Cabinet Shelf Drilling Jig

[scott vroom]

I'm looking for recommendations on a professional quality jig and drill bits for drilling shelving holes into cabinet sides. I've got 3 large jobs coming up and need a jig that's easy to use, accurate, and high quality. Speed is important. I'm willing to spend money to get a good tool and am not interested in making my own jig.

Rockler's got this one but I don't know if it's any good:
http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=25379&source=googleps&utm_source=GoogleBase&utm_medium=organic&utm_campaign=Google


Thanks

[Dave Stuve]

I really like Lee Valley's Veritas shelf drilling jig - it's pretty speedy, flexible, and quite accurate. Just search their site for 'shelf jig'.

[Mike Konobeck]

+1 on the Veritas jig. It is very nice. Just used it on a set of built-ins and wow was it nice. You may need to buy the extra long rods though because the ones that came with it were too short for lowers (24"). If you are just using it in uppers then you are good. Use the Colt Twinland bits from Woodcraft. Just buy the mm and inch sets and you have all the drill bits you need for shelf pins and more. They are great sets and I use them almost exclusively. To make cleaning up the holes just buy a cheap countersink bit. I think the jig comes with a countersink that you use by hand but that gets old quick.

[scott vroom]

Thanks, Dave. Looks like a well thought out design; definately a top contender.

[Neal Wells]

+1 on Lee Valley Veritas Jig

I built two 7' sections of floor to ceiling shelving for my living room and 12 feet of 4 foot bookshelves in one bedroom. They have shelf holes every inch except the first eight inches at the bottom and last eight inches at the top. I used brass threaded push-in inserts with screw-in brass shelf supports. This was all done with the Lee Valley jig and every shelf is aligned perfectly. I can't recommend their jig highly enough! Over 2000 holes and every one was perfect. Resetting from one set of holes to the next is a breeze.

Neal

[John Lanciani]

Another vote for the Veritas. Also, I've used mine a couple of times now with the new DeWalt trim router (DW611P?) with the plunge base and a guide collar, I had a stock PC collar that is a perfect fit in the holes in the jig rails. The hole quality is more consistent than I was getting with a drill bit but that might just be a case of a dull drill and a fresh router bit.

John

[Lex Boegen]

Take a look at Woodhaven's shelf pin jigs. They are 1/4-inch phenolic, and come in either metric or standard sizes. You can use a plunge router with a collar or a drill.

[frank shic]

this is the one i use:

http://jandrdrilljig.com/index.html

although it's not well-advertised it's one of the few shelf pin hole drilling jigs that is actually long enough to bore a standard 30" cabinet side without having to reposition the jig. the ball-bearing drill bit is nice too.

[Jamie Buxton]

+1 on the Woodhaven jigs. They work well, and are less expensive than things like the Veritas. I strongly recommend a plunge router. It cuts with less tear-out. It also is sure to go in at right angle to the face of the board, and the depth stop is reliable.

[Bill Huber]

I can't recommend a jig, I made my own but I will recommend using a plunge router. The router makes a really clean hole and the depth is spot on every time.

You can use some pegboard to make a really good template for drilling the holes.

[frank shic]

plunge router shelf pin hole drilling is really tedious and slow. the tearout with drill driven jigs can be minimized with a faster rpm or a sharpened bit.

[Jeremy Greiner]

I have the Rockler Jig, it works well. I haven't used any of the other jigs so I can't compare ..

It is certianly fast. I've seen tips on taping up the holes you don't plan on drilling. I agree with this the first time I used to jig I didn't do this, and ended up drilling 2 holes I shouldn't have. Ever since then I take the extra minute to tape up the holes I'm not drilling with blue tape.

-jeremy

[Rob Wright]

http://megproducts.com/

Here's a thread from just a few weeks ago: http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?155647-Shelf-pin-drilling-jig

[Tim Sproul]

The Meg jig is fast.

I use the Veritas jig most because I don't to production cabinets.

I also like sleeved holes - more work but much more durable and IMO better aesthetic.

