I can move this bandsaw

[Frank Pellow]

Note added on 27 Jan, 2005: The original title of this thread was "Can I move this Bandsaw?". I have now moved the saw and installed it in my shop, so I changed the title.

I have had limited experience moving heavy objects and am seeking advice on a move that I am contemplating.

I am probably going to purchase an ACM Star 400 bandsaw (see the first photo). It weighs about 450 pounds crated and will be a little over 6 ft high.

I would like to pick up the saw at a (somewhat) nearby warehouse and will take a friend with me to do the job. We are both in good shape. I have the trailer, dolly, and ramps (2" x 8" x 9' spruce with metal ends) shown in the second and third pictures.

Is this going to be something that we can handle? If so, do you have any advice?

[Jerry Crawford]

Frank - I'd spend a few bucks and visit the local Tool rental outlet and look at an appliance dolly. They are made to handle refrigerators and piano's as well as "walking" those loads up and down a flight of stairs. Your looking at an awkward & heavy machine. If it starts to tip while on those ramps you and your friend will in serious shape.

BTW, congratulations on the buy.

[Tyler Howell]

That is a beautiful machine Frank ,but a lot of weight. As a friend said "you'd be stair lubebricant if that baby ever got loose".
That being said, well balanced you can move just about anything. I got some movers to do my PM66 $$150/hour. Moved the saw, halled sheet goods took out the garbage, washed the dishes and walked the dog. It was worth it. No injuries and no damage.:cool:
I'd go for a refridge dolly if you insist on doing this.
Good luck.

[John Pollman]

I've got to agree with Tyler and Jerry, get a refrigerator dolly with "stairclimbers" if you've got any stairs to deal with. Also, I use a set of ramps almost exaxtly like you have in the picture to put my tractor in and out of my trailer. They work fine but what I do is place a cinder block or short jack stand roughly in the center of the ramp underneath it. That helps stop the ramp deflection when the load is on it. I just slide the jack stands underneath and leave about an inch of clearance so that the deflection is limited. The ramp will still flex but not as much.

Good luck on the move !

John

[John Shuk]

Frank,
I used to repair and deliver office furniture(in another lifetime it seems) including safes. The real trick isn't strength just technique. If you can't use a trailer to haul the saw(lower to the ground less acute angle for ramp safety) then I would keep the saw in the crate and bring it to the truck put the spine against the gate and pick up the bottomm and pivot it in and transport it on it's spine. Do the reverse to get it out of the truck. I don't know the details of the new shop but if it is on the ground floor use the handtruck to get where you need to go. Stairs make a real difference and that is where I would make the decision to use movers or not if you must. If the motor is off of the saw it will help tremendously. Matt Clarke and I took the motor off of the Delta 18" bandsaw he bought when the stairs were a proving to be a real obstacle. It made it much easier. I would say that with 3 people one of whom has done some moving of objects you would be fine. You have to decide for yourself how comfortable you are with it though I don't want to read about Frank Pellow needing wheelchair ramps next!

[Brian Hale]

The trailer will do fine.

As others have mentioned, get an appliance dolly as they're designed to move a load like that bandsaw. Do not use a dolly with pneumatic tires because if the load starts to tip you'll loose it for sure. Strap it the the appliance dolly, tip it over till the load is balanced and roll along.

Try to put the heaviest side of the crate against the dolly. Most likely it'll be the side opposite the table.

On something that tall you'll find it eaiser to grab one of the cross braces of the dolly with one hand and let the weight rest on your shoulder instead of using the 2 handles as the top of the crate/box will be at neck level.

If you can avoid the ramps, please do so. They can be very dangerous! I'm thinking you could disconnect the tralier, chock the wheels and raise the tongue till the gate rests on the ground. Put a jack stand or something under the tongue to keep it up and walk the machine into the trailer. Set the crate down over the axles and then hook the trailer up to the tow vehicle. Then slide the crate all the way forward and center it. Strap it down good. Keep in mind that you'll want to prevent the crate from rocking forward in case you need to slam on the brakes. Don't worry too much about it falling backwards, you won't be drag racing on the way home.

Whoever is pushing the crate while you're rolling it around, remind them not to pick up from the bottom. All this does transfer the weight to the person driving the dolly. Any forward push should be directed to the drivers thighs.

Please remember to use your legs, not your back. Your legs are the biggest and strongest muscle in your body, your back is wimpy by comparison.

Good Luck!
Brian :)

[Jim Taylor]

That looks like quite a load.

If you want to take it on... and it is not in a crate, I would be looking to use those holes in the base to bolt the unit securely to whatever you are going to use to move it.

If you bolted a beam to each side, I imagine 4 guys could lift it straight up in an ark fashion.

