Grizzly 6" flex and pvc

[Rick Moyer]

OK, how do you get this to fit over 6" S&D? Has anyone done this? I haven't tried powder or lubricant yet, just wondering if anyone else has this combination and what they did.

It's the heavy-duty 6" wire reinforced clear. My part number was H1445. It is made by woodstock. Their number is W1036.

[Peter Aeschliman]

I have the same flex hose with ASTM 2729 (I think) PVC. You're right, it won't fit. What I did was applied heat to the PVC pipe with a torch. If you slip some hose clamps over the PVC before heating the pipe, you can tighten it down on the pipe when the heat makes it soft. If you don't go crazy with it and you take your time, you should eventually get to the dimension you need to fit the flex hose.

You'll get some brown discoloration on the pipe, so it won't look nice. But it works. Make sure to do it outside as the fumes are probably bad for you.

[Bob Riefer]

Not answering your question, but just a point of information:

I'm using 4" PVC (yes, I know, 6" is better) and was considering the blast gates that Grizzly sells. The technical specialist I emailed with couldn't give me a straight answer on whether the fittings were compatible with 2729 PVC (also called SD or Sewer/Drain or Thin Wall PVC). I literally asked 3-4 times and each time I was told to purchase extra fittings and hose clamps to make it work... which sort of defeats the purposes and the cost benefit. So I did not purchase from them.

[Ed Hazel]

The easiest way I've found to connect the hose to sewer drain pipe is to make a sleeve. Take a short piece of your pipe maybe 5 inches and then cut it lengthwise you can then overlap the cut joint and stick it inside the sewer and drain pipe and mark how much it overlaps and then cut on your pencil mark, this will give you a sleeve that fits perfectly inside the sewer and drain pipe. You can repeat this process to make it even smaller. You might also look at getting a metal adapter that goes from 6 inches to 7 inches if I recall six-inch sewer drain pipe is about 6 5/8 inches on the outside.

[Matt Benton]

Put the hose over the pipe on one side, then use a screwdriver to pry the opposite side on. You'll probably need to stretch the wire inside the hose to make it fit, but you should get enough on to make the clamp work....

[Matt Meiser]

Someone else posted a trick here that I tried recently. The hose I have fits snugly inside the hubs of the fittings. Snug enough that it is very secure and basically self-sealing, though you could still use a bead of caulk or foil tape.

[Eric Kipker]

Ditto with Matt, I use wire lube to insert the flex into a coupling or other fitting then fasten the two together with 3-1" sheet metal screws through the coupling and flex hose. I have mounted to each machine a short piece of 6" pvc pipe. That way I can slip the coupling onto the tool and remove it to attach it to another piece of equipment in a matter of seconds.

[David Hostetler]

Not about the hose issue, but on the blast gates. I am not sure about Grizzly, and no clue about 6" since I am using 4", but I know the Lee Valley 4" self cleaning aluminum blast gates fit just inside 4" S/D PVC and seal up snug with a thin layer of clear silicone sealant.

[glenn bradley]

I do a combination of what Ed and David suggest as I have both sizes. A short piece of pipe with one cut in the wall lengthwise allow the diameter to be reduced. This then becomes your "adapter" that will slide inside the pipe and allow the hose to slip over the other end. I do the same thing to make a 6-to-4 adapter ready to accept my 4" aluminum gates.

179112179113

Here the adpater is a short section of a different type of pipe as the wall thickness suits my purpose. I use it to reduce the internal diameter of the 6-to-4 as the gate's nipple slides into the adjusted opening. If the "adapter is made twice as long it will extend out of the pipe and be available to slide the hose over and clamp. Your version wou be all 6" but, you get the idea.

P.s. Its not just Grizzly's hose, its everybody's. 6" is a nominal size ;-)

[Matt Meiser]

Not about the hose issue, but on the blast gates. I am not sure about Grizzly, and no clue about 6" since I am using 4", but I know the Lee Valley 4" self cleaning aluminum blast gates fit just inside 4" S/D PVC and seal up snug with a thin layer of clear silicone sealant.

Another tip on that specific connection--I've found a couple wraps of electrical tape works well too. Its easily removable for future changes too.

[Gerald Senburn]

This guy (http://www.thewoodnerd.com/workshop/dustCollection.html) does it a coupla different ways. Scroll down to the "ductwork" section. He even gives a specific part number and supplier for the hose he's using.

