incomplete mitre plane model

[neil schlosser]

I started a mitre plane model using sketchup. I thought I posted a thread on this yesterday, but now I can't find it. I have a basic idea of how I want to build the plane, but there are a few things I'm not sure on.

What I have so far: probably all steel construction, 2" iron, 20 degree bed, simple wedge or screw cap, no adjuster

What I'm not sure of: the length, how heavy I want it to be, which toe design, whether I should rivet or weld, how the bed should be built (considering wood)

http://sketchup.google.com/3dwarehouse/details?mid=a1dec77eec0181c459080f50cd41e686&prevstart=0

There are actually 2 models there, to accommodate my two toe ideas. They will be secured by a screw running from the top and threading into the 3/8" bar stock on the toe. I can't figure out how to get Sketchup to let me cut a slot right now, so it's not in there.

If this link doesn't work, just search for mitre plane, only a few models will come up.

I appreciate comments and suggestions on the plan so far, as I've never owned a mitre plane. I'm hoping to throw together my wood prototype next week, if all goes well.

[Jonathan McCullough]

I think the sides should be flush with the sole so that when you adjust the mouth, you don't have gaps at the sides. Sort of more like a conventional 9 1/2 block plane.

[Chris Fournier]

As you likely already know welding will introduce all sorts of movement to your tool and post welding you'll have to do some grinding to flatten and square everything up. I would likely only consider the TIG process for this tool.

[Jim Koepke]

My thought would be to lower the bedding angle if you can.

jtk

[neil schlosser]

It's kind of cold here today, and I don't want to be outside too much, so I played around with it some more. I made some modifications to pull the sides down flush with the sole, and it looks pretty good that way. I have to change a few thicknesses on things if I want to use rivets, but that should be minor. But it also corrects the problems I had with how to keep the toe lined up with the plane.

I had considered going with a lower bed angle (12 or 15 degrees), but went back to the traditional 20 degrees because I thought the iron might slip with the lower angle. I may use the lower bed angle if I can be convinced that it won't be a problem. I'm still avoiding putting an adjuster in.

[george wilson]

Are you leaving the end of the plane you push on square? It is a lot better if you make the end a half round(half of a circle). It won't hurt your hand as much if you make it round.

The front end is usually left square.

I did a search titled" a miter plane I made" at the top of this forum. This sent me to a google listing. Select the one that says "A solid silver miter plane"-or words to that effect. There is a picture of an authentic 18th.C. reproduction of a miter plane I made for a retiring vice president of Col. Williamsburg. It has the round rear,and square front end,and the wedge type you might like to see.

[Jim Koepke]

That is a beautiful plane George.

Here is the link to find it:

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?109305

jtk

[Leigh Betsch]

I'll be watching this thread as I have a hankering to build a miter plane also. Although I think I'd rather make one from wood. I decided to make a shoulder plane infil befor making the miter plane. I have a few more evenings before I will have it done.