Inexpensive Bandsaw blade source???

[Randy Gazda]

The last time I ordered bandsaw blades, I think I paid less than $10/blade with free shipping. That was a couple of years ago. Unfortunately, I can't remember the source. I am hard on blades so inexpensive before quality in this case. 1/2" wide 3 tooth 105" is the basics.

Any info appreciated.

[Cody Colston]

$10 per blade is really cheap. I always thought the TW blades were on the low end of the price range for bandsaw blades and they are in the $25 range for the 131.5" blades I use.

[lowell holmes]

I've ordered band saw blades from BC Saw. Their prices and service are good. I think they use Starrett blades. The welds are good. No shake and bake when their blades are on the saw.
I like the low tension Timber Wolf blades, but I've experienced welds that were not straight on two of their blades. The saw shakes and bakes when the 1/2" Timber Wolf blade is on the saw. I never have had that problem with BC blades.

[Thomas Williams]

I have had great service from Spectrum Supply. www.spectrumsupply.com Lenox Flex Back is about 11.50 and less if buy in quantity.

[glenn bradley]

These guys are reasonable but have a $50 minimum order: http://www.ellissaw.com/

[John A. Scott]

+1 for BC Saw (http://www.bcsaw.com)

[John Lanciani]

How about $11 each for Lenox blades in the size you need.
http://www.woodcraftbands.com/Pricing%20page.htm

[Van Huskey]

I am hard on blades so inexpensive before quality in this case.

Any info appreciated.

You may be chasing false economy depending on what "hard on blades" means to you. If you use them hard as opposed to abusing them get a bi-metal blade instead. It will outlast the carbon blades 8-10 times and cost maybe 3 times as much initially. My only concern is that your saw is going to be right on the edge of being able to tension a 1/2" bi-metal blade, since I am assuming it is a 14" cast clone with a riser block based on the blade length.

[Randy Gazda]

You may be chasing false economy depending on what "hard on blades" means to you. If you use them hard as opposed to abusing them get a bi-metal blade instead. It will outlast the carbon blades 8-10 times and cost maybe 3 times as much initially. My only concern is that your saw is going to be right on the edge of being able to tension a 1/2" bi-metal blade, since I am assuming it is a 14" cast clone with a riser block based on the blade length.

When I say I am hard on blades, I should have explained, I abuse the saw and the blade sometimes cutting large bowl planks (think 15" x 15" x 12" wet maple or walnut). I just finished cutting round 'twig' lengths for a bowl, I tried a bi-metal once and can see why they are used. It is just frustrating when you 'wreck' the blade before it is dull.

Thanks everyone for the suggestions. Sawmill Creekers are awesome!

[Van Huskey]

You may want to try a blade with a lot of set, much better choice for wet wood cutting. An example:

http://www.highlandwoodworking.com/woodturners-bandsawblade.aspx

BTW I would not call what you are doing abuse, that is just use. The above blade will help clear the wet gooey chips and may reduce some of your issues and should have a faster feedrate in wet wood than what you are using.

[Guy Belleman]

I usually go with quality first, but do have an inexpensive backup blade always ready to go. My primary blade of several years did break and I slapped on the Grizzly backup blade. It worked well. Of course, as soon as the better highland blade showed up, the backup went back on the wall.