Looking for a paring chisel

[John Coloccia]

I'm looking to pick up some nice paring chisels. I'm really not interested in a bench chisel with a long handle, like the Lie-Nielsens. I want a real paring chisel with a long blade.

Who's making nice paring chisels these days?

[James Baker SD]

I know that the Sorbys have a hit or miss reputation these days, but I have nearly the full set (about 10 years old) and I got lucky--mine take a sharp edge and hold it. And they are the true paring chisel you are describing. Cannot advise though, on how to get lucky. Maybe you could give the Sorbys a try if you can find a dealer who will take them back if they don't hold the edge.

James

[Andrae Covington]

I'm looking to pick up some nice paring chisels. I'm really not interested in a bench chisel with a long handle, like the Lie-Nielsens. I want a real paring chisel with a long blade.

Who's making nice paring chisels these days?

The only long paring chisels I'm aware of (besides vintage of course) are Robert Sorby and Henry Taylor. The blades are 9-10" and overall 14-16". I've never used them or seen them in person so can't comment about quality and feel.

[Howard Pollack]

There are wonderful Japanese versions available (I bought one from Hida that I love), I'd also look at the Blue Spruce chisels. -Howard

[Gil Knowles]

John
LV carries Sorby's.
http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.aspx?p=30014&cat=1,41504

Gil

[Jonathan McCullough]

I've been on the hunt for some of those too. I've got some crank necked pattern maker's gouges and I'd like some long paring chisels that are offset like that. Diefenbacher tools sells some Buck Bros. types on Amazon. I've got the Buck Brothers firmers from Craftsman Studios and I rather like the steel. But I think the blades on the crank necks should be longer, at least 8" like the Henry Taylors sold at Traditional Woodworker. Those are $60 - $80 apiece though.

[John Coloccia]

Maybe I'll give the Taylors a try. I too am a bit leery of the current batch of Sorby based on what I've seen first hand, and also some feedback others have given. There's nothing really awful about them but I think their steal softer than it should be.

[Pam Niedermayer]

I just love the Japanese ultra thin push chisels, they make me feel so confident every time I use one. Here are some: Yamahiro from Iida (http://japantool-iida.com/chisel_others/2008/05/migakishiage-polishing-finish-1.html)
Please note that I don't have these or these: Ouchi from Iida (http://japantool-iida.com/chisel_others/2008/05/very-thin-push-chisel-by-ouchi.html); but I do have the non-polished (about half the cost) version of these: Tasai from Iida (http://japantool-iida.com/chisel_others/2008/05/migakishiage-polishing-finish.html).

Pam

[Rick Fisher]

I have the Blue Spruce with the long blades.. Nicest chisel I ever owned or used..

http://i335.photobucket.com/albums/m455/jokerbird_photo/P1170324.jpg

http://i335.photobucket.com/albums/m455/jokerbird_photo/P1170325.jpg

http://i335.photobucket.com/albums/m455/jokerbird_photo/P1170326.jpg

[Tony Zaffuto]

I have 4 of the long Sorbys (true paring chisel). Bought them one at a time over the past ten years and only one of them was a bit soft at the tip, as originally supplied. However, after honing back about 1/8" (+/-) steel was as good as the others. Mine are hone at 20 degrees and paring chisels are pushed and not used with a mallet.

[Terry Beadle]

+1 on the Blue Spruce paring chisels. I have a 5/8ths and it's a real pleasure to use. I also have a sword steel Japanese paring chisel and like Pam said, it's not only a confidence builder but it really keeps an edge. Only lite honing required to keep it in tune and that only after quite a while's use.

[James Taglienti]

i saw some blue spruce a while back and was pretty unimpressed with a slab of bar stock jammed into a rosewood handle and dubbed a chisel. but people seem to love them...

[george wilson]

You can take a thickness planer blade and make a long paring chisel out of it. The guys in the millwork Shop in Williamsburg used to do that. They seemed to take pride in who could make the longest chisel! I have used HSS planer blades myself,and they work fine. The Blue Spruce looks like it was made that way. No bolster,just jammed into a handle.

[Jessica Pierce-LaRose]

I only have a couple of the smaller sizes myself, but I've been quite happy with the chisels LMI (Luthiers Mercantile) sells. They aren't bevel edged, but I've been sharpening and using mine as paring chisels, given the length. I find the handles to be some of the most comfortable for me. (Although also the most roll-off-the-bench ready)

[Matt Winterowd]

I'd be really curious to hear about the Taylors. Their turning tools are really great, but I've never heard anything about their hand tools.

[Chuck Nickerson]

I have the Blue Spruce 1" paring chisel. One nice feature is the blade's only 1/8" thick, giving it better reach in tight places.
On the flip side, it's taking me quite a while to get back to the good steel. This is regarded as a common problem with A2 chisels.

