Setting up Wolverine Bases

[W.C. Turner]

It's beyond me, how to get the Wolverine bases set up flush, and in the center of the grinding wheels! I simply don't have enough hands! Just when I think I've got it, the base slips & moves out of alignment, before I can clamp it.

I'm using a square to center the base, & get it flush with the wheels.

Do any of you folks actually have your bases flush with, and in the center of the grinding wheels, and how did you manage to do it? What was your process?

Thanks.

[Stan Smith]

I think that I may have done mine in reverse of the way you are doing it. I realized that the grinder would have to be raised up around an inch to get the angles right to sharpen the the tools. This was due to me having a 6" grinder. I mounted the jig to the wooden base and then mounted the grinder. I just moved the grinder until the stuff lined up okay. I think that the wheels are 1" thick and I only have one roughing gouge wider than that so maybe it wasn't as critical for my setup.

[W.C. Turner]

The mounting screws that hold down the bases under the wheels keep moving the base out of alignment when tightened. I'm 1/16" from being in the center of the wheel, and 1/16" from having the base flush with the wheel. Is this that critical? Since the arm is moved in and out of the base, I can't understand why this would be that critical. The wheel not being centered seems like it may be more of an issue.

If it's critical, I may have to try again, maybe your way Stan. Did your setup all line up flush and centered?

Thanks.

[Stan Smith]

Have you ever tried the Wolverine jig before? I got to try one at a friends before I bought mine. I don't see how a 1/16th off center would really matter very much if at all. Whether you are sharpening gouges, scrapers, or skews, you have to have the tool moving. If you don't, the metal will get too hot and burn. Therefore, if you are sliding or moving the tool across the grinder wheel, what difference would a 16th make? Remember the most important thing is to get the angle set right and also make the cutting edge uniform. Go real slow at first and remove the tool from the wheel very frequently until you are used to everything. I also bought the skew attachment and found it quite helpful. Hope this helps. If you take your time, the Wolvering jig is really beneficial. Oh yeah, make sure you have the right wheels as to the correct grit. I think mine are 120 (pink in color).

[W.C. Turner]

I've had my jig for a while, mounted with an 6" grinder, that when I tried putting good al. oxide wheels on it, the thing viberated too much. I tried several different brands of wheels, but never could get the viberation out of it. It ran just fine with the cheap gray wheels that came on it. Go figure, huh? I had been using the gray wheels for practice.

Then, when I decided to replace it with the 8" Woodcraft slow grinder, as I was removing the jig bases, I realized that I didn't have them properly placed. So, before mounting the bases on the new grinder, I wanted to get some opinions about how critical the placememt of the jig bases are to the end result, so I could get them installed correctly this time. Then, as I was posting the questions, I thought, it didn't seem to make any difference the way I had them placed before, although I didn't try sharpening a lot with the 6" grinder.

I usually tend to be too much of a stickler for details, and I'm trying to get out of that habit. 9 times out of 10, I think you're better off going with your gut feeling.

I still would like for somebody to explain why it would be so critical, as the wolverine instructions tend to make it out to be?

Thanks.

[Charles Bjorgen]

I'd recommend writing directly to Oneway Manufacturing for further instructions and clarification about setting up the Wolverine sharpening jig. I recently emailed them for info on their new Bowl Steady and received immediate help. Try:
http://www.oneway.on.ca/