Drill bits, what do u suggest to buy?

[sunny nic]

I've been lurking for a while. Now I wanna ask ur expertise for advice. First thread.
In badly need of nice drill bits ( 3/8 inch and the 13/32 inch bits). It would be used to cut wood, metal or plastic. But I'm confusing what to buy. I've just looked into this Black & Decker 29pc Drill Bit Set (http://www.dealstudio.com/searchdeals.php?type=id&q=d218529&ru=28903693).Am I on the right track? Will I be disppointed? Any other good options? Thanks.

[John Coloccia]

I may be the weirdo in the group, but I buy them as I need them. I just haven't found I get good value from sets when I typically only use a few consistently. Especially for the kind of work I do, many of the drills I need don't even come in typical sets.

[Pat Barry]

I would buy a small set as opposed to John's method. Something with maybe 16 pcs up to 3/8" dia. I would buy Titanium Nitride. They hold an edge much better than standard high speed steel drills.

[Chris True]

Well, it is a $12 set. Dunno what your expectations are but you'll get $12 worth of bits ;).

These are excellent: http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/page.aspx?p=32241&cat=1,180,42240
The 29 piece set is $87. I'd recommend one of the smaller sets and then buy a select few of the large sizes you need. The brad points are also outstanding. Be careful with these bits, they are actually sharp unlike anything you get at the big box store. You can cut yourself on these.

I just bought about 6 individual bits to fill in the spaces in my set that have dissappeared over the past year+. Probably the first set I"ve ever done that too but they are good...

[sunny nic]

Well, it is a $12 set. Dunno what your expectations are but you'll get $12 worth of bits ;).

These are excellent: http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/page.aspx?p=32241&cat=1,180,42240
The 29 piece set is $87. I'd recommend one of the smaller sets and then buy a select few of the large sizes you need. The brad points are also outstanding. Be careful with these bits, they are actually sharp unlike anything you get at the big box store. You can cut yourself on these.

I just bought about 6 individual bits to fill in the spaces in my set that have dissappeared over the past year+. Probably the first set I"ve ever done that too but they are good...
The 29 piece set you refered to lookes great stuff.

[Bob Wingard]

Buy an "INDEX" full of standard sizes .. they can be bought in increments of 1/8" down to 1/64" ... only you know what your future needs might be. Get a bench grinder, and learn to sharpen them by hand. It is not difficult, once you understand the simple geometry of a bit and how basic it really is. I was shown how in a high school shop class almost 50 years ago, and I can still do it today .. although my vision isn't as good as it was back then, so my wife got me a Drill Doctor, but that's another story altogether.

A handful of bits and a smooth running grinder will do you well for a LONG time to come. An added advantage of sharpening them by hand is that you can custom grind for wood/metal/plastic as the need arises.

[Pat Barry]

I wouldn't use a brad point bit for anything but wood. Its a specialized design. The standard twist drills are general purpose which it was you were asking for. If you just want wood bits you may not need a set

[John Coloccia]

so my wife got me a Drill Doctor, but that's another story altogether.


Drill Doctor is one of those rare items that works exactly as advertised. Too bad there's no simple way to sharpen a brad point like that as well.

[sunny nic]

I wouldn't use a brad point bit for anything but wood. Its a specialized design. The standard twist drills are general purpose which it was you were asking for. If you just want wood bits you may not need a set

So what should I go with?

[Rich Tesoroni]

I've like the made in US bits from Enco. They have sales and free shipping offers pretty frequently.

Rich

[Kent Chasson]

I really like Black&Decker "Bullet" bits for general purpose. They are not expensive and are easy to center in wood and metal. The stepped point works great.

When you want a really nice set dedicated to wood, these brad points from Lee Valley are nice. http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/page.aspx?p=42247&cat=1,180,42240

Only complaint with those is that they often get a thin plug of wood stuck in the tip making it difficult to drill successive holes without stopping and cleaning.

[Keith Westfall]

Depending on what you are drilling, don't overlook a stepped drill. They come in a few different "step sizes", drill a nice hole and are great for things that are a bit soft (not usually steel). Plus they put a 'slight' chamfer on the hole when finished, which is a nice touch...

[Rod Sheridan]

Hi, you asked for a set of bits to drill wood, metal and plastic.

You've really asked for 3 different types of drill bits.