[Steve Ash]

I'll agree with the appliance dolly...my wife bought a gunsafe for me for Christmas, it weighed 435 lbs. and was easy to move with the dolly.

[Jamie Buxton]

Other folks have posted pix of tilting a saw like this into a pickup, and having it travel on its back. If you have a few strong friends, that might be a way for you to go.

A different way is the way I just moved my Laguna LT16HD -- virtually the same saw. I moved it by myself, and I am not a big guy. The key for me was renting a truck with a liftgate. I rented a 12-ft stake-bed for $90/day. I horsed the saw around, shoved it on to the liftgate, threw a rope around it so that it wouldn't slide off the gate, and pushed the Up button. Then I horsed it from the gate in the truck bed, tied it down, drove the truck to my new location, and reversed the procedure. The bandsaw stood vertical through the whole operation.

[Frank Pellow]

I'll agree with the appliance dolly...my wife bought a gunsafe for me for Christmas, it weighed 435 lbs. and was easy to move with the dolly.
Thanks Steve. That's just about the same weight as the saw. What were the dimensions of your package and when you say "easy to move" do you mean by just one person?

[Steve Ash]

Frank, the dimensions are 30" wide x 22" deep and 61" in height (just measured it) My two sons moved it into the house from the truck by themselves....and they didn't have any problems.

[Jim Young]

Frank, when I bought my 20" Agazanni I figured it would be easy to move. I barely got it off the truck with the drivers help. It then took three of us to get into my basement. Two things are working against you, the sheer weight and the top of the saw is hard to grab. Keep these things in mind.

[Robert Tarr]

Frank,

I think you two can move this saw with the following two caveats.

1) You are moving it to a ground floor shop

2) You do not use the ramps that you have in your pictures...I think you are asking for trouble

Please do a search on Robert's Excellent Adventure...bringing the MM16 home this is Jim Becker and me bringing home my MM16. My saw is about the same weight as yours (almost exactly) and please look at the number of folks used/needed to get it on the truck and a solid 3 people to get it off and into the basement, with a bunch of help from gravity. I am young and strong for my size (albeit 6'3") with the help of two strong friends. All of that said, the important parts of the puzzle are the location of the weight (table @ 100lbs+ and the motor about about 100 lbs) below the tailgate, thus needing all of the folks to lift it onto the bed, which you won't need (please make sure you don't have a mobility kit on it during the move.) All you will have to do, is wheel the saw up to the end of the trailer (a 2 man job) and lay it on it's back gently and move it into the trailer (as I said before, using the ramps is asking for a bunch of trouble and heartache IMHO.) If in fact you need to move this up or down stairs, I say that you enlist at least one or two other folks to help and even at that, you may have to remove the table to lighten the load.

Work safe and have one more person than you think you need....a hurt back or friend will keep you out of the shop.

Take care,

Robert

[Jim Becker]

What Robert said...and his was the second one I moved. The first was my own with Fred Voorhees' help.

[Joe Mioux]

Frank: Before posting, I checked your age. At 63, why do you want to bother with this. Hire someone(s) and be safe.

[Chad Pater]

Last month I bought a Grizzy 0513 (17 inch bandsaw) weight 321. I used a dolly like in your picture the trucking Co had along.....worked great but the truck had a lift gate so there were no ramps involved.... The ramps would scare me a little as others have suggested.
good luck, I was going to tell you to let us know how it went but I'm sure you will :D
Chad

[Frank Pellow]

Frank: Before posting, I checked your age. At 63, why do you want to bother with this. Hire someone(s) and be safe.
You could very well be correct about it being best to hire someone to move the saw but, if I do decide to do that, my age will not be the reason. I am in excellent health and in many things (e.g. hiking, canoeing, swimming, skiing) am more than able to hold my own with friends 20 and 30 years younger than myself. Joe, I don't blame you for suggesting that I should consider my age, but I trully believe that it should not be a factor. By the way, my wife agrees with me on this.

[Tom LaRussa]

Frank,

When I look at those ramps, plus the ice on the ground, and think about the weight of that saw I hear bones snapping. :(

Would this work? The idea is to use the trailer as though it were a giant furniture dolley.

[Greg Mann]

Frank,

IIRC, you have a friend with access to fork trucks and all. Why don't you just take it to his place, let him unload it, and store it for you. Then, anytime you need it you can go to his place to use it. Won't even have to lift a finger. Much safer for you.

