For segmented turners

[Jim Colombo]

I'm in the market for a table saw which will be primarily used to cut pieces for segmented bowls. I'm limited for space and would like to keep the cost below $300. From what I've been able to see on the internet, that price range might not give me the accuracy or repeatability I need.
Would you more experienced turners please give me some recommendations?

[Dan Cannon]

I'm in the same boat as you, so I can't offer great advice. However, I decided to pick up an old craftsman cast iron belt driven saw on the cheap. I made sure everything ran true, as far as the arbor and all. I cleaned it up, put a new link belt on it and a new blade. For $120 total invested, I'd venture to say I have a saw that will give good accuracy and repeatability *with the use of a sled*. The high end fence systems are way out of my league (both in dollars and abilities), but with the sled the need for a superior fence is eliminated, at least for the sole purpose of cutting segments. I'm just getting ready for my first sled and segmented piece, so I will report back. I'll be watching this carefully, I'm hoping some of the experts come by and give you some advice.

[Thomas Hamilton]

Hi Jim,
I do a bit of segmented work, and I use my tablesaw for cutting the segments. I've cut on both my old 1970's Sears contractor saw and my new Grizzly cabinet saw. What I found made the most difference in accuracy was the cutting jig I made to use on those saws.
I think if you can buy a saw with a cast iron table that would be a good start. Then they've all got table grooves for the miter. All you've got to do then is make a nice accruate cutting sled to tighly fit the grooves and then get yourself a good carbide blade and you'll be all set.

[Roger Wilson]

Have you considered instead using a benchtop bandsaw and a disk sander on your lathe?

With a bandsaw and the sander you should be able to do everything you need for wood prep in a small footprint.

[David Warkentin]

I agree with Thomas. If your saw blade is running true and you build a good sled you should be fine. I built one out of Malcolm Tibbetts book. Works great! If you haven't gotten his book, I highly reccommend it.

[Paul Douglass]

The older Craftsman table saws have cut a lot of wood. I used one for 30+ years. When I got into woodworking as a hobby and wanted more accurate cuts, I upgraded the fence and miter gauge. I bought a Mule Cabinetmaker fence and an Osborne miter gauge. I liked them both and there are many others equally as good or better. I have since passed the saw on to my son-in-law but I had no complaints with it. Check Craigslist, you can pick them up pretty cheap. $50 and money left over for upgrades.

I don't do segmenting work yet, but I think I could have with the old saw and a few jigs and a good bench top sander.

[Harry Robinette]

Jim
I have the incra miter express it comes with the 1000SE and the new one has a upgrade to that miter slide.It is unbelievable the exactness this slide and table sled system has.Now the bad part it's a little expensive about $350.00 I think.One thing ,check it out the sled is split and helps to keep the small pieces from bouncing around when their cut off. Just a through.
Harry

[Jim Colombo]

David;
The only book I saw on his website was "The Art of Segmented Wood Turning" and I didn't see anything about building a sled in the table of contents. Is there another book you're referencing?
Harry;
I don't see a sled on the Incra 1000SE and for that matter none of the other models either.

I really appreciate the input.

Jim

[Michelle Rich]

I do a ton of segmented turning. I have a 20 yr old Delta contractor's saw and an incra sled. Segmenting requires perfection in cutting. there is no way to get around poor joints in this type of turning. If you can make your own sled for each angle, then great. But an incra sled makes the whole job much easier.Don't rely on sanding to "fix" your badly cut segments. Whose to say your sander is any better than your saw in sanding the angles? My guess is it will only add more error to your pieces. My best advice is to save up $$ for an incra. Once you have it you'll wonder why you worked so long without it. It's great for any project with angles.

[Jim Colombo]

Michelle;
Can I make good segmented bowls with just the saw, Incra system and lathe?
Jim

[Carl Miller]

I had the same problem - needed accuracy but didn't want to spend a lot of dough. I bought an old cast iron table saw for $25 at a garage sale. It was made in 1946 and was someones pride and joy. I replaced the bearings and trued up slots with blades and then made a good sled. The sled seems to be the key. I do all my segemented work with this saw. I haven't found that sanding add much if you use a good sharp blade. The sander on adds one more operation that may be off. The saws table is only about 15 x 18, but it perfect for me and the price was right. I've since bought other saws of this type for my shop, and have always been happy with them. The old ones are better (or so says this old geezer). Good luck.

[Dennis Barley]

Hi, Jim:

Chapter 7 in Tibett's book details the table saw sled. He also very thoroughly covers using a miter saw, which is his preferred method for cutting segments. I've used both, but prefer the table saw and Incra system. You might also want to invest in a quality saw blade and keep it sharp.

Dennis

[David Warkentin]

Thanks Dennis. I was working today. Yes, I think he uses a Kapex which is accurate I understand. I really like the sled I built but would like a 1000se.

[Don Nicholas]

178008178007
David;
The only book I saw on his website was "The Art of Segmented Wood Turning" and I didn't see anything about building a sled in the table of contents. Is there another book you're referencing?
Harry;
I don't see a sled on the Incra 1000SE and for that matter none of the other models either.

I really appreciate the input.

Jim
Jim see the attached photo of the set up I have. I got it from a near by Rockler store in Seattle a couple of years ago. I have not tried it for segmenting as yet, just box making. Possibly someone could post a photo, using this system, on how they set up and hold blanks for segmenting.
Regards
Don

[Peter Fabricius]

Here is a sled I built for segmenting to fit my small table saw. Accuracy is the main aim, use a good quality thin kerf blade that runs true on your saw and make sure the saw and sled are aligned perfectly. I intend to have one sled for each type of segment set at different angles. The one in the picture is set at 15 degrees and is for 12 Segment rings.

Hope this helps. The sled is built from bits and pieces and cost $0.00 except for the optional hold down clamps. (I have added a second clamp to the left side to hold the wood coming into the jig.)

The second photo is of my pen squaring jig where I added a 90 degree piece at the front and inserted a 30 degree wedge. This is held down on the sanding table with a clamp and the segments are finish sanded by holding lightly against the sanding disk. All segments are then checked for "segment length" with calipers.


Peter F

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[Michelle Rich]

Yes. Make sure your saw runs true (no blade wobble), and you have a high quality blade (I use a 54.00 Freud) Fine tune the incra . And turn away. I never sand the ends of my pieces on a sander. I put sandpaper on my table saw bed..I gently take off any burrs or little wisps from my pieces. That's it. The incra is so precise I have made perfect glue ups for 36 piece rows. That is unheard of even in segmenting circles. If you need anymore ideas or help, just ask.