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Doug Walls
01-20-2011, 10:45 PM
New to the forum!


I'm also registered on several other woodworking forums & I've seen a number of links on other forums directed to this site so I decided to register here also!


I've been looking for information on converting a Milwaukee 5625 into a set-up like the discontinued JessEm/Milwaukee 5626 with a remote power switch & variable speed controller. I have located most of the parts required, But have yet to find the original post that covered the conversion.
Has anyone here done this conversion? Or does anyone know of a link to the original site?

Doug Walls
01-22-2011, 11:28 AM
Well it looks as though I'll have to figure this one out on my own! As I mentioned before I have located all the parts to do the conversion & I may have even found a source for the complete controller used by JessEm. This way I would only have to replace the Electronic Feedback Module & wire in the control box.

Rick Moyer
01-22-2011, 5:53 PM
I can't help you Doug but welcome to Sawmill. 45 mins. may not be enough time to get the answers you need. I have also found that often there seems to be more responses thru the week than on weekends. I don't know if folks are woodworking on the weekend, or screwing off at work M-F by surfing The Creek!

Dave MacArthur
01-23-2011, 1:24 AM
Doh! He meant 2 days and 45 minutes! ;)
Welcome Doug! I read your first post with interest, as I'm always interested in talk of the big 3.25HP routers in a table, which ones work best, what lifts, etc... Didn't answer because I don't have any good info for you. However, PatWarner.com recommends just bolting the 5625 upside down to your top for great use, and other places I read recommend just using the triton with no lift. I do recall reading some threads here on 5625 with that conversion, and I just tried to find them for you, but our seach algorithms are not working as I expect after the software upgrade, and I'm not able to target the info for you.
Good luck though, and welcome!

Mike Goetzke
01-23-2011, 10:08 AM
New to the forum!


I'm also registered on several other woodworking forums & I've seen a number of links on other forums directed to this site so I decided to register here also!


I've been looking for information on converting a Milwaukee 5625 into a set-up like the discontinued JessEm/Milwaukee 5626 with a remote power switch & variable speed controller. I have located most of the parts required, But have yet to find the original post that covered the conversion.
Has anyone here done this conversion? Or does anyone know of a link to the original site?

I was one (if not the first) to convert one. But, I did mine before the electronics were available from Milwaukee. I had to slowly dig into the potted electronics - not recommended. I'll send you some info by PM if I can find it.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v212/mbg/My%20Tools/Milwaukee%205625/IMG_0466.jpg


http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v212/mbg/My%20Tools/Milwaukee%205625/IMG_0729.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v212/mbg/My%20Tools/Milwaukee%205625/IMG_0687.jpg

Doug Walls
01-23-2011, 3:28 PM
I was one (if not the first) to convert one. But, I did mine before the electronics were available from Milwaukee. I had to slowly dig into the potted electronics - not recommended.

If I had to dissect, cut, or alter the existing electronic module I doubt I would try it!

What I'm planing is just replacing factory parts, Sort of a plug & play type of mod. My plans are to remove the original 5625-20's power switch, And the speed control assembly also called a EFM (Electronic Feedback Module) then replace the EFM with one from a 5626-29 that's wired for a separate “table mounted” controller. The controller it self doesn’t seem to be available as a complete unit, but most of the components are able to be order through Milwaukee.

Rick Moyer
01-23-2011, 3:58 PM
I can't help you Doug but welcome to Sawmill. 45 mins. may not be enough time to get the answers you need. I have also found that often there seems to be more responses thru the week than on weekends. I don't know if folks are woodworking on the weekend, or screwing off at work M-F by surfing The Creek!


Doh! He meant 2 days and 45 minutes! ;)

No, I actually meant the 45 minutes between his original post and his second post saying he'll need to figure it out on his own. (no responses)
At least he's getting some info now.

Doug Walls
01-23-2011, 5:09 PM
No, I actually meant the 45 minutes between his original post and his second post saying he'll need to figure it out on his own. (no responses)


Doh! He meant 2 days and 45 minutes! ;)

Original post on 1/20/11 @ 10:45 PM
Second post on 1/22/11 @ 11:28 AM
36 Hours and 43 minutes but who's counting anyway!

Doug Walls
01-24-2011, 3:06 PM
I can't help you Doug but welcome to Sawmill.



Welcome Doug! I read your first post with interest, as I'm always interested in talk of the big 3.25HP routers in a table, which ones work best, what lifts, etc...


