Planer Capacity - 15" vs. 20" - A Request for Opinions

[Glen Blanchard]

I know this has been bantered about before, but I am wondering if I will get some new information if I bring this up for discussion again.

I will eventually be replacing my DeWalt lunchbox planer with one a bit more stout. I am looking at the Grizzly 15” and 20” planers with spiral cutterheads, but am having a heck of a time deciding how important those 5” are. The difference in price is $920 which makes the 20” 62% more expensive than the 15”. That’s quite a difference. I know my need for the extra 5” is dependent upon the kind of work I do, but I am still having a problem deciding. In the past, I have always made small stuff (boxes, etc.) as my small shop would not permit larger pieces. We have moved, and I now have a much larger shop. If I move into furniture remains to be seen. I anticipate that I still will make my boxes, but am sure I will also try my hand at some larger stuff as well. I just got a Grizzly 12” jointer and also have a Performax 16/32 drum sander.

For those of you who make furniture, how frequently would a 15” planer be a limitation?

[Philip Rodriquez]

I have a 15" Griz with a SC and I've never felt limited. IMHO, I would need 20" all the time to justify the additional cost, space, and electrical requirements. I, like you, also have a performax 16-32... Plus I have a good collection of hand planes. Therefore, there is nothing I cannot handle. I say save your money and put it towards some other tools!

[C Scott McDonald]

I am in the same boat. I have a long since miled out Delta lunch box sniper planer. I have been going back and forth with the 15" and 20". I think I will settle on a 20" and do the "Buy once, cry once" thing.

One project I had in mind was doing Lonnie Birds Secretary. The writing flap finishes out at 15" so the 20" planer might be better to give some wiggle room.

Scott

[Mike Barney Sr]

Consider what type of work you do as well as size. Consider how much you can afford to spend. Consider what other tools you need or might want. Consider how much space you have in your shop. Then get the biggest planer that meets all of your considerations. And keep your lunchbox planer for smaller work.

[glenn bradley]

How often did you walk up to your lunchbox machine and say "Huh, I can't put this through there"? If that never or very rarely happened, spend the $900 on wood. If it happened every other time you wanted to plane something, the money will be well spent.

I went with the 15" (upgrade to a DW734) mostly because I just couldn't fit a 20" in the shop realistically (there are more machines yet on my dream-list and I want to have room to own them and to use them). I suppose I had developed habits from having the 12-1/2" machine for a few years as I have yet to try to put anything "too big" for the G0453Z through it yet ;-) If you have the actual need and the room, I could never see you being sorry you had more capacity.

[Ron Bontz]

I just bought another 15" planer myself. 2nd and final one I hope. This time I opted for the spiral cutters. The 20 inch is nice but mobility issues is a problem for me. Plus end tables large cabinet doors can require greater than 20" so you are right back to square one. You could always use the extra cash toward a large dual drum sander or even a Jet 22-44. Just my humble opinion. Good luck.:)

[Van Huskey]

I will say what I always say but maybe a little more briefly.

I am in the 12" jointer, 15" planer camp BUT that assumes one has or will get a wide thickness sander. I am not one who will go to the ends of the earth to joint a 23 1/2" board on a 12" jointer person so the 15" jointer will handle anything I can joint with the 12". I have a 38" Woodmaster drum sander so glue-ups are a non-issue, though they will take more time if you are sloppy with the glue-up. Besides glue ups wider planers can cut time by handling 2 (or more) boards at once. Not much of an issue with me, it is a hobby and if I wanted to go that route I would want segmented infeed rollers which basically triples the cost compared to a 15" planer. For what a new 20" planer w/ segmented infeed rollers costs you can basically have a 15" planer and 38" drum sander which I think has far more potential. Now if money is a non-issue then a 20 or 24" planer with segmented infeed rollers and 37+ inch wide belt sander would be very very nice!

[Frank Drew]

Personally, I'd get the 20" model; I worked for years and years with a 15" planer and no dimension sander; every now and then I wished I had a larger planer, not a lot of the time, but often enough that I would have upgraded had it made sense in my workspace (it wouldn't have.) Once a year or so I might have to bring boards too big for my equipment over to a somewhat local millwork for planing and drum sanding.

If you have the space (and the $), it's hard to have too much capacity, IMO.

[Cary Falk]

If I had the money and the space I would get the 20". I opted to go with the 15" with a spiral head. I also have a 18/36 drum sander so I have some extra capacity if I need it.