Your friend,
Greg

[Art King]

Frank,
You can move and unload your saw sucessfully. Do NOT move the saw standing up, particularly on that light of a trailer. Slide the saw in on its back and secure it that way. It would be ideal if you could put the saw on moveable skid or pallet. At your destination use a pair of short skids about 3ft. long judging by the low ramp height of the trailer. Secure them so they can't slide and pull the saw out over them. Use a come-a-long for this. About a third of the way out the heavy base of the saw will make it overcenter and follow the skids on down to the surface. At this point walk into the trailer, grab the saw by the top and simply stand it up. Assuming no steps etc. you can take it anywhere you wish to go with 3, 1" x 18" long pipes. I just handled a PBS 440 like this by myself and it works like a charm. (I'm older than you are by the way!)
The one advantage I had was that my saw was still crated untill it reached the floor. I would guess a second person to help steady the saw would take care of things.
Don't want to intrude here, but this worked really well.
Good luck,
Art King

[Frank Pellow]

Frank,
You can move and unload your saw sucessfully. Do NOT move the saw standing up, particularly on that light of a trailer. Slide the saw in on its back and secure it that way. It would be ideal if you could put the saw on moveable skid or pallet. At your destination use a pair of short skids about 3ft. long judging by the low ramp height of the trailer. Secure them so they can't slide and pull the saw out over them. Use a come-a-long for this. About a third of the way out the heavy base of the saw will make it overcenter and follow the skids on down to the surface. At this point walk into the trailer, grab the saw by the top and simply stand it up. Assuming no steps etc. you can take it anywhere you wish to go with 3, 1" x 18" long pipes. I just handled a PBS 440 like this by myself and it works like a charm. (I'm older than you are by the way!)
The one advantage I had was that my saw was still crated untill it reached the floor. I would guess a second person to help steady the saw would take care of things.
Don't want to intrude here, but this worked really well.
Good luck,
Art King
Art, how could you possibily be intruding when you are giving me such a precise answer to my question? I see that this is your first post, so let me be the first person to say: "Art, Welcome to Saw Mill Creek!" The folks here are friendly, knowledegable, and helpful.

[Norman Hitt]

Frank, I agree with Mr's Tarr and Becker. I moved my MM-20, so have experience with this, (and moving many other machines and heavy equipment over the years) but I used different equip than what you have due to a 300 mile drive to bring it home, however some of he methods I employed are the same as mentioned below.

From the pics you posted I would make the following observations and suggestions:

You DO NOT want to move the saw standing upright, as it is absolutely too top heavy and tipsy, Especially on a light trailer like yours. It should be transported laying down on it's spine, and tied well to both sides to keep it from turning over. (If it is crated, I would uncrate it Before loading it as it will be lighter and less bulky to handle) Since you don't have to go into a basement, I would not remove either the motor or the table if you have adequate help) Wopuld it be possible to get a couple of the warehouse folks to help load? (Maybe with a little tip $$)

Next, make SURE your trailer hitch is WELL connected and tight to your vehicles ball. Take some Blocking to place under each side at the rear of the trailer to keep it steady while loading, (and a hammer to knock the blocking out once the load is on), and ""DO NOT"" try to use those ramps for this type of load. After you have the trailer blocked solid, remove the chains on the tail gate, and let the tail gate down to the ground, as I wouldn't trust either the chains or the tailgate with that kind of weight.

Wheel the saw up to the trailer so the Spine of the saw is next to the trailer and using either three or four folks if possible, tip it over onto the trailer on it's spine, and slide it foreward into the trailer. (NOTE: Once you start to tip the saw, have someone on each side hold the bottom of the saw so it does not try to slide away from the trailer once the spine contacts the trailer, and the other two should be at the top of the saw to let it down gently. Tie the saw, from the front, back, and both sides, reconnect the tailgate, remove the blocks and drive it home. Reverse the procedure when you get it home to unload it, and if you use your wheel cart OR an appliance dolly, use one person to control the dolly, AND one person on each side to keep it from tipping as you wheel it to the shop, because if it ever starts to tip, It's GONE!!! and it don't take much unevenness in the ground or whatever you're rolling across to make it try to tip.

You can put it up into your shop the same way you loaded it onto the trailer, slide it in and then tip it upright, (assuming you havent built a permanent ramp to your landing/deck door)

Two STRONG People could possibly do the job, but It's not worth risking injury or ruining an expensive machine by taking the chance.

Good Luck and let us know how it works out.

[John Bailey]

I noticed on Terry Hatfield's review of his Grizzly 513 that the warranty would be void if it were transported other than in the vertical position. Might be a good idea to check into that.

[Gary Sutherland]

You've probably asked this question, but just in case....

Does the warehouse offer a liftgate delivery? If so can they bring a pallet jack and just wheel it in for you?

If they can, it'd sure be worth a little money to avoid injury, especially if there's just the two of you.

