Bandsaw Tension Crank?

[Rob Price]

I'm breaking in my new Jew BS, and finally getting the hang of quickly switching out blades, setting it up, etc. One frustrating thing is the tension knob. It's right at the top of the saw, so I really can't palm it (I have big hands anyways) without rubbing my knuckles on the saw each turn. I swapped from a 1/8" blade to a 1/2 blade the other day and it seemed like I spent 10 minutes just turning the tension knob to get it up to tension. So I said to myself, "there's gotta be a better way." My saw alreay has a "quick release" but it really doesn't remove that much tension.

Looking around I see the Carter ratchet, which is a great idea, but they want $50 for it.

I see some cheapo handles on Amazon, but they replace the threaded rod, and one reviewer said he bent the rod the first time.

Is there a quality crank out there for a reasonable price? I've seen some people have welded a socket to theirs, but I don't have those skills or equipment. Or do I just bite the bullet and get the carter crank?

[Neil Brooks]

I can tell you this: I got the Carter, and am VERY, VERY glad I did.

On my Grizzly GO555X, I gave up the quick release tension lever (probably don't have to, but ... ), mostly because it's SO easy to give the knurled, rather star-like knob on the Carter a half-dozen twists, and take the tension way down....

My OEM threaded rod was garbage -- munged threads. Locked up tension assembly. Quickly and easily replaced by Grizzly -- of course -- but the Acme threads on the Carter are baby smooth, and really effortless.

Where it used to be work getting the last few turns on, to properly tension a 1/2" blade ... I NOW have to be careful not to OVER-tension, using the Carter.

It's that easy.

Also, the notion that I could remove the knob, and use a 3/8" wrench/torque wrench -- either to speed it up (unnecessary, IMHO) or use a torque wrench to achieve consistent tension results, for each blade, for each use ... is pretty cool.

Could it be done other ways, including DIY, and cheaper ? Prolly. Yeah. Sure.

But I thought it was money well spent.

[John Nesmith]

I have the same problem with my Ridgid. I wonder if something like this (http://www.amazon.com/Bandsaw-Tension-Peachtree-Woodworking-PW1769/dp/B0048J53TW) is worth the money.

[Neil Brooks]

I have the same problem with my Ridgid. I wonder if something like this (http://www.amazon.com/Bandsaw-Tension-Peachtree-Woodworking-PW1769/dp/B0048J53TW) is worth the money.

Gotta' wonder what this means:


Does not work with band saws that are already outfitted with factory tension cranks.

[Randy Reitz]

I got the cheap crank version and it really made a big difference. Now I just back it off ten turns after I'm done using it and crank it back up when I'm ready to use it again. It is so much easier to adjust than the little knob.

I looked at the heavy wheel version from Highland, but it was just for a generic Taiwanese 14" saw so I saved a few bucks. The crank, some Cool Blocks, and a little research online and in a couple bandsaw books, and finally a little tweaking left me with a much more usable saw. Oh, and also a good blade. Now it's fun to use instead of a battle.

[John Nesmith]

Gotta' wonder what this means:

That's funny. I noticed the same thing. I just emailed them to ask about it.

[John Nesmith]

I got the cheap crank version and it really made a big difference.

Which "cheap crank version"?

[Randy Reitz]

Like the Peachtree you mentioned above. I think I ended up ordering from R & D Bandsaw up in Canada because I was ordering some other replacement parts from them. I really like the look of the heavy wheel crank from Highland, and I think there was also one available from Iturra when I ordered mine, but it seemed hard to justify a $45 wheel over a $15 crank for a cheap import.

I forgot to mention above that I sorted out how to do the "flutter" method of tensioning the blade and that also made a big difference. The crank really helps in the "flutter" method.

[Van Huskey]

I have set up a few cast clones with several different tensioning options and I must say the Carter solution is by far the best I have seen. I didn't like the cranks because of their tendency to rock the saw, not a real issue by any stretch I just found it annoying. I however love the bandsaw so much I never think of it as a place to skimp, if you are one that only uses it occasionally you might not appreciate the $50 worth of precision the Carter ratchet rod brings to the equation.

[John Nesmith]

Like the Peachtree you mentioned above. I think I ended up ordering from R & D Bandsaw up in Canada because I was ordering some other replacement parts from them. I really like the look of the heavy wheel crank from Highland, and I think there was also one available from Iturra when I ordered mine, but it seemed hard to justify a $45 wheel over a $15 crank for a cheap import.

I forgot to mention above that I sorted out how to do the "flutter" method of tensioning the blade and that also made a big difference. The crank really helps in the "flutter" method.

Thanks. I think I'm gonna give it a try.

[Kent A Bathurst]

I got a $15 +/- crank from somewhere for my delta. Works great. Use it a lot. Haven't bent it. Yet. Nearly anything beats the heck outta that annoying knob.

That being said, I am absolutely convinced that nearly anything you get from Carter or Louis Iturra on the mechanical/upgrade side is gonna work well. Well, except maybe tensioning gauges, but let's not reopen that can o' worms for the Nth time.............

[Wayne Cannon]

The Carter tensioning lever is worth every penny. Three positions -- taut, relaxed, and loose. Easy.

[Harvey Pascoe]

Yep, I got the big machine wheel crank from Highland and can't imagine life without it. A bargain compared to the little plastic knob that came with my delta. I got $800 worth of improvements on my machine which turns it into a jewel instead of the barely functional machine I originally bought.

