Marking - Layout - Measuring Tools

[John Dingman]

Hey all,

I have seen a lot of different marking, layout and measuring tools used in the different videos that I have watched. I was wondering what your favorite tool for each task is and if you could get another tool for those tasks which one would it be.

I know there are a lot of gadgets out there. I want to know what tools are really necessary or helpful to have for these tasks.

Thanks!
John

[Mark Singer]

Digital calipers for height , thickness, width measurements. Small double square. Brass wheel marking guage. Tape measure. Bar gauge for transfering measurements. Steel hook rule. Marking knife and pencil. Larger square and "T" square.

[Jerry Crawford]

That about covers the waterfront

[Tim Leo]

What is a bar gauge?

[Bob Smalser]

1) Digital calipers for height , thickness, width measurements. 2) Small double square. 3) Brass wheel marking guage. 4) Tape measure. 5) Bar gauge for transfering measurements. 6) Steel hook rule. 7) Marking knife and pencil. 8) Larger square and "T" square.



Lotsa ways to skin this cat....I don't use any of the above except for the pencil/knife.

Digital calipers? For drill bits and holes, yes.

8" folding rule with brass extension (inside corners). Tape for rough cutting and diagonals.

24" Bi-fold rule (preferred).

Ticking sticks occasionally (transfers profiles).

3-tine mortise gage and single-tine marking gage.

Try Square, Speed Square, bevel gages, dovetail squares, machinist's depth gage and combo square.

Panel gage and trammels occasionally.

Marking knife/awl combo. Pencil and crayon for rough cutting only.

Dividers, inside calipers, outside calipers....all in two or more sizes....I have some big ones I wouldn't be without.

I make a habit of taking diagonals rather than use a square larger than a Speed Square, let alone a T-Square...and strongly recommend it.

[Tim Sproul]

I like having chalk/ink lines - mostly for cutting off rough edges of stock on the bandsaw or....if the mood hits, using a handsaw.

bag gauges - http://www.leevalley.com/images/item/woodworking/markmeasure/05n3101s4.jpg
Those from Lee Valley are what I like but it is a rather easy thing to devise your own. I have several sets so I can take measures for small boxes to large casework. Transfer measures and check for a square assembly.

Squares - pick and choose whatever you'd like. I'd suggest a small one (3 inches or so), a medium one - 6 inches or so and a framing square size....get one in between the framing square size and 6 inch too. I use the larger squares a lot for marking out handle placement on drawer fronts/cabinet doors. small one is used for checking my edge jointing. A combo or double square works in most situations to check on mortise depth.

A straight edge or two.

Marking knives or knife.

Dividers - excellent tool for laying out dovetails. I'd also make or obtain dovetail markers for those times you want really well layed-out dovetails.

I like the double knife mortise kebiki (japanese marking gauge). The one that Hida tool sells is worth the bit extra over the JWW, IMO.

Sliding bevel gauges are also good to have around....I have both sizes of the Veritas and use both.

tape measure - used much more for finish carpentry/built-in cabinetry work.

[Ellen Benkin]

My absolute favorite -- always carried in my pocket -- is a 4" double square.

[Mark Singer]

I know some people don't use them, But I agree with you it was on my list above and it is great for checking machine set up..mortise/ tenon/ depths/ height of blade / squareness for small things.....it is a real muli purpose tool.
My absolute favorite -- always carried in my pocket -- is a 4" double square.

[Mark Singer]

I like the one Tim showed below from Veritas...you cut your own bars..from wood...I have 3 in different sizes..Great for transfering dimensions..
What is a bar gauge?

[Jim Dunn]

All the things a tool room machinist would normally have. Haven't used my sine plate to set up angles nor my trig charts to work out compound angles YET:)

Still purchasing such things as marking knives, awls and the like designed specificly for wood working.

[Jim Becker]

I use my Starrett double square (6") a lot as Ellen does for layout work as well as an 18" steel rule. Those two things get the most use in my shop.

[Ryan Singer]

Most importantly is to create methods you actually use and do this religiously. wood working is a religious experience. and there are methods to the madness

there's lots of things to consider:
1. pick a side of the pencil line. cut to that side. make sure you have a consistant pencil tip

2. learn "your" tools. take into consideration the thickness of your blade+ whatever it tears out.. (again...never cut on the line)

3. straightening.. not all pieces of wood are made equal. every tree varies because of watering and how it grew.. there could be a bend.. drying issues..

4. start and finish your production line. if you are making a bunch of something, set your machine up once for a proceedure and then make all of those cuts. it's good practice to make a few extra units for a test or mock ups. there might be some screw ups in assembly or some that are bad pieces of wood.