[george wilson]

A2 WILL decarborize about 1/32" of depth all over its surface if any air is allowed to get to it during hardening. If this has happened to your chisel,Chuck,you will never get back to "the good metal",because that 1/32" depth will have happened all over the tool.

[Jonathan McCullough]

John C: got your PM and sent another but got the same result.

[John Coloccia]

I fixed that, Jonathan. My account had expired and I had to renew my donation. I didn't even realize it. The notification just came a couple of days ago on an account I don't check everyday, and then suddently, POOF, I'm not a contributor anymore. I sent you a PM. I should be good to receive again now.

[Brian Ashton]

You can take a thickness planer blade and make a long paring chisel out of it. The guys in the millwork Shop in Williamsburg used to do that. They seemed to take pride in who could make the longest chisel! I have used HSS planer blades myself,and they work fine. The Blue Spruce looks like it was made that way. No bolster,just jammed into a handle.

Did you guys anneal the tangs and such when you used planer blades?

[Sean Hughto]

What operations specifically do you use paring chisels for in your work? I've ocassionally had uses for them, but not often. Just wondering what I'm missing.

[John Coloccia]

I pare all the time for instrument building. I generally don't do any furniture building at the moment. I could see the limited usefulness for furniture building. For instruments, I'm constantly shaving a bit off here, or trimming a bit over there. Then I turn it over and use it bevel down to do a little carving here and there. I've just been using bench chisels mostly. Now I'm looking for some real paring chisels. The long blade is nice for this kind of work as I can anchor the hand holding the blade, and steer it through the cut with the other hand without running into the tang a couple of inches into it. It allows me to make a long, graceful cut in one motion. It also gives me more option re: where to anchor my hands. It can be remarkably hard finding someplace to anchor to on a guitar and often it's several inches away from where you need to be.

[Jessica Pierce-LaRose]

hrm - I just got home from work and measured my LMI chisels that I mentioned previously; as much as I like them, I don't know if they're really paring chisels; they have the thin, almost flexible blade, but they're only 5 inches or so in the blade, not the 7 and a half or so of my vintage marples paring chisels. So never mind my recommendation.

[george wilson]

HSS isn't practical to anneal. It's TEMPERED at 1000º !!

Too bad you weren't at the annual antique and tool show in Richmond last weekend. There were a number of long paring chisels around. The most interesting ones were some new old stock Buck Bros. Unfortunately,they were in a so called "set" of 6 mixed chisels and LARGE gouges for about $450.00.

The chisels were very long,and thin. There was one each of a 2",a 1 1/2",and a 7/8" chisel. The striking thing about them was that they were polished (original factory finish) like chrome,yet their corners were nice and sharp,not sluffed over like 2 Cherries or Hirsch. I mean,these did not have a single grinding mark on them AT ALL!! They still had wax on them,but mostly worn off. The gouges were a 2",a 1 1/2",and one I can't remember. I wouldn't say the chisels were particularly flat on their backs. All were socket chisels.

What they were,were large sizes no one ever bought. I've seen other NOS chisels and gouges like that,too. Mint condition,never sold,too big.

There was another 2" paring chisel in very nearly new condition,also highly polished. It's back was not flat at all,and actually had a rather sharp angle to it that made it hollow about 3" from the bevel. I would not have expected to flatten it without getting it red hot,and completely having to re harden,temper,and re polish it.

A few yeas ago I got a nice Moulson 2" paring chisel there,about 1/8" thick at the bevel. Maybe thinner. It will take a great edge.

I am sure there were other paring chisels,too. I recall a 1" one. There were at least 4 sets of a dozen carving tools. 2 sets were old Marples. I can't remember what make the others were.

I bought a nice Moulson toothing plane in nearly new condition. Paid too much,probably,but easier than making one. Also got some NOS files,and a few other tools.

[John Coloccia]

Now what the heck am I going to do with a 2" chisel? Maybe when I finally get around to building that log cabin I dream about! One thing we DO have in common is that special sort of insanity that allows us to get excited over a NOS file. LOL....oh what I wouldn't give for a straight file :) I gave up and now use a quartz slab with sandpaper on it for fret leveling. There's a gentleman that sells them on ebay. They're reasonably priced, and they're FLAT....dead flat.

[george wilson]

For a fret file,I cut the tang off a mill file,then drill a hole at each end of the file with a masonry drill,and countersink with a larger masonry drill. Then,I screw it down to a piece of maple,and put paper shims behind the file so that it is straight when I screw it down tight.

This won't work with files with an S curve to them. I HATE plastic packaged files. Just have to buy the blasted things and HOPE for the best.

As I said,those chisels and gouges were LARGE size left overs being CALLED a set!!:) I do find things to do with my Moulson,though.