[John Nesmith]

The Carter tensioning lever is worth every penny. Three positions -- taut, relaxed, and loose. Easy.

Kinda hard for me to justify, since I only paid $150 for my used Ridgid 14".

[lowell holmes]

I put this crank on my 14" Jet.

I think is less obtrusive than the levers.

I works great.

http://www.highlandwoodworking.com/quik-crank-bandsaw-tensioner.aspx

[Phil Thien]

How does the ratcheting unit from Carter help you over the standard knob? It looks to be about the same size as the knob on my saw now.

[Neil Brooks]

How does the ratcheting unit from Carter help you over the standard knob? It looks to be about the same size as the knob on my saw now.

Ordinarily, I wouldn't refer somebody to the marketing hype, but ... they've got it right on the Carter site:

http://www.carterproducts.com/product.asp?product_id=456&cat_id=16

Could you buy an aftermarket cast iron handwheel, and make it even spiffier ? If you prefer handwheels, I guess so. Might generate more torque.

But I don't think you need more torque. That's the point and the beauty. The Acme threaded rod makes tensioning blades pretty darned effortless.

And ratcheting is just ... easier and more intuitive.

[Neil Brooks]

The Carter tensioning lever is worth every penny. Three positions -- taut, relaxed, and loose. Easy.

I'll take a risk here, and say that ... what Wayne means is that adjustments are so easy that ... you

flick the knob a few turns clockwise to tension,
flick it a few turns CCW to relax it
flick it a few MORE turns CCW to loosen it, like for blade changes

[Kent A Bathurst]

I put this crank on my 14" Jet.

I think is less obtrusive than the levers.

I works great.

http://www.highlandwoodworking.com/quik-crank-bandsaw-tensioner.aspx

A-HA!! That's where I got mine - completely forgot. I had every intention of getting the carter quick-release, but I got their electronic tension gauge, and those 2 occupy the same physical space - mutually exclusive. Now that I have the crank + ETG, I honestly wouldn't install the q-r even if I could - the crank is fast, easily "fine-tunable" and the ETG gives me dead-on repeatability - plus shows tension change as blade heats up and buries into the wood - can adjust on-the-fly if I want to.

[John Nesmith]

I put this crank on my 14" Jet.

I think is less obtrusive than the levers.

I works great.

http://www.highlandwoodworking.com/quik-crank-bandsaw-tensioner.aspx

Is there any difference between that unit, and this one (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0048J53TW/ref=oss_product)? (Other than price)

[Rob Price]

I went with the Big Horn crank at Amazon. I figure I'll risk the $15 if it saves a little on the Carter. I think I would like the hand wheel over the same knob. I'm a little worried the Jet "quick release" may interfere with installation. Instead of the screw registering off the cast iron arm of the saw, it's held by a bar across the top of the bearing housing with a solid thick washer attached to the screw. I'm hoping the threads on the new screw are the same and all the parts will fit. The Carter has different threads and I'm afraid it won't work anyway. I'll let you guys know.

[glenn bradley]

I'm curious what Jet says about their quick release, not releasing(?).

[Rob Price]

I agree, the quick release really doesn't release much, I may throw it out all together. Although maybe it saves a few cranks of the knob. I'm guessing on other bandsaws the screw just pushes against the cast iron underneath it?

[Randy Davidson]

I installed the Carter tensioner on my Grizz G0555 yesterday and can't believe how easy this is to use. I had been fighting my stock tensioner and really was ready to change it. Added the Carter stabilizer while I was at it. This saw will be used for small boxes only since I just purchased a Grizzly G0513X2.
.

[jared herbert]

I made my own quick tensioning lever after deciding that the purchased ones were too expensive. It is crude but works. DThere are a couple of ways to make the lever. I dont remember where I saw the pictures/plans but it was found on one of the forums, try googling it. A little scrap wood and time was as good as the $100 plus cost for a store bought one. Jared

[Rob Price]

Well, the short version, is the Amazon $15 works, but I guess the tension scale changes when you remove/bypass the Not-so-quick-release arm from Jet. First I removed the stock screw and figured out the new one wouldn't work with the quick release (which really doesn't release anyways) so I bypassed it. Then, the included nut was too small, it just turns freely in the housing. Luckily, the Jet nut works- I tried it freehand, screws on/off easily without any binding or sticking. Loaded it up, tried to crank it up to the 1/2 mark on the scale (I know, that's a 'hole 'nother thread on scales- but for test purposes let's just use the scale). Turns out, I can't get to 1/2 now. The spring is completely coiled up between the 3/8 mark and the 1/2 mark- and what happens when you try a little more? The nut jumps a thread. I released it, not liking the end result and then I decided I would try to attach the new handle to my old screw. At that point the Jet nut completely destroyed the Jet screw. I don't know why, but it did. That screw is now shot, but the new screw still works with the old nut, and I just tension it by feel anyways. Not sure why the scale is different, but I guess something changes when you go from registering the screw off the top of the wheel bearing and registering off the cast iron arm (that is where it's supposed to go- right?). As far as I can tell the spring is seated correctly.

I think if I hadn't over tensioned it the first time all would be well with the old screw, but I must have altered the nut just enough to tear up the old screw. At the end of the day I have a working quick crank for $15. It's surprising how easy it is to change blades now. I'm guessing the Carter would have fit right out of the box without any tweaks. I used the saw a bit today with the new crank and nothing fell apart, so we're good to go for now. No need for a tensioning arm when the crank is this easy.