Personally, I think everyone should have a neighbor with a forklift.

Great saw!! Congrats and be safe when moving it.

Gary

[Aaron Montgomery]

My brother and I loaded and unloaded my MM16 (about 450 lbs) in the back of his Dodge Ram twice. It wasn't really a problem to move - just back the truck up to the back of the saw, tip the saw on the tailgate, lift the base and slide it in. Getting it out was a bit easier than getting it in. :) I had borrowed a refrigerator dolly from a guy at work to do the rest of the moving. I had three guys come over during lunch to help me get it down the stairs - no problem at all.

Good luck with your move!

[Clint deal]

Frank, I agree with Mr's Tarr and Becker. I moved my MM-20, so have experience with this, (and moving many other machines and heavy equipment over the years) but I used different equip than what you have due to a 300 mile drive to bring it home, however some of he methods I employed are the same as mentioned below.

From the pics you posted I would make the following observations and suggestions:

You DO NOT want to move the saw standing upright, as it is absolutely too top heavy and tipsy, Especially on a light trailer like yours. It should be transported laying down on it's spine, and tied well to both sides to keep it from turning over. (If it is crated, I would uncrate it Before loading it as it will be lighter and less bulky to handle) Since you don't have to go into a basement, I would not remove either the motor or the table if you have adequate help) Wopuld it be possible to get a couple of the warehouse folks to help load? (Maybe with a little tip $$)

Next, make SURE your trailer hitch is WELL connected and tight to your vehicles ball. Take some Blocking to place under each side at the rear of the trailer to keep it steady while loading, (and a hammer to knock the blocking out once the load is on), and ""DO NOT"" try to use those ramps for this type of load. After you have the trailer blocked solid, remove the chains on the tail gate, and let the tail gate down to the ground, as I wouldn't trust either the chains or the tailgate with that kind of weight.

Wheel the saw up to the trailer so the Spine of the saw is next to the trailer and using either three or four folks if possible, tip it over onto the trailer on it's spine, and slide it foreward into the trailer. (NOTE: Once you start to tip the saw, have someone on each side hold the bottom of the saw so it does not try to slide away from the trailer once the spine contacts the trailer, and the other two should be at the top of the saw to let it down gently. Tie the saw, from the front, back, and both sides, reconnect the tailgate, remove the blocks and drive it home. Reverse the procedure when you get it home to unload it, and if you use your wheel cart OR an appliance dolly, use one person to control the dolly, AND one person on each side to keep it from tipping as you wheel it to the shop, because if it ever starts to tip, It's GONE!!! and it don't take much unevenness in the ground or whatever you're rolling across to make it try to tip.

You can put it up into your shop the same way you loaded it onto the trailer, slide it in and then tip it upright, (assuming you havent built a permanent ramp to your landing/deck door)

Two STRONG People could possibly do the job, but It's not worth risking injury or ruining an expensive machine by taking the chance.

Good Luck and let us know how it works out.

If I were moving it myself that's how I'd do it. Consider this though, I have a bad back with 2 ruptured discs and a surgury that did'nt help.
My mom and dad just hired some guys to move then into their new house. They were called 3 guys and a truck. The cost was $99 and hour. It was worth it considering the wood stove that was included in the move. It might be worth it to look in the yellow pages and see if there are any movers in your area like this.
Clint

[Frank Pellow]

...
From the pics you posted I would make the following observations and suggestions:
...
.
Thanks for the very detailed instructions Norman.

[Michael Gabbay]

Frank -

I moved my Bridewood 17 inch BS into my basement shop a few months ago. It weighed in at 300 pounds without the table and fence. My nephew and I moved it down 13 stairs using an appliance dolly VERY slowly. If all you are doing is moving it from the truck or trailer to a first floor shop then I'd say no brainer. Just support your ramp midway and definately spend $10 for an appliance dolly rental. If it is crated, I would have them load it on it's back and slide it out of the truck/trailer and tip it up.

That's a nice looking saw. I guess you will be gloating soon! :)

Mike

[Frank Pellow]

Frank,

IIRC, you have a friend with access to fork trucks and all. Why don't you just take it to his place, let him unload it, and store it for you. Then, anytime you need it you can go to his place to use it. Won't even have to lift a finger. Much safer for you.

Your friend,
Greg
Great idea! :) There is one small snag, my friend with the forrklift (that would be you Greg) lives a five hour drive and and a border crossing away. :(

[Jim Dunn]

Well Frank,

It would be a good reason to visit and you could buy cigaretts down here and sell for a profit up there to help offset cost of gas :)

[Frank Pellow]

You've probably asked this question, but just in case....