[Josh Rudolph]

I have a DW733 and bought a 20" Grizzly with straight blades. I just recently did the spiral head upgrade. I still have the lunchbox and use it rarely. Now that I say that, I may consider selling it...who knows.

Physical size difference from the 15" to the 20" isn't huge, but can be a factor for many. I have a feeling that if you can house a 12" jointer though, you can likely handle the size of the 20".
The 20" will require a higher amperage circuit. For most this isn't that big of a deal, but the heavier gauge wire can get expensive, especially if you have to run the power to the other side of the shop.

I like to buy wood as wide as I can find it, just like anyone else. If it is beyond the capacity of the jointer (12" in this case), it goes on the planer sled. I have successfully flattened 19" wide boards without using a hand plane (I use and enjoy using hand planes in my work, however I don't care to flatten and dimension with a hand plane). It was one heck of a workout, but was able to pull it off.

So my vote is for the 20". If you can afford it, just buy it and don't think about it. I feel you have already started down the path of making furniture with the purchase of the jointer.

[Erik Christensen]

I have a 15" planer and 22/44 drum sander. I have yet to see a single board in my area > 15" in width. The only thing wider are glue-ups and I joint/plane board before assembly, post assembly they go through the sander. In the 3 years I have this combo I have never had even a single occasion where I wanted a 20" planer.

those of you in area where wood choices are more plentiful that here in SoCal might feel differently.

[Bruce Page]

I never plane anything wider than 13"-14". My 15" PM has always served me well.
But, like Cary said..if I had unlimited space & money...

[Chip Lindley]

Bigger Is Better, only under certain circumstances. With a spiral head, the 20" planer might actually save you $920 in ruined wood over time if you plane panel glue-ups. Otherwise, a 15" spiral planer would do everything you need to do. The $920 would put you well on your way to acquiring a decent wide drum sander for panel-finishing.

[Chris Fournier]

Go with your guts on this one but I have to say this: with a little care a woodworker should be able to take two 15" panels and glue them up in such a way that clean up with a card scraper (maybe a lick with a handplane first) removes all traces of the glue up and the result is a perfect 30" panel. This is basic stuff and anyone can do this if they demand it of themselves.

I recently bought a 16" jointer/planer because I NEEDED it for the work I am now doing. While bigger may be better, every time I fire it up I think about how sweet my 12" jointer/planer was! The rational that people use that follows the logic: "I want to make X and it requires a 24" panel so a 24" planer would be great" is pretty silly. What happens when we want to make a dining table?

Get the best quality 15" planer you can buy and you'll be happy.

[Rod Sheridan]

Glen, I have a 12" J/P combo, which for me is the perfect match.

I do not plane glued up panels, as Chris said, a quick pass with a card scraper or plane is all they need.

Since I can only joint 12" wide wood, I don't need anything larger, and if I do I have a suitable selection of hand planes which can accomodate any width of material.

Regards, Rod.

[fRED mCnEILL]

I went from a lunchbox planer to a 20 in Grizzly. Its not much bigger than a 15 incher. I occasionally use the full 20 inches. But it came in real handy when I planed both halfs of a 30 inch ,15 foot end grained countertop. The additional capacity, power and weight makes it a lot better. If you can afford it go for it.

[Jim Eller]

FWIW I had a PM 15HH and changed to a PM 209HH. I like the extra width. I have done some 20" pieces(and glad I had it) but mostly for side by side work.

[Scott Vigder]

After reading all these posts, my DW 735,which has served me well for years, seems so inadequate!

[Aaron Berk]

I own and operate a 15" planer.
Never had a lunch box except when I carried my "Lunch" in one.

I make everything from small boxes, to large table tops.

The only time I max out my planer is when I'm planing 4 or 5 boards at once.

If I had the chance I'd jump on a FAIR priced 20 inch planer.

But honestly, I think a GOOD 15" planer works great.
If I did production runs of large table tops. then a bigger planer would be nice.

But why shoot a squirrel with a .45? a pellet gun is much more size appropriate.

[Neil Brooks]

My philosophy on this IS my philosophy on pretty much all power tools:

Unless you will truly miss the money, who has EVER regretted buying "too much tool ??"

But the $$$$ part ... is a totally personal decision.