Thanks for the Welcome!Just to give everyone an idea of the type of conversion I’m looking for information on, And how I'm planning on doing it. I will attach some diagrams that may clear things up.


What I'm planing is just replacing factory parts, Sort of a plug & play type of mod. My plans are to remove the original Milwaukee 5625-20's power switch & the speed control assembly, also called a EFM (Electronic Feedback Module) then replace the EFM with one from a Milwaukee 5626-29 that's wired for a separate “table mounted” controller. The controller it self (part# 23-37-0175) doesn’t seem to be available as a complete unit, but most of the components are able to be order through Milwaukee.


5625-20 parts list http://www.milwaukeetool.com/CMS/Diagrams/54-37-0175.pdf
5626-69 parts list http://www.milwaukeetool.com/CMS/Diagrams/54-37-0250.pdf (http://www.milwaukeetool.com/CMS/Diagrams/54-37-0250.pdf)
23-37-0175 parts list http://genuinemilwaukee.yolasite.com/resources/54-30-0460.pdf (http://genuinemilwaukee.yolasite.com/resources/54-30-0460.pdf)

Rick Moyer
01-24-2011, 8:06 PM
Original post on 1/20/11 @ 10:45 PM
Second post on 1/22/11 @ 11:28 AM
36 Hours and 43 minutes but who's counting anyway!

Oops! My bad. I hate when I'm stupid.

William Rehak
03-22-2011, 7:39 PM
Hey there Doug....

the original posting regarding this conversion was in WoodNet. A very complete and thorough explanation was offered up. The thread in there has since expired. Something about a 365 day limit. There is another thread still active over in RouterForums.

http://www.routerforums.com/table-mounted-routing/14019-soft-start-variable-speed-table-setup.html

the 5626 (i believe is the correct #) is back and can be found on the bay for around 400.00.

Doug Walls
03-24-2011, 10:47 AM
The controller it self (part# 23-37-0175) doesn’t seem to be available as a complete unit, but most of the components are able to be order through Milwaukee.

5625-20 parts list http://www.milwaukeetool.com/CMS/Diagrams/54-37-0175.pdf
5626-69 parts list http://www.milwaukeetool.com/CMS/Diagrams/54-37-0250.pdf (http://www.milwaukeetool.com/CMS/Diagrams/54-37-0250.pdf)
23-37-0175 parts list http://genuinemilwaukee.yolasite.com/resources/54-30-0460.pdf (http://genuinemilwaukee.yolasite.com/resources/54-30-0460.pdf)
[/INDENT]
Here's part of an E-Mail I got back from Mike Schleuse at Milwaukee Tools;
The 23-35-0175 Control Box and individual service replacement parts are now available for purchase through your local Milwaukee Dealer or by calling our 1- 800- Sawdust line ( 1-800-729-3878) for additional information. mailto:mike.schleuse@milwaukeetool.com (mike.schleuse@milwaukeetool.com)

Doug Walls
03-24-2011, 11:09 AM
the 5626 (i believe is the correct #) is back and can be found on the bay for around 400.00.
Yea I have seen them on E- Bay also, Not as low as $400.00 though! “ thetoolstore.ca “ in Canada still carries them but their over $500 & shipping to the USA is another $40 - $50 I have been looking around for a reconditioned or used 5625 that I can do the conversion on, I also found out that the complete controller # 23-35-0175 is now available through Milwaukee.

Curt Harms
03-25-2011, 8:18 AM
That $$ makes a 1.5 h.p. shaper start to look pretty good.

Doug Walls
03-26-2011, 4:14 PM
Yea if you added up all the separate pieces; Router, Table Top, Stand, Fence, Router Lift, Etc. You can easily be over the price of an entry level shaper. Also with a shaper your getting a “True Horsepower” induction ran motor with a lot more torque & is designed to run for extended periods of time. The universal style motors such as used in routers, bench planers, and shop vacuums are designed to run for short periods & are rated by Peak HP or Developed HP which is just a manufactures way of stretch~~~~~~ing the truth.

steve siegrist
03-27-2011, 1:54 AM
Greetings! I’m a little late to this topic and trying to catch up. I’ve got a new rig; 5625-20 mounted in a PRL-V2 attached to Woodpeckers 24x32 MDF top. I’ve attached Rockler’s Dust bucket, Woodpeckers Sidewinder and a remote on/off switch. Totally forgot about access to the VSC! I partially solved the problem by removing the Depth Shaft Assembly. I’ve waded through the progressive experiences on RouterForums and am hoping for clarification. In Milwaukee’s Bulletin 54-30-0460 I see reference to Power/Control Box assembly (Router) 23-37-0175. Charles Day Company can order the assembly for me ($97.90) – but I am unclear as to whether the assembly contains all the parts I would need to effect a conversion?

