1st coring effort

[Fred Perreault]

Okay, okay... so we've all done some nerve wracking things in our day, but as the years go by they seem to be fewer and farther between.

The LOML said that my new coring tool for Christmas may have fallen out of Santa's sled and I could go shopping for one if she didn't have to go. Sooooo, I strapped on my favorite house slippers and trucked over to my computer and soon enough had a Kel McNaughton Standard Coring System on the way. $284.00, no shipping and a $35 gift card to boot.

Anyway, I used it for the first time today. I had a 12"x4.5" red cedar rough-out that I was not particularly fond of. I have viewed the Mike Mahony video twice, so I was optimistic, but really, really ascared. I was going to take 2 cores out, but was happy to get one, and call it a morning.

The tip of the standard knives take a full 1/2" (metric, I imagine), and with the need to clear shavings etc., it removes a lot of timber. And, it can fracture a few nerves the first time. I changed direction half way in, so that cost me the chance for another core, and I was practicing for the first time so I chose a softer wood, which may not have been a good selection. I would suggest that with more time and more practice, a more precise effort will provide more and quicker rough-outs, less shavings, and more stable nerves.

I bubble with enthusiastic optimism.......... :) :)

[philip labre]

Congratulations!! You made it farther than I did. Tried mine the other day, broke the recess twice and hung it back on the wall. I've just about built up the nerve to try it again.

[Bernie Weishapl]

Congrats. Looks like you are on the way Fred. Hope it works out for you.

[bob svoboda]

Congratulations!! You made it farther than I did. Tried mine the other day, broke the recess twice and hung it back on the wall. I've just about built up the nerve to try it again.
Mike Mahoney uses a tenon that is 45% (or more) the total diameter of the blank. I'm wondering if a recess would be strong enough to withstand the torque created by coring?

[Reed Gray]

Just looking, it seems that it was good that you changed your course. I hate making lamp shades/funnels.

When using the spear point, if you look at Mike's video, you will notice that he moves the cutter from side to side as he cuts (called fish tailing). This opens up the cut and makes it easier for the chips to eject. The spear point shavings are bigger than the kerf, so you have to clear often, and/or open up the kerf wider. This is more important on bigger cores.

A recess works fine, when properly made. Same with a tenon. If you use a tenon, line it up in your chuck so the jaws do not contact with 2 on end grain, and 2 on side grain. Rotate about 45 degrees, so jaws contact all on side grain. End grain does not compress much, where side grain will compress a lot (more so in softer woods than in harder woods).

Size matters when using a recess or tenon. Generally, the foot of the bowl is in the 1/4 to 1/3 of the diameter of the bowl. So for a 12 inch diameter bowl, you want a foot/tenon to be in the 3 to 4 inch range. With a recess, you want it to fit into that size with plenty of shoulder room. 2 inch wide jaws will be a bit minimal with a 3 inch foot. My big Vicmark has jaws that are 2 5/8 inches, and I usually end up with 3 1/2 inch or slightly larger foot, though I never measure. You want about 3/16 inch depth. With my 2 5/8 inch jaws, my recess is about 2 3/4 max wide. I have dove tailed jaws, which do hold better than straight jaws. The keyed chucks work better here than the tommy bar type. Better gear ratio. Do not over tighten! You probably know that you can tighten to the point that you can blow out the shoulders, especially if the shoulder is rather narrow. You can tighten to the point where the shoulder is under so much stress that even a tiny catch can cause it to fail at the point of most stress. Do line up the chuck jaws like on tenons, not on end grain and side grain, 45 degree rotation from that point.

I got totally mad with my McNaughton the first few tries I made with it, and it ended up collecting dust for a year or so, till I saw a demo. Every one who has used it has sworn at it, and every one who has learned to use it swears by it, and still probably swears at it once and a while, even though by then, it is pilot error.

robo hippy

[John Keeton]

Congrats, Fred, on your new toy!! I haven't had much desire for a coring system until I see one that will core out HFs!!!!!:D:rolleyes:

[Fred Perreault]

Johnny...... I imagine that a hollow form coring system would have to be of an articulating nature. And quite a bear to operate. A snake shaped beaver would probably "cut it".... :)
I was satisfied with my first try. I have been frustrated before with tools or new machinery, but that never kept me from going back at it. In fact, that was proabably why I went back.
I have the 130mm jaws for my SuperNova, so I think that I can grab enough meat for the rig to be safe.