For metal, jobber length twist drills are the norm. A set of good bits in 1/64" steps from 1/16" to 1/2" will be expensive, so perhaps buy a smaller assortment. Pay more money than you are thinking of, good cutting tools cost money.

Plastic drill bits look just like metal twist drill bits except they're ground at a different angle to prevent them from screwing into the plastic and cracking it.

Wood bits come in many styles, for furniture use brad point and Forstner are the most common. Good drill bits run from a few dollars to thirty dollars each depending upon size. You get what you pay for, buy good ones one at a time, or buy a few common sizes.

regards, Rod.

[Matt Meiser]

The Snappy brand stuff also seems to be good. I bought the big kit at a show several years ago. I break small bits now and then and either replace them with Snappy or I found a local industrial/tool supply place and have been buying US-made bits that have been much better than anything from the home improvement stores. The brand they sell is Toledo Twist Drill, which ironically I buy in a suburb of Toledo, but are made in Minnesota or something like that.

I also have a giant index set my dad got me from another industrial supply house. Its been good.

[Scott T Smith]

Hi, you asked for a set of bits to drill wood, metal and plastic.

You've really asked for 3 different types of drill bits.

For metal, jobber length twist drills are the norm. A set of good bits in 1/64" steps from 1/16" to 1/2" will be expensive, so perhaps buy a smaller assortment. Pay more money than you are thinking of, good cutting tools cost money.

Plastic drill bits look just like metal twist drill bits except they're ground at a different angle to prevent them from screwing into the plastic and cracking it.

Wood bits come in many styles, for furniture use brad point and Forstner are the most common. Good drill bits run from a few dollars to thirty dollars each depending upon size. You get what you pay for, buy good ones one at a time, or buy a few common sizes.

regards, Rod.


+1 - Rod hit the nail right on the head, as usual.

One other item to take into account is how do you view your tools? Some people look at them as being disposable, some view them as being a lifetime investment, and some apply both philosophies depending upon the tool.

When I was in my teens, I would usually purchase hardware store drill bits and replace them when needed. In my 20's, I discovered machinist grade drill bits (Magnum's), and 30 years later I still use these same bits for my metal working projects. They work great and I can use them on tough steels such as spring steel. They are not cheap, but when amortized over a lifetime they have been a great investment.

My wood shop has some inexpensive TiN coated bits that work ok in wood but dull quickly in metal. Fortunately a Drill Doctor keeps all bits sharp.

If you're going to be drilling a lot of metal, I would suggest that you invest in some high quality drill bits and a Drill Doctor. If most of your work is in wood, you can save some $ by buying a lesser quality set. OR - you can buy an inexpensive set for wood and targeted sizes of higher quality bits for metal.

[Brian Kent]

Same here. I got a very small set that is very helpful in choosing bit sizes for starter holes. Enco / USA

[Rob Haskell]

American made drill bits from Montana.
http://www.montanabrandtools.com/default.aspx

[Jay Jeffery]

If you want something that will hold up drilling metal, bits with cobalt are the way to go. By "cobalt" I of course mean the elemental metal, not the Lowes brand "Kobalt." HD has a set in the Ridgid brand that looks to be priced pretty well if you can use a coupon.

I will second the recommendation that you learn to sharpen drill bits. Hand sharpening isn't hard. A belt of disc sander works well with a fine grit, but a bench grinder will get the job done if you use the side of the wheel. A drill doctor takes a LOT more time than sharpening by hand, but you can split the web and have a nicer tip.

For wood, though, brad point, spade, and Forster are the way to go.

[Kent A Bathurst]

+1 - Rod hit the nail right on the head.......

Ummm....Scott....that's a hammer, not a drill. :p


A number of yearrs ago, I "overspent" on one of the large drill index sets - 1/16" to 1/2" by 64ths. Except, it was one of the best things I did - there have to be a couple I've never used, but I always have exactly what I need. Some [especially the teenie ones] have a short half-life, and have been replaced many times, but the full set is still right there when I need something. I use these for metal and also for plastic [I don't do much plastic], and also for enlarging holes in wood if needed - like, taking 5/16" up by a 64th or 32d. But, I use brad point for wood.

Down the road, forstners are teriffic, but I don't think those are needed te get started.

[Rod Sheridan]

[QUOTE=Kent A Bathurst;1618471]Ummm....Scott....that's a hammer, not a drill. :p


QUOTE]

Kent, that was funny:D.............Rod.

