"Splitting" spindle turnings

[Jay Allen]

I have been comissioned to turn a few columns as trim for a bar. They are fairly large in diameter so sawing is not really feasable, so I figured the glue-up method was the way to go. I have heard about gluing a piece of paper between the parts at the center-line. Then splitting the pieces apart after turning, but I have never tried it myself. The bigger sections are about 6 1/2" in diameter and 9"-10" long. Should I just glue a smaller section in the middle? I certainly don't want it to come apart while turning, but I'm not looking for a huge fight when splitting.

[Richard Madden]

I have done the newspaper between thing with success, but on a much smaller scale. I have also tightly wired two pieces together that were glued with rubber cement. Again, on a much smaller scale.

[John Keeton]

Jay, while I have not done this in turning, in flat work I have used brown paper for gluing pieces together for machining, and then separating them. They held very well to the machining forces, which are shearing forces similar to turning. The force of "prying" is considerably different, and if you can access the joint from the end of the spindle, that would be where I would think best to lever them apart.

[Thom Sturgill]

If you are worried about splitting, and the tailstock could cause separation, glue (with paper) or screw endblocks on and remove them first after turning. you can turn a tenon for the chuck on one wasteblock so that you do not have to turn just between centers. This also helps if you want to make the center hollow to save weight and material.

[Don Geiger]

Dear Fellow Creekers:

As of late, I have been turning some projects that require two halves to be turned together then separated. I am using a good quality double sided tape (brand name Spectape) and I use a Steb drive center a Steb live center. I prefer to use these centers because they have a ring of teeth that grip the wood, thus holding them together while turning. Another advantage of the steb center is the center points are spring-loaded and retract when the quill of the tailstock is advanced. A standard center has fixed center points that, when driven into the wood, act as a wedge and force the two halves apart. I have been told by at least one knowledgeable well-known turner that he uses the steb centers without any double-sided tape or anything and the pieces he's never had a problem with the pieces flying apart. I opted to used the tape, especially when turning pieces that are large.

I recently turned two pieces of Poplar that, when taped together, were: 7.5" X 7.5" X 10". I started with a fairly low RPM and stopped a few times to make sure everything was holding together well and when I was s confident everything was OK, I worked my way up to higher RPMs.

Steb centers are available from Packard in three different diameters. I've bought the small and medium sizes.

Whatever method you choose to go with can have its risks. WEAR A FACE SHIELD WHENEVER TURNING ANYTHING LIKE THIS!



Don Geiger

[Mark Hubl]

Another trick I have seen used with a paper glue up is to use a couple of large hose clamps while turning the piece.

[Scott Hackler]

While I havent done a "split" turning, I have done an inside out turning with three pieces. I only glued the ends (waste area), clamped overnight and turned. I was also a little worried about the wood coming apart so I wrapped the ends, prior to turning, very tightly with 3 layers of filament packing tape. Afterwards I just cut the waste ends off and the three pieces fell apart.

[Don Geiger]

When making large cylinders from staves of wood, I place large hose clamps around the circumference of the cylinder at ead end to ensure the staves will not fly apart when I turn the cylinders round. You have to be very careful and not let your hands get hit by the screw mechanism. Also, be sure the tag end of the band follows instead of leads the screw. It would cut you big time if it's leading.

I bought a bunch of large clamps from SkyCraft surplus in Winter Park, FL for a buck each. I have found many uses for them.

Don Geiger

QUOTE=Mark Hubl;1617259]Another trick I have seen used with a paper glue up is to use a couple of large hose clamps while turning the piece.[/QUOTE]

[James Combs]

Another trick I have seen used with a paper glue up is to use a couple of large hose clamps while turning the piece.

I have used the large hose-clamp w/paper glue-up method with success.

[dan carter]

I have used construction paper many times successfully. However the past years, I use newspaper. I use Titebond Glue. Use plenty, make sure it has dried; if in a cold shop, 24-36 hours may not do it, so clamp the glued sections together and leave them to dry in a warm area. Usually I use a 1" sharp wood chisel to separate with a sharp rap with a towel placed under to help catch it. Good luck.

[Jay Allen]

Update. It worked out very well. The blocks were made up of several layers glued perminently with the break-apart (paper) seam in the middle. This result was a 8x8x8, I sawed off the corners, making an octagon. I then drew the necessary diameters on the ends and bandsawed the tapers to reduce the turning as much as possible. Once they were turned to the required shape, I split them with a chisel. They split very nicely.
I routed a groove in the flat side for a loose tenon for attaching the smaller shaft. After building a steady rest from an old rollerskate to taper the ends....the result is a huge golf Tee. 32" long and 7" in diameter.

[Nate Davey]

That came out awesome. Thanks for updating. Like the custom steady too