I love the saying, "Buy it right, and only cry once." :)

[Don Buck]

I have gotten by with a 12" planer for 15 years and the only time I needed a wider machine was on some kitchen cabinet door panels. On 2 different kitchen projects I took the panels to a local cabinet shop who surfaced the wider panels for me and in both cases refused payment. This being said, I recently purchased a used 20" Delta planer from a school system closing out another industrial arts department. Hope to get the 6 ga. x 50 amp 220 circuit wired in this weekend!

[Craig D Peltier]

I like what someone posted" buy once cry once" that sums it up. I have a 20" and use its capacity often on glue ups for tabletops , wide boards of exotics , also to be able to push through that many more pieces when planing side by side is very nice.5hp is nice as well, not sure oif the 15s are 5hp or not.Also nice for half glue ups planing, for say a dining room table , glue up half width and send through tow seperate glue ups, for one seam. A 15" would work with two but maybe 3 glueups.

I would personally not buy new and look for used, get it half price or less. I paid 1k for my PM 20". Its on a movable base and works great , no reason to lock the feet it stays in place with its weight.

[Peter Quinn]

I have a 15" at home, and would get a 20" if I had the space and money because I like having too much tool, or as much as possible whenever possible. I have the space, but not the money. Frankly 20" is not in most cases a great leap forward. Many of the things I make are either less than 15" or greater than 20"'. It's really a 24" planer that opens a new door IME, but most of those are a huge leap up in price, size, and electrical requirements,. Lots of things like table tops or counters are greater than 20" some wide panels are too. I have a 22-44 drum sander that gets things over 15" done for me. So it's basically IMO a personal choice more than a logical mandate. Pick one and run with it!

[Paul Johnstone]

Well, I went from a lunchbox to a stronger 13" planer to a 20" planer.. I wished I had skipped the middle step.

Is a 20" planer necessary? Nope. But you can really process wood fast through it. I'm really glad I did not get a 15". I get a huge testosterone rush when I fire that thing up :)

The only downside was that I had to hire movers to bring the thing down the basement stairs. Got a guy off Craigslist.. I think it was about $70.. But I'm sure it saved me and my friends injury.

A lunchbox planer is more than adequate for woodworking.. I can't tell you that you even "need" a 15" planer.. You are already in the luxury catagory here.. If you can swing the extra money for the 20", do it, you will not regret it.

[Van Huskey]

So it's basically IMO a personal choice more than a logical mandate. Pick one and run with it!

That is so true for many of us here (non-pros) for every tool/machine purchase, even the choice to buy or not to buy!

[hank dekeyser]

I had an old Ryobi (pre Home deephole era) lunchbox - I ran thousands of BF through it - I bought it cuz it was all I could afford (and it came w/ a free jigsaw) - my Father still uses it to this day. I have since graduated to a Jet 15 (anniversary edition era) which I don't use very much, but when ya need it ya need it. I scored the spiral cutterhead for it and WOW what a difference in finish on the wood and alot quieter ! IF I had the money I would have bought a bigger one for the couple times a year I "want" to thickness something wider. If money matters, the 15 will serve you well, I know a few guys that money doesnt matter and they still bought the 15 - Whichever unit you decide on I would absolutely bite the bullet for the spiral cutterhead PERIOD. changing blades is a pain, turning a carbide 90 degrees is a breeze. BTW anybody want to buy some 15" knives, I got like 3 sets and the old cutterhead yet. PM me if interested. (I'd hate to hi-jack this thread)

I agree w/ the others, make a decision, and don't look back - lifes too short

[Danny Hamsley]

You will adapt nicely to a 15" planer with spiral cutter.

[Paul McGaha]

I have a 15" Powermatic w the Byrd Head. Its my 2nd planer, The 1st was a Rigid Lunchbox.

Going from a lunchbox planer to a full size planer is a major upgrade performance wise, especially with a Byrd head. I dont know if I can think of a bigger upgrade that typically happens. In my case I upgraded from a 6" Jointer to an 8" Jointer and from a Contractors saw to a Cabinet saw and I would say that neither of those upgrades was as significant as the planer upgrade. From the most noisy tool in the shop (By far) to one of the most quiet.

As for as 15" or 20", I suppose that depends on your budget and your projects. If you choose to buy a used one (a great idea) I think there are a lot more 15" planers out there than 20" ones.

I would highly advise getting the Byrd head. Love the quality of cut and how quiet it is.

Good luck with it.

PHM

[Alan Heffernan]

20" if the cost isn't too big of a hurdle. "Buy once!"

I have a 20" PM with Byrd head and it is great to run glued up panels through.