Does the warehouse offer a liftgate delivery? If so can they bring a pallet jack and just wheel it in for you?

If they can, it'd sure be worth a little money to avoid injury, especially if there's just the two of you.

Personally, I think everyone should have a neighbor with a forklift.

Great saw!! Congrats and be safe when moving it.

Gary
Thanks Gary, I am investigating this right now.

By the way, my garage is only an interim location. The bandsaw, along with other stationary tools that will be in my garage by then, will be moved to my workshop in mid February. I have already hired someone (who happens to be a General and Delta service man) to help with that move and a couple of my friends will be pitching in as well. I purchased all my other stationary tools from a company that will deliver them to my garage. It's only the bandsaw where I need to make my own arrangements.

[Jim Becker]

Frank, if you can back your pickup/trailer up to the garage, you really are not going to have a major problem using the comments from Robert and Norm. My suggestion is "uncrated", to make it easier to manuver and also reduce the height so you can actually get it IN the garage!! The spine on the back of these saws is just right to support the machine in transit as well as act as the fulcrim when you tip it in and out of the truck/trailer.

[Greg Mann]

Great idea! :) There is one small snag, my friend with the forrklift (that would be you Greg) lives a five hour drive and and a border crossing away. :(
So, my idea doesn't work for you, eh? ;) BTW, all that work you did building your workshop means NO STAIRS!! :cool:

Greg

[Greg Mann]

Shame on all you guys who have talked about stair problems and garages for Frank. After all the work he has done posting on his workshop construction we should ALL know that he is putting this thing in a ground level WORKSHOP. J-Kidding

This is when his efforts really begin to pay off.:D :D :D

Greg

[Norman Hitt]

Frank, I had to store my MM-20 in my garage for a few month also, as my shop bldg was under construction at the time. I 'm reasonably sure you won't have a problem with height on yours, but a comical thing happened when unloading mine. We got it off the Penske Truck, hooked up the mobility kit and headed into the garage, and as I approached the door, I had several "Palpatations", because it looked like we were going to have to lay it down again to get it inside. We were lucky though, because it cleared the garage door frame by about 1/2". Wheeeeeeeew!!!!!!! I knew the height of the saw, but had totally forgotten to measure the height of the door, and there was so much "Stuff" stored in there at the time, there would have been NO Room to lay it down, move it in and then tip it back up, as it barely fit standing upright. (another Wheeeeew!!!)

[Jim O'Dell]

Great idea! :) There is one small snag, my friend with the forrklift (that would be you Greg) lives a five hour drive and and a border crossing away. :(


Sounds like a free offer to me!!! I'd take him up on it!! Jim.

[Ed Breen]

Frank,
I just tuned in, and at my age I need all the help I can get. I originally used a Hoyer lift to move heavy objects, but I warped it with a 30 hp motor. I used to borrow an engine puller from a buddy (rated at 2 tons) and have since bought myself one that folds but is rated at 2 tons. . It sure makes moving cabinet machinery easy. Ask your mechanic to borrow over the weekend.
Good Luck
Ed

[Mac McAtee]

My local Home Depot or Lowes, forget which, has a truck with a lift gate that they rent for something like $25 hr.

[Frank Pellow]

My local Home Depot or Lowes, forget which, has a truck with a lift gate that they rent for something like $25 hr.
Does that not turn the problem into: "How do I move the truck with a lift gate/" :confused:

[Jim Dunn]

Hey Frank, why D for Drive that's how. Seriously most of those trucks are automatic transmissions and drive as easily as a car. Just watch backing up:)

[Richard McComas]

Frank, answer me this please. Is this band saw going into your garage or a shop with a roll up garage door?

[Frank Pellow]

Hey Frank, why D for Drive that's how. Seriously most of those trucks are automatic transmissions and drive as easily as a car. Just watch backing up:)
Oh, that kind of truck. :o I thought that you meant something like one of those little fork lifts that they clog up the isles with. :o

[Frank Pellow]

Frank, answer me this please. Is this band saw going into your garage or a shop with a roll up garage door?
The saw is temporarily going into a garage with a roll up door (82" clearence). Then, it is going into a shop with double swing doors (78" clearence).

[Dan Schafer]

IF this load ends up in the back of a pickup, check the weight rating of the tailgate first. When you tip the saw from its vertical position on the ground to a horizontal position in the truck, you will be placing almost all of the weight on the outer edge of the tailgate. You could snap the tailgate cables and damage people and equipment.

This is especially true if you have a late model GM product (I have a 2003 Avalanche) that was subject to the tailgate cable recall. It covered several years, and I believe every thing full size that had a tailgate (Avalanche, Escalade EXT, Silverado, Sierra, work trucks, etc.)

