With comments from here, I got the Ridgid Jointer, but...?

[Cyrus Brewster 7]

First, thanks for the answers to my original post about whether the Ridgid jointer was worth $288. I purchased it yesterday and finished assembly today. It really does appear to be a nice little machine. I think I will enjoy using this until I upgrade to a bigger one.

Here is the question: After setting everything up I went back over for a final check and noticed the table were slightly out of coplaner(?). I make the front of the tables flush (away from the fence). Then when checking the rear of the tables infeed table is slightly, and I mean SLIGHTLY, underflush of the outfeed table. I do not have my feeler gauges on me but I can see the faintest light coming through. I can also hear (not feel) a very small tap when I rocked my straight edge at the back but not at the front.

I ran a couple of pieces though and could not see any problems. Oh... the question - does anyone know how to adjust this or should I just bring it back. The only adjustments for the table I could find were the gib screws. The store has one more. Also, how perfect do both tables have to be? I do not mind adjusting things - it helps me get to know my machines.

Thanks.

[Paul Symchych]

I just looked at mine and there is a big knurled knob under the outfeed table -presumably to adjust that. I have never touched it and it has worked just fine from day one. I think the only thing to be concerned with is that the blade edge is on the same level horizontal plane as the outfeed table. If you are asking if both tables should be in exactly the same horizontal plane I think not.
As you describe it is set up so that it will take a very small sliver off, more if you crank the infeed down.
If the entire surface -that is both tables and the blade- were flush a pass would take nothing off.

From what you say it works. You know what 'they' say about something that works.
Enjoy the new toy. I still like mine.

[Jason White]

You can shim the dovetailed "ways" on the outfeed side. However, read some books or magazine articles on jointers before messing with things too much. Not too many machines are perfect right out of the box.

[Victor Robinson]

Joint the heck out of test boards, repeatedly (that's when you'll make any tapers or bows more pronouned). Long boards on edge, short boards on edge, long boards on face, short boards on face. If you are getting flat/straight faces (checked with a good straightedge lengthwise and crosswise) with no snipe, you're fine.

The key is making sure you're testing both short and long boards, both edge and face.

[Mark Ashmeade]

I paid a bit less, and I got what I paid for, a basic jointer. Mine has a similar issue, tables ever so slightly out of being coplanar. In practice however, it has no appreciable effect. I'm guessing that the manufacturing process has a certain tolerance, and the machines are within that. I get nice straight lumber out of mine, and it didn't break the bank.

Incidentally, the term is coplanar. Plane 1 is the infeed, plane 2 is the outfeed. If they are in parallel planes, they are coplanar. "Coplaner" is a nonsense term that implies two planing machines working together or some such.

[Cyrus Brewster 7]

Victor, I will try this in the morning. I have a feeling everything will come pout ok. Thanks.

[Chris True]

My 3 year old Rigid jointer started planing tapers a couple months ago while I was passing 100 board feet of maple for a work bench over it. After checking things out it had developed a .006 or .007 sag. I fixed it with shims at the top of the dovetail ways on the outfeed side, couple snips off a .0015 feeler gauge blade fixed the problem. The machine doesn't owe me a dime ;) it's been a workhorse.