Hormingo Negro Pencil

[Trevor Walsh]

Success at last, after several different jam chucking attempts and mandrel setups I went with a regular glue chuck and turned a slightly longer blank. Uses a .9mm Pentel pencil as a "kit", finished with BLO/CA. I'm very happy with the finish, I did a few spindle test runs getting the technique down and love how smooth and glassy the pencil feels.

[David Stratton]

Looks good to me. I really like the idea of using off the shelf pens and pencils to build a custom writing instrument. Wish there were more instructions out there.

[David Warkentin]

Looks good. You may have to tell us how you made your tapered drill bit. If you did. I know you could buy them from someone on IAP, right? David

[Trevor Walsh]

I agree David S, and I'm my opinion the Pentil "kit" even the Office Depot generic brand is far superior to the commercial purpose kits, as long as you're okay with chrome, though maybe you'd brass plate the parts if you were seriously into it (Which I may do). The other thing is price, even buying the premo Pentel pens in two packs or twelve packs you pay about $4 something a "kit", the OD generics were $6 a two pack (and probably made in the same factory without the Pentel markings or price). So why am I paying $6 or more per kit for a mediocre slimline? (gold thingy aside). If you google "Turn Pentel Pencil" you'll find the same articles, I used Don Ward's.

David W.- I didn't make a tapered bit, I didn't have a bit that long to grind into a tapered bit, nor did I want to wait to do that. There was a guy on the International Association of Penturners (IAP) who make them to order, I found a website that offers mandrels that mount in a regular 1/4"-28 arbor (threaded penturning mandrel, Jeff) or drill chuck etc he has several types, he also sells bushings and taper drills.

The mandrel setup I used was time consuming, because I glued the blank to the jamb chuck I have to face the mandrel again to use it. I ordered a mandrel/drill combo from the guy I mentioned and we'll see if that's better.

As for the drill itself I've used two different methods in my attempts to get to this stage. The first step is to bore a hole with a long 1/4" bit I used a spade started with a twist. (I'd prefer a long length twist, cleans deep chips way better). Now you chase the "butt end" of the pen blank with a 9/32" drill to a depth depending on how you're chucking the blank for turning. The spade bit comes in handy because the point will spot a hole through the portion that you leave undrilled for the Pentel mechanism to clamp around. What you're after is a hole that the body of the mechanism slides into, with clearance space for the mechanism to click, and an aperture for the tip to be exposed. I've attached a drawing that I hope clears this up.

If you're with me so far you have a blank, about 5 inches long, drilled 1/4" to a depth of about 4.8" with a 9/32" hole chased about 1.4" deep in the back. You have three options for finishing the drilling, either use a step drill to get the 5/32" hole for the tip portion; make what I'll call a "transfer drill" (using a piece of 1/4" diameter mild steel drill a 5/32" hole concentric with the end and solder/epoxy a piece of the 5/32" drill into it) The steel rod acts as a pilot for the drill in the pencil blank body, and centers the 5/32" tip hole in that body hole. Or finally, the method I prefer, mount the Jamb chuck you made for the butt end of the blank in the headstock, glue your extra long blank to the jamb chuck, using the minute hole left from the tip of your spade bit to center with a dead center in the tailstock. (use a spade bit with an acute point modern 1/4" ones have a 60 degree or so point, that won't work with this method as there won't be a shoulder for the mechanism to seat against well). Once that's set, switch the dead center for a drill chuck and 5/32" drill and bore that last 3/16" or so out. Mount your other mandrel and turn.

It's a trick bitch the first few times you do it. And like I said, the step bit might be the way to go, I'll post again when I figure that out, then maybe write another Article about Pentels. And I thought those would be quick answers.

[Ron Stadler]

Hey, looks good to me.

I recently made some shop pencils with the real heavy lead for christmas presents. The ones I gave a way were one piece kits, but I found that the lead in some were not wanting to come out on there own, well I mean you had to get them started manually through the tip then they worked fine,, but in doing so on the first one I was pulling out on the little flanges that grip the lead and one broke off, I only pulled out about 1/8" no more than that and snap, well I was a little disappointed with this kit after that and won't be buying any more of those.:( I myself had ordered me a different kit, which is two pieces same lead size and am much happier with it, just seems to be made much better.