Water Based Finishes

[Matt Meiser]

I'm planning to start using water-based spray finishes and have been working on building a knock-down spray booth. I've decided to try some things ahead of time so that I can be ready for my next project. To date, I've mostly been using stain, followed by Minwax wipe-on poly or Watco danish oil. I've used BORG shellac on some shop projects and BLO on my recently completed workbench and tool cabinet. What I don't like about the wipe-on finishes is the amount of time required to complete the process and the fact that my hand usually starts to cramp up from holding the cloth. I do like the end result of these finishes but I'd like to get the speed of spraying.

So my question is what are people using in water-base that is working well and where do you get it? I've heard about Target Coatings, Fuhr, and Homestead Finsihing, but am unclear on what products

[Larry D. Wagner]

Matt,

I've used WB finishes for several years now. I started using them in an air brush when painting Bass Lures, because of easy clean-up and no noxious fumes. I've recently finished a couple of cabinets with acyrlic paint(sprayed) and just finished a face frame and cabinet doors for my daughter with satin Minwax Polycryllic. In my mind, the results were fantastic. I used WB stain, sanding sealer and Polycryllic. I used sponge brushes and rags for stain, regular paint brush for the sanding sealer and I sprayed the poly.(next time will try spraying sealer)

One thing I would recommend is using a good strainer(wife's old nylons work great), and Floe Trol or similar conditioner with your spray mix. I usually add just a little water to get the spray consistency I want. I have used several brands, but use Minwax brand due to ease in obtaining(just about every store sells it) and have been very happy with results.

Larry :) :) :)

[Carl Eyman]

Sorry about the pun (not really) I've used Fuhr 355 in both the satin and gloss. The gloss I rubbed out for a dining table top and it is holding up well 2 1/2 years later. I get all my finishing stuff from Jeff Jewitt at Homestead. If I'm in doubt as to the appropriateness of a finish, he'll set me on right track.

[Jamie Buxton]

My current favorite waterborne spray is Emtech 8000, which is available from Homestead Finishing.

One thing about waterborne finishes is that every one I've ever tried has raised the grain -- particularly on plywood. It helps to sponge water on to the surface and then resand before finishing, but even so I expect to sand again after the first coat. Sanding all the way into inside corners is difficult, so I've taken to finishing surfaces before I assemble stuff.

This isn't difficult. It justs takes planning ahead. For instance, on drawers I cut everything to finished sizes (including edgebanding ply if necessary), then varnish, then cut joinery, then glue up. The freshly-cut joinery has unfinished faces for glue to bond to.

[Jeremy Bracey]

I have used many water based finnishes, however I still prefer pre-cat laquer.

I use a product from M.L. Campbell for both. You can check thier website for availability.

It is used in many professional furniture shops and is mostly available through specialty paint stores.

Thier water based product is better than any other Ive tried. My second favorite is Crystal-laq.

[Bill Grumbine]

Matt, I am with Carl on the Fuhr finishes. I also use 355 for a production job I do, and have used it for several pieces of furniture as well. One thing about it is that you will need to consider the final appearance. WB finishes impart almost no color to the wood at all, so you may need to dye your piece first if you are trying to match that oil based finish. But for speed and ease of cleanup it is hard to beat WB. What used to take three days because of drying time now takes less than three hours.

Bill

[Matt Meiser]

What used to take three days because of drying time now takes less than three hours.

I really like the sound of that!

[Jeremy Bracey]

If time is your primary concern. nitrocellulose laquer dries in about 20 minutes most of the time for me. SMELLY, but if your creating a spray booth, wear a respirator and be done with it. Water based products are nice because they have no fumes, but you cant beat the finnish of a solvent based material. (just my opinion).

[Jim Becker]

I normally spray Target Coatings USL, but have also used Fuhr International 9100. Recently, I tried out the TC Emtec sealer and liked it as well as their water-bourne shellac...which was "ok", but I like the look of regular shellac better.

The good news is that there is quite a bit of selection out there on water bourne finishes today and it's growing all the time. Every time I visit the Target Coatings site, there is usually something new to consider!

[Scott Parks]

Another vote for Target Coatings here. I have only brushed it and got good results. I'm planning on buying a sprayer soon, but it brushes O.K.

[Paul Dwight]

I spray Fuhr 375 and 255 acrylic varnishes. The 375 has a slight amber tint that makes it look more like solvent-based varnish. The 255 is the more durable finish of the two, but it takes several weeks to completely cross-link. Even the 375 is an extremely durable finish, probably tougher even than solvent-based polyurethane.

The good news (especially for a beginner) is that both the 375 and the 255 are extremely easy to spray. Plus, clean up is a breeze.

I think both Fuhr finishes look very good, but I'll admit it takes me an extra step to get there. You know how you can wet a piece of wood with mineral spirits or water to see how it will look with a finish on it? That works because the mineral spirts or water mimics the way solvent-based finishes "wet" the wood. A finish that "wets" the wood helps to accentuate the grain and generally looks deeper and richer. Well, I have yet to see a waterbased topcoat that "wets" the wood like this. The fact that they don't "wet" the wood is one of the reasons why waterbased topcoats impart almost no color to light woods like maple.

To get the look of "wet" wood, I apply a coat of dewaxed shellac under the Fuhr topcoats. I generally just shoot a coat of Zinnser SealCoat cut a little bit with alcohol. Works great.

One last suggestion: I stop after I have applied two or three full wet coats of the Fuhr finish. Three coats are plenty of protection for any residential application I can imagine, and after three coats the film thickness builds up to the point that it looks a little unnatural, IMO.

Hope this helps. -- Paul