breaking down plywood, how many horses?

[Bruce Seidner]

I picked up a nifty WoodRiver Clamp guide and 50" clamp from my local WoodCraft on a half off sale. It is a Base for Routers and Circular Saws and decently made for a weekend warrior like myself. I could not afford the Festool plunge saw system and had a "poor relations" substitute in mind for breaking down sheets of plywood.

I could probably shoe horn my ancient Craftsman 7.5" circular saw into this guide but have been eying smaller saws to dedicate to this guide and "system."

I plan to use this to break down sheets of ply that are from 1/4" to 3/4", so my thinking is that I can use a smaller saw. I have thought these small battery powered saws are pretty damn cute but wonder about their ability to get through a sheet of quality no void hardwood ply.

I am open to suggestions. I would like to use the smallest circular saw I can get away with corded or not to fit and set up in this guide. I need to keep it under a hundred bucks so this rules out the various plunge saw models I have seen. My 30 year old Craftsman is still a reliable remedy for construction type projects but I was wanting something a bit smaller and hopefully more refined for installing in this guide.

Thanking all in advance.

Bruce

[Steve Schoene]

I don't see much point in going with a smaller saw. You aren't framing up in mid-air where the weight would really be a disadvantage. But having plenty of power is always an asset. The one thing you do need is to make a zero clearance base to reduce chipout as you cut. The other thing to find a really good blade. That will use up $40 or more of your budget. If you aren't going for the Festool or DeWalt plunge saws, then there isn't much refinement needed beyond having a sturdy enough base and minimal runout with the blade.

[Tom Ewell]

Under a $100 might send you down the road of reconditioned tools.

I've picked up some drills from these folks with success.

http://www.reconditionedtools.com/circular-saws/circular-saws,default,sc.html?start=0&sz=12

[Mac McQuinn]

I use the same system to cut all my sheet goods, 50" tool guide, two adjustable height saw horses with sacrificial 2X tops and I use a Ridgid Fuego 6.5" thin kerf bladed circular saw which cuts very precise and at 8Lbs is smooth & easier to handle than most. Once you know your cut distance from guide you can do your layout and cut with 1/8" margin easily. The Ply cutting scale on handle is accurate and easy to use. You will not be short of power whatsoever, it charges through a 2X like nothing. This system really saves the back and man-handling a 4X8 sheet of Nova Ply through the TS by yourself is a thing of the past. I think HD has knocked the price of this saw down to $99 or so. Good luck!

Mac

[Van Huskey]

If they are Clydesdales you only need one, Thoroughbreds you will need 2 but they will get done much faster!

I would look for a deal on a Makita.

[Eiji Fuller]

I have a makita 5 3/8" circular saw I love. It spins at 8000 rpm and makes an excellent cut but a blade spinning that fast really fills the air with dust. Thats why I mainly use the festool saw. I had the makita 4 1/2" saw which is awesome too, that thing was a banchee too, spinning its blade at 11000 rpm.

[steven c newman]

Two horses, with three 8' 2x4s screwed to the tops. You then clamp the plywood in place using the 2xs, and a set of quick-clamps. As for a light weight saw, I seem to recall that Milwaukee makes a nice light 7-1/2" saw. Another thing, IF you can, suspend the power cord overhead, with just enough "play" to reach the plywood. That way, you don't have to worry about it getting in your way, and maybe cutting more than wood.


"Wild, wild horses...we'll ride them...someday"

[David Thompson 27577]

{You said a bunch of stuff, then you said:}........ I have thought these small battery powered saws are pretty damn cute but wonder about their ability to get through a sheet of quality no void hardwood ply.

{Then you finished with some more stuff said}

Just an opinion here, but my opinion is that battery powered circular saws are nowhere near what they'd need to be for me to use one, ever. They're not powerful enough even on a full charge. And they run down the batteries very quickly.

I'll bet that you can think of a way to adapt an existing corded saw so that it works well with the clamp-guide you just bought. Maybe make a 1/4" thick base for it that acts not only as the "sled", but is also the zero-clearance device as well. Now all you need to do is make it so that it rides against the clamp/guide nicely -- which sounds fairly simple to me. Maybe if you add some low-height sides to the 1/4" base, and have some straps that go over the saw's original base -- that would hold the add-on base in place. (Straps, maybe even some rubber bands?)

Oh -- and how many horses? I use two, with sacrificial 2X4's (on edge) going between them, sort-of railroad rail style. I then lay another 2X4, on the flat, between them. This helps when the cut is lengthwise, catching the piece that would otherwise try to hit the ground between the horses.

And I've seen others who have built a framework of 1-by material on edge, using notched half-lap joints. The whole thing comes apart very easily for storage, has no fasteners to get hit by the saw, is quite flat and strong, and easily replaced when enough kerfs have riddled it. These need to be made to fit your pair of sawhorses of course.

[Charles Goodnight]

I use a big old circular saw I bought at a garage sale. The guy was selling it because it was heavy and noisy. I bought it because it was cheap and powerful. Power is good.

From the title I thought you meant how many saw horses. I built myself a wood scaffold to sit on two saw horses and hold two 2X8 sheets of styrofoam insulation. I just set the blade depth so it cuts 1/4 inch into the insulation. It fully supports the plywood so that it barely moves when the cut is done.

I also use a saw board, but if you have the clamp guide, it sounds like that is a story for another time.

[Erik Christensen]

power is good - bigger is better

7 1/2" saw blades are more common with more choices for type & tooth count; you think you'll only cut a 3/4" sheet till you realize you need to cut a bunch of the same size pieces - being able to stack & cut multiple sheets at once can save a bunch of time and increase accuracy.

example - i had to cut a bunch of hardiboard strips for a deck railing tile job, 7 1/2" blades for just that purpose are readily available at the BORG & cutting several sheets at once was a good thing

[Jon McElwain]

Just an opinion here, but my opinion is that battery powered circular saws are nowhere near what they'd need to be for me to use one, ever. They're not powerful enough even on a full charge. And they run down the batteries very quickly.

Sorry, gotta disagree here based on experience. My dad bought an 18v battery circular saw and the thing crosscuts 2x's and rips plywood with ease. I only ran it a dozen times or so through a 2x6, then perhaps 10' worth of cuts through some 3/4" plywood but it was still running plenty strong. Now, the saw will not cut all day for sure, but for breakdown on two or three sheets of plywood it would work just fine.

[Bruce Seidner]

This is all well thought and good advice. I think I will start with the blade. Having chosen the blade I will see if my existing saw cuts straight and clean with little run-out or if I need a new saw. Then I will take my mounting plate with me as I check out the offerings. But, given I am cutting ply on a stable horizontal surface it likely does not matter what size it is so long as it is true and powerful.

thanks for the thoughts. its helpful.

Bruce

[Keith Hankins]

I have the Festool TS55 track saw now and it's nice. Before that I had the following setup that worked well. Nowhere near as nice as the festool, but it worked. I had the portercable 7 1/4" circular saw with magnesium base. I liked that saw for three reasons. First its light, second it's resonalbly priced, and finally, from edge of the base to the edge of the blade was a fixed measurement so you knew how far from the line to place your clamp edge. In the saw I put a forrest WWII and it would give me a perfect edge! To cut it I went to lowes and a 3" thick 4x8' sheet of insulation. Not the cheap stuff the stuff you can stand on and not dent it. Put that down on the floor, and put your ply on that good face down. Set your blade 1/2 tooth below th eply and go to town. It makes cutting very easy. I have not lifted a sheet up on horses for a long time! After I sprung for the festool, its been a pleasure!

[scott vroom]

Bruce,

I'm curious what type of table saw you own, if any.