[David Hostetler]

True... The silicone will come apart reasonably easy with a tug. My ceiling drops are actually screwed in to the pipe to keep the assembly from separating...

[Alan Schaffter]

What Matt and Eric said- the flex can be cajoled to fit inside a coupling or . . . a leftover bell end from a run of S&D pipe. The coupling gives you a female quick disconnect, while the bell end gives you a male one. I have the male type of quick disconnects on both ends of all my flex. (my machine and wall ports are all couplings)

(Note, the blue/green pipe the guy at Gerald's link is using is NOT S&D ASTM 2729- it is SDR35 which has the same OD as 2729 but has a thicker wall- so has a smaller ID, weighs about twice what S&D ASTM 2729 weighs, and is more expensive than 2729.)

If you have a lot of excess pipe and no bell ends you can make your own fittings pretty easily. Turn a wooden plug the same diameter as the outside of the flex and taper one end so it just starts to go into S&D. Heat the last 3" - 6" of the S&D with a heat gun or carefully with a torch until it softens. It is easier to do if it is mounted on a lathe where you can rotate it slowly. Then take your wooden plug and drive it into the S&D about three inches using a mallet- the PVC expands and makes an instant bell end.

The blast below gate even has male and female ends. The first two pics were taken before I converted all my blast gates to autogates and moved them out of sight below the floor or behind the knee wall.

http://www.ncwoodworker.net/pp/data/1329/medium/P3070161.JPG

http://www.ncwoodworker.net/pp/data/1329/medium/P3030143.JPG

http://www.ncwoodworker.net/pp/data/1329/medium/P4020018.JPG

[Gerald Senburn]

the blue/green pipe the guy at Gerald's link is using is NOT S&D ASTM 2729- it is SDR35 which has the same OD as 2729 but has a thicker wall

But then wouldn't the fittings be the same ID as 2729, ergo what he's doing would still work regardless of which pipe you're using?

[Alan Schaffter]

But then wouldn't the fittings be the same ID as 2729, ergo what he's doing would still work regardless of which pipe you're using?

True. My point was it is heavier and more expensive pipe. Just wanted to alert folks who may be new to the sometimes confusing world of PVC DC pipe.

[glenn bradley]

Another tip on that specific connection--I've found a couple wraps of electrical tape works well too. Its easily removable for future changes too.

Very slick tip Matt. Thanks.

[Rick Moyer]

Well, I made one as Ed (and Glenn) suggested and also one similar using 30 gauge snap lock. The former makes a nicer, sturdier connection, and the snap lock was a little easier. I pop-rivet'd the snap lock inside a pipe pc. Either way works. I did not try the heat shrink/clamp procedure as that seemed like more work and I didn't want to go outside to do it (too cold!). I did put a pc of flex inside a coupler but I didn't think I liked that approach.
Thanks to all who responded for the great suggestions.

[Joel Albert]

I can vouch for the 6" blast gates from Lee Valley as well. I am currently trying to build my system and just checked last night.

[Jim O'Dell]

Notice....Be very careful with heating up the PVC...It will give off some very dangerous vapors. You don't want to breathe them!!!!

Use a hair dryer or a heat gun with lots of care, and heat the flex pipe up. It will stretch and you can work it onto the 2729 pipe with a little work. Jim.

[Dean Ousterhout]

Alan,

Where did you get the dust port for the saw? It looks like a unisaw and I have been looking for one for mine.

[Alan Schaffter]

Alan,

Where did you get the dust port for the saw? It looks like a unisaw and I have been looking for one for mine. I made it from MDF and 1/2 of a coupling.

[Joel Albert]

I can attest that the 6" blast gates from Lee Valley fit perfectly inside 6" S/D PVC pipe. I did have to caulk to get a better seal.

Also, my blast gates are on the downhill of a Wye fitting so I had to secure the pipe to the blast gate. Used a couple of screws and epoxy.

Joel

[Curt Harms]

OK, how do you get this to fit over 6" S&D? Has anyone done this? I haven't tried powder or lubricant yet, just wondering if anyone else has this combination and what they did.

It's the heavy-duty 6" wire reinforced clear. My part number was H1445. It is made by woodstock. Their number is W1036.

It won't as others have said. What will fit is a 6" S&D coupling on the outside of the hose. That's how I made my disconnects, and a PVC 6X4 reducer along with short lengths of 4" pipe make up my disconnects for 4" ports that would be difficult to upsize.