Doug Walls
03-27-2011, 6:38 PM
There's still some questions on whether the Power/Control Box assembly (Router) 23-37-0175 is complete or not? Waiting on confirmation from Milwaukee! Besides the control box you will also need a New Power Control Cable #22-64-0400 & a New “EFM” Electronic Feedback Module #14-20-0095 probably about another $75.00 of parts.

steve siegrist
03-27-2011, 11:37 PM
So, if the Power / Control Box assembly is complete - by replacing the EFM and installing the new power cable between the router body and PCB assembly (and all goes well . . .) I hopefully will have a functioning remote control conversion? I'll wait awhile on ordering the parts in case there is a glitch re the PCB. Thanks for clarifying

Doug Walls
03-28-2011, 1:25 PM
Greetings! I’m a little late to this topic and trying to catch up. I’ve waded through the progressive experiences on RouterForums and am hoping for clarification.

TwoSkies57 just updated his post on “soft-start-variable-speed-table-setup” over on the RouterForums starting on page 15 he included a bunch of pic's including some from Casey that originally had the post on WoodNet.


The way I understand it; Is when JessEm was offering the 5626-68 package the controller part #23-37-0175 was listed by Milwaukee as a OEM part for JessEm only! Since JessEm is no longer offering the Milwaukee/JessEm product the Control Box is now available through Milwaukee.

Before this box was available the only way to convert a 5625-20 was to get the separate parts & build your own panel or box like TwoSkies57 did on RouterForums or Casey did on WoodNet.

Doug Walls
03-28-2011, 11:23 PM
I contacted Mike Schleuse at Milwaukee Tools mike.schleuse@milwaukeetool.com & I confirmed that the control box part # 23-37-0175 is a complete assembly.


Mike informed me that because JessEm is no longer offering the 5626-68 these control box assemblies are now available through Milwaukee. He also let me know that there's only 20 of these assemblies left in stock & once their gone that's it. I called the 1- 800- Sawdust line (1-800-729-3878) and placed my order.

Doug Walls
04-01-2011, 11:11 PM
My order from Milwaukee arrived today & the control box #23-37-0175 is the complete assembly that was offered by JessEm with the 5626-68, It's power-coated black & has all the JessEm labeling.

My camera is not working (software problem) But I see if I can borrow my brothers & get some pic's this weekend.

Doug Walls
04-03-2011, 9:00 PM
No luck on the camera! But I did find a pic on a old web site for JessEm. This is what the control box looks like.
190063

Bruce Schneider
04-08-2011, 12:42 AM
Doug,

Just to clarify one more time: The 23-37-0175 you purchased includes the:

1. on/off paddle switch (23-66-0155)
2. the variable speed control knob/potentiometer (23-18-0075/23-33-0505)
3. the mounting plate (part # unknown)
4. the power cord from wall recepticle to the switch unit (22-64-0445)

Right?

It does not include:

1. the 14-20-0095 ECM
2. the 22-64-0400 power control cable

Right?

Does it include the 06-57-5020 lock nut (which seems to be special)?

Thanx,

Bruce

Neal Clayton
04-08-2011, 11:33 AM
Doh! He meant 2 days and 45 minutes! ;)
Welcome Doug! I read your first post with interest, as I'm always interested in talk of the big 3.25HP routers in a table, which ones work best, what lifts, etc... Didn't answer because I don't have any good info for you. However, PatWarner.com recommends just bolting the 5625 upside down to your top for great use, and other places I read recommend just using the triton with no lift. I do recall reading some threads here on 5625 with that conversion, and I just tried to find them for you, but our seach algorithms are not working as I expect after the software upgrade, and I'm not able to target the info for you.
Good luck though, and welcome!

well, from having owned both, although using neither in a table, my opinions...

a) the tritons i'm not very impressed with, they're very light/plastic'y. i was able to tear the motor in one up in about a year using it in a leigh fmt.

b) the milwaukee is awful heavy. i think it would be a great table router (although i don't use mine for that, i use it for large bits that wind up getting used for manual cutting, like window sills and such), and considering the weight it would be quite annoying to use without a lift, i think. there is a fine adjustment knob, but i think it's a bit under-engineered, it seems flimsy for such a large router and i would suspect it of being prone to slip if you used it every day.

otherwise it's fantastic for a large router, though.

