Griz 1023 owners-? on inserts

[Jerry Ingraham]

This may very well be universal but since I own a 1023 That's who I'm targeting. I want to make some zero clearance inserts and wondered, do you guys add the little roll pin at the forward end to slip under the table? Do you remove the little spring tensioners from the factory insert and install them on your wood inserts or just let friction serve for both items. With my old Craftsman, I just let friction hold it and have never had a problem but this saw is obviously quite a bit more powerful and starts quicker so I'm not sure if friction alone is enough to be safe.
while I'm at it, what about splitters? Homemade or what? Maybe someone would be kind enough to post or email me a pic of your splitter :o ? Thanks gang.

[Jim Becker]

The "pin" in the end of the insert is important as it keeps the insert from lifting when you raise the blade through it. This is particuarly important with a zero-clearance insert, especially in the beginning when the blade slot is "close". You only need a cut off finish nail or something like that, but do put it in for safety.

[Maurice Ungaro]

Jerry

I'm not a1023 owner, but I rely on friction. Also, be cautious to make the leading edge dead flat, if not slightly lower (1/64") than the table.

Maurice

[Ted Shrader]

Jerry -

I go with the friction fit. Once you get a good pattern made mark it as such and use it (as opposed tothe factory insert) only to make new ZCIs.

As far as the pin goes, you don't really need it. Put the fence over the new ZCI and then raise the blade. Make (obviously) sure the fence is not directly above the balde.

Ted

[Jerry Ingraham]

Ted, Placing the fence over the insert is how I always have cut the slots and have not had any problems but Jim points out that when the ZCI is tight, the potential for the insert to lift does exist and like I said, this new saw is pretty torquey :rolleyes: (is that a word?). So maybe a brad in the end is a good idea. Thanks guys.

[Terry Hatfield]

I used the finishing nail trick for my insert for the 1023. I also put a couple of screws into the sides of the insert in countersunk holes. You can use them to fine tune the friction fit of the insert.

Terry

<IMG SRC="http://www.terryhatfield.com/splitter2.jpg">

[Jerry Ingraham]

Terry,
Does that splitter just glue in the kerf? Is it knife edge shaped and how thick and tall is it?

[Steve Clardy]

Same as Terry. I use a finish nail for the pin. And I use a micro-jig splitter. The splitter has SAVED me a couple times this last week, those darn ol' pinching, kerf slamming boards. One of them pinched the splitter so hard, I couldn't push the board on through.

[Terry Hatfield]

Terry,
Does that splitter just glue in the kerf? Is it knife edge shaped and how thick and tall is it?


Jerry,

Like Steve, I use the MJ splitter now but that one worked well too. It is just a piece of white oak glued into the kerf. It's 3/4" wide and 1 1/4" tall. I did sand the front edge to make sure nothing hung on it. Got the design from a class I took taught by Kelly Mehler.

t

[Mike Linne]

The pin is non-optional and must be used for safety's sake. The pin keeps the insert from rising at the back due to the "blade entrained" air rush, also keeps the back from rising if you push down on the front edge of the insert with your workpiece. If the back rises, the sides of the insert will almost certainly contact the blade resulting in a kickback of the insert.

[Kelly C. Hanna]

I plan on using a finishing nail for the pin. I have traced my insert on two Oak boards....gonna cut them out tonite and get ready to install the MJ Splitter on one and glue a piece of Oak in the other one like Terry did.

[Jack Norfleet]

I use a small brass screw inserted at an angle (the point angled up). That way you can adjust the insert so the back doesn't rise at all by simply adjusting the screw.

[Jerry Ingraham]

I plan on using a finishing nail for the pin. I have traced my insert on two Oak boards....gonna cut them out tonite and get ready to install the MJ Splitter on one and glue a piece of Oak in the other one like Terry did.
Hi Kelly,
Just wondering why you're doing one in wood and one with the MJ? Is there a circumstance where one is preferred over the other or is it just a quick to grab backup?
By the way, I'm ordering an MJ today as well.

[James Mudler]

I use the factory plate and add a strip of hardwood under the cutout for the blade. That way I do not lose the pin or adjustments.

[Mark Duksta]

Here are some pictures of the insert I made for my 1023. The screws you see take up any slack. The screws are the ones used for attaching plug plates to the outlet fixtures. I did use a pin for the front. At times when the splitter is not in, I can see that the insert would have been pulled out if not for the pin.


Mark D.

[Kent Cori]

Mine look similar to Mark's although I used set screws for the vertical alignment. My template is sized so that I get a good friction fit and have not needed the side adjustment screws. If I ever do, I'll use Mark's solution.