Old PM66 Teardown progress

[Charlie Woods]

Well we finally have the trunion removed from the case, and the parts set aside which we have started cleaning. I got the the arbor locking nut removed by using my dremel tool( I have one as well) to cut the nut off. I cut about 3/4 of the way through, then I tapped on a cold chisel lightly in the cut to get the rest of the nut to split. Worked without any problems and all of the threads are fine, which was my biggest concern.( this was done last week) Nick proceded with the rest of the teardown today while I took the arbor to get new bearings. I am having them remove/replace the bearings which is one less step for me. I am also going to go ahead and take the motor to an armeture shop and have them test it just to be sure. To clean the parts I had Nick use heavy duty oven cleaner. It worked like a charm. Only had to leave it on 15-20 mins, and all of the old grease/pitch, sap and crude came off with the wire brush with minnimal effort. Both of the worm gears had a couple of spots where lubrication wore of and it rubbed metal to metal. I think it should be fine once new lubrication is applied. The rest of the parts are in good shape, so we will finish cleaning the rest of the parts this next week. I am trying to decide if I should strip the outside paint off and repaint it with the origional color. Is the PM color green still available? Or should I not worry about the exterior paint. ( Nick wanted to paint it the School colors, but a royal blue TS does not appeal to me.) Any suggestions you have would be greatly appreciated. The pictures below show the parts table and the empty cabinet. ( I am cropping the pictures so less of the mess in the shop is not visible).

Thanks for looking.

[Ted Shrader]

Charlie -

Looks like you guys are making good progress.

Thought of a point. . . . My PM66 blade elevation mechanism got really stiff. After numerous cleaning/relubes of the elevation worm gear and shaft, I finally shot some lubricant in the area of the pivot shaft (where the trunnion pivots to move the blade up/down). I think, in my case, it was dry coming from the factory. Since you have access to that area now, recommend you verify proper lubrication of all parts moving relative to each other. Like you weren't going to do that! :) ;) :)

Keep the progress reports coming.

Ted

[Tim Morton]

Looks like a fun project, and you seem to have it well in hand. I am cleaning up a 15 year old PM 60 jointer and when it comes to paint color PM is really no help, so I settled (for now) on an off the shelf hammered gold which is close to the old gold color...I may change my mind and go back in time to the older green color, but I need to get off the pain and onto cleaning the cast iron now. But I do have this link for you to look at for a color match.

http://www.owwm.com/FAQ/PaintColors.asp

[John Miliunas]

Great progress, Charlie! Looks like it will be as good as new in no time! As to the color, I'd be real tempted to sympathise with Nick on that one. As long as it's for school use in the first place and you guys are rebuilding from the ground up, why not make it just that little bit more special for the kids? Heck, it's only paint and if you really, REALLY hate it down the road, you can always pull the cranks off, a bit of masking tape and reshoot it a different color then. But then again, blue is MY favorite color anyway, so it'd be easy for me!:D :cool:

[Chuck Fischer]

Do you guys have an automotive painting program at your school? Probably not, but you could always go down to a body shop and have them mix up a couple spray cans for the original green... that would be cool. I think most body shops will mix paint and put them in spray cans for you. I know I had it done when I was touching up the engine bay of my car.

Otherwise, it is for the school, so the school colors would be an ok choice... but what are the colors of the other tools in the shop... I see a green dust collector over threre, seems like green might be the shop color... I think Rust-Oleum actually makes a green hammer finish that wouldn't match the dust collector exactly, but would look pretty ok. I redid a shopsmith and used their silver hammer finish and it turned out great... and also very durable. Check it out, they have a bunch of colors... even royal blue I think.

Chuck

[Rob Russell]

I'm surprised the WMH group (owner of Powermatic) wouldn't sell the green paint as a part. Hae you given them a call? If not, the autobody shop is the way I'd go. Take a part down and have them color match it.

[Boyd Gathwright]

Hi Charlie,

.... Thought I would tidy up that last pic of yours. I almost went crosseyed :D.

.... Good Luck

Boyd
.
E]

[Charlie Woods]

I find myself getting into this project more and more:rolleyes: . Maybe this is how the antique/custom car builders feel when they work on a project. I just need to be able to put this much effort into my own shop at home:mad: . Most of my efforts have been in getting this place( school Shop) workable. I have been teaching at this school for 9 years and spent alot of time writing proposals and justification letters for equipment and space, often buying equipment out of my own pocket to get the scene shop to where it is now . When I started I had a circular saw, 2 drills, some screwdrivers, and other hand tools, and a space that was actually a converted art room 18 x 24 to teach classes and build scenery in. Most of the time was spent moving around the building to any large areas where I could build my larger scenic units and safely teach the kids. So you can probably say I have alot more time invested in this shop than my home shop. It works out okay, because when I need to use a tool I don't have at home at least I have access to equipment here to work on.

Ted: Good Idea on the blade arm pivot. It moved pretty easily anyway, but so I was not going to bother, but thanks for the reminder, best to check and double check while it is apart. What is the best lube for these parts?( so as not to use grease again) Have you used a chemical called PG 2000? If so how well does it work, and how long will it lubricate these parts before you have to reapply? I have a friend who used to work in the Aero spce industry, as an engineer, but have been unable to contact him about his suggestions.

Tim: Thanks for the link.:D I will look up Porter Paints here in Houston and see if I can get it from them.

John: Your probably right and I will look at that as an option, if I can;t find a match, or close match.

Chuck: Not being a real automotive person I was not aware that paint and body shops could mix up spray cans like that. Thats pretty cool.:) Have you ever had this done? If so what was the cost and how close was the match?

Rob: No I havn't contacted WMH to inquire about the paint, based on information on other forums, others have not had any success, but if I don't call I will not know one way or the other.( I am not a phone/E-mail person. I would rather talk to someone face to face than over the phone.)

Boyd: Thanks for the Pic fix. I hope I didn't give you or anybody a crick in the neck. I am still getting acclimated to digital cameras. They work great and are convienant( will use the schools to take pics of all tools in the shop for records and insurance purposes), but I still have a polaroid, and I shoot pictures of all of my and my students set/light designs with a 35mm camera and kodachrome 64 slide film. Still have not found anything better that can get the subtleties and depth of lighting color under Tungsten Halogen lamps.


I appreciate all of your comments, and help in this process. Will continue to update as much as possible. And if I remember try to throw in some shots of the shop here since it is where I have put in most of the work.

[Tim Morton]

Rob: No I havn't contacted WMH to inquire about the paint, based on information on other forums, others have not had any success, but if I don't call I will not know one way or the other.( I am not a phone/E-mail person. I would rather talk to someone face to face than over the phone.)

I have talked to WMH and they had nothing they could help me with with regards to the gold color I need,I didn't ask about green, but here is a phone number and name of the Powermatic guru over there.

Cut&paste from my email:

i spoke to him and he is the guy to talk to over there...very nice older guy who seems to know his stuff.

I am strongly recommending you speak to Bobby Gannon in our Technical Services dept. at 800-274-6846. He is our Powermatic expert

[Ted Shrader]

Charlie -

I shot Boeshield T9 in the pivot area (without disassembly). It does not attract dust and should last quite a while considering the limited amount of relative movement. You can always reapply if needed.

Regards,
Ted

[Chuck Fischer]

Charlie,

Honestly I can't remember the cost, but I do know automotive paint can sometimes be expensive. You could always call down to a local shop and ask, it couldn't hurt.

Chuck