5. sanding.. it's also assembly line thinking. start with roughest and go to smoothest.

the idea of measuring diagonals sounds good. We used to do this when I worked in a metalshop for Frank Smart.


...I make a habit of taking diagonals rather than use a square larger than a Speed Square, let alone a T-Square...and strongly recommend it.

as a general design rule, I like to use "whole" numbers to simplify the measure process. it makes adding easier. but to each their own..

good luck ;)

[Jim Dunn]

Generally use decimals, but it's a preference I started my apprenticeship program. Only used fractions to describe closest "whole" number for picking out materials. Even then "whole" numbers were usually on prints as 3 or more decimals places.

[Bob Smalser]

...I make a habit of taking diagonals rather than use a square larger than a Speed Square, let alone a T-Square...and strongly recommend it.


...as a general design rule, I like to use "whole" numbers to simplify the measure process. it makes adding easier. but to each their own..

Guess I was muddy again. Sorry.

My point is that newbies tend to reach for a longer square when they would be much better served accuracy-wise by taking diagonals....either outside with a tape or inside with an extension rule or bar gage. Nothing to do with whole numbers at all.

[Keith Christopher]

I get the most use from my teeny square. I love it for marking mortises and tenons. I also am making a marking trammel arm that will do up to 35". I'll post a pic when it's done.

[Steve Wargo]

An old stright chip carving knife. It's probably from arounf the 50's and Paul teases me about the fact that it looks terrible and doesn't cut worth a darn. The fact is the steel is so crappy that it just won't take an edge. My Grandfather gave it to me and it's one of the few tools he gave me that I have a use for. So I use it. It's about a 3 1/2" straight blade sharpened to a point on the end. It has a little flex, but works fine for marking all hand cut joinery.

[Doug Shepard]

One of my absolute favorites for marking/measuring is this little 3" Incra T-Rule. I've got longer ones too, but this is the one that gets used 95% of the time. Don't know of anyone else besides Hartville selling the 3" version, but at only $15, competition doesn't really seem to be an issue.

http://www.hartvilletool.com/product/10841

[Bob Hovde]

My point is that newbies tend to reach for a longer square when they would be much better served accuracy-wise by taking diagonals....either outside with a tape or inside with an extension rule or bar gage. Nothing to do with whole numbers at all.


This is the fastest, most accurate, way to check for squareness - when you're sure the opposite sides are the same length! I caught my builder laying out a perfect tetrahedron for my foundation footer. The diagonals were exactly the same, but one side was longer than its opposite.

Bob

[Mark Singer]

Checking diagnols will work well for anything that is rectangular and large. If you are checking a stretcher to leg for squareness...there is no other side...you must use a square. Also on small drawers a square is more accurate since the position of the rule is critical on a small object. For machine set up...a square will tell you if the bandsaw table and blade are at 90 degrees... Both methods are very good it depends on the application...in chair building there are typically no diagnols to pull since the legs are at angles...
This is the fastest, most accurate, way to check for squareness - when you're sure the opposite sides are the same length! I caught my builder laying out a perfect tetrahedron for my foundation footer. The diagonals were exactly the same, but one side was longer than its opposite.

Bob

[Davy Barr]

One of my favorite and most used marking tools in the shop is the Veritas large saddle square. Sure does come in handy.

[Joel Moskowitz]

I use the following 12" combination square (occasioanlly with an 18" blade) a 4" and 2 1/2" double square.
One of several cominbation gauges and a panel gauge (so I can keep settings saved)
a tape measure.

The squares are used almost always for square only. In general I hardly ever make an actual measurement. THe first piece is cut to what is needed and everything else is scribed to fit.
The tape is used to check diagnols.

[Ed Hardin]

I use the little 4" double square from veritas constantly. It is always in my pocket and use it for everything from marking lines to setting blade heights. I also keep the steel 6" 18" and 24" rules from LV really handy.

[Ryan Singer]

No, measuring has nothing to do with whole numbers.. Diagonals are a good way to check for squareness.

About WHOLE NUMBERS..that is my 2 cents on design ethics and not so much on construction. I think a good designer should be able to make something easy to build. whole numbers make it faster when adding, that's all..

you weren't muddy Bob ;)


Guess I was muddy again. Sorry.

My point is that newbies tend to reach for a longer square when they would be much better served accuracy-wise by taking diagonals....either outside with a tape or inside with an extension rule or bar gage. Nothing to do with whole numbers at all.