[frank shic]

that meg jig is nice but boring with a router is still much slower than using a power drill. if you want to use a router, i'd recommend using a clear base so that you can see the holes a little bit more easily rather than fumbling around trying to get the bushing to engage the jig hole. you may want to consider only selectively boring the holes you'll need rather than machine gunning it like a line drill would to save time.

[Jim Summers]

I have Rockler's basic version of the jig. Has worked well for my needs.

[Tim Sproul]

Frank,

With the MEG, you install a guide bushing/template collar on the router. The makes the plunge router faster than hand drill because the router spins faster than a hand drill and you don't need to turn the router off between holes.

[David Prince]

I can't recommend a jig, I made my own but I will recommend using a plunge router. The router makes a really clean hole and the depth is spot on every time.

You can use some pegboard to make a really good template for drilling the holes.

I used to use pegboard and a bradpoint bit, but was never completely satisfied with the results. I don't do a lot of shelf pin holes.

I bought this jig with the drill bit and am satified with the results. I didn't have any tear out issues and they go in pretty fast. http://www.woodcraft.com/Product/2080713/29324/15Hole-1-Spacing-Shelf-Pin-Jig.aspx

I don't think I will ever go back to pegboard.

[Bill Huber]

I used to use pegboard and a bradpoint bit, but was never completely satisfied with the results. I don't do a lot of shelf pin holes.

I bought this jig with the drill bit and am satified with the results. I didn't have any tear out issues and they go in pretty fast. http://www.woodcraft.com/Product/2080713/29324/15Hole-1-Spacing-Shelf-Pin-Jig.aspx

I don't think I will ever go back to pegboard.

I only use the pegboard as a template because the holes are all space out and I don't have to lay them out myself. I drill the holes out for a bushing on the router.

[Bill Huber]

plunge router shelf pin hole drilling is really tedious and slow. the tearout with drill driven jigs can be minimized with a faster rpm or a sharpened bit.

With a router and a bushing it is really fast and with a good down spiral bit I go NO tear out at all, the holes are really nice and clean. My jig is made of 1/2" MDF and I used a countersink on each hole at the top. I can slide the router over and drop it in the hole in a flash, plunge the router which is set at the right depth, then lift it and move to the next, really fast.

[frank shic]

but you still have to lift the router with each hole! i've tried this method before in the past and although the holes came out beautifully sharp, i got really tired of lifting the router each time to bore another hole. someone built a router shelf pin hole drilling jig in the past that was cut through halfway so that you could just slide the router to the next hole. that would be the ideal method for a fast router boring method. i use a lot of european hardware so i just gave up on the manual drill jigs and bought a delta line drill a few years ago. not cheap but incredibly fast!

[Rob Wright]

What I really like about the MEG jig (my clone that I cut myself) is that I put a piece of masking tape on the holes that I don't need. I only cut the 4 holes for the hinges and the 3 or 4 holes for a shelf and the few for the drawer slides. I don't end up with a cabinet side that is riddled with holes. Now when I cut them on the CNC I do the same - it takes a few more minutes to toolpath - but the result is much cleaner look IMHO. I have had the rockler jig in the past - and really prefer to use the router with a 5mm down spiral - no chips on melamine.

[pat warner]

"I also like sleeved holes "

What are these?

[kent borcherding]

cabinet shelf drilling jig
Scott ,

I prefer the Woodhaven 786 Kurka jig - reasonable price and works well.

Have used the Veritas jig a good jig , sold the one I had because prefer the Kurka.

Also if you call Woodhaven , if Brad is not busy will take time to talk to you about the jig.

[Brad Gobble]

+1 on the woodhaven jig ... I just did 50' of uppers last month and the woodhaven + a single quick clamp + the WoodCraft 1/4" collar bit worked great. The bit on the collar blew up on the last cab, but I have zero wobbles on any of the 34+ shelves.

[added] note on cost: I have less than $50 into my system. If cost were no object, I would do the Veritas. But for $170+ it had damn well better be perfect!

Also, I don't know if you can use the Lee Valley once the boxes are built. You can definately use the Woohaven jig before, during, or after assembly.