Kelly Colin Mark
04-08-2011, 12:00 PM
I would be very interested in this conversion, but like Bruce am unclear as to what is included in the control box assembly and what else I would need to order. If I had to buy the control box assembly for $97 and then the other parts for the estimated $75, I wonder whether I wouldn't be better off just selling my 5625 and buying the 5626 instead....

Doug, have you ordered all the remaining required parts and if so - how much did they cost ? I'm taking voiding of the warranty as a given....

Doug Walls
04-08-2011, 2:55 PM
Doug,
Just to clarify one more time: The23-37-0175 you purchased includes the:
1. on/off paddle switch(23-66-0155)
2. the variable speed control knob/potentiometer(23-18-0075/23-33-0505)
3. the mounting plate (part # unknown)
4.the power cord from wall receptacle to the switch unit(22-64-0445)
Right?Bruce

Yea the control box #23-37-0175 is the complete assembly including the black power coated aluminum box with JessEm's labels! All 18 parts as seen in Bulletin #54-30-0460, Everything’s Assembled & wired ready to plug into the wall & connect to the routers power cable.



Itdoes not include:
1. the 14-20-0095 ECM
2. the 22-64-0400power control cable
Right?
Bruce

Yea I also had to purchase a “NewPower Control Cable” part #22-64-0400 which was $26.80
& a new EFM (Electronic FeedbackModule) part #14-20-0095 which was $47.80

My total came to $182.85 which included $10.35 for tax. There was a mess-up on their shipping so I wasn't charged any shipping charges.

Bruce Schneider
04-08-2011, 3:15 PM
Kelly,

After posting the questions to Doug, I went back to the Router Forums and re-read everything I could on this conversion and think I have it straight. I believe there are actually no parts you 'HAVE' to buy from Milwaukee. The Electronic Control Module (14-20-0095) is desirable for two reasons; it allows external control of the speed without digging into the potted electronics of the original ECM and it includes blanked out covers for the speed control wheel and the rocker switch.

The cord from the new ECM to the external controller (22-64-0445) is nice because it encases the power to the motor and the speed control wires into a single unit.

The Potentiometer (23-33-0505) is likely easily replaced by an off the shelf part but it would be helpful to know the resistance range and the amperage requirements.

The main reason I would like to avoid the Milwaukee/Jessum control module (other than cost) is that I want to seperate the speed control from the on/off switch and use a large paddle hip high emergency stop.

So If I would by the new ECM @ $47.20, the cord @ $11.60, the potentiometer @ $21.45, your 5625 @ $50.00 and that darn locknut @ $1.30, I could have a pretty nice setup for under $150.00.

What do you think?

Bruce

Doug Walls
04-08-2011, 3:25 PM
If I had to buy the control box assembly for $97 and then the other parts for the estimated $75, I wonder whether I wouldn't be better off just selling my 5625 and buying the 5626 instead....
JessEm is no longer offering the 5626-68 & the only place I have found that still has some left in stock is in Canada!thetoolstore.ca still has them at $549.99 & Shipping to the USA is about another $40~$50 So around $600 total! If you have the 5625 already then it would only be about $200 for the conversion.

Doug Walls
04-08-2011, 11:05 PM
I believe there are actually no parts you 'HAVE' to buy from Milwaukee.The Electronic Control Module (14-20-0095) is desirable for two reasons; it allows external control of the speed without digging intothe potted electronics of the original ECM and it includes blankedout covers for the speed control wheel and the rockerswitch.
That module is called a “EFM”(Electronic Feedback Module) & it's placed on top of a tachometer that sends RPM info to the EFM which then regulates the power to maintain the set speed. If you were to dig into the potted electronics you would need to make sure that you also tied into the “Feedback Circuit” or else you would not get the benefits of increasing power/torque as the load changes.


