Tiny pits in granite/marble a problem???

[Tim Neal]

I was thinking about engraving, then color filling 4 12" absolute black tiles to put together in a 4' x 4' mosaic. On close inspection I can see small pits in both the marble and granite samples I have. I was wondering if the small pits would present much of a problem when color filling. I'm thinking the pits will hold the fill material and muddy up the background. I do know that others color fill this material and don't seem to be having a problem.

[Gary Hair]

That won't be a problem if you use a mask of some sort, either transfer tape or sandblasting mask.

Gary

[Bruce Volden]

If you don't want to mask (I hate the weeding) use a paste wax and blow through that. Then colorfill, let dry and buff off-wax and all.

Bruce

[Tim Neal]

If you don't want to mask (I hate the weeding) use a paste wax and blow through that. Then color fill, let dry and buff off-wax and all.

Bruce

Yeah...masking was the obvious solution, but I too don't want to have to pick off the hundreds of tiny islands of mask that will result from lasering. What's the process for using paste way? Do you put it on in a thick coat so it fills the little crevasses?

[Bruce Volden]

Yep, I've always slathered it on----paste wax is thick anyway----to where I know things have a good coat, laser my tile and then buff it off when the colorfill has completely dried. The wax makes a nice surface finish and does provide a temporary protective layer.

Bruce

[Tim Neal]

Yeah...masking was the obvious solution, but I too don't want to have to pick off the hundreds of tiny islands of mask that will result from lasering. What's the process for using paste way? Do you put it on in a thick coat so it fills the little crevasses?

Thanks Bruce! I have a can of Turtle paste wax in my shop...I'll give it a shot.

[Bill Cunningham]

You don't have to pick off thousands of little pieces, just put the plate in a tub of warm water, let sit for a bit, and rub off the mask. You should rinse off granite after engraving anyway. If you don't and you use a oil paint fill, rubbing off the excess may cause the unwashed off granite dust from the engraving to scratch the surface.

[Tim Neal]

You don't have to pick off thousands of little pieces, just put the plate in a tub of warm water, let sit for a bit, and rub off the mask. You should rinse off granite after engraving anyway. If you don't and you use a oil paint fill, rubbing off the excess may cause the unwashed off granite dust from the engraving to scratch the surface.

...and what type of mask would that be that rubs off after soaking? I've only used painters tape in the past for smaller objects.

[Dan Hintz]

...and what type of mask would that be that rubs off after soaking? I've only used painters tape in the past for smaller objects.
Vinyl transfer tape... the glue they use practically runs and hides from water.

[Tim Neal]

OK guys. I did a little searching since I knew nothing about vinyl transfer tape. I now know that weeding can be something other than what I do in my garden. I see that it comes in wide sizes which will make it efficient to apply to larger surfaces. I also see some that say "not good for wet applications", and some that say "works well in wet applications". What exactly does that mean with regards to using it as a mask, with the hope of easily removing it with a water soaking. Thanks.

[Bill Cunningham]

I have no experience in using it with vinyl, But I get mine from my neighbor who is a sign maker, and uses this stuff all the time. The surface must be dry to get it to stick, (I use the heavy tack stuff) Then just laser through it.. I also use it to test mark items at high speed/low power before engraving for position etc... A little black liquid shoe polish (or Turtle wax, black color cure car polish) will blacken it to allow contrast after it's stuck to the piece. (this is less expensive and works better than painters tape) Putting it on Black granite, then colouring it black, will allow you to have a look at the image placement when etching photographs. When it looks right, just peel off the mask, and etch/ I never etch photos in granite though a mask, only text if close colours are required which is not very often.

[Tim Neal]

I have no experience in using it with vinyl, But I get mine from my neighbor who is a sign maker, and uses this stuff all the time. The surface must be dry to get it to stick, (I use the heavy tack stuff) Then just laser through it.. I also use it to test mark items at high speed/low power before engraving for position etc... A little black liquid shoe polish (or Turtle wax, black color cure car polish) will blacken it to allow contrast after it's stuck to the piece. (this is less expensive and works better than painters tape) Putting it on Black granite, then colouring it black, will allow you to have a look at the image placement when etching photographs. When it looks right, just peel off the mask, and etch/ I never etch photos in granite though a mask, only text if close colours are required which is not very often.

Bill and/or Dan,

What I'm trying to nail down is, is there a specific type of vinyl trasfer tape that I need to look for, that I can be assured will come off with a water soaking. Or, is this a prperty of all vinyl trasfer tapes? I'd hate to buy a roll of this stuff, then can't use it. Thanks.

[Scott Shepherd]

Just to clarify, it's not a "vinyl transfer tape", it's transfer tape used with vinyl. I know Dan knows what it is and means, but it was typed in a way that could be confusing. It's a paper tape, with, as Dan said, an adhesive that doesn't like to be wet.

Tim, the "not good for wet applications" deal- some people use what's called application fluid to put vinyl down. That's called a wet application. There are clear transfer tapes that won't allow for the application fluid to evaporate, so the wet part never dries and the adhesive won't stick. The paper tape will allow the application fluid to evaporate.

All you need is medium tack application tape. Light tack might also work, but certainly not high tack. That would work, it would just be stickier than you need.

You can spray the tape with application fluid and in about 2 minutes, it will wrinkle all up and just about fall off. So I'd guess water does the same thing to it.

[Tim Neal]

Just to clarify, it's not a "vinyl transfer tape", it's transfer tape used with vinyl. I know Dan knows what it is and means, but it was typed in a way that could be confusing. It's a paper tape, with, as Dan said, an adhesive that doesn't like to be wet.

Tim, the "not good for wet applications" deal- some people use what's called application fluid to put vinyl down. That's called a wet application. There are clear transfer tapes that won't allow for the application fluid to evaporate, so the wet part never dries and the adhesive won't stick. The paper tape will allow the application fluid to evaporate.

All you need is medium tack application tape. Light tack might also work, but certainly not high tack. That would work, it would just be stickier than you need.

You can spray the tape with application fluid and in about 2 minutes, it will wrinkle all up and just about fall off. So I'd guess water does the same thing to it.

Scott - Thank you for the thorough explanation. You cleared up some confusion I had, and answered all my questions. I'll be able to proceed from here.

Thanks again to everyone who responded.

Tim

[Bill Cunningham]

Like I said, I don't use the stuff with vinyl.. For most laser applications the light or medium tack is fine, but I also use mine as a sandblasting mask for light blasting, and quick jobs. Just roll it down tight, laser through it, and give it a light blast in the cabinet. The high tack hangs on better than light or medium, so I just use the high tack for everything..