I agree that it's all about technique and using the right equipment, and not so much about age or fitness. I once move a piano in the back of my truck using similar "lawn mover" style ramps and two furniture dollies. The other thing is the be sure to strap it down securely once it's loaded. Any time I haul something awkward I always remind myself to secure it properly and not end up like one of those people you see reloading their 20 sheets plywood in the middle of the intesection in from of Home Depot due to their slick bed liner.;)

[Bob Aquino]

Frank,
I used to repair and deliver office furniture(in another lifetime it seems) including safes. The real trick isn't strength just technique. If you can't use a trailer to haul the saw(lower to the ground less acute angle for ramp safety) then I would keep the saw in the crate and bring it to the truck put the spine against the gate and pick up the bottomm and pivot it in and transport it on it's spine. Do the reverse to get it out of the truck. I don't know the details of the new shop but if it is on the ground floor use the handtruck to get where you need to go. Stairs make a real difference and that is where I would make the decision to use movers or not if you must. If the motor is off of the saw it will help tremendously. Matt Clarke and I took the motor off of the Delta 18" bandsaw he bought when the stairs were a proving to be a real obstacle. It made it much easier. I would say that with 3 people one of whom has done some moving of objects you would be fine. You have to decide for yourself how comfortable you are with it though I don't want to read about Frank Pellow needing wheelchair ramps next!

John is right on. I moved my 18" delta by myself off the truck (short bed supercrew) and the trick is to minimize the amount of weight you have to lift and move at one time. The saw is too tall to move vertically in the bed of the truck, if you have a real short stop, it may try and customize parts of your truck. I had one in traffic when some idiot cut me off and I was going fairly slow and taking care doing it. Saw moved a bit in the back, but no problems to speak of. Stand it up next to the tailgate of the truck and then lean it over as you then pick it up. You are sliding it in top first into the bed. Carry it laying down in the bed with the base pointing out the back. When you get it home, reverse the procedure and as you slide it out you lower it down gently. The trick is you are never handling the entire weigh of the saw since it is always pivoting on the tailgate or end of the bed of the truck. Once the corner is touching ground, then you stand it up. If the bed of the truck has a liner then you are set, if not, use some old carpeting or a blanket to help slide the saw in and out. If it is in a crate, then not a problem.

I have used this technique to move other large items as well, and so far I am still walking vertical and have all my appendages and digits attached. Good Luck.

[Richard McComas]

The saw is temporarily going into a garage with a roll up door (82" Clarence). Then, it is going into a shop with double swing doors (78" Clarence).

Hi Frank, I haven't followed your shop thread so I don't know what access you have to your garage and shop so this may or may not work for you.

I have several pieces of equipment weighing over 1000 lbs. When I get a new heavy machine I hire one of those slide back auto carries like a lot of the wrecker companies are now using. I have the driver follow me to the shipping company where they will load it onto the auto carrier, then I tie it down myself.

When we get to my shop/garage the auto carrier back up to my roll up shop door, then the bed of the auto carrier tilts up and slides back until it touch the floor making it's own ramp, after that it's a simple mater of sliding the machine off and onto the shop floor. The last time I did this it cost me $75.00.

This has worked out really well for me.

[Frank Pellow]

They have a liftgate truck and will deliver it as close as possible to my garage. The delivery will most likely be a week from today.

I thank everyone who provided advice. :) It made me decide not to tackle the job with the equipment that I showed in the photos. I will study the suggestions some more then will probably use some of them when moving the bandsaw (along with a table saw, a jointer, a planer, and a drill press) from the garage to my workshop. That move will probably happen in the early part of February.

[Ernie Kuhn]

Frank,
What Joe said. I'm only two years younger than you but I have changed my approach to some of the tools I used to use for things like this, same as fix the roof or paint the house. The first tool you want to reach for, is the phone. Call someone to come and move it for you. Your back, broken leg or whatever is certainly worth more than $100 if, that's what it would cost.
Ernie

[Frank Pellow]

Frank,
What Joe said. I'm only two years younger than you but I have changed my approach to some of the tools I used to use for things like this, same as fix the roof or paint the house. The first tool you want to reach for, is the phone. Call someone to come and move it for you. Your back, broken leg or whatever is certainly worth more than $100 if, that's what it would cost.
Ernie
Ernie, as I replied to Joe, my age does just not enter into decisions like this. Nor does it enter into decisions about the tasks that I take on. I guess that sometime in my future that will change :( , but that time is not now :) .

[Kelly C. Hanna]

Frank...skip the ramps for sure...tilt the bandsaw out of the bed of the truck using the tailgate as a fulcrum point and set it down onto the two wheeler. I do this type moving a lot with heavy objects. Using the ramps will cause you more trouble and necessitate more help to guide it down.