ThePotentiometer (23-33-0505) is likely easily replaced by an off theshelf part but it would be helpful to know the resistance range andthe amperage requirements. Besides the resistance range & the amperage requirements you pointed out, You would also need to come up with some way to disconnect the potentiometers wiring from the router's wiring so you can clean or service the router.
Part #23-33-0505 is a assembly containing the potentiometer & matching 5 pin receptacle that the control cable plugs into.


The cord from the new ECM to the external controller (22-64-0445) is nice because it encases the power to the motor and the speed control wires into a single unit.
That part # is just a normal power cord! Black, White, & ground wires with spade terminal connecters. It's used to supply power to the control box.

The one you would want is part#22-64-0400 (Power Control Cable) which has the 5 pin connecter on one end (mates to receptacle on potentiometer assembly) The other end of the cable has a 3 pin connecter that matches the pins on the EFM, plus the white & black wires for power to the EFM.


The main reason I would like to avoid the Milwaukee/JessEm control module (other than cost) is that I want to seperate the speed control from the on/off switch and use a large paddle hip high emergency stop.

If I wanted to do the conversion like that I would get the following;

EFM part # 14-20-0095 $47.80

Power Control Cable part # 22-64-0400 $26.80

Receptacle/Potentiometer Assy. Part #23-33-0505 $21.45

Of course you would have to wire in your own power supply cord & switch assembly.

Doug Walls
04-08-2011, 11:48 PM
I'm taking voiding of the warranty as a given....
Yea that's why I'm looking for a used one in good condition or better yet a reconditioned one. I have several tool supplier that carry reconditioned tools looking out for one. When I found out that Milwaukee only had 20 of the complete control boxes left & when their gone that's it, I figured I better get one while I can.
I may just end up buying a new 5625, In that case I would make sure to keep the original EFM & Power Cord. If I had a problem with the motor I could always put it back together & try my luck!

Bruce Schneider
04-09-2011, 6:43 AM
Doug,

Thanx again for the information. As you point out, I gave the wrong part number and description for the cord. I also apologize for calling the EFM, "the ECM". I hate it when people change terminology halfway through a thread. It adds to the confusion.

Anyway, you understand what I would like to do, having the on/off switch divorced from the speed control.

By the way, today's pricing for the 05626 Milwaukee on eBay is $479.00. Amazon has the 5625 for 279.90. both with free shipping. So you could buy the Amazon router add the parts you bought for $182.00 and save $17.10. I bet that because Milwaukee has these parts available, the resellers were forced to lower their pricing.

One last thing, do you or any of the others following this thread know how one might tap into the tachometer circuit to get a signal for a digital tach. Not that it is necessary, but wouldn't it be neat?

Bruce

Doug Walls
04-09-2011, 12:01 PM
By the way, today's pricing for the 05626 Milwaukee on eBay is $479.00. I bet that because Milwaukee has these parts available, the resellers were forced to lower their pricing.
Do you have a current link for the 5626 on e-bay? Others following this thread may be interested in it!
All the places I have checked with except for the tool store in Canada don't have them in stock.

Bruce Schneider
04-09-2011, 12:40 PM
Doug,
This is where I got thew info. This is out of Canada but I don't know if this is the one you were watching.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=250792735153&viewitem=&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWAX%3AIT

BTW I put the 5626-68 number in the Charles Day part search and it shows as an OEM replacement motor for $2800.00! I'll take seven.

Doug Walls
04-09-2011, 2:49 PM
Thanks for the link!

Yea I seen that on Milwaukee's site also! That's the same thing I came across when I was looking for the control box, It originally came up like several thousand also. After talking to Mike Schleuse at Milwaukee I learned that the OEM in front of the part # makes it a Vendor's part #. That $2800 is probably for a case or pallet of replacement motors.

Doug Walls
04-09-2011, 3:22 PM
One lastthing, do you or any of the others following this thread know how onemight tap into the tachometer circuit to get a signal for a digitaltach. Not that it is necessary, but wouldn't it be neat?

I'm not that familiar with electronics to start digging into them but if I were to guess :eek:

I would figure the sensor is under the metal plate on top of the EFM. Everything else is covered in epoxy so getting to the circuit board would be a challenge.

Doug Walls
04-09-2011, 4:41 PM
Here's some drawings of the old & new EFM'S

Old EFM 5625 http://www.milwaukeetool.com/CatalogItem/Attachments/12966_58-01-0716.pdf

New EFM 5626 http://www.milwaukeetool.com/CMS/Diagrams/58-01-0718.pdf