Veneer patch over rough plywood

[Doug Hobkirk]

Wow - I haven't visited the Creek in 7 months (I had to check). Looking good. Maybe the new system handles photos better? I will soon find out.

I want to install some veneer to replace the damaged face layer on a plywood cabinet.

http://img511.imageshack.us/img511/413/original640.jpg (http://img511.imageshack.us/i/original640.jpg/)


The plywood layer under the face is quite poor.

http://img824.imageshack.us/img824/1738/substrate640.jpg (http://img824.imageshack.us/i/substrate640.jpg/)


QUESTION 1: Should I patch it with one of the plastic wood products before I attach the veneer?

The veneer I am using "Band-It Real Wood" white birch, iron-on.

QUESTION 2: Should I iron it on OR glue it with TiteBond after I remove the residue on the back of the veneer?

Here I'm holding the patch so I can mark where to trim from underneath.

http://img13.imageshack.us/img13/7739/cuttoshape640.jpg (http://img13.imageshack.us/i/cuttoshape640.jpg/)


Additional Info - The location will be at floor level next to the baseboard - i.e., the patch won't be subject to stress.

Thanks -

PS - RANT! I still really hate the SMC forum picture uploading. After reducing the pictures to 640x480 and under 60 MB it still wouldn't take them. Even though when I searched the forum for advice the administrator says SMC wants us to upload to SMC, not use Image Shack or whatever. Pictures are essential in forums - they usually clarify the content of the post and they make the post more enjoyable to view. Stop making it so hard! And, while I'm on a rant, POST THE PICTURE LIMITS PROMINENTLY - stop making it so hard to even discover what the problem is! The good news is I won't rant about this again.

[Chris Fournier]

We don't talk like that here Doug...

Ha!

I'd use "bondo" build up the plywood surface as it cures quickly and is quite hard unlike plastic wood.

Thanks for the fine photos!

[Pat Barry]

60 MB is one heck of a large image. That wouldn't post anywhere.

[Mike Barney Sr]

First remove all of the loose wood. Then use bondo to fill in the the edges and surface. Bondo cures fast and will move with the wood somewhat. Sand everything flush with the edge and surface. Then rout the area you want to veneer just slightly (a few thousands)shallower than the veneer thickness. Use a straightedge guide. Use Titebond to glue in new veneer. If you're using a water based finish use Titebond III. I learned this after ruining a nice piece of quilted maple veneer. Clamp. Sand after the glue dries and finish.

[Doug Hobkirk]

60 MB is one heck of a large image. That wouldn't post anywhere.
My bad - my pics that wouldn't load were under 60KB. The pics shown are the hosted at Image Shack.

[Tony Bilello]

For your first question, I would go along with everyone else and clean out the loose particles and fill with Bondo. An alternative would be to use hypodermic needles and inject CA glue into inaccessable cracks. The prime objective is to fill the cracks and splits and stabilize them to be able to add the veneer. Since it is not being stessed, no need to get too radical.

As for the iron on veneer, I believe in using a product the way it was meant to be used. If properly ironed on, it should last a very long time.

[Phil Phelps]

I would be more tempted to use a router and remove the splinted core and replace with a solid, glued in, patch.

[Mike Schuch]

I just finished covering all the oak cabinet faces in my kitchen with maple veneer. I used bondo on every joint and sanded with a random orbit sander. The maple veneer I used was very thin and had a incredibly thin fabric backing so any bumps would be very noticeable. The contact cement has been working wonderfully.