[Jim Burr]

Haven't done coring yet, but I did see a Bill Grumbine video on using one type or the other...maybe worth a look?

[Christopher K. Hartley]

Thanks for sharing this. This coring thing is something I have not yet wandered into but after doing my big bowls wish I had. It is in the future but a ways off. Congrats on the courage to take the plunge.:)

[Cathy Schaewe]

I have the oneway system - yes, I would like a little more variation on the shape, but I think with some practice I can maybe finagle that a little. I just didn't want to have to try to learn something else new, too. But the whole coring thing is great. It's very satisfying to get another piece or two (or three), instead of shavings. Well worth it, IMO.
(Except when, like last night, as I'm coring a 14" piece of mesquite, the core split on a bark inclusion and half of it came out at me. Then, when I tried to use my gouge to cut the center out, so I was left with a usable piece, the tenon broke because it was so unbalanced. I had to chisel the rest of the core out. That's the only time I've had any problems, though. Grrr.)

[Fred Perreault]

necessity.... the mother of invention, or a time for improvisation. I got my Stihl chainsaw caught in a very big red oak that was already down on my property last year (only one chainsaw). It was not coming out, so I took the power head off of the bar for more room, and used a large chisel to make enough wiggle room to get the bar and chain out. The oak blanks are real big, and green, so that is my next core victim. I am working toward coring some great looking, large black locust crotch wood I have

[Harry Robinette]

Fred
I got my McNaughton around 4 or 5 months ago,I went through Bill G's dvd,Mike M's and Robo Hippy's (Reed Gray ) and I'm using a Nova S2 or Nova Titan with 130 mm
jaws.I've had problems with the depth of the cores and Reed's dvd helped me with that.Also just to make sure I made a laser guide for mine.The thing not to do is DO NOT Fight The Tool if your getting the felling you need to hold on like heck STOP somethings wrong.It took me a while to do this but it helps.Hope this helps.
Harry
PS.The LOML got me the small set which I really like and thats what I've been using lately .

[Fred Perreault]

Harry, thanks for the tips. I have the 130mm for my SN2 as well. Much bigger bite. I am a firm believer that next to safety for keeping your fingers on your hands and skin on your knuckles, that "feel" is a close second. I have used hand and power tools (as most of us, I imagine) for decades. For me feel is a combination of sight, sound and sensation. With feel, we can prevent snapping off a bolt, getting a catch on the lathe or with the chainsaw, carry a grade 200 feet with a bulldozer, or find a 1" underground conduit with an excavator.
I can't say that I have never forced a tool, but...... I usually just get a bigger tool :) :)

Given the versatility of the revised McNaughton gate, I am getting the smaller knives as well.

[Reed Gray]

The standard set of blades will handle about 95% of the cores you will do. The mini blades I use for 'special' wood. The micro blades are designed for the mini lathes.

robo hippy

[Steve Vaughan]

Fred, I've got that same set up and have used it twice...both times were learning for me, at least did get a core or two out of it. Keep at it, and you'll be fine.

[Baxter Smith]

Looks like it definitely takes some skill to operate! Congrats on the first of many!

[Jake Helmboldt]

I got totally mad with my McNaughton the first few tries I made with it, and it ended up collecting dust for a year or so, till I saw a demo. Every one who has used it has sworn at it, and every one who has learned to use it swears by it, and still probably swears at it once and a while, even though by then, it is pilot error.

robo hippy

Reed, you made me feel much better. I knew I wasn't going to magically have instant success with the McNaughty, but it still was a real bummer to make a nice big funnel on my first blank.

[Reed Gray]

There are 2 ways to keep from making funnels. One is lots of practice. The other is a laser pointer. Over several years of using this tool, I developed the habit of aiming shallow. I'd rather get one less core than a lamp shade. When McNaughton came out with their laser, I got one. It did make a big difference. It let me know when my aim was off. Randy, of Monster tools makes his laser adaptable for the McNaughton, and I heard of some one who drilled and tapped the handle to screw one onto the handle.

robo hippy