Anyone Build This Box Cutting Jig??

[Michael Schneider]

I have been looking for a box cutting jig for a tablesaw.

I came across two videos on youtube that had a really neat box cutting jig.

first basic

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yuFHurrWswQ

Another one
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=He04Wzaur_k


I found his website, and he sells an updated version. It was so cool that I paid the minor fee for the updated plan (version 2).

It looks pretty good.

Has anyone built one? If so, how did it work out for you?

Free One

http://woodgears.ca/box_joint/jig.html

Cheap One
http://woodgears.ca/box_joint/jig_improved.html



Thanks Michael

[Rick Markham]

That guy makes some really neat jigs/setups/machines. You should definitely document your build, I look forward to seeing how it turns out!

[Tom Gerken]

Wow! Thats all I have to say about that.

[Dan Cameron]

I am a fan of the box joint jigs which use a 3/8-16 threaded rod, but I took a much simpler approach than Mathias. For one, I chose to restrict my jig capabilities to exact multiples of 1/16 inch from 1/4 inch upwards. My dado set has 1/8 inch outer blades and 1/8 and 1/16 inch chippers. The blades are undersized (intentionally?) so shims are always used to obtain the desired multiple of 1/16 th. My screw advances are always exact 1 revolution multiples, ensured by a detent. I have a $2 plastic ruler (1/16 increments)and a homemade pointer that lets me "read" the number of revolutions without gears or counting. With a nut driver and a small drill I can power-advance to within a half turn or so and manually advance to the final point.

Instead of t-nuts to drive the carriage, I threaded a block of HDPE plastic, which streches a bit as it is tapped, resulting in a nice anti-backlash drive (like a nylock nut). Another aspect of my KISS approach is I screw my jig to a mitre guage locked at 90 degrees instead of using dedicated runner(s).

[Gene Howe]

I am a fan of the box joint jigs which use a 3/8-16 threaded rod, but I took a much simpler approach than Mathias. For one, I chose to restrict my jig capabilities to exact multiples of 1/16 inch from 1/4 inch upwards. My dado set has 1/8 inch outer blades and 1/8 and 1/16 inch chippers. The blades are undersized (intentionally?) so shims are always used to obtain the desired multiple of 1/16 th. My screw advances are always exact 1 revolution multiples, ensured by a detent. I have a $2 plastic ruler (1/16 increments)and a homemade pointer that lets me "read" the number of revolutions without gears or counting. With a nut driver and a small drill I can power-advance to within a half turn or so and manually advance to the final point.

Instead of t-nuts to drive the carriage, I threaded a block of HDPE plastic, which streches a bit as it is tapped, resulting in a nice anti-backlash drive (like a nylock nut). Another aspect of my KISS approach is I screw my jig to a mitre guage locked at 90 degrees instead of using dedicated runner(s).

Dan,
Is this close to what you are referring to? I'd like to make the jig and incorporate your ideas.

[Lee Schierer]

A few years ago, I spent several days making a fancy adjustable box joint jig. I used it once to try it out and it has been collecting sawdust ever since.

Have you considered the time it will take you to make that geared jig and the number of box joints you are likely to need? I think the best jig is a simple one. See attached sketch. This jig fits in your miter slot. The peg is the width of the joint slot. The space between the peg and the opening is exactly the width of a finger. You can clamp two or four sides together and offset two just like he did in the video and cut all your joints. You can make several jigs if you want different sized fingers and slots. People have used them for years to make box joints.

[mark kosse]

I recently went through what Lee did, with the same impresion and results. I like the simple jig better than the shopnotes one I spent a lot of time building. I put some magnets on the cabinet of my saw, put a screw in the end of the set up block ( which is the same size as your fingers)and I leave it on my saw. Screw the fence to the miter guage and cut.

The shopnotes one sure looks cool though...

[Alan Schaffter]

Gotta say, like I've been saying for some months now, a better option is on the horizon. I wish I could say more and give a precise date, but it is gonna happen in a few months!

[mreza Salav]

If you have the Incra miter gauge then there is a simple way of building one with fine adjustments.
I built one which is basically a very simple one like the one Lee shows above, except that it is bolted (using T-bolts) to my Incra miter gauge. See the photo below.
The miter gauge has a screw (visible at the upper right corner of the following pic) which allows the stop
block to be move at tiny amounts; by losening the t-bolts you can use the stop block and the screw to make fine adjustments
to your jig. I hope this helps:

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=146544&d=1269751971

[Chris Fournier]

There may well be some personal satisfaction to be had building that machine but a simple shop made jig like Lee has posted keeps a simple joint simple. For the effort required to make that machine I'd be expecting a more sophisticated razzle dazzle joint at the other end of the process.

[Alan Schaffter]

There may well be some personal satisfaction to be had building that machine but a simple shop made jig like Lee has posted keeps a simple joint simple. For the effort required to make that machine I'd be expecting a more sophisticated razzle dazzle joint at the other end of the process.

For a one-off, one time use, making your own pin jig is certainly the most cost effective. Unfortunately, some folks don't thoroughly understand the factors that result a poor fitting joint and are not careful in setting up the jig:


Everything MUST be based on the actual kerf cut by the dado blade, router bit, etc. and not the published size of the bit or blade. A dado blade with the exact same blades, chippers, and shims may cut differently from session to session unless carefully aligned and tightened.
When you make the alignment pin, it MUST fit the kerf slot in the fence exactly, not too loose, not too tight. When fitting the pin to the fence you MUST trim the pin to fit. You cannot enlarge the slot in the fence!
The space between the pin and the blade must be precisely set to the width of the kerf. Use a piece of the pin and just "kiss the widest tooth of the blade" when you set the distance to guide pin and be careful that you don't flex the blade.

If you do that carefully, you won't have any problems. But realize, that if you do that, you will have a perfectly fitting joint which may be a little snug.

[Lee Schierer]

For a one-off, one time use, making your own pin jig is certainly the most cost effective. Unfortunately, some folks don't thoroughly understand the factors that result a poor fitting joint and are not careful in setting up the jig:


Everything MUST be based on the actual kerf cut by the dado blade, router bit, etc. and not the published size of the bit or blade. A dado blade with the exact same blades, chippers, and shims may cut differently from session to session unless carefully aligned and tightened.
When you make the alignment pin, it MUST fit the kerf slot in the fence exactly, not too loose, not too tight. When fitting the pin to the fence you MUST trim the pin to fit. You cannot enlarge the slot in the fence!
The space between the pin and the blade must be precisely set to the width of the kerf. Use a piece of the pin and just "kiss the widest tooth of the blade" when you set the distance to guide pin and be careful that you don't flex the blade.

If you do that carefully, you won't have any problems. But realize, that if you do that, you will have a perfectly fitting joint which may be a little snug.

The exact same problems will occur with the fancy gear driven jig. His set up depends upon the precision of the cut slot width.

[Jeffrey Makiel]

Check out this thread...

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?149768-My-Box-Joint-Jig

Jeff:)