Congrats on the big bandsaw!! It looks very nice.

[Jason Sanko]

Frank,

I think you two can move this saw with the following two caveats.

1) You are moving it to a ground floor shop

2) You do not use the ramps that you have in your pictures...I think you are asking for trouble

Please do a search on Robert's Excellent Adventure...bringing the MM16 home this is Jim Becker and me bringing home my MM16. My saw is about the same weight as yours (almost exactly) and please look at the number of folks used/needed to get it on the truck and a solid 3 people to get it off and into the basement, with a bunch of help from gravity. I am young and strong for my size (albeit 6'3") with the help of two strong friends. All of that said, the important parts of the puzzle are the location of the weight (table @ 100lbs+ and the motor about about 100 lbs) below the tailgate, thus needing all of the folks to lift it onto the bed, which you won't need (please make sure you don't have a mobility kit on it during the move.) All you will have to do, is wheel the saw up to the end of the trailer (a 2 man job) and lay it on it's back gently and move it into the trailer (as I said before, using the ramps is asking for a bunch of trouble and heartache IMHO.) If in fact you need to move this up or down stairs, I say that you enlist at least one or two other folks to help and even at that, you may have to remove the table to lighten the load.

Work safe and have one more person than you think you need....a hurt back or friend will keep you out of the shop.

Take care,

Robert
I would second the don't use the ramps. Looks like from the length:

a: They could bow enough to break one then you drop saw.

b. I load an ATV on ramps and it has four wheels and is powered. Not enjoyable (granted it is into a 1 ton 4X3 pickup). I would not want to let that much weight down ramps that could shift could hurt you and the guy at the bottom.

[Chris Padilla]

Ramps work fine, Gentlemen...assuming you support them correctly.

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=9371

Scroll all through it and you'll see how I handled my MM20....

[Steve Roxberg]

I agree, hire it done.

Granted it is a little money, but long term it could be a bargain. A pulled back muscle could bother you for years. Bite the bullet and write the check, and I don't say that very often. I'm 46 and am not sure I would try to move that myself. :)

[Wayne Bracy]

Hello Frank, You might even check with the warehouse as they may provide delivery service that is reasonable.


Recently my son and I had a chance to get a recked BMW as a parts car. We looked around at renting a trailer and what have you and then someone suggesed just call a local recker company and see if they had special rates for "Doing it at there own time" so I did. Ended up the guy picked the car up brought to our house, about 40 miles away and moved it to right where I wanted it parked and the total bill was $100.00! More than worth the price.

[Ernie Kuhn]

Frank,
My remarks were not meant to be disparaging re; age or anything else. They were from my perspective, that has changed with my own experience and the value I place on something. There was a time, when I had no experience, and no money, that I did everything myself. My perspective has changed a bit and when I think a professional might save me some potential risk, I'll pay for it. Their tools, their equipment and most of all, their back. Be a shame, as Chris said, get it all the way home and drop it coming off the trailer or moving into the house or worse yet, risk some potential injury to yourself or whoever is going to help you. Best of luck with whatever you decide and congratulations on a fine machine!
Ernie

[Frank Pellow]

Frank,
My remarks were not meant to be disparaging re; age or anything else. They were from my perspective, that has changed with my own experience and the value I place on something. There was a time, when I had no experience, and no money, that I did everything myself. My perspective has changed a bit and when I think a professional might save me some potential risk, I'll pay for it. Their tools, their equipment and most of all, their back. Be a shame, as Chris said, get it all the way home and drop it coming off the trailer or moving into the house or worse yet, risk some potential injury to yourself or whoever is going to help you. Best of luck with whatever you decide and congratulations on a fine machine!
Ernie
OK Ernie. :) I still mostly prefer to do things by myself but once in a while I do hire someone. By the way, if you look at post #47 in this thread, you will see that I have hired someone to deliver the saw as close as possible to my garage (and I hope that means into my garage).

[Ernie Kuhn]

Frank,
I went back and read post #47 a little more carefully, this time. I'm glad you are having it delivered. I understand about doing most things yourself. My dad told me often enough that if you want something done the way YOU want it done, do it yourself. But, once in a while there is a line. As long as you can keep both sides of the line in sight, you'll be fine. Good luck with the delivery and on-site move and whatever you do, don't forget finished pictures.
Again, congratulations on your choice of machinery.
Ernie

[Jason S]

OK Ernie. :) I still mostly prefer to do things by myself but once in a while I do hire someone. By the way, if you look at post #47 in this thread, you will see that I have hired someone to deliver the saw as close as possible to my garage (and I hope that means into my garage).
Frank I personally think you will be much happier doing it this way. Look at it this way also as this is something that had not been discussed. If they drop t or break it they will be responsible not you, assuming they are bonded.

