceplate and bowl turning, and the speed and rotational control now offered as standard on many models.

My 70 year old Oliver lathe has a sliding head.

[Josiah Bartlett]

My 70 year old Oliver lathe has a sliding head.
Many old pattern maker's lathes have both sliding heads and variable speed controls with the emphasis on outboard turning. The main problem is that unless they have been in active use in somebody's model shop, they are sitting out back waiting to be scrapped and are often badly rusted, and they are very heavy. Light duty lathes have certainly improved and picked up those features, though.

[Josiah Bartlett]

I own a 1974 Unisaw, a 1948 or so Walker Turner 16" bandsaw, an early 1950's Delta shaper, a Quincy air compressor of unknown provenance, and a Davis & Wells jointer.

While old motors can be a pain (the WT saw has a big 3hp Brown and Brockmeyer repulsion start motor that I had to do a bearing job on), most tools can be upgraded with newer, more efficient induction motors. The only really difficult motors are the direct drive bandsaw and jointer motors and some of the mortisers and drill presses that had hollow shaft motors. Pretty much everything else can be run with a new V belt NEMA 56 frame motor. Old Unisaws can be run as-is or retrofitted with a newer Unisaw motor.

I tend to do trickle down upgrading with my machines. I put a new 5hp motor on my air compressor so the older 3 hp Baldor motor got moved to the jointer, and the 1hp jointer motor got moved to a band sander.

I buy the variable pitch cast iron V belt pulleys from McMaster-Carr when I get a new motor so I can dial in the exact speed I want to run a machine at- they are well balanced and cost about $30.

[Salvatore Buscemi]

Many old pattern maker's lathes have both sliding heads and variable speed controls with the emphasis on outboard turning. The main problem is that unless they have been in active use in somebody's model shop, they are sitting out back waiting to be scrapped and are often badly rusted, and they are very heavy. Light duty lathes have certainly improved and picked up those features, though.

No, I mean my light duty, 12x36 Oliver lathe, has a sliding head. And "most" new light duty lathes don't have that feature. I will agree that speed control has improved, but the addition of a VFD(cost about 150 bucks) puts me right in that range too.

I'm really not trying to be argumenative, more that I'm trying to point out that there aren't that many "new" features.

[Frank Drew]

My 70 year old Oliver lathe has a sliding head.


That's good to know; I wasn't aware of it.

[John TenEyck]

I REALLY want to find one of those old Dewalt RASs. (round arm). If you have never used one, well, they are amazing.

Mike

I have one and it is a sweet machine. Very smooth and precise, even after 50+ years. All I put in were new motor bearings and the bearings that ride in the arm. I see one for sale every couple of months up here in NY state on Craigslist, etc.

[Ben Martin]

All old tools suck and should be sent to the scrap yard.

Please don't check CL, eBay or the local auctions for them either!

...especially in my area!... :D

[John Lifer]

The only old iron I'd consider would be a wide jointer, old machinery is old technology including brand new open back contractor saws. Tolerances were poor to begin with and old motors can be a pain. I restored a 1955 Delta / Milwaukee band saw with some updated parts. A similar size Laguna greatly out preforms it. You'll need a good bandsaw for resawing instrument parts. I'd suggest looking for late model used machinery starting with a decent dust collector.

Ya Full of IT.... Yes you can find a lot of old Arn that is worn out. But Tolerances then were as good or better than 90% of the plastic throwaway junk you find now. And what did you pay for a Laguna band saw? You can find an excellent comparable BS for MUCH LESS and it will do the same if not better job.

[Matt Lau]

Wow!

Thanks for all the replies!
I'm sorry for not replying earlier, as I've been on the road for a couple working interviews.

With my (limited) experience with tools, particularly dental/medical tools, I've found that quality control isn't what it used to be. I've found the robustness of the old motors and mechanisms (eg. grinders, chairs, handpeices) to far exceed the crap that is made nowadays. In particular, I've been *really* dissappointed about Hu Freidy (the "Cadillac" of hand instruments) since I feel that the quality of their stuff is drastically worse than even seven years ago. They've lost touch with their core audience, and I suspect that many of the big tool manufacturers probably have as well.

While I'd found a number of posts regarding delta tools, oliver, and the occasional walker-turner press, I felt that tehre was more out there. I was hoping for a post that has all the info put together.
I just hate adding pointless information to my posts, so I didn't mention my three weeks reading through old archives and looking for old threads before posting here..

I'll be slowly building my workshop as I pore over these posts. Please keep posting.

[Steve LaFara]

Most of my shop is made up of old machinery and I'm very happy that it is. 1939 Delta Unisaw & 1943 Delta 6" jointer that I restored. Late '70s Delta band saw and a Delta drill press that I've never checked the age on. I think I have a total of $800 in the whole bunch. You need to be patient hunting but it's worth it in my opinion.

After having said all that, I may be adding my first new piece with a Delta 46-460 lathe. The older ones worth having are just too big for my basement shop or I would be restoring an old PM90 as we speak.

I did not read the entire thread so if someone already mentioned that you should visit OWWM.org I apologize. Great group of serious old arn experts there.

[Matt Lau]

I'll be checking out OWWM.org, but I'm afraid of getting yet another unhealthy obsession.

I just pickup up a Walker turner press from CL.
My was it heavy!

[Van Huskey]

I'll be checking out OWWM.org, but I'm afraid of getting yet another unhealthy obsession.

I just pickup up a Walker turner press from CL.
My was it heavy!

Congrats, you will have to start a thread with pics. I must say it is a slippery slope!

[Travis Porter]

For a bandsaw, I would also consider a Tannewitz. They are pretty much all 3 phase, but the term industrial does fit them well in my opinion.

[ken gibbs]

You must be on to something. My girl friend says there is no tool like and old tool. I am very old.

[Van Huskey]

For a bandsaw, I would also consider a Tannewitz. They are pretty much all 3 phase, but the term industrial does fit them well in my opinion.

There were a LOT of good bandsaw manufacturers a partial list of ones to check out if the names come up on CL et al:
Rockwell
Boice-Crane
Porter
Pre 60's Craftsman
Racine
Northfield
Poitras
Moak
Davis & Wells
Oliver
Crescent
Delta
Powermatic
Do-All
Dewalt
Preston
Gallmeyer & Livingston
Duro
Parks
Herberts
General
Sprunger
Tannewitz
Walker-Turner
Laidlaw
Wallace
Jones Superior
Beaver
Heston & Anderson
Fay & Egan
American Saw Co
Bett Marr
American Wood Working
BM Root
Bental Margedant
Yates-American

There are plenty of others. Just like car companies there WERE a ton of them. One does need to note though that some of these would NOT be for the faint of heart. Many of them have zero off the shelf parts availability. This doesn't mean they are lost causes though just that one may have to scrounge or find a generic work around.