[frank shic]

"I also like sleeved holes "

What are these?

those are the holes with a metal insert sleeve:
http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=112&filter=shelf%20pin%20sleeve

meg jig looks like you have to set up the jig twice for front and rear holes. the kurka jig doesn't look too bad although i'm not sure if that middle row is adjustable? it'd be nice to have one jig which you could use for upper and lower cabinets although that may lend itself to increased potential for confusion. there's no need to drill as third row as the picture on the woodhaven web site shows - you can fit the hinge plates and the drawer slides into the same 37mm row of holes.

[Erik Christensen]

if you want production speed, ZERO tear-out and absolute accuracy AND you have the bucks nothing beats the festool setup

[Tom Hargrove]

I used to have a jig that used a plunge router, bushings and a spiral bit. With all due respect, I'm not sure why anyone thinks a jig that uses a router is slower than a drill based jig. A router with a spiral bit spins a whole lot faster than a drill and makes a cleaner hole. The jig can be made in 30-45 minutes (plus glue drying time) using a piece of MDF, masonite (or pegboard) along with some hardwood or construction lumber scraps.

[frank shic]

if you want production speed, ZERO tear-out and absolute accuracy AND you have the bucks nothing beats the festool setup

resetting the jig twice does not seem exactly like production speed although the window/cursor is a great idea if you mark the holes you want beforehand. tom, the problem i have with router based jigs is that most of them require you to physically lift up the router so that the bushing can clear the jig hole and then maneuver it into position for the next hole unless you're using a really lightweight router.

[Jeff Monson]

if you want production speed, ZERO tear-out and absolute accuracy AND you have the bucks nothing beats the festool setup

I'll second that one, I've watched a couple video's of the Festool setup and it is SWEET!! I'll stick to my pegboard setup for now.

[Wes Grass]

Never done any shelf holes ... yet ... but I think if I had a bunch of them to do I'd be looking for a carbide step drill to use in a plunge router. Even if I had to have it custom made. This will drill the hole and chamfer in one shot.

[Phil Thien]

I started with the Rockler kit. The plastic is too slippery (the jig wants to slide around). And short (which requires repositioning).

So I now make my own with 1/4" tempered hardboard (the stuff that is smooth both sides).

I cut a piece 74mm wide and as long as the inside of my cabinet.

I space holes every 1-1/4" inches. This is close enough to the metric (32mm) standard that hinges should work in my holes (although in full disclosure I haven't tried yet).

Now here is an important point: I mark/drill my holes in the guide very accurately. That is because I'm neurotic. You don't need CNC accuracy because you use the same jig for all four rows. If one hole is 1/100" off, it will be 1/100" off for all four corners of that shelf. It just won't matter.

Oh and I agree w/ Frank re: drill or router. The drill is much faster. The Rockler bit I have tears-out badly, but you can fix that my drilling in reverse to start the hole. Or do what I did: Get a different brand of bit. The replacement (non-Rockler) bit I got doesn't tear out at all.

[Bruce Wrenn]

Why would you want to commute in a Mack truck? Since you will be spinning either a 5 MM, or 1/4" bit, use the smallest plunge router you can. I use a B&D Quantum, which is the same as the smaller Elu that B&D used to sell. The new DeWalt would be my next choice.

[frank shic]

a sharpened drill bit is the key. my delta line drill uses carbide drill bits and there is virtually no tearout. while it's true that you can line bore with a CNC router, the pros usually don't do that unless it's selectively done for hardware and a few shelf pin holes... otherwise it's way too slow compared to an industrial line boring(drilling) machine!

[Steve Griffin]

179649I can make one almost as fast as I can order one.

Here's one I've used for years. It has an end stop and side stops on both sides.

1/4" melamine, 5/8" stops and 3/8" holes. I use blue tape to mark where to stop drilling--when doing such a boring task, you don't want to have to think....

I always use a drill--good enough for me. Also, I like 2" spacing in most cases. Less holes to drill and plenty of adjustability.

