12 inch vs 10 inch table saw

[Gino Deluca]

Can anybody expound on the possible downsides of a 12 inch table saw vs a 10 inch? I wasn't looking for a 12 inch, but I found a Steel City 12 inch, model 35638 unit for a very good price. I notice that the blade RPM is a little higher at 4300, would that cause any special considerations? Can I use my 10 inch blades with this machine? Also, any comments on that brand or saw in particular? I appreciate any feedback anyone can offer - thanks!

[Ryan Hellmer]

There's lots of discussion about this, search the forum. I have both (actually 2 of each), prefer 10 inch (even though I thought it would be the other way around). Blades and accessories are harder to find and more expensive with the 12". 10" blades likely won't work, unless bored out, as the 10" standard arbor is 5/8" while the 12" has a 1" arbor hole. The extra RPM is no biggie. If the price is right it may be a wash.

Ryan

[Rod Sheridan]

Hi Gino, I have a 12" saw in my shop.

The SC saw you indicated is more the size of a 10" cabinet saw than an industrial 12" cabinet saw, which is a good thing.

Larger bodied 12" saws are big, with the blade further back from the front of saw, making for an uncomfortably long reach when cross cutting small stock.

The SC doesn't have that problem, it's actually closer to the front than my 10 inch
General 650 was.

You can have any blade bored out to whatever bore you wish, I normally pay about $12 to have a blade bored to 30mm for my saw.

I use 10 inch blades all the time on my saw, I only own one 12" blade which is a rip blade.

If the saw is a good price, buy it, you may never need the extra depth of cut, however it's there if you want.........Rod.

[Van Huskey]

Two blades equal except for size will see the larger one have a theoretical potential for a smoother cut, but if you use the current technology high quality blades it is unlikely to see a difference between say a 10 and 12" Freud Fusion blade or a Forrest WWII 10 and 12 inch blade.

The two downsides I see are:

1. if you buy blades LOCALLY you may have a problem getting highend "consumer" blades like Forrest and Freud in "table saw blades" in the 12" size. Rarely do I see a woodworking shop carry 12" WWII or Fusion type of blades, usually their 12" selection are geared more toward miter saws and RAS.

2. The naturally increased tooth speed coupled with an increased arbor speed in the 12" saw you mention will require a higher feedrate to avoid burning.

I personally would not buy a new 12" table saw unless it was a slider but a good price on a used saw would make me look a little harder.

Rod also makes some excellent points about using 10" blades on a 12" saw, with that in mind and access to a local shop that bores arbor holes (most do) once that cost is factored in one really only needs to be worried about the potential feedrate issues.

[Mike Wilkins]

No downside to owning a 12" tablesaw, other than finding good quality blades. The local big box stores will not carry anything but thin-kerf blades geared toward miter saws. You will need to shop woodworking supply retailers for decent blades. My saw uses 12" blades, but has a 5/8" arbor. I have to utilize bushings to adapt to 12" blades, but see no downside. Nice to have the added depth of cut for cutting thicker timbers.

[Jeff Duncan]

No downside to owning a 12" tablesaw, other than finding good quality blades. The local big box stores will not carry anything but thin-kerf blades geared toward miter saws. You will need to shop woodworking supply retailers for decent blades. My saw uses 12" blades, but has a 5/8" arbor. I have to utilize bushings to adapt to 12" blades, but see no downside. Nice to have the added depth of cut for cutting thicker timbers.

Hmmm, gotta disagree there. Of course personal opinion influences what one would consider downside, but owning both a 10" and 12" saw I'll list the following as what I consider downsides of a 12" saw.

1) Need bigger blades = more expensive blades (or have re-bored...for more $$$)
2) Need to buy a bigger dado set or have one re-bored = more $$$
3) typically blade is much farther back on the machine making some cuts a bit
uhhhhm less ergonomic (though may not be an issue for this particular machine)
4) Most 12" saws will not allow you to use the plethora of aftermarket accessories
built for 10" saws....ie tenon jigs and whatnot.
5) Many 12" saws I've seen have no access to the cabinet from the front as most 10"
saws do. Meaning when you accidently drop the arbor nut it's an even greater PITA
to get it back.
6) Most 12" saws have larger motors which may push a small shops circuits to
or past their limit. Of course this could also be an advantage...just depends on the
shop!

Now I love having the bigger capacity of a 12" (I can actually use a 14" on my machine if needed), but I also wouldn't give up my little 10" Unisaw.

good luck,
JeffD