[Pam Niedermayer]

What operations specifically do you use paring chisels for in your work? I've ocassionally had uses for them, but not often. Just wondering what I'm missing.

Dai making, guitar making, art box making, carving, general neatening up.

Pam

[Randy Briggs]

Maybe I'll give the Taylors a try. I too am a bit leery of the current batch of Sorby based on what I've seen first hand, and also some feedback others have given. There's nothing really awful about them but I think their steal softer than it should be.

The Best Things has pretty competitive prices and they have both the Sorby and Taylors in stock. I'm trying the 1.5" Sorby but thought long about the 1 1/4 Taylor.

[Randy Briggs]

I've been on the hunt for some of those too. I've got some crank necked pattern maker's gouges and I'd like some long paring chisels that are offset like that. Diefenbacher tools sells some Buck Bros. types on Amazon. I've got the Buck Brothers firmers from Craftsman Studios and I rather like the steel. But I think the blades on the crank necks should be longer, at least 8" like the Henry Taylors sold at Traditional Woodworker. Those are $60 - $80 apiece though.

I've got the Bucks set but wanted to get an larger one. They're a little rough but I've spent some time on them and they sharpen up nicely. They are ground at 25 IIRC, so I had to flatten down to 20 for paring.

[John Coloccia]

Well, I'm ordering a set of Taylors from TheBestThings today. We'll see how they do. The Blue Spruce look interesting but they are very expensive and have a 3-4 week lead time. I have a couple of projects coming up and I really need something I can use today. There are really very few choices when it comes to traditional patternmaker's chisels. It's like finding pig sticker mortise chisels. I'm really rather surprised that LN doesn't offer any such thing.

Does anyone know what steel the Taylors are made out of?

edit: specifically, I ordered a 1/4", 1/2" and 1" to start. I'll fill out from there with either more Taylors, maybe Blue Spruce or some home made concoction :)

[Jeff Duncan]

I'm in the same place right now trying to decide between waiting for a nice vintage set to show up, or buy new and allow it to turn vintage with me:D

John, how did you make out with the Taylor chisels?

JeffD

[Richard Shaefer]

I'm looking to pick up some nice paring chisels. I'm really not interested in a bench chisel with a long handle, like the Lie-Nielsens. I want a real paring chisel with a long blade.

Who's making nice paring chisels these days?

I have an unhealthy love of old Stanley 720 paring chisels.
they don't make them anymore, but you can certainly find them used.

[John Coloccia]

I'm in the same place right now trying to decide between waiting for a nice vintage set to show up, or buy new and allow it to turn vintage with me:D

John, how did you make out with the Taylor chisels?

JeffD

I would buy them again and I recommend them. Kicking around here somewhere is me fooling around on YouTube for about a 1/2 hour with a new Worksharp 3000 and the Taylors fresh out of the package. Bottom line is that I'm happy. They're exactly what I wanted and I use them almost every day. I worked a project just the other day, in fact, where I had to trim a bunch of end grain and I though to myself just how happy I am to have dedicated paring chisels with 20 to 25 degree bevels on them.

[Chris Fournier]

I've used Sorbys while making guitars for 20 years. They've been good to me.

[Erik Manchester]

I had recently posted on another forum that I had found a few vintage paring chisels on the web in the last few years. Of the five chisels shown below, the upper two are Bucks with cranked handles and the lower three are English, I believe old Sorby chisels. The lower three came together for $30 in a midweek auction with poor quality pics. I use them often enough though they are not sharpened to a 20 deg bevel as some might. They have a nice dark patina, but it isn't rust, and hold an edge very well.

http://i770.photobucket.com/albums/xx344/beletuen/Tools/Paring%20Chisels/DSC02711_zps4899d7ac.jpg

http://i770.photobucket.com/albums/xx344/beletuen/Tools/Paring%20Chisels/DSC02718_zpsb26b976a.jpg

[Ryan Baker]

I have some of the Taylors too and like them. (I also have a Sorby. It is OK, but too soft like all Sorby tools.)

Vintage long paring chisels are good if you can find them for a reasonable price. Most of the decent ones I have been seeing lately are overpriced.

[george wilson]

Chris,if you have been using Sorbys for 20 years and are happy,don't sell them!!! We had Sorbys a lot older than that kicking around in Williamsburg,and they were very sift. I had to re harden some of the Sorby lathe chisels to make them keep an edge longer. No telling what kind of steel(what carbon content) they were made from,though. The 19th.C. Sorbys were just fine. I don't know when they started making them too soft.

[Jack Curtis]

My favorite paring chisels are the Tasai, and on occasion, other ultra thin. They are not matched by vintage western versions that I've tried (like Swan, Witherby, Buck, etc.), but Addis carving chisels come real close.