[Scott T Smith]

Ummm....Scott....that's a hammer, not a drill. :p


A.

OK Kent - just for you...

Rod, as usual, drilled it dead center.

Happy now?

<grin>

[John Sanford]

I'm going to go somewhat agains the grain here and suggest going with a 29pc or so set of Split Point (B&D Bullet, DeWalt calls 'em Split) Yes, there will be bits in the set that you'll probably never use.

More importantly, there will be bits in the set that you will use, but you thought you'd never use. And becuase you have the set, you won't have to stop what you're doing and chase down a new bit.... 2 "hey, I have that bit here in the set" events and the savings in time covers the extra cost of the set.

As for quality, that's simple. Buy the biggest set of cheap bits you can from Harbor Freight. Use it, learn which ones you use most often. Buy those sizes in good quality bits. Keep the cheap bits. Those are the ones you loan out, or let rank amateurs (and the incorrigibly incompetent at drilling) use, etc. You use the cheap bits the same way you use cheap chisels, for rough work.

That's sorta my plan, and I'm sticking to it. I don't have my Lee Valley brad point set yet.... but I'm working on it.

[Kent A Bathurst]

OK Kent - just for you...

Rod, as usual, drilled it dead center.

Happy now?

<grin>

Much better, thanks. Try not to go off on those wild tangents, eh? :D

[Phil Phelps]

Buy an "INDEX" full of standard sizes .. they can be bought in increments of 1/8" down to 1/64" ... only you know what your future needs might be. Get a bench grinder, and learn to sharpen them by hand. It is not difficult, once you understand the simple geometry of a bit and how basic it really is. I was shown how in a high school shop class almost 50 years ago, and I can still do it today .. although my vision isn't as good as it was back then, so my wife got me a Drill Doctor, but that's another story altogether.

A handful of bits and a smooth running grinder will do you well for a LONG time to come. An added advantage of sharpening them by hand is that you can custom grind for wood/metal/plastic as the need arises.
Are suggesting that the Drill Dr. isn't what it claims to be? If so, then add me to your list. The Drill Dr. is the worst among worst tools I ever purchased. Maybe it was calibrated wrong from the factory but, mine is a complete joke.

[Scott T Smith]

Are suggesting that the Drill Dr. isn't what it claims to be? If so, then add me to your list. The Drill Dr. is the worst among worst tools I ever purchased. Maybe it was calibrated wrong from the factory but, mine is a complete joke.

Phil, it sounds like you may have gotten a lemon. I've had two Drill Doctor's (original version and a newer one), and I have been very pleased with both. What type of problems are you experiencing?

[John Cavanaugh]

Phil, it sounds like you may have gotten a lemon. I've had two Drill Doctor's (original version and a newer one), and I have been very pleased with both. What type of problems are you experiencing?

I just got mine and it took a little bit (no pun intended) to get used to it. I will say it is *very* important to watch the video.

I of course didnt think that I needed to watch it or read the directions, so I went ahead and tried to sharpen some bits doing what I thought was the correct process. When I tried them they were terrible, wouldnt cut properly etc. After watching the video and correcting my process (I wasnt aligning the bit properly) and now they are *much* better...

[Phil Phelps]

I just got mine and it took a little bit (no pun intended) to get used to it. I will say it is *very* important to watch the video.

I of course didnt think that I needed to watch it or read the directions, so I went ahead and tried to sharpen some bits doing what I thought was the correct process. When I tried them they were terrible, wouldnt cut properly etc. After watching the video and correcting my process (I wasnt aligning the bit properly) and now they are *much* better...
I can't leave out the possibility of OP error. But, time after time I got bad results. I read and watched the video many times. I'm not "that" slow. I can hand sharpen them better. However, it's been many years ago. I have forgotten exactly what the problem was except that I ruined many bits. May dig it out and retry.

[Marlena Corbett]

Hello Phil-

I don’t want to be intrusive so allow me to introduce myself. My name is Marlena and I am in the Marketing Department here at Darex, makers of the Drill Doctor. I was informed by a customer that you have experienced problems with your Drill Doctor and I would like to address any issues you have with your machine. As a small family owned business we take pride in knowing that each Drill Doctor customer is satisfied with their machine as well as with our company. If you let me know which machine it is that you have and the problem that you are having and I will personally make sure that the issue is resolved and that you will be 100% satisfied with your Drill Doctor! I look forward to hearing from you.

Have a great weekend.

Marlena