Doug Fir Bookcase

[Bob Winkler]

I'm thinking about building the bookcase featured on the cover of FWW Feb 2003. It is frame and panel construction with cherry for the frame, and QS doug fir for the panels.

I've never built with doug fir before and don't even know where to buy it. My usual source for wood doesn't even carry it. I'm looking for any advice from anyone who has built any furniture with Doug Fir. Basements and room additions don't count ;) .

Thanks for any input.
Bob

[Ralph Barhorst]

I made a CD storage box from Doug fir a couple years ago as a wedding present for my nephew. I enjoyed working with the wood. I bought quarter sawn doug fir at Lowes. I had to go through a large pile of lumber to select the best quarter sawn DF. About 90% of the wood was flat sawn. It is a little expensive at Lowes but it was the only place that I could find it.

The plans were purchased from Norm Abram.

[Matt Meiser]

I built my workbench from Douglas Fir (assuming its the same thing.) I ended up buy 2x12x10 construction lumber and machinining it to the sizes I needed.

[Jerry Ingraham]

I built a pie safe out of 60-70 yr old doug fir and it is beautiful wood, flame orange and lots of grain. Doug fir is very common here in the pacific northwest but not used too often for furniture (at least to my knowledge). That being said, I would and will gladly use it again.

[aurelio alarcon]

A while back my cousin gave me some 2x10x10' douglass fir that is used here in california for forming cement forms on homes. I cut this down to make a small chest of drawers. I found this same type of douglass fir at lowes fairly cheap (2x10x10' for about 8 dollars). It is listed as "green" douglass fir. Does the "green" part of the description mean that it isn't dried? I did find the douglass fir "select", and it is quite a bit more in price. What is exactly the difference?

[Steve Beadle]

I built a pie safe out of 60-70 yr old doug fir and it is beautiful wood, flame orange and lots of grain. Doug fir is very common here in the pacific northwest but not used too often for furniture (at least to my knowledge). That being said, I would and will gladly use it again.
Pie safe, huh? That made my ears perk up, because I have built one pie safe and am building three more. Check your private messages, Jerry, as I have a couple of questions for you!

[Michael Perata]

I've never built with doug fir before and don't even know where to buy it. My usual source for wood doesn't even carry it. I'm looking for any advice from anyone who has built any furniture with Doug Fir.

Bob

The most expensive cabinets I ever installed were made from QS VG Doug Fir and they were spectacular. They would not be everybodies first choice, but QSVG Doug Fir is a very attractive and easy to use wood. I would consider using it for furniture everywhere I would consider the hardier Pines.

Problem #1: You may pay more than $15/BF on your side of the world. The best stuff around here, when available, goes in the teens. :eek:

Problem #2: Pitch pockets. Even in the best and most expensive boards you might cut into a pitch pocket. Need to cut it out of the piece. :(

[Jamie Buxton]

Douglas fir is often sold for building houses. In many places, construction-quality fir is sold green -- that is, full of water. For furniture, you should use fir intended for furniture -- that is, dried down into the 10% area. You may find construction lumber marked "KD". It is only dried to 19%, and is not dry enough for good furniture work.

Clear old-growth doug fir used to be inexpensive, but it is now as pricey as hardwoods. However, it is beautiful stuff. It makes lovely doors, and great Japanese-style furniture.

[Roger Myers]

Bob,
Not what you were asking, but related. I built that bookcase for my daughter but used maple instead of fir to go with the cherry. Came out beautiful - I actually think I like the maple better than the fir. I used maple ply for the panels and solid maple for the shelves. If you look in the archives, I posted pics here at the time. Can offer a few tips as well, on the legs and on the coves for the shelf and top. PM or e-mail me, or just post a ? here. It's a really nice piece and very very solid. May have to build another pretty soon.
Roger

[Roger Bell]

I use it quite a bit for moldings and trim work and the occasional "utility" furniture piece (such as bookshelves for the basement). I use it all the time for shop furniture. We can still get QS or CVG stock around here for reasonable prices and many "better" homes around here use it for millwork (as well as Western Hemlock). You can often hand select some nice pieces from ordinary framing stock in yards (such as HD) that let you pick thru their stacks and pay an ordinary price. I just built a couple of CD storage bookcases last week of 1/2" x 6" QS DF that I paid $1.00/lineal foot for, so the deals are still out there at least in this part of the world.

It is a good choice where strength is needed (such as shelving...). Like most softwoods, finishing is somewhat tricky and the wood will absorb even clear finishes unevenly and will splotch/blotch unless specific measures are taken to prevent it. I don't think it stains very well unless you stick with the very lightest tones. Don't even consider staining it dark unless you want to use an opaque pigment stain (which defeats the purpose anyway). See Flexner or Jewett's recommendations concerning anti-blotching techniques for pine and cherry...these will also work with DF. I have had good luck with Zissner Seal Cote shellac in 2# cut used as a sanding sealer followed by several coats of Waterlox for a clear topcoat. I personally think that QS DF looks best with a clear finish. You will also get some considerable variety in color from board to board, so matching boards up for a furniture project where you want reasonable color continuity will require some careful stock selection.

The wood can also be quite resinous and is hard on tool edges. If you leave a pitch pocket in it it will eventually ooze sap from the finished piece. I find that sharp tools are a must or the wood will tear out quite badly. It will also tear out very easily when drilling if you arent careful (even with very sharp brad points). Hand planing without tearout also requires very sharp tooling...especially with any grain reversal. Although if done right, hand planing can create a beautiful finish that is enhanced by a clear finish. Flatsawn stock does not sand well, due to the difference in density between the earlywood and the late wood. I try not to sand DF if I can help it...its that bad.

Like any other soft wood, it has a propensity to get quite dinged up in "normal" usage....so I wouldn't use it for tables, table legs, etc. , but for your application, it could look very stunning with the cherry frames.

[Steve Cox]

What, you mean you can't just cut down a backyard tree and have a lifetime supply?:D I have 5 100' tall trees in my backyard I could probably let you have since they're too close to the house. Be careful buying Doug Fir from the construction lumber pile. Most times it is designated Hem-Fir which means it is a mix of Doug Fir and Western Hemlock which translates to about 90% hemlock and 10% fir. It is a great wood to work with but can be somewhat soft and the splinters are not pleasant. They'll come out in a week or so after they get infected.

[Bob Winkler]

Bob,
Not what you were asking, but related. I built that bookcase for my daughter but used maple instead of fir to go with the cherry. Came out beautiful - I actually think I like the maple better than the fir. I used maple ply for the panels and solid maple for the shelves. If you look in the archives, I posted pics here at the time. Can offer a few tips as well, on the legs and on the coves for the shelf and top. PM or e-mail me, or just post a ? here. It's a really nice piece and very very solid. May have to build another pretty soon.
Roger
Thanks to all for the replies. After looking again for some KD Douglas Fir, I decided to follow Roger's lead and use Maple for the panels. I already have some maple on hand, and have always liked the maple/cherry contrast. Roger, I hoped my bookcase turns out half as nice as yours.

Bob