[Frank Pellow]

I hired someone with a liftgate truck to deliver the saw. It came this morning. That's the cab of the truck parked on the street in the attached photo.

I built a simple but string dolly out of 6 wheels from Lee Valley and a 2' x 7' sheet of 3/4" plywood. We unloaded the saw onto the dolly on the street then easily pulled it up the driveway and into my garage. In a couple of weeks, it will be moving from my garage to my shop.

[Kelly C. Hanna]

Congrats Frank! That's going to be one nice machine....

[Tyler Howell]

Great Score Frank. All is safe and sound.:cool:

[mike malone]

Frank...any insanity in the family?...or maybe its the cold??? I know strange things happen in winter as i'm from Montreal.
Don't ask me how i know this, but those suckers are really topheavy. A table saw of that weight would be fairly easy...but something akin to the twin towers...is a "no-no". One drop and it'll take the fun out of the deal. Get major help.
regards
mike

[Norman Hitt]

Congratulations, Frank,

I think you made some Good Decisions all the way around. Enjoy!!!

[Chris DeHut]

Frank,

Glad to see you got that monster saw safely into the garage. I have a hunch you will be very pleased with it and I wan't to see some photos of your first re-sawing efforts!

Chris DeHut

[Frank Pellow]

Frank...any insanity in the family?...or maybe its the cold??? I know strange things happen in winter as i'm from Montreal.
Don't ask me how i know this, but those suckers are really topheavy. A table saw of that weight would be fairly easy...but something akin to the twin towers...is a "no-no". One drop and it'll take the fun out of the deal. Get major help.
regards
mike
Mike, you must have posted this without reading to the end of the thread.

[Ted Shrader]

Frank -

Congratulations on the safe arrival of your saw (at least on your property)! What are your plans to get it around to the shop?

Ted

[Ernie Kuhn]

Frank,
Congratulations. I like the moving dolly. Enjoy.
Ernie

[Frank Pellow]

Frank -

Congratulations on the safe arrival of your saw (at least on your property)! What are your plans to get it around to the shop?

Ted
Thanks Ted.

About the moving plans: In the next couple of weeks I am also having a cabinet table saw, an 8" jointer, a 15' planer, a 17" drill press, and a scroll saw delivered to my garage. Once they are all there, some friends and I will have a moving and set-up party. I will shovel a path through the snow, construct a temporary wooden walkway on that path, roll the machines over the walkway on the big dolly, then tilt then up over the half metre rise through the double doors of my shop. Anyway that's the plan -we will see if things works that way.

[Karl Laustrup]

Frank, if I was a little closer I'd come over and help with that move. Just the thought of all that "new iron" sends chills.:D Of course after the move I would look forward to a cool beverage in front of the stove.:)

Take it easy on the move and follow my advice in my signature line.

[Frank Pellow]

I un-crated enough of my bandsaw yesterday to be able to study it carefully and one thing of interest is that the parts diagram is exactly the same as the diagram the Laguana has on their web site for their 16HD model. The only difference, other than colour and label, seems to be that the ACM machine uses "euro" guides and the Laguna uses "ceramic" guides.

I see that Laguna now has a new 16HD with a bigger motor, bigger re-saw, bigger price, etc. but they don't appear to have updated the manual on their site.

[Frank Pellow]

Yesterday I shoveled a path from the garage to the shop. This afternoon two friends (Emrys and Dave) came over to help me move the saw.

I had thought that we would need to lay down boards, but it proved to be quite easy to move the dolly (with the saw crate screwed to it) over the frozen ground. It also turned out to be quite easy, with one person pulling and two pushing, to get the saw up the ramp into the shop.

The whole job of moving the saw, uncrating it, setting it upright, attaching the mobile base, and attaching the motor, took just under an hour.

Here are three photos:

(1) Preparing to haul the saw up the ramp

(2) The side of the saw with the motor

(3) The moving team on the other side of the saw

[Jim O'Dell]

Frank, that is a good looking Bandsaw!!!! The colors look like a good match to the wall art! Looking forward to seeing more pictures of the shop with the ever increasing number of tools added, and then the final view of you sitting by the stove, drink in hand, surveying your new kingdom. ENJOY! Jim.

[Kelly C. Hanna]

Nice saw Frank!

[John Bailey]

Great job Frank. Shopping for a bandsaw myself and have enjoyed watching your process. Keep up the pictures of your shop as you start doing some work. I look forward to them.

John