Bought some powdered aniline dye... Now what?

[Jim Underwood]

I bought some powdered aniline dye- red, blue, yellow. Figured I could mix to make other colors.

Came in plastic bags with no instructions, nada.

Yeah. the website says it mixes about 1 oz to one quart of hot water. That's it? That's the extent of instructions? Holy moley!

What now?:confused:

[Jim Burr]

Sure...use DNA if you want too! I use an old T-shirt or paper towels. You can airbrush it, paint brush it...whatever you'd like! Stock up on your Styrofoam cups!
Oh yeah...remember the raised grain post application!

[Cathy Schaewe]

The first stuff I got, I mixed up half the package, and still have 90% of the mix left. Since then, I've only mixed up very small amounts as I've wanted them (think small baby food jars), and that way I'm able to get the tone I want. I just eyeball it ...

[Bob Bergstrom]

Some aniline dyes will also dissolve in alcohol. If so you'll get more even color with that mix. If water is used it will penetrate deeper into the wood. Sometime (like on birch or pine) it will appear blotchy. The dye I use I mix with shellac and lacquer. With red, yellow, blue and black, you can make almost any color. I also use a airbrush to apply it. That give a very uniform color.

[Bob Bergstrom]

I use my old pill bottle to store dyes. Nice little bottles with tight lids

[Peter Elliott]

I work with a lot of dyes. First off, get some good nytril gloves. Because this stuff will stain your hands for a long time if you get it on you. Second is the carrier to use.. Water or DNA, or even both.. Look in the finishing forum and just search for your dye type.. Just like turning, there is many ways to use this stuff. Water is good but you need to Pre raise the grain, light sand prior to applying the dye. Pre raise with what ever the carrier you choose, most likely water. You may still get post grain raise after applying the dye. DNA will be the least of raising the grain. But be careful about the fumes and fire hazard associated with it. I spray all my dyes. It's very hard to to wipe a dna/dye. It flashes way to quick. I would start with water/dye mix. Just remember when it dries, it will give an tone different to when it was applied. Don't freak out, you need a "top coat of choice" to bring back the original tone you wanted.

I could go on but much is written in smc finish section. I highly suggest you do a sample board. Complete the entire process including a finish coat to see if this suites your taste. Dyes can be adjusted with a bit more concentration or adding different color for a final tone you want.

I keep a sample board for each "brew" I make so I can go back and reference what I want to apply to a project.

I would also do a "seal" coat over the dye before moving onto a final finish. Dewax shellac works nice, just a few light coats, sand then move on to finish coat.

Good luck and wear gloves.
-Peter

[Jim Underwood]

Thanks for all the suggestions!

If I could mix this stuff with sealer or lacquer, that'd be great. I could just spray it on...

But it came with nary a speck of info.. no chemical makeup, no solubility, or application instructions.

It's the Craft Supplies powdered Aniline dye product. When I hear back from the gal I ordered it from, I'll let you know what I find out.

I suppose that applying some to some experimental turnings is the order of the day....

[Marc Himes]

Jim, I use dyes quite a bit. I have both the powdered and liquid dyes and use both. I started with powdered dyes which are water soluble and made a bunch of sample pieces on 1"x3" pieces of wood using various combinations of the primary colors (R1 Y1 B1, R1 Y1 B2, R1 Y2 B2, R2 Y2 B2 and so on) using 1/8 tsp dyes to 1 ounce of water. This gave me an idea of the combinations achievable. Using water alone raises the grain, so as others have replied, it is good to raise the grain and sand to a very fine grit (600) before applying dye. Mixing the dye with DNA doesn't always dissolve it well but dissolving the powder in a small amount of water then adding DNA works for me and dries much quicker than water. I haven't sprayed the dye on my pieces yet but that sounds worth trying as streaking can be a problem. Streaking can also be minimized by a liberal application of DNA on the wood just before you apply the dye. Layering the colors over each other after they dry also give you a different effect than mixing them together.

I love turning and adding color and texture adds more fun and excitement.

Experiment and enjoy!

Marc Himes

[John Keeton]

Jim, I have tinted lacquer with Transtint dyes and it works great. I haven't sprayed it (brushing lacquer), but see no reason why you couldn't use it in your spray lacquer. The effect will be different, however.

[Bernie Weishapl]

Haven't sprayed it yet but have mixed it with water and DNA. Be aware that mixing with water as was said will raise the grain. DNA doesn't.