-Steve

[frank shic]

if accuracy is not critical for hardware placement, a self-made jig like the one steve posted is adequate for most purposes. i built a set of pantry cabinets using a home made router jig and my results were... less than accurate but with a little bit of force i was able to "coax" the hinge plates into place lol. afterwards, i bought the delta line drill :)

[Steve Griffin]

Thats a good point Frank. One of the keys to making a homemade jig easy to make and accurate enough is to have stops on both sides of the jig. I drill the holes on a drill press with a fence, so it's easy to drill holes in a straight line. And if I miss my layout mark by a 1/32 left or right, it doesn't matter--all the holes for that shelf will be at the same altitude.

-Steve

[David Hawxhurst]

i made one of these http://www.woodworking.org/WC/GArchive99/4_23holejig.html sized to the uppers i build 42". use a plunge router and template guide, it is by far the fastest thing i've used yet. no lifting of the router just slide it around to the next hole and plunge. took maybe 2 sec per hole. had four 42" side panels done in just a few minutes. have tried a couple of drill type jigs and there were not anywhere near as fast and easy to as the only i built (copied form woodworking.org link).

[Greg Portland]

Read my reviews on all the popular options here: http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?156282-Shelf-Pin-Jigs-and-Methods

The article is still a work in progress but you'll get some good info (hopefully!). Quick summary:

Fastest LR32 system (i.e. drawer slide holes, shelf pins, etc.) -> Woodhaven Kurka
Fastest drill system -> J&R jig
Fastest router jig (and fastest overall) -> WWA jig (DIY option which you're not interested in)

[frank shic]

what?!? we haven't said anything original??? lol oh well... that WWA jig is a stroke of genius. i'm surprised the major manufacturers haven't started producing them. i could foresee them offering a model which just does one row of holes and then another which has got the half-holes punched on both sides to account for a 37mm setback and a setback for the common drawer slides and then some kind of referencing mechanism...

[John Sanford]

Another vote for the Veritas. Also, I've used mine a couple of times now with the new DeWalt trim router (DW611P?) with the plunge base and a guide collar, I had a stock PC collar that is a perfect fit in the holes in the jig rails. The hole quality is more consistent than I was getting with a drill bit but that might just be a case of a dull drill and a fresh router bit.

John

John,

After you've had some more experience with the new yellah critter, could you do a review? I'm seriously considering roping one in to be my small router, taking over from the so-so Rotozip for that role.

[Greg Portland]

i made one of these http://www.woodworking.org/WC/GArchive99/4_23holejig.html sized to the uppers i build 42". use a plunge router and template guide, it is by far the fastest thing i've used yet. no lifting of the router just slide it around to the next hole and plunge. took maybe 2 sec per hole. had four 42" side panels done in just a few minutes. have tried a couple of drill type jigs and there were not anywhere near as fast and easy to as the only i built (copied form woodworking.org link).
David, add a plunge bar (http://www.chipsfly.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?page=W/PROD/A/12-240) to your router to really fly along. You can easily plunge with one hand while the other hand directs the router base / holds it in place.

[Gerry Grzadzinski]

while it's true that you can line bore with a CNC router, the pros usually don't do that unless it's selectively done for hardware and a few shelf pin holes... otherwise it's way too slow compared to an industrial line boring(drilling) machine!

Serious pros use CNC routers with drilling heads on them to drill 7-14 holes at a time. A line boring machine is far slower, and requires handling material twice.


For a hobby use jig, I'm in the plunge router camp. You can make a jig from MDF with a drill press and a 1/2" drill bit. I have both a base cabinet and wall cabinet jig, and can line bore a side with 20-30 holes in about a minute.

[frank shic]

Serious pros use CNC routers with drilling heads on them to drill 7-14 holes at a time. A line boring machine is far slower, and requires handling material twice.


For a hobby use jig, I'm in the plunge router camp. You can make a jig from MDF with a drill press and a 1/2" drill bit. I have both a base cabinet and wall cabinet jig, and can line bore a side with 20-30 holes in about a minute.

hmmm... i'd love to see that vid ;)